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HybridZ

78 Datsun 280z ------> 5.3 build


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Josey, since we've got the v-bands at the headers why not use them for the rest of the exhaust? I purchased them for mine-tired of the 3 bolts & gaskets...

 

Where did you buy your V bands dave? The ones I found were ~$50 per clamp (and ends) I guess I was being cheap. Believe it or not, I AM on a budget lol. :lol:

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Can you shoot me a photo of the fittings you used for the oil pressure sender? I considered this what you are suggesting, but I couldn't figure out how to de-conflict the vacuum line and the factory gauge sender (so big). It seemed like a lot of off-set fittings would be required. Send me a pic of how you did it.

 

I could do that for sure. Basically when i got my motor, the oil pressure sender was broken off, so it made it convenient to just drill it out, tap it for NPT, and then run a 45* bend to the sender. I was able to fit the autometer supplied sender (HUGE) and still had room.

 

Hey Josey, a picture of the mandrel bend builder kit would be cool when it arrives. 3 inch dual all the way back right?

 

Joe

 

Correct. I ordered from Columbia RIver Mandrel Bends I've used one of their kits before. Reasonably priced, and the quality is top notch. I'll be sure to post some pictures though.

Edited by SUNNY Z
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Here, purchased both [in ss] t-bolt clamps for the kids z intake as well as v-bands. Inexpensive and good quality!

 

Do these have the locator flange machined into them? I'm not sure if its worth the extra money (~$10), but that's what the headers have, and are supposed to be the best, and the easiest to install. I was also unsure if I wanted Stainless V band clamps for the rest of the exhaust, as I don't really have the capacity to weld SS (very well). I have a Miller MIG which CAN weld it - to Mild steel (rest of the exhaust) but its not always pretty, and can be a PITA.

 

Here is where I was looking at V Bands

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They do not have the locater flange/groove nor the o-ring. Also, the site link provided-their pricing includes both sides of v-band and clamp. For me I can do without the locater for less than half...

 

Do these have the locator flange machined into them? I'm not sure if its worth the extra money (~$10), but that's what the headers have, and are supposed to be the best, and the easiest to install. I was also unsure if I wanted Stainless V band clamps for the rest of the exhaust, as I don't really have the capacity to weld SS (very well). I have a Miller MIG which CAN weld it - to Mild steel (rest of the exhaust) but its not always pretty, and can be a PITA.

 

Here is where I was looking at V Bands

 

 

 

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They do not have the locater flange/groove nor the o-ring. Also, the site link provided-their pricing includes both sides of v-band and clamp. For me I can do without the locater for less than half...

 

I agree, that site is pricey. It is cool that you can buy parts of the assembly though. Also, to be clear, the one site is ~$40 for a SS 3" setup, while the other is ~$66, so not quite half price. I'm sure there is a quality difference, but $16/clamp? Let YOUR wallet decide.

 

And while we have the site with the silicone elbows mentioned, what size intake tube are most ppl running? I planned on ordering my intake setup from them as soon as I figured out what i wanted.

Edited by SUNNY Z
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I'm using the LS2 stock cold air intake combined with the JCI rubber and aluminum kit and it fits great. Go to my build thread "Mentor Wanted" to see pictures. I made my own flange to the radiator support, which took a LOT of trimming with a dremel tool. I really like the way the LS2 air tubing fits. I ruined one by cutting it too short, then bought another one off ebay for $20 and it fits great without modification. This is one of the sweetest parts of my build.

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I'm using the LS2 stock cold air intake combined with the JCI rubber and aluminum kit and it fits great. Go to my build thread "Mentor Wanted" to see pictures. I made my own flange to the radiator support, which took a LOT of trimming with a dremel tool. I really like the way the LS2 air tubing fits. I ruined one by cutting it too short, then bought another one off ebay for $20 and it fits great without modification. This is one of the sweetest parts of my build.

 

 

So, to summarize the v-band discussion, we should get stainess v-band kits, without o-rings and we can mig weld them to aluminized tubing or tig weld them to stainless??

 

(sorry I hit reply instead of edit to add the question).

Edited by RebekahsZ
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So, to summarize the v-band discussion, we should get stainess v-band kits, without o-rings and we can mig weld them to aluminized tubing or tig weld them to stainless??

 

(sorry I hit reply instead of edit to add the question).

 

Well, you could get stainless or mild really.

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Doesn't mild steel start surface rusting really quick (no experience here)? You are one of my many mentors, by the way...I've got a killer migraine, going out to wrap some engine harness wires instead of just laying in bed unable to sleep at 6am on a Saturday...

 

It definitely will if you don't coat it. I'll probably do stainless v band assemblies throughout .... fine i'll stop trying to be budget minded.... :lol:

 

Side note - opened up my t56 today, its worse than i thought. It needs about $500 in parts / upgrades, oh, AND a $500 cluster gear... FML

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Well I spent the afternoon, and the first quarter of the game at the shop. oops lol

 

Anyway, I took a picture from the side to give you an idea of the ground clearance. It is nothing short of excellent. The engine is held up by blocks because the tranny is out and I didn't want it to sag.

 

SDC10036.jpg

 

I also took a pic of the wiring

 

SDC10041-1.jpg

 

and the relay bracket

 

SDC10042.jpg

 

Took the trans apart at a friends, then brought the case back to powerwash/ clean and get it ready to put back together. I went ahead and assembled it so i can use it for mock up for the exhaust build.

 

SDC10043-1.jpg

 

ALSO took out the struts to prep them for the coilovers, new brakes, and removed the SPINDLE PINS (S30 guys know what i'm sayin)

 

I don't see what the big deal is?

 

SDC10037.jpg

 

this one came out. Its either been replaced, or is the best condition one on the planet.

 

The drivers side was not as cooperative.

 

SDC10040-1.jpg

 

Cut off the backing plates as i'm doing discs

 

SDC10044-1.jpg

 

And I was left with this big pile of CRAP. The struts were blown also

 

SDC10045.jpg

 

Thats it for today

Edited by SUNNY Z
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Not much to report. School has kept me way busy this week, and I'm going to Dallas for a club trip thursday-sunday, so this week is shot unless I get some stuff done tomorrow.

 

anyway, here are the bends and mufflers.

 

IMG_20120207_220042.jpg

 

I'm going to need more straight pipe, but I'll get that locally.

 

I've been seriously re-thinking my fuel system after seeing a custom fab'd tank on here, so I'll probably just fab up the exhaust to the mufflers and dump it until i figure out what's goin on in the rear. :lol:

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Well i got to spend some time at the shop today. Basically my Autokraft oil pan had to be changed because of no clearance for the drain plug. F-body pans are fine, and thats what i switched to. I also started changing over to poly bushings. HOLY PITA. It took me four hours to change oil pans, change rack and pinion bushings, change to poly motor mounts, and get everything lined back up. Of course this would have been considerably easier if i'd had an assistant to move the cherry picker down 1/2" or grab a socket. <_< <_< Hopefully I'll be able to steal some more time this week and turn the engine over. As soon as i know the wiring harness is a go, then its on to the coilovers. or the brakes. or the cooling system. or ???? Needless to say, plenty to do. :lol:

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I got really good at putting my motor in and out -better than sex actually (oops)! On my final install I was able to do it all by myself (maybe that is why it is better than sex) without chipping any paint. I've gone to poly motor mounts: the passenger side goes together easy-the driver side is a PITA. I'm really concerned about getting it back apart if needed to install the longtubes. I could never get the mount alignment right to the point that I could get the big long bolt to slide in easily. I finally sharpened the end to a tapered point and pounded away with my trusty hammer until it went in. Longtubes and pounding away-I've got to get my head out of the gutter-too much time in the garage late at night! With stock rubber motormounts, this was a lot easier. I read a lot of posts on LS1tech that said to keep the rubber trans mount as the poly trans mount transmits lots of vibrations.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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IT IS ALIIIIIVE!!!!!

 

Today was quite productive.

 

I went to my friend's house this morning, and we assembled my T56. He also has a press, so we were able to press out the spindle pin that i had to cut. It sounded like a .45 going off, but it came out. Afterwards, I sold some F-body parts (yawn) then got some advice from a friend of mine that does a ton of LSx swaps. Also picked up my RT diff mount pieces from the waterjet guy I know. Probably gonna try to get it welded up tomorrow.

 

I've decided I'm going to do a custom fuel tank, the same as alanbion(sp?). basically an awesome setup. The list goes on!

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GREAT.

 

The tokico Illumina shocks i ordered to complete my coilover setup are on national backorder - or thats the line i was fed by an ebay seller.

 

I ordered them the 4th, and they FINALLY had the courtesy to tell me they were backordered yesterday, AFTER i emailed them asking where my stuff was.

 

This is the SECOND company who has bent me over by not telling me they were out of a product, and selling it to me anyway! SO FRUSTRATING

 

 

 

On a side note, I was able to get the strut tubes prepped for sectioning ( perches removed, paint removed, etc), but the tubing cutter i bought was too small <_< , so thats as far as i got. (sorry no pics)

 

However, I did get my Ron Tyler diff mount done, which i had a friend waterjet cut for me. shout out to aknovaman

 

Tacked it while in the car

 

SDC10052.jpg

 

 

SDC10055.jpg

 

 

Idk why there was so much spatter, it was a MIG with gas. I think because the metal was so clean, more of it stuck

 

 

Also, the fuel system has been re-ordered, and should be here by the first of the week. Then it gets sent to the fab shop doing the tank, and it will be a week turnaround!

 

Baby steps

Edited by SUNNY Z
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UPDATE

 

Played hookie from work today (i work for KSU, so its completely cool). It was waaaay too nice out to pass on this day.

 

Here's a quick shot of the struts - yet to be sectioned

 

SDC10057.jpg

 

While i had the diff loose for the RT mount I decided to do some cleaning and painting.

 

Here's the Mustache bar (after cleaning and removal of those damn bushings!!!)

 

SDC10058.jpg

 

Diff (pre cleaning)

 

SDC10059.jpg

 

Here's what I coated it with. Duplicolor spray on bedliner. I LOVE this shet

 

SDC10060.jpg

 

Diff after paint

 

SDC10061.jpg

 

and the mustache bar re-installed with poly bushings, and those two other things coated. lol

 

SDC10062.jpg

Edited by SUNNY Z
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