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No heater good or bad?


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Like I said we can sit here and chitchat all day but its obviously working for me. One thing that I just thought of as to why it may be working for so long is that I have a metal shim HG. Don't you turbo guys run something else that will blow out? I don't know... I'm going to get my manual now. lol

 

Your head gasket is irrelevant to this discussion.

Almost 40 years experience, and as much reading, have taught me a thing or two.

I work with automobiles and their problems EVERYDAY, far more complex than a 70's Datsun. My repairs don't come back.

I learned all the concepts a long time ago.

 

Do you honestly think you have a better understanding of engineering, than the people who designed the car you own today???

Edited by jasper
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Your head gasket is irrelevant to this discussion.

Almost 40 years experience, and as much reading, have taught me a thing or two.

I work with automobiles and their problems EVERYDAY, far more complex than a 70's Datsun. My repairs don't come back.

I learned all the concepts a long time ago.

 

Do you honestly think you have a better understanding of engineering, than the people who designed the car you own today???

I think you're taking this too personally Jasper... :( My response to what you are saying though is I'm not out smarting you I'm simply stating that my system, which apparently is hooked up wrong, has been running for 2 years of daily use to everywhere I go and there has been zero overheating. Don't get flustered because I'm not having any problems and I am advocating something that clearly works for me.

 

I'm still taking you're word on the subject though because I'm building a second motor since the car is being taken off the road and put into track use, where cooling demands will be more. As of right now, I would say my system is not hooked up wrong because obviously its working, and working means correct in my books because the purpose of the car and the job it was designated has been fulfilled.

 

Jerry rigged: Yes

Wrong: No

 

:P

Edited by josh817
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Your illustration shows an OPEN themostat,and associated coolant flow, and does NOT illustrate the factory heater sytem.

 

WHERE IS the diagram, showing coolant flow, prior to thermostat opening???

Dude I don't know, both Haynes and Chilton show the same picture. Lets open our own thermostats and cool down a little. <_<

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I think you're taking this too personally Jasper... :( My response to what you are saying though is I'm not out smarting you I'm simply stating that my system, which apparently is hooked up wrong, has been running for 2 years of daily use to everywhere I go and there has been zero overheating. Don't get flustered because I'm not having any problems and I am advocating something that clearly works for me.

 

I'm still taking you're word on the subject though because I'm building a second motor since the car is being taken off the road and put into track use, where cooling demands will be more. As of right now, I would say my system is not hooked up wrong because obviously its working, and working means correct in my books because the purpose of the car and the job it was designated has been fulfilled.

 

Jerry rigged: Yes

Wrong: No

 

Working, or passable, does not mean correct.

This would certainly be less than the designed parameters.

 

The theory of operations sections in many shop manuals, is invaluable to understanding system operations.

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Don't feel sorry.

Chilton's mostly, and Haynes, sometimes suck. They CAN'T,and DON'T show you EVEYTHING you need to know, about cars.

I didn't learn all I know overnight. My type of knowledge takes DECADES to accumulate.

 

Your college education that is forthcoming, will be far more valuable than my automotive knowledge............GOOD LUCK IN COLLEGE. :)

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Do your home work. Total system pressure is goverened by the RADIATOR CAP.

 

Overall system blanket pressure, yes. I am referring to the pressure inside the engine between the water pump and thermostat restriction. The pressure there is much higher at 6500 RPM than the radiator cap pressure rating.

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Overall system blanket pressure, yes. I am referring to the pressure inside the engine between the water pump and thermostat restriction. The pressure there is much higher at 6500 RPM than the radiator cap pressure rating.

 

Exactly!

 

Jasper, how would the radiator cap sense pressure inside the block? It can't, it gets its readings from the radiator since that's where it is installed. The pressure between the pump and thermostat inherently has to be higher than pressure at the cap because of the restriction.

 

Please read the thread that was linked here earlier before making more replies.

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Exactly!

 

Jasper, how would the radiator cap sense pressure inside the block? It can't, it gets its readings from the radiator since that's where it is installed. The pressure between the pump and thermostat inherently has to be higher than pressure at the cap because of the restriction.

 

Please read the thread that was linked here earlier before making more replies.

 

Correct. The highest pressure in the cooling system is immediately after the pump, the lowest pressure is right before the pump. If you understand fluid mechanics, the radiator cap actually sees some of the lowest pressure in the cooling system as it is far downstream of the pump.

 

Those of us blocking the heater bypass line are also running a turbo setup with a coolant cooled turbo. I've tapped #5 and #6 and route one to the turbo and the other to the lower t-stat housing. The turbo coolant drains to the water pump inlet. In this way I get some circulation prior to the t-stat opening up.

 

The localized hot spots jasper is referring to are well known in the L6 heads. They occur around cylinders 5 and 6. Again, read the sticky at the top of the L6 forum.

 

This thread should be deleted as it has been extensively discussed in the L6 forum.

Edited by ktm
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Just discover that in some l28 heads you will also find that they come with two side entries, one is control by the heater core, but the other has free flow from the radiator, I now belived there is no need for plugging.

post-5064-073151300 1279105805_thumb.jpg

post-5064-067144700 1279105954_thumb.jpg

Edited by juan240z
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Just discover that in some l28 heads you will also find that they come with two side entries, one is control by the heater core, but the other has free flow from the radiator, I now belived there is no need for plugging.

What thread is that port anyway, if you know? :unsure:

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