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460ZGT Project Build

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Well then....seems Photobucket (my image hosting site) now wants $399 a year to allow me to use their storage and use them as a host for "3rd party hosting".  Neat.  So, now every forum I've ever posted on, my website, etc is all wiped clean of pictures.  Go F'yerselves Photobucket.  

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So I'm FINALLY making some progress again on the supercharger manifold.  Most of it's welded up now, I decided not to make it a 'direct mount', but rather to have an intermediate plate where the plate bolts to the top of the welded manifold, but then has studs that stick up to mount the supercharger to.  Pictures are somewhat self explanatory, the special drill bit is one I made on the lathe for doing injector bungs.  I tested it out in one piece of scrap aluminum and it promptly snapped the end off, and it was all dark black inside, instead of being shiny like I would have expected.  The only thing I can come up with is that it already coincidentally had a stress crack there that was internally corroded or there was a flaw in the steel or something?? Idk. Luckily the 0.540" part of the bit when resharpened drills very true, and smooth, so I should be able to just use it as a standalone drill bit and just cut the injector bungs in three steps instead of one.  Oh well, it was a nice idea.  








Edited by yellowoctupus
updating links to be reasonable

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Belt mounting basically done. Just gotta finish up my new SC pulley, and get the belt length so I can order a belt for this guy. 


In America, engine drive alternator.  In communist Russia, you mount alternator backwards and it drive engine!



Edited by yellowoctupus

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Oh, and for my own note, the belt (Continental/Goodyear PN 4080685) fitment is for the following vehicles: 


INTERNATIONAL 4400 2002-2005
INTERNATIONAL 4400LP 2002-2005
INTERNATIONAL 8500 2002-2005
KENWORTH 22-210 1989



O-ring setup took a bit longer to design than I wanted, but size restraints, thermal expansion concerns for such a long cooler tube etc. all added time in.  -126 & -123 o-rings will be used. 




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So cool!  The new HybridZ allows for pasting screenshots directly into posts!  No more indirect hosting for quick snapshots like these!


The top picture is of the intercooler end cap (grey) the red tube is part of the manifold, and the blue thing is the laminova core itself.  The bottom picture shows how I have to offset the water fitting because the tubes are so close to each other. 


And in case anyone's wondering, I'm using Autodesk's Fusion 360, which I highly recommend.  It's FREE, and a very powerful tool.  A lot of the free cad programs out there leave out features so you will purchase their full version, this one's all there.  Anything from Motion analysis, to 3D printing file generation.  Pretty cool. 





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8.8 IRS Time....


Most parts in this build are from a '94 Mark VIII parts car I dragged home and stripped a few years ago. I used the engine for my supercharger mockup and kept the rear subframe for this project.  The whole car was $300 (missing a transmission, no title) and I sold off about $800 worth of parts.  So, parts are basically free at this point.   You could probably get that whole subframe from a U-pull place for $200 I'd guess. They're relatively easy to pull, as long as none of the bolts that hold the subframe in are rusty or spin the nuts which are welded (blind of course) up in the unibody.  Bring a battery sawzall with you, that would be my advice.

  • Aluminum center section, 3.27 gears, open carrier.  28 spline - Mark VIII
  • Hubs - Mark VIII, redrilled for Z pattern from wonky 5x4.25 Mark VIII pattern

  • CV axle assembly, stock Mark VIII CV joints with custom length 300m axle shafts from the Driveshaft Shop. I was quoted $225 a piece (thankfully that's the only big $ item I had to buy, cause OUCH that's a lot of money for two pieces of metal...) I seriously considered making my own shafts out of 4340, but the strength would be way down (unless I also had them heat treated) and setup would be a pain, and I just don't have the time for a project like that right now. Crazy enough, they said they had the 15.75" shaft I needed IN STOCK.  He said they basically stock these shafts from 14-30" in 0.25" increments. I meant to ask if they were used for other cars as well.  I'm assuming they are, but it would be interesting to know.  

  • Struts - 2000 (1994-2004) Mustang Front Struts (they both have just over 6" travel, and are for a similar weight vehicle with a LOT of aftermarket options for coilovers, adjustable struts etc.) $35 shipped, eBay.  (79-94 are very similar, and would probably work fine.  2005+ would be a pain as they have an OEM coilover setup that would not fit in the Z strut towers)  The OEM struts I have have a body diameter of 2.015" (for coilover reference)

  • Springs - Stock Z

  • Top spring retainer, Z, redrilled to 5/8" for Mustang struts.

  • Brakes, Rotors- Mark VIII

  • Driveshaft - 1984-1996 (C4) Corvette Automatic. Aluminum, comes with 1310 joints. Shipped $39, eBay.

  • Differential Cover/Rear Diff Mount - Stock Z Mustache Bar, Dr.Z Fabrication cover. (link) $65 shipped DIY kit. (Dr Z's unrelated to Datsun stuff, he does off-road parts.) 

  • Bearing Housing, brake caliper mount "Knuckle" - Mark VIII 

  • Knuckle + strut/suspension pivot piece.  $50 in steel from local steel yard. (lots of work!) Would be about 500 times faster to make set #2 now that "I know what I'm doing". 

  • Front Differential Mount - tube steel, aluminum spacers and Jeep Cherokee sway bar bushings.  Jeeps have a 1" sway bar, the Z suspension is 25mm.  Close enough for now. 


Rear suspension coming out, about 2.5yrs ago.  Guess it took a while before I dove in, huh?



Stock picture from Dr.Z Fabrication's page.  I had clearance issues on the outer ring itself, but I was able to grind the plate back. Post welding I also had to flatten out the gasket face on the mill.  It would probably be worth just having them weld it up with all of the extra work I had to do to jig an mill it flat again. (Assuming they sent it to you properly flat, of course).









Pre and Post OP

image.png.5c32ab16305cd2070d2f24667d5c07cc.png    image.png.21769c1f35e768c3408a8e31f264f047.png



Oh, and on the offchance that someone is wondering if you could jam a Mark VIII hub bearings into the Z spindle, yeah, you can't do it.  All sorts of cavities and dimensions that will NOT play nice in the Z strut.  That would have been cool though, right?


Rockauto has the wheel bearings pictured below from $8 (generic) to about $25 for Timkens (OE), SKF $28.  






At 'full droop' the stock Z suspension has 3° positive camber.



The distance from the top of the strut (measured above the rubber isolator) to the lower pivot point is 31".  Although primitive, a wooden block set the height with a ratchet strap holding it tight worked well for the strut block positioning.







Differential Mounting picture.  I may have to reposition the front mount to above the differential as I think it might get in the way of the exhaust. 







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Determining CV axle length:


I made an adjustable length CV axle by removing about 5" from a stock shaft, sleeving it with a bicycle frame seat tube, then installed it as is, measuring the bottoming point as well as the 'roller flush' position at 5 suspension heights.  I measured the gap between the two shafts through the seat tube slot, and added it to the collapsed length to get the total length.  There's too much plunging action to get away with a 'roller flush' setup, so just like the OEM configuration, a certain amount of roller stick-out is allowed.  If anyone wants to use that shaft and the spreadsheet that goes along with it, just PM me.




Flush condition:




Gap recorded (see ratchet strap used to change suspension position.  No spring was on the strut, of course.):



Example of my spreadsheet.  It's got lots of 'hub angles' as the strut to hub plate has adjustable camber, which changes your axle length.  This makes sure the axle with ALWAYS work, at all suspension heights and max and min camber settings.  Additionally, I repeated my measurements on both sides (pass/dvrs) and found the diff mounting was off-center by a tiny amount, so that's also taken into account.  (Both sides still got the same length axles.) 




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Rollin' 4 lug style again (used the stock 240z wheel studs, drilled the welded up Mk8 hubs to 31/64", pressed them in with my vise):




Stock brake lines literally bolt right up, I did have to drill two holes on the pinch seam to mount them however.




Legit lathe work, 101.  Always mount your workpiece to a crappy 2x4 held on by tiny drywall screws.  Check. 




And a more 'finished' view of the upright with my mockup hub (aluminum spacers) bolted on for quick assembly/disassembly.




Edited by yellowoctupus

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Assembled uprights.  I'm running Viking 175# coils, and UPR Products 206-01 79-04 Pro Series Front Coil Over Kit.  I think the "Pro Series" may have been for a larger diameter strut body, oops.  I just made spacers and they work fine. 






Parts in the 'paint booth'. Keeps my fender from rusting so much.








And it's all in the car, good to go.  I had to remove the calipers to bleed them, unfortunately, but that's really not the end of the world.  If I tried to flip them side to side then the E-brake mount would have been in the way of the frame.  Small price to pay for glory, I guess.  The springs are much stiffer than the stock ones, but that's probably in part to the fact that the new 175s are stiffer than the stock 150# springs and that my stock springs were pretty whipped out which gave it a mushy rear end.  It feels like it's on rails now, even with the rear sway bar out (the mounts ripped out of the body about 2 months ago on me...)



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So, I had the car on the road for all of 1 day until I pulled it back in the garage and tore it apart again.  Just can't drive it ever, right?  Oh well.  


Gotta finish up that supercharger one of these days.  It's coming along, but it's a serious case of 15# of crap into a 5# bag.  Everything seems to interfere with everything else.  BUT  the hood closes, and I've got a solid 1/4" of clearance at all of the 'high points'.  Modeling clay works wonders for checking hood clearance.  Just like checking piston to valve or head clearances. 


Had to modify the dickens out of the throttle body which took a day or so of fiddling around, making new progressive links and brazing up all sorts of things.  Otherwise it wouldn't fit with my fuel rail.  Go figure.  I'm using a returnless rail out of an '06 E150, but I'm still going to run it return style.  That's an upcoming chapter.  





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Finally came up with a way to plumb those pesky laminova intercooler tubes.  The green is the intercooler tube itself (A much shorter CAD version just for easier visualization). Blue is the 'dummy' or 'return' end cap. Lots of the parts will be JB Welded together, hopefully it works well for this application.  Their technical information is vague at best.  I wish I knew what the optimum cylindrical gap fill was.  I think I'll do it at like 0.010" to give it enough room so it doesn't get pushed out when I put the parts together, but not so much of a gap that it wants to run out either. 




More updates to follow as I take more pictures.  The Ford coolant crossover tube assembly is on rev 3 or 4 now, I'm over it at this point. Starting to build parts from scratch. 


Fuel rail got flipped backwards, and I put a lot of heat to it to bend the two respective ends under the supercharger snout.  Came out well though. The rail's stainless, and now the fuel inlet line is conveniently on the passenger's side where I ran the lines years ago. I also plumbed in the return regulator over by the fender mounted filter. 


Edited by yellowoctupus

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Pic 1= Laminova cores JB Welded up, 90° fittings installed, special 'locking widget' installed (keeps intercooler cores from sliding in or out of the manifold.  Not that they would with the orings on, but it's a peace of mind thing.).  Oh, and Ford IAT sensor installed. Thankfully there was room there, cause that's the only place I could find to mount it.  Stock 94 Mark VIII sensor. 


Pic 2= Modifying intake manifold gaskets.  Yeah, so there's metal in the middle.  Had to 'trim' them with a dremel cutting wheel.  Took quite a while. 


Pic 3= Pressure/leak tested the individual cores.  Black line is air at 40psi.  No bubbles 😰







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