Jump to content
HybridZ

steel braided lines and fittings


itsaprothing

Recommended Posts

not sure if this is the right section to post this in but i'm wanting to replace all the old lines on my project car to steel braided lines. is there a company anyone can refer me to where I can order fittings and lines custom sized or maybe just in different sizes to choose from so that I can order exactly what I need?

 

I know there are specific kits available for certain cars but the motor I am working with is the 1g-gte and looking for parts that are actually for this motor are like looking for a needle in a hay stack :rolleyesg so if anyone can refer me to a website to order from or a local spot that would be awesome.

 

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The black earls fittings are pretty nice from what I've seen. I have done my Z with russell fittings front to rear and short of one swivel fitting seeping causing a gas smell in my garage its been great. I've since just replaced the fitting and the gas smell is gone which makes me super happy (and the wife moreso!)..lol..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're going to build your own hose - do yourself a favor and buy the hose cutter from Summit Racing. It makes matters a WORLD easier. I plumbed my first car using a die grinder and cutoff wheel. What a royal pain. Punctured fingertips and all. The hose cutter lops the whole hose off in one fell swoop AND crushes it in a bit so it's easier to get the collar on around the hose. BEST $35 I've ever spent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is the lifespan of a nice steel braided fuel line?

 

Like just about everything else in life, "it depends".

 

The actual stainless steel braid is as close to "lifetime" as you'll get. But the steel braid is not liquid-tight. The inner hose which it is protecting is actually doing the work. As long as you use the proper hangers and avoid tight spots which will abrade the line, the sheath will last the life of the car.

 

The inner line is subject to the same wear conditions as any rubber-like product. How it will do depends on what it is made from (natural, synthetic, teflon) the environmental conditions around it (pollution, road salt, heat) and how you treat it (no tight bends, some vibration damping).

 

Some of the manufacturers recommend renewing it every two years, but I have had it last several times that with no problems.

 

BTW the recommendation on the Summit hose cutter is golden. Any other way of cutting that hose is a total PITA.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

. As long as you use the proper hangers and avoid tight spots which will abrade the line, the sheath will last the life of the car.

 

In my experience, the bigger concern here is avoiding tight spots where the stainless braid will abrade and destroy whatever it comes in contact with. I don't think I've ever seen it the other way around. :mrgreen:

 

FWIW, I've come to prefer the ProLite 350 (or similar) hoses. These typically have a nomex braid instead of stainless and are usually either black or blue in color. These hoses are WAY easier to work with than stainless (you can cut it to length with a razor blade - it won't puncture your fingers), use the exact same hose ends and have pressure capacities beyond anything you're likely to need, and they're lighter than stainless, too. If you do need higher pressure or temperature abilities, the standard stainless probably wouldn't have fit the bill either - for high temps you'll want the teflon lined stuff (which requires special hose ends) and maybe some FireBraid, and for things like power steering, there is specially made hose for that purpose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was wondering how that cutter worked thanks for the info! I did cut all mine with a grinder I did not have trouble with poked fingers I used good electrical tape and wrapped where I was gona cut slowly and the wire mesh would stay clean.. only problem I see is that the grinder can blow junk into you nice clean lines. I watched a couple you tube clips on installing these fittings and it helped.. way easier then I would of thought. Also I used the russel assembly lube wich works very well.

 

I have a bunch of extra fittings left over from my project summit -8 an fuel line im guessing like 18 to 20 feet, and some fittings.. in -6 and -8 an, a couple swivle 90's ect. if anyone is looking for somthing like this let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

In my experience, the bigger concern here is avoiding tight spots where the stainless braid will abrade and destroy whatever it comes in contact with. I don't think I've ever seen it the other way around.

 

As a former helicopter crewchief I will say that BOTH are possible. Any metal to metal contact, especially hydraulic or fuel lines that are either stainless or hardlines is a serious no-no. They will both destroy each other. Even rubber electrical wires will eat through aluminum over time in a high vibration area. Depending on location, steel braided line will destroy the metal it touches, and in case of it coming into contact with a "sharp" edge it will quickly be frayed and compromise its integrity. Make sure you buy those isolation mounts for all your hoses, and regularly check it to make sure the lines aren't rubbing on anything. Spots of contact can usually be seen pretty easily, as they will leave black marks (wear grease) where they touch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...