LegnaZetr0 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 builds looking great, its gonna be stanced nice with those 9.5's all around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voltron_boi Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 builds looking great, its gonna be stanced nice with those 9.5's all around. Thanks for the appreciation, and yes it's gonna be that stance look. Just can't wait tell my 2nd pair of "wats" arrive in Long beach , cailfornia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voltron_boi Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 June. 11-12, 2011 weekend Its been a month since I work on my car, because I had a little honda project on the side that I had to rebuild, because the guy who I bought it from basically bs me in buying his motor. Leakdown test on the motor and cylinder 2 was bad, 10,70,12,10. Soon as I found out the numbers next day, I call him and he supposedly had say he used my money on a turbo kit already and for me to wait, next couple days. While three days later he didn't even call me back or answer my phone call, so Forsure he is full of bs. Then for a long talk with my brother I decide to just rebuild the motor.  Install new piston rings, and have the machine shop do a valve job and install new valve stem seal. For the complete long block (800), parts(200) and labor(200). Now I'm just waiting on some of my other parts, so I can drop it into my civic. Will enough with that Honda scene, and let's get back to my original topic. Will just 2 days ago I finally received my freddy manifold back from powder coating, with a 5 months wait. I was surprise when I took it out from the box. But after I mounted the manifold back on my motor, it had some of my figure stain from installing the hardware back onto the manifold. Will with a soft towel and hot water to clean those stain, the clear coat and paint just came off, n left a sphere. I was pretty upset when that had happened. So basically a 5 month wait period just went down for a waste . While since manifold is now install, I decide to reinstall my q45 TB and intercooler piping. I am using red engine paint as a first coat, and second coat of the chrome on my pipes in spray cans. I just hope the chrome will hold the heat. Now I'm just waiting to buy a new idler, since mine is in a "okay" situation. I call and search many sites and no company in the united state stock them, and is all back-order. Other county has them, but they want double the price of what united state company list it for. So now I just decide to use my old one for now just for temporality, until the new one are back order then I'll  replace both the idler, tensioner and timing belt.  Everything is install, such as wiring, oil lines, and water lines. I didn't have to do much on my rb harness, because it was already wire up to my 280z last 2 years, so just gotta make a new 3 wire connection to my ignition, from the rb harness. Hopefully by tomorrow I should be able to start it up.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) Looking Good ! I'm still on building my coilovers and front end Energy bushing replacemant. Almost done, just gotta test fit and finals welds by my co-worker. I might have a extra set of rear disc brake brackets. I'm having them made base on the one's I bought but they won't be exact, plus he can make them for whatever caliper too, we'll see what happens. I just picked up the cherry picker from my dads house so I can pull the engine/tranny. I scored some 88' turbo axles for free from someone who just wanted to get rid of stuff. They just need the boots replaced and some cleaning. I was shooting for the diff too but it was gone already. Edited June 13, 2011 by Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voltron_boi Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 Looking Good ! I'm still on building my coilovers and front end Energy bushing replacemant. Almost done, just gotta test fit and finals welds by my co-worker. I might have a extra set of rear disc brake brackets. I'm having them made base on the one's I bought but they won't be exact, plus he can make them for whatever caliper too, we'll see what happens. I just picked up the cherry picker from my dads house so I can pull the engine/tranny. I scored some 88' turbo axles for free from someone who just wanted to get rid of stuff. They just need the boots replaced and some cleaning. I was shooting for the diff too but it was gone already. My rear disc brake is giving me a bit of a headache. Im kinda regretting going through on this route. The capilers and rotor is already mounted on, and the part that confuse me is the e-brake cable. The manual say I gotta modifly my e-brake cable, and gotta use a 240z e-brake cable. I'm currently am using the original brake cable from the 260z, because I think it might be the same as the 240z, since mine 260z is the earlie type. But, to confirm I have not yet. For some reason the 260z cable is thicker then the 280zx, and it is not allowing the 260z cable into the 280zx tip. These are the tip that I am talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Can you drill the hole bigger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voltron_boi Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 Can you drill the hole bigger? No, I haven't try that yet, but hopefully that ideal will work. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voltron_boi Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 June 14-15, 2011 What a bad year for me this year; not so lucky at all this year. My Acura motor had a leaking valve when I first bought it, and then now my rb has a broken valve that messed up the piston. I was so close of having it started, after setting for at least 2 years. Will if you haven't known or seen my post on the rb section, I listed their how it happened. I know I should of post it here instead, but I just thought that I wouldn't get that much feedback here, since I think that hardly any member comes by and read every little things. Crank my motor,and for some reason the motor got lock after it rotating 2 cycle. Then use a ratchet to rotate the pully clockwise and it wouldn't turn, but when I rotate counterclockwise it will turn to half of a cycle, and then get stuck again. So when counterclockwise is lock, clockwise rotates, then get stuck again. So decide to tear it down amd took off the camshaft and cam cover, then I notice how different the retainer is setting. Took off the oil pan and see how it rotate from underneath and looks like cylinder 2 and 5 cannot rotate a full round, and 1,3,4,6 can. Decide to remove the valve lock on the springs and the valve just drop into the piston. After removing the head this is what I found. Broken valve ontop of my piston Cylinder head Piston Looks like I will be needing another complete cylinder head, and a new piston. Now, just gotta source out these parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voltron_boi Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 June 17, 2010 I just bought a used piston from eBay for $30 ship. He still has 5 left with 6 connecting rods, if anyone is interested. I found a complete head that a shop is selling for 400 ship with warranty and was jw if that is a good price to buy. Now gonna need to disassemble the bad piston outter the short block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Sorry this happened to you ! Getting that piston out shouldn't be to hard you, just gotta drop the oil pan, unbolt it and push/tap it up! But you already know this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voltron_boi Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 Sorry this happened to you ! Getting that piston out shouldn't be to hard you, just gotta drop the oil pan, unbolt it and push/tap it up! But you already know this. Yeah, I can't belive this happend to me. But tough luck tho, it already happend so I'm have to deal with it. Removing the rod and piston shouldn't be a problem for me. The thing that I'm not sure about is, do I use the old rings from my piston or do I just use the new piston with the rings already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Pistons are graded. Check the top for size and be darn sure your replacement is the same size. It would be best to hone the cyl wall and use new rings, but next best would be to put old rings on replacement piston, since new rings will not seal in a non honed cyl. Just my opinion... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Pistons are graded. Check the top for size and be darn sure your replacement is the same size. It would be best to hone the cyl wall and use new rings, but next best would be to put old rings on replacement piston, since new rings will not seal in a non honed cyl. Just my opinion... Completely Agree ! You could pull all 6 and re-hone all cylinders and put new rings on all, and while your at that you could put new bearing on all too. It may or may not be more than your willing to do right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voltron_boi Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 June. 22, 2011 Today, I finally received my replacement piston that I bought from eBay. It looks to be the same, as the number on top of the piston are match up. I have decide to order new piston rings for all 6 piston, and was just wondering, since its going to be new rings, do I need to change the rod bearings also or can I just use what I have now. Another question, for the nissan when installing new piston rings, is their a pattern that the rings has to set? I'm not sure about Nissan, because this is my first time, but for the Honda it does. Picture below is a reference that I used when installing my Honda rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 June. 22, 2011 Today, I finally received my replacement piston that I bought from eBay. It looks to be the same, as the number on top of the piston are match up. I have decide to order new piston rings for all 6 piston, and was just wondering, since its going to be new rings, do I need to change the rod bearings also or can I just use what I have now. Not unless your bearings show wear / damage. Make sure to keep them exactly where they come from on each rod / journal. Another question, for the nissan when installing new piston rings, is their a pattern that the rings has to set? I'm not sure about Nissan, because this is my first time, but for the Honda it does. Picture below is a reference that I used when installing my Honda rings. Yes, they need to be spaced properly. Do you not have a pdf of the shop manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voltron_boi Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 No PDF at the moment, but I sure need to download one now. Thanks Rb26powered74zcar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 No PDF at the moment, but I sure need to download one now. Thanks Rb26powered74zcar. I have the RB FSM's in PDF format on my hard drive but don't know how to upload it.... Anyone know how to send, or post a pdf file? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neotech84 Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 04/25/2011 Hope you are not running with this setup yet, as your sway bar bushing stack-up is wrong. The tab should be BETWEEN the bushings!! Other than that great job! Keep the updates coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 So what's the status ? I would like to see this engine run cause I came across a rb26 TT manifold for cheap. So I'd like to see if its worth it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 if the motor hasnt been run for 2 years and you have it torn down that far i would check all the bearings for clearances (since you dont know the history of the motor) and reassemble everything with lube to prevent any damage on startup due to no oil on anything. i suspect they may have had a hand in my motor failure (not all but some) starting up and engine after 2 years of not running cant be good for it. i spun a bearing on the dyno after a couple runs under literally no boost. If you search google for rb25 FSM you will get lots of hits. Here is a good link for 4 of teh different manuals. they are big so its best to just download them. Make sure you follow all the steps in putting it back together. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/rb/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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