Upgrade a N/A to Coil Packs and Remove MAF

[Albert]

Hi Guys! My '83 zx 2=2 has been off the road for 18 months, back on the road at last.

All interior re-apholstered - custom Job. New Nakamishi in-dash 7" head unit, 7" monitors on head rests, SUB in the Back, split system in the doors with custom pods. Sounds Awesome!!!!!!!!

 

Now looking at upgrading the electronics!

Where I am At!

 

Headers

2 1/2 inch exhaust

Head Ported & polished

Stage 1 Cam

60mm Throtle Body

Custom 3 inch cold air intake

Custome Fuel Rail

Crane LX91 Coil

The rest of my engine is unchanged.

After Market Fuel Preasure regulator

 

Here is the dilemar

I would Like my girl to remain Naturaly Asperated - I love the sound she gives off.

I would Like to eliminate the MAF box from the intake;

* it looks like a brick

* spoils the engine bay

* in the way of an improved throttle response due to lack of space between the MAF and throttle body.

While I am at it;

remove the distributor setup and use individual coil pack for the best spark ever.

No doubt I would need to consider things such as Crank Angle Sensor and adjustable Timing gear

 

I keep thinking that I am missing something here!

 

I guess I am after some feedback from the knowledge pool out there.

I have had my Zed for nearly eleven years now and plan on keeping her for eleven more.

I feel I need to get her out of the past and into the current Tuning options so that I can get as much out of her - without going Turbo.

 

Help Guys!

Mad Aussie in love with his Zed

Edited June 14, 2010 by Albert

[boostless]

Go megasquirt and convert to a map sensor, I've also seen people use GM coil packs.

[woldson]

Megasquirt and wasted spark. The 60mm will do nothing. Search these things and let us know what you think.

[BRAAP]

Ditto what those said.

If you decide to keep the OE EFI, (leaving power on the table doing so), leave the cam stock as the OE EFI does have enough tune-ability to tune around how a cam changes the VE curve. Stock EFI means stock cam. If you go aftermarket EFI, (get rid of that AFM from the air stream is big plus), then you can install a cam and take advantage of what bigger cam offers.

 

As they said, search this forum for the specifics you listed and you will find tons of info that will help guide down the path of what mods will bring the most bang or the buck and which ones wont deliver anything other than "Ricer-appeal"!

[Albert]

Much appreciated!

I will search further on these topics.

Love your work!

[SHADY280]

i also am going down this road. i have ms2 v3.57. there is tons of info in the megasquirt section. problem is there is too much. it soooo easy to get swapped reading it all. but it does start to make sense. with the coil pack ignition, you need to mount a toothed ring on the crank, but i have a/c and that makes things a bit more difficult. most use that space to mount the ring. so what i plan and suggest is to get the car running with a dizzy, then upgrade the ignition later. a bit more work, but it will allow you to understand the megasquirt in stages and not be overwhelmed

[m1ghtymaxXx]

Has anyone down the vg30 ecu swap on a N/A? It would be a cheap alternative, however finding the 83 zxt dizzy might be tricky.

[BleachZee]

Has anyone down the vg30 ecu swap on a N/A? It would be a cheap alternative, however finding the 83 zxt dizzy might be tricky.

Yes someone has done that. I remember a member of Zdriver did the Z31 swap on a non-turbo 280ZX and got it running.

[Brad-ManQ45]

Please be aware that a toothed ring is not the only way to achieve CAS w/MegaSquirt.

 

You can use the same types of magnets that Electromotive uses and mount them (epoxied) in holes drilled in the back of the dampener and fab a solid mounting bracket for a Hall sensor, which is what I will be doing. MS can be set up to utilize either VR or Hall sensors, and it's easier to use the Hall sensors - less circuitry.

 

It is the same setup that you would use for the stock distributor, since it's optical (both Hall sensors and optical sensors output a square wave signal, versus a sine wave for the VR sensors, which require signal modification to be a square wave to work w/MS.

 

Doing a 12-1 setup is not that difficult, but you can go 36-1 if you want - just buy more magnets.

 

6-1 would be the least you can get away with. More magnets = greater resolution.

 

Either way, once you determine where the sensor is to be mounted, and where TDC is, you want the missing tooth to be ~60 degrees ahead of where the timing mark shows TDC on #1 cylinder.

 

This eliminates a lot of hassles with the toothed ring thickness, pulley alignment and having to have the bracket go through the belts so the senso can read the teeth if mounted on the front of the pulleys...