djz Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 I managed to buy a set of 2nd hand Sard 720cc injectors for $450 with an RB fuel rail. I'll be putting the RX7 ones back on Trademe as is I think. If anybody here is interested in them let me know, two of them are probably dead but might come right with a clean. Wheels are 2 - 3 weeks away from being finished, I've gone with 10" wide, the 5" bands just weren't going to work. Mate bought a tig welder so I've been playing with that a bit, I've welded some brackets onto the intercooler for the oil cooler mount, I think I'm going to mount the power steering cooler off to one side behind the front bumper. I went to put the bumper on yesterday and found that the mounts have nearly broken off it so my mate is giving me a fibreglass repair kit and I'll put some strips of aluminium in there to try and strengthen it up a bit, running over my bumper if they broke off would make me pretty angry. Drilled the two radius rod mount bolt holes in the control arm with a right angle drill, I'm going to get some cap screws to mount them with as the bolt heads are just a bit too big to get a socket on nicely. New injectors are in, car starts and runs which is good. Power steering reservoir mounted, you can see the blow off valve in there too Front brakes on Oil cooler mounting tabs Oil cooler mounted - top only so far Trying to fix the broken front bumper mounts with some aluminium with fibreglass over it, we'll see if it holds together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 Gearbox out and back in today to try and fix an oil leak, thought it was the rear main seal, looks like it was actually leaking out of the bolts that hold the sump onto the rear main seal holder, two of them needed to be shorter than the rest which I didn't realise, hopefully it's all good now. Also removed the filler bung from the gearbox which I forgot to do before I put it in, when I tried to get it out with the box in the car it was impossible. We ended up rooting it so I'll have to have a dig around at home and see if I can find a spare. Gavin got the new bands for my wheels on Friday so hopefully I'll get them back before this coming Friday. I got some aluminium pipe to make a reasonable size vacuum canister out of, should have that finished tomorrow. This will make the vacuum signal more stable. Bought a fuel pressure gauge to see what was going on with the adjustable regulator, it was turned up about .5 bar higher than factory so I wound it back down. Have been thinking about getting adjustable cam gears and a turbo beanie before it goes on the dyno but I don't think I'll have time to put the cam gears on, I've got quite a list of things I need to finish off before Saturday. Mate drilled the downpipe and welded on O2 sensor bung on for me while I was mucking around with the gearbox. Outside for a little bit while we swapped the cars around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 Gauge install, they aren't quite straight I know, I'll straighten them up once I've got them set up fully as I still need to put the clear plastic part in front of the gauges and the front part of the surround. Sorry about how crumpled it is, I think one of the cats was sitting on it in my car! I like how the power is still going up at 8000rpm bit of a speed difference compared to the old motor, looking at the old dyno charts it was only doing 160Km/h at the red line in 4th with the L28 & 3.7:1 diff, looks like it's doing 232Km/h now! I'll have to dig out the last dyno chart that I had done with the L28 & 3.9:1 diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 Picked the car up today, told it had 3 problems that needed to be sorted out before tuning it again: 1 - The clutch is slipping 2 - There is at least one exhaust leak, maybe more 3 - The boost is creeping, wastegate spring pressure was 8psi and it was creeping up to around 14psi at 8000rpm. The clutch I was expecting to slip sooner or later, turns out it was sooner. The exhaust did sound like it was leaking from somewhere but I couldn't pin point it, it may be the v band on the back of the turbo, it was a pain to get it sealing up but I thought I'd got it but we did knock the exhaust a bit trying to get the car on the trailer. The boost creeping is a bit of a pain, I'll have to take the manifold off again and look at running some bigger pipe to the wastegate. But, the car made 361rwhp @ 14psi as it was and to be honest it sounds really really awesome. I drove it home (with no brake booster) as I live like 2 streets over from NZEFI, gave it a little squirt and it sounds amazing. I've achieved my main goal which was making more power than the L28 did hah. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GhnSvDQVio http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-ALk5nymh8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzYyeVjHqMw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsadatsun240z Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 That explains the sale of the L28ET parts off then There is a 280zx in Japan fitted with an RB30D (triple DCOE carbs) but like you say not too many S130 with the RB26DET conversion. I'd be interested in pics of this setup if anyone has any Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted December 12, 2011 Author Share Posted December 12, 2011 Don't know if it's the same car but here are some photos of one I found: http://www.testarossa.jp/library/s130/index.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArchetypeDatsun Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I don't recall the name of the video I watch on YouTube but it was filmed in Japan they were testing all generation of Z's and one white S130 had a RB26 swap single turbo with 600hp. They took it out in the highway and that thing was a monster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 What turbo did you end up going with and why? Im thinking about the new bg EFR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 I went with a GT4088R with the 0.85AR exhaust housing. I've pretty much always used Garrett turbos and wanted something slightly bigger than a GT3582R, it seems to be reasonably responsive and should suit my power goal perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Yea, I think that would be a bit laggy for my cruizing area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raven12 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Where did you get those larger outer wheel lips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 They were spun by a company here in New Zealand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 So I got a turbo beanie and heat wrapped the downpipe, these are some of the things I needed to do to get it legal. Pretty much final ride height, got some 275/40/17 Nittos for the rear Chopped up the manifold to try and fix the wastegate creep, I cut the two pipes off that go to the wastegate and ported where they join onto the runners, then I chopped where the two pipes merge quite far up and ran some 2" stainless pipe to the wastegate, this seems to have fixed the problem. Brought a proper Tial BOV, still having a little bit of trouble getting a decent vacuum signal to it, it's a bit slow to go off. Still looking for a clutch, I've got my eye on a triple plate Tilton which should do the business. Installed some longer wheel studs in the back and got some fancy aluminium wheel nuts from my mate for naught. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra510 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Nice build and LM's with the wide lip. Get a clutch in there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 I'm trying! Money keeps getting spent on other things, just bought this the other day as well, another RB powered ride. Hopefully the triple plate won't be too hard to drive, I've driven an R34 GTR before that had a twin or triple plate in it and stalled it, but I'm sure with practice it'll get easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted December 22, 2012 Author Share Posted December 22, 2012 (edited) It's been a while since I updated this, been through a fair bit since then! Sold the Stagea and bought another car some of you guys might appreciate: Got the Z legal and drove is around for about 6 months till this happened: 2870Km old N1 pump, it probably broke due to a couple of reasons but I won't recommend that anybody uses an N1 pump with standard gears. I had the 63,000K ex Z31 NICS RB20DET that I bought for the sump and mounts sitting around since I removed it from my old R30 so I thought I'd put it to use. I'll get it tuned in January hopefully and drive it like this for 6 months or so, it's running the factory FJ20 turbo from the DR30 and 444cc GTR injectors but is using everything else from the 26, intercooler, oil cooler, sump, gearbox, Link computer etc. It should be good for maybe 250rwhp if the turbo can keep up? In the mean time I also bought another almost complete RB26 that had run a bearing, number 6 big end which looks like it was probably caused by the screws coming loose in the factory oil pump. I bought it for half of what I paid for the original 26 and it's actually in better condition, no detonation damage to the head and other than the one big end journal the crank is mint, it also came with a set of 550cc RX7 injectors. I also bought a complete "series 2" RB30 for $200NZ, sold the head, auto trans and a driveshaft that came with it. The plan at the moment is to fix and sell the original RB26 and use the head off the new one combined with a built RB30 block, should get the GT40 spooling a bit faster. Edited December 22, 2012 by djz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) Got the Z legal and drove is around for about 6 months till this happened: 2870Km old N1 pump, it probably broke due to a couple of reasons but I won't recommend that anybody uses an N1 pump with standard gears. That looks like you ran the N1 oil pump on a standard crank. Ive seen that happen so many times because someone used the N1 pump with a stock crank. The N1 crank has a collar that extends much further than the std crank which is why the JUN and other companies crank collars are available. Once you have more than 2 square mm driving the oil pump the pumps center gear is loaded properly and the failure rate drops drastically. Didnt one of your first post mention you had the JUN collar? Correct me if Im wrong. Ive got an N1 pump sitting in the box new and a JUN collar ready to go in my next project. A local board member and I tested this theory out on an RB25 here setup with a 2 step launch that's really hard on the oil pump. The collar and the N1 pump held up long term while drag racing at the strip. Weird that yours didnt Glad to see your back up and running. Edited December 23, 2012 by rayaapp2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 That looks like you ran the N1 oil pump on a standard crank. Ive seen that happen so many times because someone used the N1 pump with a stock crank. The N1 crank has a collar that extends much further than the std crank which is why the JUN and other companies crank collars are available. Once you have more than 2 square mm driving the oil pump the pumps center gear is loaded properly and the failure rate drops drastically. Didnt one of your first post mention you had the JUN collar? Correct me if Im wrong. Ive got an N1 pump sitting in the box new and a JUN collar ready to go in my next project. A local board member and I tested this theory out on an RB25 here setup with a 2 step launch that's really hard on the oil pump. The collar and the N1 pump held up long term while drag racing at the strip. Weird that yours didnt Glad to see your back up and running. It was on an R32 crank with a Jun collar. I was at the track, just touched on the limiter (just over 8000rpm) and the oil light came on. One of the contributing factors is probably a loose crank pulley which wasn't done up by me but I should have checked it as I knew the shop that did it up didn't have a torque wrench big enough, it wasn't completely loose but I undid the bolt with a ratchet, which isn't exactly the 400+Nm it's supposed to be done up to. But as I said, I won't use another N1 pump with standard gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custom280zx Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Hi, nice build. i also have a s130 280zx with an rb26 conversion only i still have the twins.i am alose looking to go a decent size single top mounted. just wondering if you had any trouble fitting the topmount turbo under the bonnet?looking at mine, the rockercover only just fits under when i close it. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Hey, your engine mounts might be a little different to mine, I've got a reasonable amount of room above the head but not a lot between the sump and the crossmember. You should post up some pictures of yours, I'd like to see it. I'm actually keen on doing a low mount single turbo, I think that'd be pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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