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1971 240z rb25det build thread


5thgenluder

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Finally got the clutch and mounted the motor. It was a huge pain. The hoist I rented was terrible and to get the motor in It had to be almost vertical and was a balancing act of jacking up the trans while lowering the motor. Here are a few pics of it installed. Ps I am just figuring out the wiring to decide how I want to run it all. That is not its permanent locations.

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As you can see the oil pan is just barely resting on the crossmember

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I am thinking I can just put some fender washers above the poly bushing and below the engine mount. What do you think?

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Please give me your feedback on the pan issue.

 

 

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Washers will work fine, that's what I did. I had the RIPS pan and it did the same thing.

 

 

 

I agree, Mckinney's mounts are very low. A couple washers won't hurt anything. I can't make the pan any shorter than that without hitting the engine girdle and cause crank splash and possible engine damage.

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My mounts are the same way. My pan was that close too I just added a few washers both under the poly mount and on top of it. I also have an external oil pickup which made things even tighter. Go through the wiring and take out what you dont need. I was planning on doing this later, but I dont think I ever will, now i have A LOT of extra bs like that wiper relay thing and countless other crap. Looking good man.

 

If you look closely that is a quarter on top of my rack. No more clearance.

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Edited by ZT-R
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HELP!!!

 

Got a lot done today which I will post later. For now I have some questions. I will number them so if you know an answer you can just respond with the number.

 

1. Where does this 6 pin plug that is close to the firewall grommet go?

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2. What should I connect this open pipe on the Aac valve? The biggest pipe on the aac valve.

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3. There is a cut wire on the engine harness near the alternator. What is the function of there wires?

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4. Also a blue plug near the alternator. What does this connect to?

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5. Have a cut brown plug on the engine harness. Does this need to connect to anything?

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6. Have a green plug that has a firewall grommet on it.

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7. Is this the Maf plug? Do I just not connect it if I am not running a Maf?

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8. Orange plug? Where does this go?

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9. What is this?

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10. Last but not least. This plug on the trans is rubbing up against the tunnel. What is its purpose? Can I just remove it?

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I wouldnt worry about most of that wiring. I have so much plugs on the intake side that are just hangin there. Granted i am a RB26 so i cant attest to some of it.

10.

Here is what i did for my speed sensor. I am running an AEM EMS so i am doing alot of Boost/vss (vehicle speed sensor) dependent stuff.

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8.

That does look like a mass air flow harness, get a wiring diagram and trace the "clear shielded wire" that should be the Signal.

6.

I think I had an oil temp or something look like that... but i didnt use it.

4. I have a harness like that on my rb26 and it housed the VSS and reverse and neutral switch. Not critical for me but to each his own...

1.

I have a plug like this that i didnt use.

 

Again you need to look at a wiring diagram and trace the wire or the wire color back to the ecu and determine what it is. Do not trust what someone posts as their motor/harness could be different. It only takes a second to trace the diagram with the wire colors and verify with a multimeter.

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zt-r. I have a gps speedo so I shouldnt need the vss. Can I just remove it? Or is it a mechanical part of the trans?

 

I cant believe that those Mckinney mounts are so damn expensive and still you need to tamper with them to make them work ok.

Kind of sucks. Im going to try to make some of my own mounts out of the ones that are in my 240sx.

 

You can take out the VSS if you dont want to use it, but you will need to close up that hole somehow because the oil will spill out.

Hope this helped

 

-Bohdan

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#2 That pipe stays open.

#9 is a boost solenoid. The stock waste gate on the turbo is set to 5 psi this is bleed boost so that the waste gate doesn't open until 7 psi.

 

the aac valve did not stal open in my car. I had to connect it to a pipe that i had to weld on my intercooler piping? You managed to have a drivable rb with the pipe open? when i test drove it with it open my car was driving really bad but when I connected the hose it ran the way it was supposed to...

 

One more thing, where is the stock placement of the boost solenoid? is it under the wastegate? or attached to that section of the rb?

Edited by David GArcia
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David that is what I thought. It should get tapped into the intercooler piping in between the throttle body and intercooler.

 

Motorman.

What is the best way to integrate that boost solenoid? Just leave it how it was?

 

Might I ask where did you find that boost solenoid on the engine bay? I belive I dont have one because my blow off valve seems to recirculate the air a little too soon.

Edited by David GArcia
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Sorry about that guys. I was looking at a magazine. Its called project car. In the magazine they left it open(also in the greddy instructions for the plumbing.. When David said that he had to connect his to a boost source i looked into it more. The valve that you are showing a picture of is know as the IAC or IAA valve. It is there to manage the idle of the engine. David i take it that when you got on the gas hard and than let off the car wanted to stall out. Other then that to car should have run find. Unless you are running an a/c or power steering. From what the FSM shows it should be plumbed in before the turbo so its not seeing and boost. But if it is working for David there shouldn't be a problem with the IAA seeing boost. Let us know if you do run into any problems with it seeing boost.

 

Here is a good post about the IAA.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/93505-air-regulator-idle-question/

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If you decide to eliminate the boost solenoid, that is fine also. while i was running on stock ECU (about 8 months) it worked fine and didnt have any error codes. I also never used the IAA valve either. Had power steering but no a/c and the car would never stall because of those things.

 

-Bohdan

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On my 26 i plumbed the AAC and Air Regulator to bungs that I welded on the intercooler pipe before the TB. Mine idles rock solid at 750 rpm.

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Not sure if this will help you or not...

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Yes you can remove the VSS but just make a block off plate out of aluminum or something to seal it. If are you wanting to go with an EMS or something I would go ahead and notch the mount. With the AEM you can do boost control via VSS and all kinda fun stuff with it. A nice way of traction control. At some point I will put speed sensors in for actual traction control but thats later...

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