240z with RB26DETT, multilink, EPS, etc

[KAZU]

Last week I put RB26 in my 240z.

 

Mount is currently Castleman's. It locate too low and far back. Z31 oil pan sits on the U-bolt of the rack.

 

I found that Z31 mount was way to go for me. Estimated movement with Z31 mount is roughly 1" up and 1" forward.

[KAZU]

Diff (R200LSD), halfshafts, hub carreer, arms and parking brake system are from R33 GT-R. Brake disk is from JDM Skyline (Infinity in the US) V36 type S sedan. caliper is from R32. shock is Bilstein.

 

Underbody must be deformed (cut and weld)

 

I simply ordered the stock subframe rear hanger for Skyline R34.

 

trimmed and welded.

 

For front mounting, I gutted and welded the R32 hanger.

 

I reinforced around the mounting point when floor and sidesil replacement was done.

 

[KAZU]

The car has been repaired improperly and twisted a bit. Floor rust was not the problem. I cut floor and sidesil out, welded a set of thinwall rectangular tube (1" x 3") at the framerail and sidesil inner.

 

Outer sidesil skin is the only one remained stock parts. Additional DOM tube is located above the rectangular bar for reinforcement.

[KAZU]

For a 50/50% street/track car, I chose an aluminium tank for street rod, instead of fuel cell. Tank, remote fuel filler is from Summit racing.

 

Carter low pressure pump was too laud to be placed above the floor. Relocated there.

 

For high-presseure pump, I picked a Bosch 044.

Edited January 16, 2010 by KAZU
spelling

[KAZU]

Dash is from 1st-gen Mercedes C-class. EPS steering column, wiper motor and HVAC system are from Suzuki. Column combination SWs are from Toyota RAV4. Brake pedal is modified Tilton. Clutch pedal is Howe. Red knob next to the column is brake bias adjuster. Trans is S14 Silvia. 71C trans is known to be weak for RB26 but I can live with it for a while, no drag start or drifting. Dog gear with beafy mainshaft may be the next. Red lever behind the shift is proportioning valve. All hand brake mechanism from R33. All brake hardline is redone by 37 dgree single flare.

 

Seats for street driving are from 996 GT3 (optional reclining leather).

 

Master cylinders fit tightly between the frama rails.

 

Aim MXL dash logger. A boost gauge may be added behind the clear acrylic panel (hardly seen in the pic).

[KAZU]

Wheel trial fit. Stock size ZG flare does not cover the 18"-10" +38 for track use.

 

Mustang Bullitt, 17"-8" +30 for street with stock size ZG flare.

 

Wide thin ply ZG flare from Marugen, Japan.

 

Traced the outline and cut line.

 

Stock fender was cut. Pieces of sheet metal were trimmed and welded to fill the gap between inner and outer.

 

Result. Wide flare with 17"-8"

[KAZU]

Castleman engine mount and stock rubber insulator were replaced with PZ31 mount and rubber. The holes at the engine crossmember do not match well and entire engine sits driver's side. Also, engine is located higher than I thought. So I modified the left side mount and rechecked the placement. Engine still aparently sits on the left side.

 

Next weekend I'll measure chassis dimension at first and find the right way to solve the problem.

[KAZU]

Engine shifted to the driver's side by 1" with Z31 engine mounts. So I ended up cutting castleman's RB30 mount. Left mount was cut to clear the front turbine oil outlet tube. Both sides of 240z mount rubber were replaced by RB rubber.

 

Engine bay got painted. I chose plain gray for my 240z. I really hate painting. Exterior will be covered by 3M film.

 

 

Brake rotor is 13-1.25" heavy duty directional vane from Coleman. Rotor hat is Wilwood for De Tomaso Pantera and caliper is from 1st gen Viper. Hub from Z31 turbo. Strut upper mounts are modified to gain caster angle. Brake tube and clutch hose is routed behind the front member.

 

[KAZU]

Intercooler is from BNR34. Lower brackets were welded at the tow holes and upper brackets were made to be bolted with bumper by its brackets.

Left side. Some welding was needed.

I don't have any tube beader but I thought a bead roller for flat sheet metal may be used if the tube is large enough. After some practice, it worked.

Tubes are assorted mandrel bent and 3 bent cast pieces. This is the only one had to be welded.

Left side.

Right side.

Single air filter should be located around there.

Edited April 20, 2010 by KAZU

[KAZU]

Remote oil filter is FRAM HP6. I didn't think I can put this huge into S30 engine compartment.

Here I found some space.

Filter replacement job can be done without mess.

My stock of -12 hose limits the oil cooler location.

I hate Earl's. Assembly of -12 hose ends needs arm wrestler.

My favorite Russell nylon braided hose

[KAZU]

There is no room for box air filter container. I fabricate a aluminium duct.

Time consuming job has done.

[KAZU]

I got a set of 3" full dual exhaust pipes and only one pipe may be enough for my RB26. Turbine outlet was cut and welded. Hose band and welding rod method worked well to be fixed the pieces for welding.

Floor toe board was also cut and welded.

 

My car does not accept any airdam for 240z because the intercooler is located below the bumper. Front air dam I've gotten is for S14 sylvia. Upper bumper part was cut out and narrowed at the center.

Edited April 20, 2010 by KAZU

[mark]

Beautiful!

[KAZU]

Rattle can paint job.

 

Corner weight measurement with driver (me):

 

Today

Left 52.42% Cross 49.87%

Rear 49.16 1197 kg (2642 lbs)

 

Dec.29, 2009, with L28 ITB

Left 52.17% Cross 50.59%

Rear 50.72 1138.5kg (2512 lbs)

[KAZU]

I couldn't find enough space for twin exhaust. Pipe diameter after merge is less than 3". A A/F sensor (Innovate LC-1) is located vertically.

I've been trying to start the engine for a while and finally figured out the exhaust cam (it actually is RB26 intake cam) dialed completely wrong. I remove the cam almost 180 degree at the cam sprocket.

ECU is DTA P8Pro, sequential injection with direct coil firing, and switched intake cam timing.

[KAZU]

Exhaust cam dialed correctly and the engine ran. Soon after that, unusual rattle noise came from the cam sprockets. Intake sprocket is from ECR33 RB25NVCS and the cam is from ER34 RB25NEO. One of the four fixing bolts was dropped off and the others were loose. Fixed.

I'm realized that Innovate LC-1 didn't make any voltage. I dig an old DIY-WB board and replaced with LC-1. It worked just fine.

Engine idles a little bit high and the A/F shows rich.

Unreliable genuine Nissan ignition transistor was gutted. DTA-fast ECU has internal ignition amplifiers.

Finalizing the body work. The S14 silvia air dam was trimmed to fit the stock 240z bumper.

Front overhung is short in 240z than S14 silvia. Minor work should be needed at the wheel arch.

Edited July 13, 2010 by KAZU

[Ivan280zt]

Man I have no idea how I missed this thread great work! I really like the direction that you are going in and cant wait for next update.

[zsteelman]

Loving the idea of this front bumper, curious to see how you get it to flow into those ZG flares, especially with the rivit holes, they really change the bodyline of the flairs. Great fab work so far.

[KAZU]

Loving the idea of this front bumper, curious to see how you get it to flow into those ZG flares, especially with the rivit holes, they really change the bodyline of the flairs. Great fab work so far.

 

Nothing special. I just cut the front end of the flares.

Car is on jackstands. The tire is at fully extended position.

 

AC plumbing. It's no fun.

 

Control panel wiring has done. I didn't do any ducting yet but cool air comes from the HVAC box. AC system components are from several models of Suzuki.

Edited August 8, 2010 by KAZU

[Mok runner- I run a Mok]

Great work. Very inventive. I wonder where you get all these different parts from cars? Do you have a wrecking yard?