Dassan80z Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 (edited) Ok, so on an impulse buy I snatched up a of Hooker Super Comp header for cheap. Plan to get it powder or heat coated, and port matching it before putting it on the car. The guy had it on a 78 280z L28 N/A, He told me it should work just fine on my 80 280zx, but I might have to notch the driver side motor mount to clear one pipe. Wondering if anybody out there has been this route and might offer some advice? Also, should I got ahead and buy the motorsport auto gasket, stud and nut kit, and will I need the spacers? I think I remember him saying something about that. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PEC05 -Rich Edited April 5, 2011 by Dassan80z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 If you have the power steering box I would be more concerned with that. Also make sure that the ports are the same, like don't put a set of round port headers onto a square port head. Not sure if you modified your engine or not but you might want to check the head stamp. I would get the stud kit since you might as well put in new studs and make it look nice while your removing the intake/exhaust. As for gasket, get one that matches to your head, not the header. Lastly I don't see a O2 sensor bung, if you're running stock ECU that might create a little bit of a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dassan80z Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 If you have the power steering box I would be more concerned with that. Also make sure that the ports are the same, like don't put a set of round port headers onto a square port head. Not sure if you modified your engine or not but you might want to check the head stamp. I would get the stud kit since you might as well put in new studs and make it look nice while your removing the intake/exhaust. As for gasket, get one that matches to your head, not the header. Lastly I don't see a O2 sensor bung, if you're running stock ECU that might create a little bit of a problem. They are square port headers. Just kind of out of square. Hence I will be port matching them the best I can. It's the original 80 motor, I just rebuilt it .020 over. It's not a rack n pinion, just a drag link setup. I am running the stock ECU, but the 02 is non existing. There is an EGR bung I believe on the header that has been welded up. So not sure whether to tap it, or delete the egr. (suggestions) The only issue I get with the 02 eliminated is the occasional funky start up. It clears and runs great after 5 seconds or so. I will take your advice on the stud kit, but what about the spacers? So a "stock" intake/exhaust gasket should work? Thanks -Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dassan80z Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) N42 block N47 head. I did some rough measurements and it looks like the header should clear the steering gear box by an inch or so, and the mount by 1/2 inch i hope. If not I will have to notch it, unless there are low profile motor mounts available. -Rich I did some research and just need somebody to help confirm this. My cylinder head is a N47, and from what I have collected, it has diamond (round) exhaust ports. So I am thinking this header will not work, it is square port. resources. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/ http://www.xenonz31.com/s130/Heads.html Edited April 6, 2011 by Dassan80z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLENN280ZX Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Tried this a few years ago..I was trying to use the NISAMO headers..the drop tube on the #3 cylinder is going to be your problem. It will hit square on top of the input shaft..if you have rack and pinion, or if you have the recirculating ball(box mounted to the frame), the header will hit the tie rod and drag link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLENN280ZX Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Forgot to add that I tried with power and manual racks and boxes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dassan80z Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 (edited) Ok, what if I was to get a custom flange made for the head, and have a slight amount (say 1/2") chopped off and have it re-welded to the new flange? Would this give enough clearance, or is it not worth the effort. There is a fab shop right up the road that has built all kinds of stuff for me. I don't think it would be a problem for them. Or is anybody interested in buying this thing? Edited April 6, 2011 by Dassan80z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 For that amount of trouble, unless you get some decent discounts from that shop, I would just sell it and look for the msa 6-2 headers. They are supposed to fit. What size is are the collectors and the Y pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dassan80z Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 They quoted me about $100 and said it would take a day or 2. I'm probably just going to sell it for what I paid. $150 Its 2 3/4" collector and Y-pipe. ID Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Depending on the clearance, maybe you could "massage" it to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dassan80z Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 I think I'm just going to trade it with cash for the correct header, or something else "Z" related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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