Opinions on my rust issue...

[rjstcroix]

Hey,

 

 

You're in CA right!? You can find so many quality Z cars that are nicely done, ready for the road for much less time effort and $$$ it will take you to put that thing into any sort of road worthiness.

 

Don't get into project car hell, save your friend the aggravation of trying to perform a miracle. So many Z's on the west coast for less than $5K that are immediately driveable.

 

RSC

 

edited: sp.

Edited November 28, 2010 by rjstcroix

[ryanfudger]

I like the car, so I think I'll see it through it's rusty phase.

[Kbhead]

I would suggest you get the car sand blasted before starting. This will help you determin how much of the panel that needs to be cut out and replaced. One of the keys elements to repairing rust is to cut it all out before replacing the panels. But I would seriously suggest taking an evening course on how to weld, practice there first. It is well worth it, and will help you understand what your trying to accomplish. It's not an impossible project, but it will take lots of time. Once done very rewarding. Then before you put it on the road, get it inspected!

 

Good Luck!

[bobbyc]

i can definately appreciate the passion for quality work, but plug welding two sheets of metal, no thicker than 16 gauge, isn't terribly difficult. i'd worry about someone trying to use flux core to weld it up, but anyone halfway competent should be able to handle floor pans.

[wolfalp1592]

From the early post it sounds like Ryan is not opting for finding a roller, having worked on a rust bucket for four years before deciding there really was too much rust. I would suggest the sandblast or have someone dip it to see the full extent of the rust. It looks like you need a donor car to me.

[pyrodude60]

I have a car in a similar situation and I haven't found any good shops that will do a significant amount of body work. Could you update us on how you fix it? I'm also in southern California btw.

[sticky280zx]

the reason body shops wont do it is because its a PITA and they have all kinds of EASY jobs that pay the bills so why deal with ya'lls rust buckets...thats when you have to do it yourself or find someone that will do it for you that has experience and cares about these cars. There are alot of "welders" out there but there are also alot of Half ass welders that "attmept" jobs theyve never done before hoping that it works out right, you need experience and you have to pay for that, i know a ton of body shops that will charge 2-3k for floor pans some include material while others want you to provide premade pans. I have done floors and rails for 1500-2k including all material for years and had a ton of happy customers, but i can promise you everyone of them thought "its still 1500, if i couldve found a rust free car for that i wouldve" or they kick themselves for buying the 4k "rusty runner" vs the 1500 "rust-free roller" but like ive said, i just fix the ploblems and sometimes people just dont have a choice depending on their location. There also are alot pf premade/repo stuff that is made that makes it easy, but someone that knows what theyre doing can still save you hundreds or more using sheet metal vs premade panels.

[sticky280zx]

double post

Edited December 4, 2010 by sticky280zx

[fyanrudger]

Just thought about this post while making my other one and figured I'd give an update.

 

I bought a mig, messed around with it for a little while to get decent, and started tackling the rust earlier this year myself (with some help of a couple of friends on the floors/rails). It took something like 25-30 different pieces of metal, but it is now 99.9% rust free. Kind of sucked in the moment, but not that bad when I look back on it...very happy I went through with the work and not just scrap it/buy another car as some suggested.

Edited December 14, 2014 by fyanrudger