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Wiring help please...


5.0L240z

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I'm trying to eliminate as much of the engine wiring harnes as posable! I have an early 260z. I need to know if I need any of this stuff, or can I cut it out? transistor igniter,

inhibitor switch, fusible link box, kickdown solenoid, EGR solenoid, throttle opener solenoid, thermal transmitter, egr relay? what is shunt, and stopper motor? Please help! My engine wiring harness is driving me nuts! I don't want to go crazy with a set of dikes, before I know for sure what i need. I wil be running a one wire internal regulator alternator for simplisity. And it will have a t5 tranny.

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Yeah, we're a worthless bunch. Keep in mind many people here are quite busy. Don't expect everyone to drop what they're doing and answer all your questions the moment you ask them. Have some patience.

 

Do you have a service manual and wiring schematic?

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Buy the Jags That Run (JTR) 240Z V8 swap manual. The JTR manual explains the v8 swap including electrical wiring details. The swap is fairly simple, but it requires attention to some details that are covered in the JTR manual. Also get the Haynes and Chilton 240Z manuals as they both have schematics in them that you will need to complete the V8 swap. A number of Z clubs have posted electrical schematics for the S30 series so you can do a search for those as well.

 

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/

Edited by Miles
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Im not disapointed with the people on this site at all! The people are great with great attitudes!!! I have the jtr manual and a factory wiring diagram, but I still need to talk to someone about it. The jtr manual has got some good info on wiring but it dose not go into detail about what is needed and not needed in the main engine wiring harness of a early 260z. I'm trying to eliminate as much of the engine wiring harness as posable! Thanks for the help!!!

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Basically you need to:

 

 

- Determine what wires the engine/transmission combination you are installing requires: ignition, tach, oil pressure, water temp, alternator, starter, wires for automatic trans function etc.

 

- Before removing any wires tag and number each wire in the engine bay. Write color code, tag number and function in a note book.

 

- If you are not sure of the function test the wire in question with a volt meter while turning the ignition off, on and start position. Check the schematic. Note function.

 

- Disconnect the wires from the engine and carefully pull the wiring harness over to the passenger fender.

 

- Unwrap the harness.

 

- Separate the engine wires you tagged from the rest of the harness. What wires you use depends on the type of engine etc you install.

 

- Draw a schematic or make a list showing what wires (with tag numbers) you are going to use.

 

- Don't cut any of the wires until you have figured out how you want to route them in the engine bay.

 

- When everything checks out, and the wires are attached to where you want them, re-wrap the wiring harnesses you took apart.

 

 

Just take one wire at a time and understand its' function vs what your install requires.

Edited by Miles
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Now that's some solid info!!! I hope by me asking this question that it answered the same question for other who are doing the same swap as I am. Please if anyone else has anymore info on the question asked above, please post what you have to say. Thanks alot guys!!!!

Edited by 5.0L240z
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I have a 5.0 in my 240, why did you choose the 260Z, it's the worse for wiring but it can be done. The 260 has a much more complex wiring than the 240.

I would say that since you are smog exempt, why worry about all the emissions wiring in the harness, all you really need is to first get your needed hookups such as alt, starter, ignition and lighting wiring identified. There are some tricks to changing over the wiring to mate to Ford requirements.

I used a Nissan Titan alternator, made my wiring much easier.

Good luck, anything I can help you with let me know here or at izulatr4@hotmail.com....

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I chose the 260z because I was able to buy it for 400 bucks running and driving with absolutely no rust at all!!! Im not sure why the 260z would be worse then a 280z to swap a v8 into. There's a ton more wiring in the 280z then the 260z!

Edited by 5.0L240z
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You are correct, sometimes guys also swap out the wiring harness for a simple 240 harness, plus remembering that the 280's had a ecu, most guys swapping out to

modern day v8's such as the LS1 or 2, are also using the ecu for what they are running, is your 260 swap carbed of efi? It's just a matter of finding the wires on the schematic and identifying them as to what goes where...ultimately thats it in a nutshell.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I chose the 260z because I was able to buy it for 400 bucks running and driving with absolutely no rust at all!!! Im not why the 260z would be worse then a 280z to swap a v8 into. There's a ton more wiring in the 280z then the 260z!

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if you are using ford 5.0 efi if you can afford it get the ford book called evtm for the car/engine that you have.that will make it very simple to wire up the ford efi.the oem efi harness will have some extra connectors on it you wont need .study the book for 3 hours -the it will only take an hour to dothe harness.on the 260 harness-if you separate the wires and tag them with masking tape you will find which wires you can eliminate.on my 280 i eliminated the fusable links and ran a #8 wire fron the alternator output direct to the battery.there are a lot of voltage drops in z wiring

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