Jump to content
HybridZ

Am I missing something, CS130 wiring issues


Geking

Recommended Posts

I have gone through 2 CS130 alts. I have the Bat terminal hooked up to the battery, a separate 8 gauge wire going from the S connection to the battery, and the L wire going to what is left of the Datsun original Alt blue wire in a 78Z. I have everything disconnected in the Blue wire L circuit but the light in the gauge, it measures .32 amps load at 13 volts, so I am looking at around 40 ohms resistance (within the 35-500 ohms listed in the Delco Remy repair manual)

 

When I fire the car up, (or the 2nd alt to make sure I did not burn it out with the starter I hooked it up, put the car to run and spun it with a power drill) the idiot light stays on. I get no output. If I take my alt to Autozone after I try to get it to work, they tell me it is no good. I have two regulators on the way to rebuild both alts, but I am afraid I will just burn them out too. This is quite frustrating because I feel that I know my way around a soldering iron, so what gives?

 

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Read section 3 of this article and call me in the morning.

 

http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Alternator_Theory.html#Section_4

To quote the article:

S-terminal: This is a heavier gauge terminal spade lug that is connected to the battery. This terminal is the “Sense†circuit and monitors battery charge. The S-terminal on the CS-130 regulator is larger than the other three terminals.

 

Check

 

L-Terminal: This terminal is connected to the “Low†side of the warning lamp, with the lamp’s “High†side being fed by the ignition circuit. Some regulators require a 35-ohm resistance inline with this circuit if no lamp is used otherwise alternator damage may ensue.

 

Check

 

And the connection to the bat lug on the back is a no brain-er.

 

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can only go down the list of things to check. At this point you should check everything. Take your alternators to AUTOZONE and have them tested under load. Make no assumptions that anything is connected properly. Test for voltage, and voltage drop across all circuits. Test circuits IN-OPERATION.

 

I own a 240Z, so I had an entirely different set of problems and circuits to start with. I had to build up a circuit to suit the modern alternator. You should figure out what exactly you connected the "L" terminal to(in between the light and your alt.).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...