TheSnail

I think you should get it if it is in good running condition. I had 4 rb powered 240sx's, two sr powered 240sx's and a ca18 powered one. Out of them all the rb's were my favorite in smooth strong power and sound. I had never had one of the rb cars brake down on me either. Very very reliable unless you get your hands on a sick one from the start. Then it can become a problem if you dont do the work yourself.

Hey stony, I got pics of both. Mine My friends Also the gtr pan will hit the crossmember/stearing slightly, though you can grind it down a little bit and be fine. The swaybar on the other hand somwhat depends on the mounts, if you use aftermarket 20/25 mounts that set your 26 back one inch then you can clear the stock sway bar by mm's though you can get even better clearence by using extra spacers on the swaybar. If you used stock rb20mounts and and r32 crossmember, then you will not clear you swaybar, and a custom one would have to be made.

No problem, if its the gtr oilpan you want to keep I will ask my friend for pictures, but basically it goes like this, and I quote: "The second option is to modify the factory aluminum Rb26 oil pan. This is much more involved, but in my opinion is the best way to do it. Just look at the two pans and you will see why. As for modifications, the differential housing must be cut off and ground down. The holes where the axle went through the pan then need to be welded up, and some ribs need to be ground down (for clearance). Although this method solves many issues, it also creates one as well. The factory sway bar will not clear this pan. About all you can do is either notch the front of the pan for clearance, or build a custom sway bar."

I just sold my 240 that I put an s15sr into. Bone stock with fmic, exhaust, and a boost controler set at 20lbs I put down 290rhp 291tq. That was with the stock MAF maxing out at 5.5k. Basically for a nice 300-330hp you can get a s15sr and just get a safc and a 300zxtt maf and you're set. The redtop you can slap on an s15turbo (fast spool) ,injectors, safc and maf, and a clutch. Thats for a nice allaround quick spooling powerful setup. So Redtop-2k s15turbo-600-900 maf - 100 safc- 150-300 injectors- 100-500 clutch-200-500 or S15- 3k-5k maf-100 safc- 150-300

Im not too sure if anyone here in the states remaps rb20 ecu's. Since there is not too much of a market, as well as you can buy already remapped ones from Japan for around $100-200 on ebay. Though most people I know just get a safc, or Power fc since they are a good bang for the buck, which for rb's run around $500 with comander in good used condition.

It was a stock ecu that had been modified to have a higher rev limit and speed limiter removed. But it is stock other wise.

No problem. To clarify what I am saying before I post pictures tomarrow is: At the top of your gas pedal you have a "flat" area. Basicaly you drill a hole through it then get a ziz wheel or a saw, and cut slot into it. So you will be able to slide the cable in through the slot and the end of the cable is held in place at the hole. Its the same way a stock 240sx pedal has it set up.

Yeah, no solid pivot on the firewall. I can go take pictures of it tomorrow for you if you want.

The rb20 in the 280z we did, we used a 240sx cable, then made a slot at the top of the stock gas pedal.

Hello I just want to clarify some things on the rb swap. I was shocked as to how easy swapping the motor was into the z. Ive done a dozen rb swaps into 240sx but never in a Z until this past weekend. It is basically the same, but the 240sx you swap out the crossmember and the z you swap the oil pan. So here is a outline of what we had to do. The car is my friends 280z and the motor is a rb20det out of a 93 skyline. So first we took the l28 out and cleaned up the engine bay a bit, then changed the oil pan to a rear sump. Then we grinded down the nipples on the stock rb20 mounts as they are on opposite sides. Then we put the engine in. We used the stock Z trans mount and bolted it up to the rb tranny. Then we bolted every thing up. Then zizwheeled the cover plate off the input shaft, and bolted up the drive shaft. That was it. It sits in there just like one in a 240sx with the shifter forward one inch. So after that it was just fluids, fuel pump, wiring and a throttle cable from a 240sx. It took about 10hrs from start to finish. After seeing how simple it was, I have decided on getting an rb25 for my newly acquired 240z (hence Im a newbe). I will use a rb20 trans and mounts just out of simplicity and a weekend of down time. I would keep the rb25 tranny around just incase I keep braking the rb20/ca/ka/sr tranny’s. But I think it will hold up just fine at 400hp. Same goes with the rb26, but the main bitch part with those is the whole oil pickup part. I had a rb26 240sx where I used rb20 mounts and a rb25de trans which is the same thing as a rb20det trans, and it bolted up just the same as any other rb. The tranny held up even after 460rwhp so Im just going to go with that. Anyways, I don’t know if what I said has already been covered but I figured I would share. Hopefully I'm not just wasting bandwidth. Snail