LSx s30 Longtube group buy thread

[1 tuff z]

Keith, the Z Rags was referring to was not his but another z [not a member here] whose z was flooded but is running now. That z has custom long tubes [one off] and exhaust to match. Reason I suggested Blake is I believe he ordered extra tubes and flanges speculating he'd build more than the 20 pair for our group buy. Perhaps he'd be willing to sell the unassembled header components-assuming he purchased them as I suspect...

[RebekahsZ]

Oh, cool. My bad. Merry Christmas to All!

[Dans toy]

Good suggestion, I will add to that if you don't mind. The LS sandersons are available in 1 3/4 and for those of us that are not running big cams the HP payoff is minimal. I did as "RebekahsZ" suggested, welded in a Vband in place of the 3 bolt collecter. It worked great and is very user friendly. Good luck and Merry Christmas.

[RebekahsZ]

PM me any pictures you have of that-no need for me to reinvent the wheel!

[Dans toy]

I've been asked several times about pictures of my build. The Apple computer I have makes it difficult to share pictures, in part because I'm not so good at it. I'll see what I can do with my daughters help over the holidays. The Vband definitely made it easier to deal with.

[Savage42]

Are there really more LSx powered 240SXs out there than Z cars?  http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/2838/hooker--ls-engine-swap-headers-and-mount-kit-for-nissan-240sx.aspx

[Mikelly]

That's VERY interesting.  Thing to remember, and I can def. confirm this since I have one of each in my shop, side by side, but the engine bay of the 240SX is WIDER than the Zcar's.  You have more space to work with.  It's shorter, but that isn't much of an issue.  Gives me an idea for our 240SX.  If I decide to go with the LS376, we could install the LS1 in the 240sx...

 

Mike

[78 LS2 Z]

Hi Guys, I am going to attempt this dreaded header install over the New year holiday, is it really necessary to remove the left motor mount to notch it for the required clearance? My original instructions did not state that removal is required (these stated only to use a grinder), but the updated instructions from 1 Tuff Z state the mount must be removed? It looks like an angle grinder might work OK for the notch; I am assuming this is more for safety reasons than an actual requirement....Trying to save some time but not at the expense of safety and common sense. Has anyone attempted this without removing the mount? Any input would be appreciated.  Thanks!  -Will

[rags]

I didn't take the mount out when I did my install. Just hit it with a Sawzall from under the car. The 240 chassis and 280 chassis are different animals. Where 1TuffZ had problems with his 240, I had no issues when installing in a 280. I did have to remove the bolt that holds the motor isolator to the Johns Cars mount and jack up the drivers side of the engine a good 2-3 inches to get the header to slip in . Once the engine was lifted, the header went right in. No issues at all on the pass side. Dropped right in over there

 

Joe

[78 LS2 Z]

I didn't take the mount out when I did my install. Just hit it with a Sawzall from under the car. The 240 chassis and 280 chassis are different animals. Where 1TuffZ had problems with his 240, I had no issues when installing in a 280. I did have to remove the bolt that holds the motor isolator to the Johns Cars mount and jack up the drivers side of the engine a good 2-3 inches to get the header to slip in . Once the engine was lifted, the header went right in. No issues at all on the pass side. Dropped right in over there

 

Joe

Great news...I don't see any fitament issues either and it doesn't look like any trimming of the strut rod threads will be needed either but

I have the Techno Toy adjustable rod that has very little exposed threads (just enough, actually)- On my 78 the header almost drops in without notching when I removed the motor mount/isolator bolt and jacked the motor up for some trial fitting.  Thanks for the quick reply Joe, can't wait to get these babies in and get to the exhaust shop!

[78 LS2 Z]

Started the install around noon today and was finished by 4:30; no issues and interestingly enough I didn't even need to raise the motor to get the driver's side header in, slipped right in no problem. I didn't have my booster/ M/C installed so things went a little quicker for me. I also did not need to notch the T/C rod housing on the passenger side but I am within 1/16" of touching and will probably remove the header and take a die grinder to the lip tomorrow since I feel it's a bit too close. Overall not too bad of an install at all, much easier than I thought this was going to be. I'll see about posting a few pics.  -Will

[EvilC]

Will, did you have to change to the LS2 starter or do you have a LS2 installed?

[78 LS2 Z]

Will, did you have to change to the LS2 starter or do you have a LS2 installed?

My engine is an LS2 so I didn't have to change the starter. I actually thought the passenger side was the tougher side to install and did require some assistance holding the header while I re-installed the starter. The only reason this took me as long as it did was getting the car on jackstands to notch the motor mount from below. Turns out I didn't have enough room from below with either a grinder or the sawzall (a lift would have been nice) and lowered the car back down and hit it with the sawzall from the top, very easy after I started the cut with a hack saw to guide the sawzall. Notching the mount and getting the header in took all of 15 minutes. I had the front end pretty low on the coilovers (so much that I almost couln't get a jack under the front cross member) -- not sure if this aided slipping the header in or not without raising the engine. I notched the mount per the prescribed 3 1/4", but in reality didn't need more than 1 1/2" of notching. I'm very happy with the headers and don't foresee any exhaust routing or ground clearance issues and the collectors look to be well placed, at least for my 78.

[Boy from Oz]

Have just taken my LS1 out and placed it in the cradle. I've attached MY headers to show an image some may not have seen before. I think your passenger side (my driver's side) is very similar and there is probably not much difference on the other side.

 

 

 

[78 LS2 Z]

Have just taken my LS1 out and placed it in the cradle. I've attached MY headers to show an image some may not have seen before. I think your passenger side (my driver's side) is very similar and there is probably not much difference on the other side.

 

 

Edited April 3, 2013 by 78 LS2 Z

[78 LS2 Z]

No attachment? What does the image depict???

[wfritts911]

Have just taken my LS1 out and placed it in the cradle. I've attached MY headers to show an image some may not have seen before. I think your passenger side (my driver's side) is very similar and there is probably not much difference on the other side.

 

 

 

 

Maybe it's just the angle, but your motor must sit really far forwards for that driver's(American) side header to fit. It looks like it curves back at least a couple inches behind the end of the block.

 

-Will

[Boy from Oz]

Maybe it's just the angle, but your motor must sit really far forwards for that driver's(American) side header to fit. It looks like it curves back at least a couple inches behind the end of the block.

 

-Will

No, not a problem (see image).

 

I'm using the JCI mount. The odd shape was to ensure the primaries were all the same length, or as close to as possible. Also, my brake booster and clutch m/c are on the other side.

 

[RebekahsZ]

Australian headers are always different due to opposite direction swirl vortexes encountered in the Southern Hemisphere.

Edited April 4, 2013 by RebekahsZ

[skully]

+1