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Welded diff and 315 tires?


7MGFORCE

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I need a stronger diff for my v8 560wtrq so I'm thinking of welding my r200 for the posi traction and the strengtt.

 

I'm concerned about taking corners as it's mostly street driven with ocational backroad drag.

 

But with 315 back tires do you think I'll have thesame problem with re back end always breaking loose?

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I know a man names mike here in dallas that runs 9's at the 1/4 track and hellaciously fast on the street. He rolls around on 15x8 konig rewinds with Micky ET's (think 245ish) and DEAD HOOKS...ofcourse he cant drive in the rain but i would say best bet is having 2sets of wheels/tires like most track guys if youre worried about driving in weather or tire wear.

 

He also has a CLSD out of a 300zx with extra clutches added in....i wouldnt reccommend a welded dif when you can buy a clsd for a hundred or 2 hundred bucks (same price as ONE 315 tire).

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The thing is the diff itself is cheap but the parts cost to install it is expensive.

 

I'm not worked about tire wear I just want to know if it would have issues on turns even with 315 wide tires.

 

And how much are those rated for I thought it was less than 500 ft torque?

 

I figured r200 that are welded would be a lot stronger assuming the welds holds up.

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do some learning....i can explain it till im blue but it looks like you are wanting someone "to prove you wrong" and i am not here to argue, tires dont come with a rating i can light up a set of 315's with my mild L28 just like i can a 215's its call rpms and a clutch. (theres my mini arguement)

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do some learning....i can explain it till im blue but it looks like you are wanting someone "to prove you wrong" and i am not here to argue, tires dont come with a rating i can light up a set of 315's with my mild L28 just like i can a 215's its call rpms and a clutch. (theres my mini arguement)

 

Actually I was just asking if loosing traction could be minimize with 315 vs 225 tire. That's all. LSD is the way to go that I know but cost is another thing.

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I need a stronger diff for my v8 560wtrq so I'm thinking of welding my r200 for the posi traction and the strengtt.

 

I'm concerned about taking corners as it's mostly street driven with ocational backroad drag.

 

Assuming the welds hold, the only strength increase will be the spider gears. The R&P and stub axles will not be helped, and quite likely be subjected to more stress depending on how you're driving.

 

Actually I was just asking if loosing traction could be minimize with 315 vs 225 tire. That's all. LSD is the way to go that I know but cost is another thing.

 

315's all by themselves aren't going to fix your problem. In fact there isn't any one thing that will. If you want to try something cheap, remove the rear bar and droop limit the front. Again, it won't fix it, but you'll see an improvement. You can also play with droop limiting the rear, shock adjustments, alignments, etc, etc. I would be thinking about these types of things long before a welded diff.

Edited by RTz
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I don't think the widest tires you can put on there are gonna make a "true" posi traction any less prone to breaking loose. I think thats what your wondering. but as a thought when switching from 205's to 235's the 235's chatter "ALOT" more. And that shows on cornering to. Although the wider seem to be much more "predictable" in corners, they both slide... So

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Thanks guys. I thought that a 315 wide tires would solve that problem. Lesson learned.

 

I guess I will try the weld and see how it goes. if I don't like it I will just have to reach deep in my pocket to install r230.

 

Btw I already have 300zx cv installed with my longnose r200.

Thanks

 

 

Prime example of not taking notes... you have the cv's but youre missing the most important part (CLSD). The stock open r200 is crap if you are putting down any kind of serious power (if you really have 500+hp or 300+tq) all your car is doing is spinning. Like I PREVIOUSLY stated, get a CLUTCH type r200 (CLSD) and if it doesnt work ADD clutches. The clutches are cheap and with all the info and even write-ups with pictures, a Chimp could do it in a few hours (that takes out your "it cost more to install" excuse).

 

But that is exactly what doesnt make sense, you want a cheap solution... yet when a clsd ($200), if you have to add clutches ($50), and taking a few hours to put them in (FREE). So for 250 your problem is fixed, and there are guys alot faster than your car is running this setup with great success (I believe high 7 and low 8 second passes have been done with an r200) so you should have no problem.

 

But instead you say "guess i'll have to dig deep for the r230 swap" ...like I said before, there's no use. I've proven it otherwise as many on this site have and even suggested otherwise because of owning cars that had welded difs (DRIFT cars not street cars), theres even a guy who recently sent his car into a curb on here that did so because his dif was welded (that should say something to you).

 

But all in all its your decision we are just here to add opinion and Try to help you out, doesn't make much sense to ask a question, get an answer (backed up by facts), then throw it aside....but do what you do and good luck fixing your problem.

 

-Jeff

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I agree. You've spent lot of money doing the hybrid swap and are making a lot of power. Why cheap out when it comes to traction?

 

Spend some time searching for a used clutch pack LSD to install in your long nose R200. They come up for sale from time to time with prices from $500 to $800. You can also purchase new with a OS Giken Super Lock for around $1,500.

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The clutches are cheap and with all the info and even write-ups with pictures, a Chimp could do it in a few hours (that takes out your "it cost more to install" excuse).

 

But that is exactly what doesnt make sense, you want a cheap solution... yet when a clsd ($200), if you have to add clutches ($50), and taking a few hours to put them in (FREE). So for 250 your problem is fixed, and there are guys alot faster than your car is running this setup with great success (I believe high 7 and low 8 second passes have been done with an r200) so you should have no problem.

 

But instead you say "guess i'll have to dig deep for the r230 swap" ...like I said before, there's no use. I've proven it otherwise as many on this site have and even suggested otherwise because of owning cars that had welded difs (DRIFT cars not street cars), theres even a guy who recently sent his car into a curb on here that did so because his dif was welded (that should say something to you).

 

But all in all its your decision we are just here to add opinion and Try to help you out, doesn't make much sense to ask a question, get an answer (backed up by facts), then throw it aside....but do what you do and good luck fixing your problem.

 

-Jeff

I looked at that BUT

First question.

-Where do you get the clutches? I had considered that option but found out that the clutches was a group buy that was over. so where so i get a hold of those clutches?

 

^^ The main reason I didn't look into it further b/c from the sticky it holds up to about 400trq. Since the group buy was over for the clutches, adding clutches was not possible. But since you seem to know where I can get them post a link please thanks.

 

 

And again the reason I "throw it aside" is because I was not aware that there are clutches made now.

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I agree. You've spent lot of money doing the hybrid swap and are making a lot of power. Why cheap out when it comes to traction?

 

Spend some time searching for a used clutch pack LSD to install in your long nose R200. They come up for sale from time to time with prices from $500 to $800. You can also purchase new with a OS Giken Super Lock for around $1,500.

 

because the whole swap including the (rust free) shell purchased cost me 2800 :mrgreen:

 

Mustang 5.0 plus big giant turbo is great for cheap and powerful car. That and the skill to weld things up (hint why I was asking about welding-it would be free for me lol)

 

but will look into the clsd more. thanks

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I'm not sure how a post becomes a lesson in gramer, but in my case I hope you all grade on a curve. In regards to a welded diff, a LSD from a 87 turbo car is the best street set up on a budget (if you can find one). I have one on my car but in the past have used a welded diff. It's really your only option if you don't want to spend a boat load of money, but daily driving sucks. You are going to go threw tires like mad. What makes the daily drive is the binding of the axles when the inside tire spins more then the outside on curves. I run a 235-60-15 on my stock 82 turbo wheels and the car hooks like hell, but I am only making L28 torque. Good luck!

Edited by Alxxpress
Typo
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just my thought...

 

q45 r200 diff from pick n pull 65.00

redrill r200 mustache bar for q45 r200 diff

make a front mount for r230 or r200 q45, assuming you can weld or know someone.

get 4 junk yard axles from q45. 25 a piece?

send in your 4bolt axle flange and have modernmotorsports weld it up for 310.00 to accept q45 6 bolts.

order moser axles while your at it for an additional 340.00

say 40-50 in fright total.

 

all pretty much for under 850.00 possible!!! and you dont ever have to worry about it. assuming you can deal with 3.54 gears.

 

i was thinking about using my r200 longnose and turbo z31 cv's. r/t mount and add lsd later. but then again, how much hp and torque can it really hold on a 500-550 hp with manual trans blowing on full slicks? and easy up in power by up the boost.

 

adding a lsd to the weaker longnose is out of the picture and cant be beat when converting over to the q45 r200 swap(IMO) for almost the same amount of money for a good quality lsd for the longose r200. lsd's are not cheap! just giving you heads up on your question wanting a stronger diff for that kind of torque.

 

thoughts are welcome because i myself is interested in your guys opinions. however i would prefer using the longnose r200 since its cake walk to install if it can hold that kind of hp and torque reliably.

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Here are some options:

 

1. The group buy thread, maybe suggest another run.

2. Get specs from the group buy guy about making your own

3. Talk to the machine shop that made them and see if you can get a set (or even a few) and start your own group buy..up the price $5 and PROFIT (ie free clutches for yourself, and maybe some cash in your pocket)

4. Make a thread in the WANT TO BUY section.

 

One of those will work out.

Edited by Drax240z
Trying to provoke something...
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