mark Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 I was at CMP Friday to try out the new set up. I started easy braking early and hard. As the day went on I gained confidence in the brakes and eventually ran a few hard laps with out any fad. I had a slight issue that John Tedder helped me identify as pad knock back but no fade. Toward the end of the day trying to chase down a porsche cup car (fat chance) the brakes finally gave up and I had a strange vibration. The rear pads were gone. Replaced the pads and went back out. I was stopped at pit out and asked if I had fixed the rear wheel. Back to the pits and found this. Put the car on the trailer and came home. Thanks John, Tom and Quinten. John, If you had stayed we could have used duct tape and zip ties to fix this but I'm not qualifed with those materials. Tom, I'm ordering some parts from Ross. This is what I found when the rear came apart. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/gallery/image/23527-stub/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 WOW!!! Good thing they saw that before you got out on track again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 I went to the pit out worker before I left and thanked him several times and asked that he pass along my thanks to the corner workers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Wow. I'm really glad that didn't turn into a on track failure. That would have been just right hitting the kink at about a buck thirty. Scary. Buying Clyde's breakfast the rest of the season? jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Mark, You defiantly had a "wobbler" on the left rear. That could have proved to be exciting within the next few laps but the scrap metal price is way up and it sure looks like Ross's stub axle set up is the way to go. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 I was at CMP Friday to try out the new set up. I started easy braking early and hard. As the day went on I gained confidence in the brakes and eventually ran a few hard laps with out any fad. I had a slight issue that John Tedder helped me identify as pad knock back but no fade. Don't know if you're on c-c.com, but I just saw this and thought of you talking about knockback at your last track day: http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=42896 Jist of it is that there a radially floating rotor that doesn't cause knockback. I'm taking this to mean that any floating rotor like yours does, which makes sense because the rotor can move laterally. I suppose you can always just do the racer thing and tap the brakes before the braking zone just to get the pistons back into position, but this looks like a permanent fix to that problem. Whether they're available to fit your particular setup is another question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 Thanks Jon, That does look like it would cure the knock back issue. It also looks expensive. I would bet with enough searching I could find a BMW hat and rotor that would work on this set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 I ordered these Monday and they arrived Thursday. Installed on Friday afternoon. Thanks Ross. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=62 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 I ordered these Monday and they arrived Thursday. Installed on Friday afternoon. Thanks Ross. Did you get the beefed up version? After seeing your breakage, I've been thinking of doing the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 I ordered these Monday and they arrived Thursday. Installed on Friday afternoon. Thanks Ross. Mark, I forgot to tell you that I spun some of my studs on these axles and then had to remove them and weld them on the back side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 Thanks for the heads up Tom. When I was putting the rotor hat back on the new stub axel I found the inner bore had been deformed by the broken stub axel. Dave is shipping me a new rotor hat next week. Hopefully that is the last of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 Did you get the beefed up version? After seeing your breakage, I've been thinking of doing the same. These are the stubs that use the 280z spline pattern. Ross says below 500 hp these are good. Since I don't drag race the car and I know what I did to break the old one, I think I'll be good. There is a very harsh gator at CMP that I hit with my left rear while hanging it out exiting a turn. I should have lifted when I hit the gator but did not. I know the hop from the gator on the left rear under power snapped the stub axel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 A big thanks to Dave at Arizona Z for getting me a new rear rotor hat. I now have all the parts to put it back together. Its really amazing that guys still make performance parts for an almost 40 year old car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrSideways Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 A big thanks to Dave at Arizona Z for getting me a new rear rotor hat. I now have all the parts to put it back together. Its really amazing that guys still make performance parts for an almost 40 year old car. You should drill the hat to rotor bolts for safety wire. If one of those backs out it goes to machining on the caliper mount. There is no tee-shirt involved when that happens. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 (edited) I have the fronts safety wired. I need the do the rears. Thanks for the prod. Edited March 18, 2010 by mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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