Jump to content
HybridZ

'78 280z l28et Project Overview and Advice


Recommended Posts

Hello all,

 

My name is Bryce and I'm new to the Z scene and these forums (be gentle if I posted this in the wrong spot). I just picked up a '78 280z 4spd for 2k, pretty good shape with no rust at all. I intend to swap an l28et, and I'd like to get a little input on whether I'm going at this right. I've done quite a bit of reading on how much this will cost me (including Drax' very informative sticky), and I've located a running '81 zxt engine with a 90 day warranty for $400. I think I can do the swap myself with a little help and some moral support - I'm told that it would be best to rebuild the clutch while I've got everything out, and I have no idea what I should be looking for. What I'm seeing is everything from OE economy kits at $80 to racing kits at $400+. I'd like to keep cost down as much as possible, but I'd like this thing to eventually put out somewhere between 250-300 HP, so I need to be sure it will handle that adequately. Are there any common issues and or pitfalls at this point in the game that I should be aware of before I jump in headfirst? My ultimate goal for this car is for it to be a nice quick daily driver. Ideally Id like to get the swap in and running, then gradually make the rest of the modifications needed to reach the output I noted above.

 

-Bryce

post-14438-050959400 1293634591_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bryce,

 

From the one image you attached, the car looks very clean. Please post more pics if you can, we would like to see the rest of the car. If you research this site to death you will find everything you need. I am doing an RB25 swap and without hybrid it would not have been possible. As far as your clutch question, I have similar horse power goals and car purpose goals. I am going with the ACT HD clutch with organic disc. They cost around $300 with shipping. Hopefully you can get a similar quality product for less b/c your trans is US domestic.

 

Bonk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are the rest of the pictures I have at the moment. Mechanically the car is so-so. Drove it an hour and a half home with no major issues noticed aside from it dying if I use the turn signal (weird?), and the windshield wipers ceasing to function about halfway back. I suspect the wipers have something to do with linkage, because I could still hear the motor humming away, just no movement windshield - side. Struts are bad (of course), trans seems solid with the addition of some bushings, engine developed a knock once I got it home, but I'm not sure if it could be due to low oil/weak oil pump. It's only knocking in the cylinder at the front of the car. Knock goes away if I unplug the spark.

 

-Bryce

post-14438-027749200 1293643287_thumb.jpg

post-14438-084442100 1293643325_thumb.jpg

post-14438-049198000 1293643337_thumb.jpg

post-14438-069171800 1293643349_thumb.jpg

post-14438-048096500 1293643361_thumb.jpg

post-14438-011268900 1293643400_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Honestly a stock clutch will hold that power, but if you go any higher(which you probably will) you will probably want to upgrade.

 

You can get a stage 1 exedy clutch(full face organic) for about $300 and a stage 2(3 puck) for like $380.

 

You also might want to get you flywheel resurfaced and maybe lightened a few lbs.

 

Also post more pics of the car :2thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Bryce

I'm just getting started doing the turbo swap you are planning in my 76 280. My donor car hasn't run in ten years and I'm currently hung up by ignition problems with it. My 76 was running, until I pulled the engine and transmission this morning. Over the next few weeks I plan to work on cleaning up the 76's engine compartment while continuing the battle with getting the donor up and running. Like you, I want the donor running before I start the swap. Good luck and keep in touch, maybe we can give each other a push in the right direction occasionally.

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Bryce

I'm just getting started doing the turbo swap you are planning in my 76 280. My donor car hasn't run in ten years and I'm currently hung up by ignition problems with it. My 76 was running, until I pulled the engine and transmission this morning. Over the next few weeks I plan to work on cleaning up the 76's engine compartment while continuing the battle with getting the donor up and running. Like you, I want the donor running before I start the swap. Good luck and keep in touch, maybe we can give each other a push in the right direction occasionally.

Bob

 

The zxt engine I'm getting is out of the car but guaranteed to run, so we'll see what kind of kinks I run into (hopefully few). I'll start taking some more pictures once I get the engine delivered and start yanking the old L28 out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Honestly a stock clutch will hold that power, but if you go any higher(which you probably will) you will probably want to upgrade.

 

You can get a stage 1 exedy clutch(full face organic) for about $300 and a stage 2(3 puck) for like $380.

 

You also might want to get you flywheel resurfaced and maybe lightened a few lbs.

 

Also post more pics of the car :2thumbs:

B/S!

 

My stock 280zx turbo clutch slipped at 200 whp on the dyno. If I had to do over again I would just buy a performance clutch to begin with.

 

I went with the SPEC Stage 3+ a street clutch with reasonable clamping force, quiet, and supposidly holds 500whp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Getting a OEM ZX Turbo clutch should hold the power that engine should make. if it burns out quickly them I think there's some other issue. The 280ZXT is a heavier car so it stands to reason the ZXT clutch shouldn't have to work as hard in a lighter S30. It's your wallet, but I'd still go with the cheaper (not bargain basement) oem clutch/flywheel.

 

The Car looks pretty good. Is that the stock paint? If your engine only has a short warranty, then you should get it in and started ASAP. $400 is a great price, Does it include the ECU/wiring and parts like the AFM?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you like changes clutches? if so stay stock, if not buy one like the centerforce dual friction or exedy, both full face and the dual friction is still sprung so its verryyy dd friendly. also lets say the stock will hold the power...but for how long vs the better/expensive clutch....i like to only build my cars once, and clutch changes every year arent on my list of todo's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update:

 

I called the scrap yard to double check what came with the engine, per bumble zee's excellent Turbo Swap Guide list of required components. Here is what comes with, and I need to know if I should still go ahead and get it, or if I need to hold off and find one that comes with everything:

 

Engine

Turbo

Turbo Manifold

Downpipe

Injectors

Sensors are assumed to be present

 

Everything else (ECU, FI harness, ignition harness, airflow meter, FI relay), is missing per the scrap yard. Opionions? How easy is the rest of this stuff to come by?

 

-Bryce

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well as with any swap it's easiest to get all the parts from the same Donor, but in this case it's not available. You'll need to look around and see if you can find them. Alternatively you can go Megasquirt, or adapt a Z31 Turbo Harness ECU etc into it. There's nothing saying you have to stick with the L28ET stuff, it's just easier that way. Look around, Try EBay, craigslist or some of the forums. (Forsale/wanted on here is pretty handy)

 

PM me and I'll hook you up with my local Z dismantler, he might have that stuff.

 

Pharaohabq

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I know I haven't updated in a while - here's where we're at. The car blew the headgasket en route to a shop, so I've decided to keep her stock for now and just fix what I've already got. She's currently getting:

 

Headgasket

Timing Chain

Water Pump

Radiator

Heater Core

Struts (KYB all around)

New Center Console ($130.00 OEM NEW on eBay!)

Plugs/Wires

Cold Air Intake

 

One question I had - there seem to be a lot of suspension bushing kits floating around - is there any particular one that you guys might recommend? Most of this will be finished by the weekend. I'll take pictures once I get it back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...