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Swapping out the LT1/T56 for an LS1/T56 + turbo!


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I got some C6 manifolds on last night. The passenger side is about 1/8" from touching the strut tower. Do you guys think I should just notch the strut tower a little or massage it a little with a BFH? I don't know if beating a strut tower even a little will mess with my alignment or if notching it will ruin its strength? Either that or I need to find another manifold that works on that side.

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Well I found out that the C6 manifolds will work but I need to use 2 left side ones. The passenger side is pointed to the rear and the drivers side is pointed towards the front. So far so good!

 

80LT1:

 

Could have saved you MUCH grief by modifying the LT-1 to get 500+ HP and Torque from it in Naturally Aspirated Configuration. See AFR heads SBC Dyno Tests. Their heads are FAR superior to the GM cathedral port cylinder heads. GM finally went back to rectangular intake ports on the latest Gen V SBC in the Corvette and Camaro and upped the performance over the cathedral port heads. AFR already had Gen I and Gen II (LT1) heads with the latest Corvette/Camaro intake port configuration as I witnessed at SEMA in Las Vegas.

 

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"Could have saved you MUCH grief by modifying the LT-1 to get 500+ HP and Torque from it in Naturally Aspirated Configuration. See AFR heads SBC Dyno Tests. Their heads are FAR superior to the GM cathedral port cylinder heads. GM finally went back to rectangular intake ports on the latest Gen V SBC in the Corvette and Camaro and upped the performance over the cathedral port heads. AFR already had Gen I and Gen II (LT1) heads with the latest Corvette/Camaro intake port configuration as I witnessed at SEMA in Las Vegas."

 

I have no intrest in that POS LT1 engine anymore ;) . I couldn't stand replaceing that thing they call a distributor every summer due to the smallest amount of water getting even near it. I was bored with the power and maintance of keeping it running. I wanted more power and I wasn't about to spend another dime on that set up. Not only that I enjoy doing stuff like this. Its been way to long since I did something like this to my car and it was much needed! :D

 

 

 

I did get my TC78 turbo, JGS 50mm BOV, JGS 50mm wastegate, and E-boost 2 boost controller ordered! I should be able to finish up the hotside piping in the next week or 2!

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"Could have saved you MUCH grief by modifying the LT-1 to get 500+ HP and Torque from it in Naturally Aspirated Configuration. See AFR heads SBC Dyno Tests. Their heads are FAR superior to the GM cathedral port cylinder heads. GM finally went back to rectangular intake ports on the latest Gen V SBC in the Corvette and Camaro and upped the performance over the cathedral port heads. AFR already had Gen I and Gen II (LT1) heads with the latest Corvette/Camaro intake port configuration as I witnessed at SEMA in Las Vegas."

 

I have no intrest in that POS LT1 engine anymore ;) . I couldn't stand replaceing that thing they call a distributor every summer due to the smallest amount of water getting even near it. I was bored with the power and maintance of keeping it running. I wanted more power and I wasn't about to spend another dime on that set up. Not only that I enjoy doing stuff like this. Its been way to long since I did something like this to my car and it was much needed! :D

 

A properly maintained LT-1 with an appropriately made distributor and the right combination of the right components will be VERY reliable and LOTS of power. The Gen III and IV don't have much on the Gen I and II SBC V8s. Maybe somewhat better cooling but as far as Heads, Intake Manifolds, Camshaft and EFI there is VERY LITTLE technological difference.

 

 

I did get my TC78 turbo, JGS 50mm BOV, JGS 50mm wastegate, and E-boost 2 boost controller ordered! I should be able to finish up the hotside piping in the next week or 2!

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I think your info is incorrect but thats just my opinion. I'm done with this conversation. I hated the LT1 and its horrible aftermarket cost per HP. Its now where near what the LS engine is per dollar

 

The information is QUITE CORRECT. With a little research the proper components for a LT-1 can be found. Just to prove so, look at the Dyno runs on AFR cylinder heads sight. They learned from the latest Chevrolet Corvette cylinder heads tricks which DO NOT have cathedral intake ports. They have gone back to rectangular port heads and specific CNC machining to enhance swirl of the intake mixture. With the proper build bottom, top end and without a Turbo Charger 500+ HP and 500+ TQ is easily attainable. As said before, the MSD billet Opti Spark distributor takes care of the distributor problems on the LT-1. I know from personal experience, I had an LT-1 and it is still running fine with 100,00+ miles on it and still runs like NEW. I am building one of these 500+ HP/TQ GEN 1 SBCs right now and it EXCEEDS the specs of the Dyno'd ones on AFR Internet Site! Have learned a lot over the years of rebuilding engines! Ford is STILL trying to build engines that match GM (Push Rod) engines for HP TQ etc. They just have a LOT MORE parts in their engines which can fail. Much has been learned about swirl, tumble and quench in wedge type cylinder heads. I use all the latest affordable racing tricks available in building Small Block Chev (SBC) engines. Best horsepower and torque for the smallest package!

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The information is QUITE CORRECT. With a little research the proper components for a LT-1 can be found. Just to prove so, look at the Dyno runs on AFR cylinder heads sight. They learned from the latest Chevrolet Corvette cylinder heads tricks which DO NOT have cathedral intake ports. They have gone back to rectangular port heads and specific CNC machining to enhance swirl of the intake mixture. With the proper build bottom, top end and without a Turbo Charger 500+ HP and 500+ TQ is easily attainable. As said before, the MSD billet Opti Spark distributor takes care of the distributor problems on the LT-1. I know from personal experience, I had an LT-1 and it is still running fine with 100,00+ miles on it and still runs like NEW. I am building one of these 500+ HP/TQ GEN 1 SBCs right now and it EXCEEDS the specs of the Dyno'd ones on AFR Internet Site! Have learned a lot over the years of rebuilding engines! Ford is STILL trying to build engines that match GM (Push Rod) engines for HP TQ etc. They just have a LOT MORE parts in their engines which can fail. Much has been learned about swirl, tumble and quench in wedge type cylinder heads. I use all the latest affordable racing tricks available in building Small Block Chev (SBC) engines. Best horsepower and torque for the smallest package!

 

Oops, that should read 100,000+ miles. The only advantage the LSx has on the Gen I and II blocks is that FACTORY aluminum blocks are available in the used aftermarket. The cylinder head, camshaft and induction system are the REAL keys to making HP and TQ.

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rsicard, can we please keep this info on the LT1 out of my build thread? It really has nothing to do with what I'm doing. This is not a "should I stay LT1 or go LS1 + turbo" thread. Please start your own thread if you want to talk about how great the gen 1 and 2 engines are.

 

Thanks :P

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Yes I am. I'm going to run 3" pipe if I can. Looks like it will fit but its going to take some work to snake it through there.

 

Man that stinks. Thats the reason I'm going to build my own mounts when I go turbo, so I can snake a 4" DP through that same area.

 

Build is lookin good!

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  • 1 month later...

hey 80lt1, long time no speak. Looks like the car is coming along great! Congrats on the shop too I shot u a pm but im not sure if they have been goin thru correctly.. I wanted to ask you a few questions about your build & the 280zx in general. Do you know the demensions on the s130T/280zx turbo crossmember? Or from frame rail to frame rail? Do you have any pics of the empty engine bay? Is it removable, bolted in or welded? Besides the cross member how else it the original l28et mounted? i wanna swap in but drivetrain & its a pretty close match demension wise to the l28et. Could i torch the off old datsun mounts/perches & weld on my new mounts where i need them, replacing the original nissan mounts? Would it be smarter to use a aftermarket universal crossmember w/ similiar demensions?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi 80LT1 Your build is going great and keep up the good work. We talked years ago but I sure you don't remember. Anyway I also moved from the LT1 to the LS1 for many of the same reasons you did and I will end it there. My LS1 is still on the test stand I built last year but working on it. Next week my hardened stub axles are due to arrive so I'm working on the rear of the car. I could not get them from MM so I went to another vendor in CA.

 

You need to change your member title from 80LT1 to 80LS1 ;)

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Ya I need to change my name to 80LS1T :D

 

Build is coming along. I've been super busy at work and at my shop so not a whole lot of time to work on my own stuff. I have the piping for around the engine pretty much finished up. I have to check all the pipes for leaks before I send them out for coating though. I'm still hoping to get it on the road this summer but I do have a lot of stuff to do yet like wiring in the new motor....my favorite part :blink:

 

Not sure if you can see it in the pick but I swapped out the stock oil pan for a GM 19212593 kit. The pan sump is only maybe 1" below the front crossmember and it clears the rack and pinion fine now.

 

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My new radiator set up from Mishimoto. This set up was made for a 95-99 dodge Neon. Its perfect for where the outlets are and since I have to move my set up to the front of the core support this will fit perfect right there. I don't think cooling will be an issue but only time will tell. This is about .5" thinner than my last radiator but I never had any issues with that set up either. I am hoping with a cooler thermostat and the dual fans it will be ok. I know I've seen smaller ones on other high HP cars and they were ok so I'm pretty confident that it will be ok.

 

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