inline6 Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Reading the instructions... doesn't quite give me the info I need. Block threads are clean. I put a bit of the lube that came with them on the threads that go in the block. I installed each as far as they would go, finger tight. Instructions call for 60 ft-lbs instead of factory torque settings. That's it? Finger tight studs and 60 ft-lbs of torque once the head is in place? Garrett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 The molly lube that comes with it goes on the upper threads. And yes, that is it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 The molly lube that comes with it goes on the upper threads. And yes, that is it. +12345 Torque in 3 stages of 20 ft-lbs up to 60 ft-lbs and call it a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 The molly lube that comes with it goes on the upper threads. And yes, that is it. Oh. Yep, that makes sense that the lube goes on the nuts that get torqued. Any problems putting some of the lube on the threads that go in the block? I wouldn't think so... Garrett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglist Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Those instructions are the worst. For spending over $120 for some damn bolts, you'd think you would get some better instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raami Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 I bought ARP-studs too to my L28 and I'm going to put those with new kameari metalheadgasket. I bought 2 gaskets at the same time so that I don't have to order again soon. =D But back to those ARP-studs. I have always retorqued my head with stock bolts and metalheadgasket but have anyone of you retorqued with ARP-studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srgunz Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 Finger tight?? Won't the studs pull out when attempting to remove the nuts to remove the head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 Some times yes..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 Finger tight?? Won't the studs pull out when attempting to remove the nuts to remove the head? I pull the studs first whenever I remove the head. It makes it so much easier to remove and install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 I have the studs, still in the sealed box and haven't read the included instruction sheet at this point, but I'm having a hard time with realizing that 60 ft/lbs of torque is what they're calling for on a turbocharged motor. The reason behind this is due to recently rebuilding and installing ARP head studs on my 91 Toyota Cressida with a 7MGE (NON-Turbo) and the instructions calling for 125 ft/lbs of torque being used on that engine. Both engines (L28 and 7MGE) use cast iron blocks with aluminum heads....so why the high torque spec on an NA engine and not on the Turbocharged one? Now I'm NOT doubting the manufacturer's judgement or specs, just wondering why such a low torque requirement (by comparison) on a turbocharged engine whose cylinder pressures would be so much higher (under boost) than a normally aspirated engine with a higher compression ratio. Perhaps I'm just reading the requirements wrong and not taking the compression ratio differences into account, but still. It would seem (to me) that you'd want MORE torque on a turbocharged engine than an N/A one. Am I the only one who sees this as strange? If so, perhaps I don't fully understand the concept in use. Anybody care to discuss this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 I will take a stab at this. Bolt stretch and head thickness. (expansion contraction of the head.) Could also be the spacing of bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raami Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 Are those bolts same size and I mean diameter? And are the threads same in both bolts or studs? Those can make a difference in wanted torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 The ARP headstuds have a finer thread pitch for the nut that is being tq'd than what the OE head bolt has. Thus you need less ft/lbs to create more clamping force. THE DIRECTIONS A VERY CLEAR THAT COME WITH THE HARDWARE! It gives a tq spec for the molly lube and a spec for regular oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HB280ZT Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 Great information, as I have a set of the ARP headstuds but did not get the instructions or the molly lube. So what is the torque specs using oil? HB280ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J240ZTurbo Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 (edited) QUESTION ??? I found a new set ARP studs after I installed my new p90 head with my regular factory studs, I intalled a new 1mm hks metal head , this engine has not been teuned on after this job and I now have the ARP can I removed the regular factory studs and intalled my ARP studs by sliding these thru the holes and screws these in with no issues can this be done without damaging the metal gasket and its performance? I really dont want to remove the head again = ( Edited July 29, 2010 by juan240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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