crazyoctopus Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 I am nearing the point to rip out the dash and install something different, but before I do that I want to have a full diagram ready to go so that way i can source all of the pieced needed before the dash is available. Saying that, I did a quick work up on a body wiring diagram and am curious if you could tell me if I need to change anything; miss-placed splices, too low/high amperage of a fuse/relay, etc. The things that are missing from this diagram are: starter, e-fan, wipers, heater, cb radio, fuel pump, and gauges. For a larger version click > HERE < The letters for the colors are not final, but they are what is currently on the car for ease of future installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Don't forget a horn relay and windshield wipers. for the turn signals, you can just use two big flasher relay's, instead of an actual relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 thanks hoov, I decided to remove it completely I am planning on a CB radio with a PA attached to it, so i can just yell through that if need be. and as far as the other stuff goes, this is just the first work ujp i just want to make sure that all of my fuses and relays have the correct amount of power going to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger.svoboda Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 having wire gage size with the correct ampacity for the fuse installed will do more for getting the proper power out then a neat diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 essentially that is what I am asking roger.svoboda; not the wiring gauge, that is something that I will figure out after I find out how long the wires are going to be, but to see if i have those fuses and their relays at the proper amperage. I have been looking back and forth from the 73 wiring diagram and trying to get the fuses as close to the original as possible, but I posted here to check with the people that have done it before to see if what I am doing is correct. When all is said and done this diagram will include everything: gauge size, length, color, part numbers for connectors, and the route it will take so as to be invisible. Everything that someone would want to have, or give, when re-wiring a car. And since I am the one doing it, there will be 2 different versions; one for track/non-street, and one for street (added circuits for turn signals, etc.). The reason behind this is that there really isn't an open source diagram that I use, or have all the information that I want to have on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger.svoboda Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 that will make it much more useful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 11, 2010 Author Share Posted March 11, 2010 (edited) rev1 with a few minor corrections. -the relays actually work now -the switches are connected to the ground and not the power -the indicator lights have been rewired to activate when the relays are in full operation -added a few components. I am still confused as to how I am going to wire up the alternator to the starter/power source and am curious if anyone could give me any leads as to how to progress with this. Assume that the alt is the "upgraded" zx alt or internally regulated alternator Edited March 11, 2010 by crazyoctopus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 An internally regulated alternator usually goes directly to the battery. Atleast that's how I've wired them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 11, 2010 Author Share Posted March 11, 2010 What did you do about the Lamp connection? via http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html As i will be removing the key for starting purposes and using a push button, should i tap it into one of the starter wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 (edited) Revision 2 nearly final wiring diagram of the car. Last three things to diagram is the connection from a 280z electric dizzy with HEI ignition module, the starter, and then figure out how i am going to wire the stereo (essentially 2 speakers connected to a 3.5mm headphone jack, i think i need a amplifier? not really sure still doing some research) again, please look over and give advice. =for the time being the gauges are assumed to be autometer, but that may change if i find a better option ==noticed that you cant really see what is attached to the fuel gauge and it is a 350 and 360ohm resistor ran in parallel. large size http://farm5.static....21f783756_o.jpg Edited March 17, 2010 by crazyoctopus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 could i get away with running the brake lights off of the heater circuit? or better question, are there some circuits that i could combine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 did a quick change to the layout, added a voltmeter as well as the starter and charging circuit completion. the only thing left to add is the 3.5mm headphone to speaker unit. larger image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4439513011_17611f45c7_o.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 updated for kill switch and fuel pump. large image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4442635632_fcedeea5fc_o.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 Moved the wiper motor onto the heater circuit, it just looks like I may be overloading the accessory circuit. The heater connections have been changed. I was planning on running the core with a PC fan, but found this site http://mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/necessary_stuff.htm and am going in that direction. In looking at prices and weights of how to connect the iPod to speakers I found that while a head unit is about $10 more than just an amp, it weighs about 3 times as less. as of right now the cheapest deck that I can find with an aux-in is this http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Dual+-+50W+x+4+In-Dash+CD+Deck+with+Detachable+Faceplate/9463154.p?id=1218108653996&skuId=9463154 ==if you know of a cheaper one I am all ears, all it needs to have is an aux-in. also added a cigarette lighter so that I can charge my iPhone/iPod while on the road. I think this is nearly the final design version of the diagram, if you can see anything that I missed or ways that I could combine circuits let me know. My goal is to have 8 circuits, but as long as I am under 10 I will be a-okay with it. larger image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4444494096_1d942b906f_o.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 27, 2010 Author Share Posted March 27, 2010 new revision, made everything modular. kinda wanted to keep it below 10 circuits but we found some fantastic fuse and relay boxes out of a 90s maxima so how many circuits we use is no longer an issue. larger size >> http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2789/4467690139_0c31f79cfe_o.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 28, 2010 Author Share Posted March 28, 2010 distribution center was taken out of a nissan maxima (if you find a 93 they are slightly easier to work with) total cost $6 at a junkyard. the other way would be to actually buy a pre-built fuse box for $16-$170. with the relays, take it off the smae car and they are pre-wired and fairly easy to identify the amperage, just takes some internet browsing. awesome thing about the nissan relay housings is that you can connect however many you want to eaachother (run anywhere from 5-500 relays and they all snap into eachother) as far as the mounting goes, the 240sx (s13) center console lends itself perfectly for the mounting of the fuse box. The relays will be mounted under the dash near the switches. as far as the wiring goes; all of the relays that I buy/use, except the wiper, are 4 terminal relays. In the case of the wiper motor I am even thinking about just cutting that down a bit and making it switched for fast-off, instead of slow-off-fast, but i am still thinking about it. We have made a few more adjustments since rev6, some of the amperages were a bit excessive, decided on going with an eBayish 12v heater, and I moved/removed a couple more circuits/switches/relays that really didn't need to be there. full size >> http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4469515326_a17763031f_o.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 (edited) I think you're a bloody genius. I haven't looked at the diagrams in detail to analyze them, so that isn't a critique.. just a compliment! I've found a not dissimilar relay bracket setup from a late 80's BMW 3 series (uncertain the full model range) and some Maxi-Fuse action from some GM or other (THAT was an interesting trip.. over to the American Side of the Junkyard, Scary!!) Edited March 28, 2010 by Daeron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 Your alternator wiring is gonna nuke your entire system, it's totally messed up. Internally regulated alternator: BATT to the battery, use an 8 gauge wire, or BIGGER. It's gotta be able to hold a sustained 50-80A, for a ZX alt, or 100A for a GM 12SI alternator. S Connect to the main incoming power to the fuse block. This wire tells the alternator how much voltage it's actually putting out; so you want it located at the same position that the voltmeter is measuring voltage, too. Good place to put it is the incoming power to the fuse block. L This is the lamp connection. YOU MUST USE A CHARGE LIGHT OR A RESISTOR. If you don't do this you will nuke your alternator, and probably the whole wiring harness between the alternator and fuseblock. FOR THE GM 12SI alternator swap (I've done this one, so I feel comfortable saying) the L wire goes to one side of the charge lamp, and the other side goes to switched power. IF THIS WIRE IS NOT CONNECTED then you may not get any charging current, it could work just fine, or it could cause a black hole to form in your engine bay. I don't know. I just hooked it up according to GM's instructions; you need to actually find out how the L wire hooks up on the alternator that you choose to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 29, 2010 Author Share Posted March 29, 2010 after doing a bit of looking, i knew there was a reason why this set up was working, and found the link i was looking for http://http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=115803 if you look at my diagram the splice connecting the alt to the coil is after the delco 8078 pigtail. The splices in the diagram in its current state do not relate to the actual placement on the car just to be used as a reference, for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 If the battery were mounted under the hood the ground wire attached to the alt would be prime; but mine is going to be mounted in the rear passenger bin so that wire would have to be at least an 8 gauge. I am going to probably going to use a 8 to connect it somewhere on the firewall. I did make one change to the second diagram that you sent, and that is instead of running 2-wires back to the starter I am going to use a jumper from the # to the Batt on the alternator and run one wire back to the starter. updated diagram. spliced points moved on the starter to better show where the wires will be meeting. also added the information for properly wiring the alternator via geezer on classicz larger image http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2732/4477751862_9ff537d584_o.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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