synthtk Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 On a side note... while I for sure detonated I also did find broken valve guides in my head that had similar damage to the quench pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 On a side note... while I for sure detonated I also did find broken valve guides in my head that had similar damage to the quench pads. Which was most likely caused by detonation.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synthtk Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Haha... yeah.. oh well gave me an excuse to finally build my RB30 Which was most likely caused by detonation.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 (edited) On a side note... while I for sure detonated I also did find broken valve guides in my head that had similar damage to the quench pads. Pictures of valve guides that are broken? Before I ask this Id like to make it clear that I dont know anything here about failures like this so this is purely curiosity. Did you happen to notice smoke on decel on the dyno or anything else other than the noise? I ask because Im having oil consumption issues I think are valve stem seals. Im getting ready to pull it apart and see whats up. I have not had any metal noises like that, but that is very interesting that the guides would break. Id expect bent valves first. The weird things that happen when things go wrong Im sure its all in harmonics when it comes to this stuff! Edited March 18, 2011 by rayaapp2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26240Z Posted March 19, 2011 Author Share Posted March 19, 2011 No. Didn't smoke or anything unusual besides the noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synthtk Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 I don't have any pics of the broken guides, I discovered it right as I was about to take it to a machine shop and forgot to snap a pic. One of these days I will get the pictures of the damage to the quench pads and my piston though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26240Z Posted November 19, 2011 Author Share Posted November 19, 2011 (edited) Looked at the turbo closely and found this. Blade tips broken on the Turbos(GT4088R) exhaust side. The turbo is brand new, only ran 30 minutes on the Dyno, no more than 5.5-6k rpm. Any input would be appreciated. I would like to figure out why the tips broke and ended up in the piston tops and the quench pad area, before fixing the turbos. Edited November 19, 2011 by RB26240Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 Looked at the turbo closely and found this. Blade tips broken on the Turbos(GT4088R) exhaust side. The turbo is brand new, only ran 30 minutes on the Dyno, no more than 5.5-6k rpm. Any input would be appreciated. I would like to figure out why the tips broke and ended up in the piston tops and the quench pad area, before fixing the turbos. I think you have which way the exhaust gas is flowing, backwards there. What likely caused the wheel tip damage was done by detonation, and as the detonation pieces were leaving the engine, through the turbine housing..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 I think you have which way the exhaust gas is flowing, backwards there. What likely caused the wheel tip damage was done by detonation, and as the detonation pieces were leaving the engine, through the turbine housing..... indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Just saw this - but I have a question. You said in the first post this was during the "first run". Did your tooner,(or tuner), spend quite a bit of time making sure all the maps/injectors/etc.. were correct and did some light throttle runs to see if it was all correct? I ask b/c I know some tooners put the car on the dyno and the very first thing they do is a full throttle run. That is a sign you need to walk away from that tooner. They are not a tuner. If that is the case - it very likely was detonation and that is unfortunate. If your tuner spent some time getting the maps/etc.. all correct first and was doing a light throttle/first check on the power enrichment,(>70-80% throttle usually), then it could be a mechanical failure or a very unfortunate early detonation failure. Just something to put out there for others who may look at various tuners/tooners. Its a way to figure out if they are at least taking the correct approach - but doesn't guarantee they are doing it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Knock control.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Just saw this - but I have a question. You said in the first post this was during the "first run". Did your tooner,(or tuner), spend quite a bit of time making sure all the maps/injectors/etc.. were correct and did some light throttle runs to see if it was all correct? I ask b/c I know some tooners put the car on the dyno and the very first thing they do is a full throttle run. That is a sign you need to walk away from that tooner. They are not a tuner. If that is the case - it very likely was detonation and that is unfortunate. If your tuner spent some time getting the maps/etc.. all correct first and was doing a light throttle/first check on the power enrichment,(>70-80% throttle usually), then it could be a mechanical failure or a very unfortunate early detonation failure. Just something to put out there for others who may look at various tuners/tooners. Its a way to figure out if they are at least taking the correct approach - but doesn't guarantee they are doing it right. I agree with Bob, but just to be fair, this also depends on what the tuner was told was expected of him. With only 30 miles on the new turbo, I don't see how this could have been a very mature calibration, but did the tuner know that? When I show up for a set of dyno pulls, I'm there to benchmark a new configuration and I've already done a ton of very thorough instrumented street tuning. I'm only there to tweak for best performance and understand the effects of any configuration changes. In this circumstance I'd expect to do a trial run to make sure everything is ready to go, but then I pretty much go straight to WOT pulls. Communication is key - If you showed up at a shop with a raw tune and told the operator this and made it clear that you wanted him to do a full tune then this should have warranted extreme caution and Bob is dead on. However if you just showed up and gave the operator the impression that you just wanted some "power pulls", then I don't think I'd blame him for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26240Z Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Thanks for the replies. The Haltech came with a base tune, that I was able to start the car, only ran it for about a 2-3 minutes and then towed it to the tooner/tuner (in this case maybe tooner). I did tell him that I needed a full tune. He is a Haltech certified tuner, so checking everyhing before a WOT pull should have been routine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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