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Building my 3.0 L soon - pics


inline6

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Comp oil pan from Design Products has come in.

 

post-4218-023816300 1343187759_thumb.jpg

 

post-4218-055114300 1343187779_thumb.jpg

 

post-4218-044523600 1343187789_thumb.jpg

 

Also, the pistons were modified in yet another round as the PTV wasn't sufficient on mock-up. The note from Bryan was:

"After cutting the valve pockets deeper; the pocket edges were radiused with 100 and 120 grit cartridge rolls. I then re-polished the whole dish area with the 120 grit rolls.

After this the pistons were masked with duct tape except for the tops and then the tops glass beaded at very low pressure. Then the tops were soda blasted."

 

post-4218-038385600 1343187799_thumb.jpg

 

Looking sweet, I must say :lol:

 

It's crunch time now... I go to pick up the motor on Sunday. Looking forward to it.

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That's a nice looking oil pan there. I like the windage baffles. I have a question for you about the pistons. Can you tell me what your final valve pocket depth ended up being? I am having some custom pistons made right now and I want to compare numbers, maybe I can save myself from having to depen the pockets like your machinist did. It's funny how similar your engine setup is to mine, my head is way cut down, and our cams are very close too.

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I have a question for you about the pistons. Can you tell me what your final valve pocket depth ended up being? I am having some custom pistons made right now and I want to compare numbers, maybe I can save myself from having to depen the pockets like your machinist did. It's funny how similar your engine setup is to mine, my head is way cut down, and our cams are very close too.

 

I looked back through emails going back and forth with him... The aluminum slug we started with -- the dish was .148 deep. If memory serves correctly, JE pretty much ignored that dimension and we decided to cut the dishes further ourselves after we had them in hand from JE. Then, we had to cut the intake another .065 (probably at the angle the of the valve) and another .038 on the exhaust. So, that is going to be ballpark. But, obviously, you'll want to measure your engine to account for your unique situation.

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Nice build so far. I have an almost identical oil pan, so far I have put 8.3 Litres into it and oil level is still under the low mark. Do you know the recommended oil capacity?

That's a heck of a lot of oil!! How long do you have to warm up this engine for?

PS Keep filling it until its full, pull the sump plug and measure how much oil is in the bucket!

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This is a very interesting build with a lot of work being done. Well done mate. A quick question, did you consider using ARP main studs on this engine or did I miss that bit?

 

I considered them, but I recall my machinist being surprised by how low the torque setting was on them... and he didn't feel the ARP would provide any improvement. So, we reused the stock main bolts. He said that when he final torqued them, there was no stretch. No stretch translates to no need to replace for the most part... unless you want to get crazy and think about how much wear they had from being installed and removed several times during mock-up/pre-assembly. Evidently, he can easily detect stretch when torquing typical "stretch" bolts to spec.

 

If I recall correctly, they are only like 40 lb-ft. or is it ft-lb? :huh:

Edited by inline6
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Nice build so far. I have an almost identical oil pan, so far I have put 8.3 Litres into it and oil level is still under the low mark. Do you know the recommended oil capacity?

 

I thought it was 8 quarts, but you already have more in it than that! :lol:

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So, the rods in this motor are Toyota 3SGTE (89 and later Celica All-trac, 91-97 MR2 Turbo) with 3/8" ARP 2000 Bolts. Haven't mentioned this fact yet: The rod bearings are those of a Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE 2.5 V6... they are narrower than the 4 cyl rod big ends. They are centered as in this pic (not my motor):

 

post-4218-076992100 1343874801_thumb.jpg

 

Less friction supposedly frees up power - I wonder if it is more than 1 hp! ;)

 

Both mains and rods are Clevite 77 with Calico coatings.

 

Orig Post containing the pic above:

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100748-rod-bearing-question/page__p__944414__fromsearch__1#entry944414

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks really nice.

 

I finally have mine back together (2.9L w/ t3/t4 turbo) but it was a huge deal to find anyone to work on these things in our area. Working on suspension and getting the interior back together at this point.

 

Who are you using for your machine shop?

Edited by rwdawg2
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Looks really nice.

 

Who are you using for your machine shop?

 

Thanks. When I started this project about two years ago, I was living in VA. I took a couple of attempts to find someone good - both recommendations came from folks on HybridZ. The guy that built it is out of Martinsville, VA - so not in this area.

 

He's done lots of work on NASCAR engines and picked up this project on the side because work had dropped off at his employer.

 

I hear there is a place around here though. Near Kinetic SunBelt from what I understand. Can't find them on Google though...

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  • 2 months later...

Yeah, it has gone quiet. I've been working on the exhaust for a while now. The Nissan Motorsports header that I bought (1.75" primaries) hit the driver's floor. Evidently, that is a common problem with it. To fix that, I ended up cutting off the collector and using some 1.75" mandrel bent pipe to change the direction a bit. I also shortened these three pipes as they were about an inch longer than the other three.

Header mods:
post-4218-092302100 1351046373_thumb.jpg

Merge collector:
post-4218-040676000 1351046962_thumb.jpg

3" stainless pipe:
post-4218-033530000 1351046992_thumb.jpg

Fitting the exhaust:
post-4218-015696900 1351046391_thumb.jpg

post-4218-094682000 1351046419_thumb.jpg

post-4218-069817200 1351046437_thumb.jpg


I hope to finish up the exhaust this weekend. Then it's just a matter of last minute checks before the first fire up...

Edited by inline6
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  • 3 months later...

It runs!

 

Got it started yesterday.  Doesn't idle without the throttle screws set to push the throttle plates open a bit.  Not sure what is going on yet. I set the ignition timing at about 17* as with the previous engine.  For now, I am using the same "Euro" distributor in combination with a Crane Hi-6 ignition - optical sensor replaces the points.  Have tried 55 pilots and 60 pilots thus far and engine doesn't seem to respond to screwing pilot screws in or out with either one... just doesn't idle and makes the whole garage stink, and my clothes stink.   :hs:  

 

Seems crazy rich.  Anyway, here is a short video.  Throttle response is nice.  The whining coming from the engine is noteworthy.  I'm not sure if that is normal with the Kameari timing chain tension set-up, but my guess it that it is.  I could have the tension too tight... not really sure.  The instructions had some crazy number that didn't make sense.

 

 

 

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