How to install S13 Coilovers on 280zx (and poly bushings)

[m1ghtymaxXx]

Well I finished up my S13 coilover swap onto my 280zx this past weekend, and hit the autocross track yesterday with great results. With all the coilover discussion in the suspension tech thread, I'm surprised this isn't a standard swap. If I can do it, anyone can. Not only is it straight forward, but it cost far less than I had planned on spending to make my own coilovers from the stock strut housings.

 

I found a set of Megan Racing street series coilovers for the S13 locally for $400 CAD used, but in good shape.

 

A search of this site found how to threads of people installing these on s30's, z31's and 510's, but couldn't find any evidence of it done to a S130. Regardless, it looked like an easy enough project for me to take on.

 

First off, I just removed the bottom mounts:

 

Then took an angle grinder to the mounts, until all i was left with was a threaded tube:

 

Then I grabbed a spare set of strut tubes I yanked out of a junkyard 280zx years ago. After sitting outside, the spindles looks pretty rusty, but a brass wheel brought them right back to new:

 

Next off, I needed to have the tubes milled out slightly so that the inner diameter matches the outer diameter of the strut tube. A machinist did this locally for a cost of $25. Unfortunately I don't have pics of this, but it's a simper procedure on a lathe.

 

Next up is welding the cut off spindle to the tube. Initially I was worried that the coilovers would be unable to go up to stock ride height without leaving the a couple inches of strut tube hanging out the bottom, however after measuring the preload in the springs (about 4 inches), vs. the new 450 lb/in spring rate, I realized I should be alright butting the tube right up to the cast spindle, however I left a quarter inch of so for welding, which was done by a friend, since I have no welding experience:

 

Somehow I managed to forget to take a pic of the final painted assembled product, but with a coat of red paint on the bottom assembly, it looked pretty fancy.

[m1ghtymaxXx]

Next came installation on the car. I decided to order a set of MSA poly bushings, and new ballpoints while I was at it. I also cleaned up and painted a new set of control arms, TC rods, and dust shields while I was at it:

 

 

In order to remove the old bushings, I used a drill bit to drill around, and generally mangle the bushing until it comes out. Only takes about 5 minutes, and I would recommend this over torching them like I've seen suggested on here, as they come out with no mess.

 

I then went to fit the new front control arm bushings when I found they didn't appear to be close to fitting. It looked like there was sleeve pressed in, but I couldn't figure out how to get it out for the life of me (tried a hammer and socket to no avail). Grayzee on here offered me a life saver of a suggestion. Take a hacksaw and cut the sleeve:

Then you can pound it with a slothead screwdriver and curl it up, at which point it will pretty much fall out on its own:

 

Then the bushing will go in by hand:

 

There's no point in explaining how to replace struts, but I can give tips to how I solved a few minor issues:

The outer tie rod ends can be easily separated by unscrewing the nut so that it covers the top of the threaded shaft of the tie rod end. This way you can seperate with a could good hits of a hammer without damaging the threads. After though, you might find the ball joint spins so that the nut won't come off. Jack up the tie rod end with a floor jack to create some friction so that the nut will come off. Also, jack up the tie rod ends when putting everything back together.

 

Here's all the suspension out:

 

And back together again:

 

5mm spacers were required to fit my 225/60s on stock 14" six spokes down to about a 2" drop. Further than this and the tire interferes with the coil spring, however this shouldn't be an issue with stock size tires.

 

I will hopefully update later this aft with stance pics, and how the rears go in (complete bolt in minus 1 new hole in strut tower)

[PurePontiacKid]

This is pretty standard stuff for the Z31 guys...

[m1ghtymaxXx]

This is pretty standard stuff for the Z31 guys...

 

Yeah, as I mentioned in the original post, I've seen it done on 510's, s30's and z31's, just no yet on an s130. Just trying to show how easy an alternative it is for adjustable suspension.

[bluezx]

Nice detailed write-up. It's great to see more quality coil-over installs on s130's.

I'm using Ground Controls but I like your set-up for the ability to change ride hieght without compressing the springs.

[zxtman]

...looks good. How about the rears?

[boostless]

what all did you actually grinde off the tube? The brackets to mount the coil over to the s13 hub and the brake line holder?

[PurePontiacKid]

^Yes...

[boostless]

Cool, that's what I thought. Can you get some pics of the car?

[dernikmatute2008]

+1

[Forcer]

Sticky?

[MiKeL 260]

Got My tein HA in the back of my s130, now just waiting to get some teins for the front!!

[m1ghtymaxXx]

Sorry, started a new life on the East Coast and Haven't logged in in ages. Here's Before:

 

 

And after:

 

 

Rear ride height is near stock, due to lack of camber adjustment and unwillingness to further rape my tires. Front right height is limited by my bulging 225's on the stock 6" rims. They have 5mm spacers, but that's as low as it'll go before the tires rub the coil. Need wider spacers and longer studs to go any lower.

[SHADY280]

do the rear bolt on using the s130 top hat?? ive been reading and think this is the case, but im just trying to make sure. same with the front top, or does s13 tops work in front? to rectify the rubbing problem, would it be bennificial to get a shorter coil, then turn up the adjuster? it looks like you have some room to do so

[m1ghtymaxXx]

do the rear bolt on using the s130 top hat?? ive been reading and think this is the case, but im just trying to make sure. same with the front top, or does s13 tops work in front? to rectify the rubbing problem, would it be bennificial to get a shorter coil, then turn up the adjuster? it looks like you have some room to do so

 

That is a possible fix, but it probably wouldn't be an issue running stock size rubber (205), or of course less offset wheels. Also I believe the Canadian HTA requires a minimum 2 inches upward and downward travel (ei: 2 inches of preload + an additional 2" of compression travel). I measured 4.5" of space between the coils along the whole spring (and I doubt they're preloading 2"), so any smaller a spring and I'd be facing an improper equipment ticket, at least while I was living in Winnipeg, MB, where owning anything other than a beige Corrola is a crime. Luckily I just moved to St. John's NL, where the roads are twisty and the cops are a little more relaxed.

 

Anyways, the front's share the same top mount pattern between the S13 and S130, but of course to make use of the camber plates you must open up the tops of the strut tower, which I have yet to get around to.

 

For the rears, I kept the 2 bolt S13 top hat and drilled another hole in the strut tower. If was thinking ahead, I would have looked for an S130 top hat to put on the S13 coilover. It doesn't require a pillow ball, so as long as the center hole is the same size (or small + drilling), it would be an easy and cleaner remedy.

Edited December 19, 2010 by m1ghtymaxXx

[280zx 2by2]

Ian's mad bros, because he wasn't the first to do the swap.

[PurePontiacKid]

Ian's mad bros, because he wasn't the first to do the swap.

 

 

I wouldn't want to do this setup because it limits how low you can go greatly

[ovenfood]

Anyways, the front's share the same top mount pattern between the S13 and S130, but of course to make use of the camber plates you must open up the tops of the strut tower, which I have yet to get around to.

 

you could always use a spacer so the camber adjust bolts clear. most camber plates have long bolts for strut bars

 

For the rears, I kept the 2 bolt S13 top hat and drilled another hole in the strut tower. If was thinking ahead, I would have looked for an S130 top hat to put on the S13 coilover. It doesn't require a pillow ball, so as long as the center hole is the same size (or small + drilling), it would be an easy and cleaner remedy.

 

im unsure of your specific combination but i have not had much luck combining my tanabe s13 rear coilovers and pedders strut tops :>

[m1ghtymaxXx]

you could always use a spacer so the camber adjust bolts clear. most camber plates have long bolts for strut bars

 

 

The camber plates/adjuster bolts fit just fine. But they can't be accessed without opening up the strut tower somewhat. I just set the camber to 0 before installing them, since a mac strut suspension shouldn't camber in too much with the drop I was going for.

 

im unsure of your specific combination but i have not had much luck combining my tanabe s13 rear coilovers and pedders strut tops :>

 

What was the issue? Of course you could always go the same route I did temporarily. The extra hole is hidden by the strut tower "caps".

[ovenfood]

i tested the camber tops at full travel and it needed cutting to get full travel :<

 

the spring wont seat in the strut tops :< was just going to go 2 hole and put a strut brace in (my rear is striped) so when mr officer looks in all he sees is 2 bolt holes not 4... :>