JMortensen Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 I ran several 11. and 10. second mustangs in the past with 31 spline axeled 8.8's without breaking them. Two of my best freinds have run mustangs in the very low 9's with fully built 8.8's for years with out problems. The 28 spline 8.8 rear can break!; with no more than a change to sticky tires. I'm guessing you're talking about the solid axle. I think the question was about the 8.8 IRS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazycat5 Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Yup mine were solid axles,but the center sections are practically identical. I'm sorry for not making myself clear on that. Some 8.8 irs rears are also made of aluminum something else to consider. All that said, I would still keep the r200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob1 Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 (edited) Yup mine were solid axles,but the center sections are practically identical. I'm sorry for not making myself clear on that. Some 8.8 irs rears are also made of aluminum something else to consider. All that said, I would still keep the r200. The biggest reason I wanted to go to something else(besides mine came with an r180) is the outer half shaft u-joint and it's tendency to snap. I'd probably also gain some flexibility in tire/wheel options, and could reset the rear end geometry while I was in there. That rear end squat has a tendency to clue in the Carerra4 turbo your sneaking up on... Is there a cheap fix for the half shaft joint Edited January 14, 2010 by BRAAP Repaired the broken "quote" script. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazycat5 Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Use 280zxt or 300zxt shafts. As far as the squat, can't you set up the spring/shock combo to deal with that issue. For drag racing I plan on doubling the bump stop on the rear shocks to cut some of that squating but I cant say if it will work yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7MGFORCE Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 curious do you think the whole C4 IRS swap will hold? http://www.scottiegnz.com/corvette_irs_swap.html anyways on the side note i think your question has been kinda solve from the supraforums. 30 psi on a launch? That may be your issue right there. Now I don't have experience with your setup, I run a complete different setup... but I would try backing down the boost off the launch and maybe increase the launch rpm if you are bogging. Are you running a manual or auto? I also think that maybe you should lower the pressure on launch 30 psi is alot to launch from. as already suggested as well lower your boost off the line and simply add more after launch. seeing that your not getting faster and just braking parts i think its time to rethink your launching plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Dare I say it that if you do end up building this car with a full tube-frame chassis, a highly built 2JZ, superwide body-kit (280YZ from what I gather of your project?) an expensive dog box, maybe the idea of iterating over a couple of diffs before you find one that works for you, won't seem like such a big deal. Just saying, build the car first, then worry about breaking things? Not that this isn't a useful theoretical discussion. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 If you've looked at my blog I'm actually headed in this direction I'm putting together a stock block 2JZ w/ a S366 borg warner turbo. Going to try for 750whp on E85. So first round: Stock Block 2JZ w/ 750whp Gforce Dog Box Cage R200 with OBX diff 280z struts with coilovers Second round I may do double wishbone suspension with C5 uprights front and rear. Built motor. R230. Borg Warner S480 Turbo. Dog Box. ~1200whp. /J Dare I say it that if you do end up building this car with a full tube-frame chassis, a highly built 2JZ, superwide body-kit (280YZ from what I gather of your project?) an expensive dog box, maybe the idea of iterating over a couple of diffs before you find one that works for you, won't seem like such a big deal. Just saying, build the car first, then worry about breaking things? Not that this isn't a useful theoretical discussion. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 FYI, stay away from newer stock GM IRS units. (GTO, CTSV, G8..etc) I took torque management and traction control off my GTO and have a record of two diffs being munched and one locking up on the freeway on street tires and a stock motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob1 Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 I'm going to look at converting my triple plate clutch into a dual disc unit with more slip-able discs. Whatcha plannin on doin with that triple plate clutch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 Whatcha plannin on doin with that triple plate clutch... I'm just pulling the sintered discs out and one of the intermediate pressure plates. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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