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ls1 280zx


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  • 8 months later...

It looks like Angela ( 280 ZXT ) is going to get a 6.0 turbo . So far  I have LQ4 block , LS3 heads and intake , 102mm TB , T76mm turbo . Saving up somemore cash or selling my leftovers ( and junks ) to get the shortblock built with forged components .

 

Also my T56 is going sour . Time to upgrade to stage II rebuild . IRS will be replaced with solid axle , 8.8 GT rearend  .

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  • 1 year later...

I am looking to put stainless headers in my 1983 280ZX LS1 conversion.  My drivers side looks to be able to clear a rear discharge manifold, but the passenger has the starter in the way.  Any suggestions.

Most block hugger headers will work on the pass. side ( center exit collector ) . Driver side is the main problem , steering shaft is in the way . 2010 Camaro shorty header might work on driver side ( rear exit collector ) . And you can order a single ( left or right ) header from Summit Racing , you don't have to buy a set then use only one . 

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  • 1 month later...

I know this post is old, but I have a 5.3 swap in the works, and had a few questions on the total swap done.

Pardon me if I show some ignorance, still in the research phase, but got everything down to just a few concerns.

I was looking into doing the JTR SBC swap kit, with the LSX conversion mounts. So far it sounds like it would work,

and having it sit a tad higher shouldn't really effect too much down there right?

Also I noticed you guys had to fabricate your oil pans. I've been trying to look into how big/quarts that the stock oil

pan holds and was wondering if I went to a "GM Performance" 5 quarts would actually clear anything under the 

vehicle without having to modify anything. Hope it works? Having less oil. My guess is you would need to do more

oil changes more often?

If you guys used the stock wiring harnesses for your LS swap, what did you

guys do about the 02 sensors, and the likes? Or did you guys keep it?

I will be forever thankful if you guys could help me with this build. As this built 280zx isn't going to be for me in the 

long run. Any help would make my build faster and better for the person who will be receiving the vehicle when

I'm done.

Thanks again. :D

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I know this post is old, but I have a 5.3 swap in the works, and had a few questions on the total swap done.

Pardon me if I show some ignorance, still in the research phase, but got everything down to just a few concerns.

I was looking into doing the JTR SBC swap kit, with the LSX conversion mounts. So far it sounds like it would work,

and having it sit a tad higher shouldn't really effect too much down there right?

Also I noticed you guys had to fabricate your oil pans. I've been trying to look into how big/quarts that the stock oil

pan holds and was wondering if I went to a "GM Performance" 5 quarts would actually clear anything under the 

vehicle without having to modify anything. Hope it works? Having less oil. My guess is you would need to do more

oil changes more often?

If you guys used the stock wiring harnesses for your LS swap, what did you

guys do about the 02 sensors, and the likes? Or did you guys keep it?

I will be forever thankful if you guys could help me with this build. As this built 280zx isn't going to be for me in the 

long run. Any help would make my build faster and better for the person who will be receiving the vehicle when

I'm done.

Thanks again. :D

It doesn't matter how your motor/trans sit as long as you have clearance and the driveline is phased ( in correct angle ) . 

 

I don't think GM performance oil pan will work . Fbody  is the only one has enough ground clearance . A modified C6 oil pan might work too if your motor sits high enough . If you modify Fbody as I suggested ( not like mine ) , you will able to fill it to full capacity . Dipstick will indicate a little higher , just make a new " full " mark , oil will not interference with crankshaft .

 

As for the wiring harness , you will need everything minus emissions . NO : rear O2s ( post cats ) , EVAP , secondary air injection ( if equipped ) , EGR ( if equipped ) . Make sure VAT is removed from PCM and all related emissions are deleted . 

 

Good luck .

Edited by Domzs
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Been messaging back and forth with Domzs with some questions I've had while getting my LSx swap started/completed. Domzs suggested I get this thread going again since its been a few months now.

Little back ground: I've had my '83 for two years now. First year was gathering parts and resurrecting it from 23 years of storage. My father-in-law bought it summer of '84 and stored it in '91. He asked if I would get it cleaned up, running, and sold...I've had it ever since. S13 coilovers, 16x8 rota rbs, 225/45 tires all the way around. Did a bunch of autocrossing this past summer. Puked the waterpump, and now the L28 is sitting in the corner of the shop.

So long story short, I've planned on doing a LS swap on this car since the first time he really told me about it.

 

I'm almost ready to get the mock-up block set down in the car. I'm in process of weeding out the original engine wiring from the harness. I'd like to clean up the original wiring as much as I can but keep the heat blowing, lights working, that sort of stuff. I've deleted a/c and every component including the stuff from under the dash. I've left the heater core in place and plan to come up with some way of routing the hoses cause as it sits right now it looks like they'll hit the pass. side cylinder head. I've got to keep heat in the car, Michigan can have cold mornings. Any body have an easy solution? I'm planning on some 90* bends out of the firewall as of right now, seems to be the most logical. Also have two vacuum lines that ran from the canister on the right inner fender. They were hooked to the two solenoids on that canister. One line runs to the climate controller/vent selector, and the other feeds the vent solenoids under the dash. I'm gonna guess I can give them engine vacuum and hope the vents work.

Car will have a complete stand-alone engine harness with new wiring run for the electric fan(s) and the Bosch 044 fuel pump. T56. Gauges will be all AutoMeter and also on a seperate wiring harness. How did you go about hooking up the GM alternator (F-Body/Camaro accesory drive/components) to power the factory electrical stuff? I've printed out the factory (s130) wiring diagrams in hopes they would help guide me to where and what certain components are and aid in removal of unnecesary stuff.

Hopefully I havent totally bored you all yet. I wasn't planning to write a book, just hoping to do a high quality swap.

I plan on making engine mounts. C5 Corvette mounts look like they would work well on the engine side, just need to make a base for them on the subframe. I might give them a shot. The JTR SBC mounts would make for a truely "bolt-in" with some LS to SBC adapters. I've hear those adapter plates may interfere with the low mounted alternator depending on how far back the motor sits. And the price of the JTR stuff is not attractive. Gonna assume I'll need to make the T56 crossmember/support also. Sure would be nice to find some longtubes that would work out. Probably have to be custom built at this point. Shortys will have to work for now. I've got a F-body pan setup that I can modify, I've also picked up a Canton S13/14 front sump swap pan (screaming deal and easy sell if it doesnt work out) that I'd be interested to see if it works.

 

Now that I've bored you, I guess all there is left to do is ask for any input. The info on here has been good, just think it would be cool to see it expanded on. I know its not nearly as popular as the S30 swap, but with enough of us I think we could make it just as fool-proof. More pictures would be awesome. I'm gonna try my best to get some up here as I go.

 

Jake

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For those who are planning on using OE clutch master, here are the parts i used: Clutch hydraulic line : 515 - 13930 ( AN4 ) . Speedway Motors ; FRA - 650222 ( adapter to Nissan line . AN4 to female 10mm x  1.0 inverted flare ) . Summit Racing . There are many different lengths on clutch line to choose from. The adapter goes where the original slave cylinder hose goes. You can opt to get an adapter goes straight to the master and different length line. I opted to keep OE hard line, this helps cooling the fluid. 

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