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  1. 1 point
    I think I remember the ECU being different for manual and auto transmissions,.... I have a manual ECU that I won't be using. The 83 head is different though, from what I've read it has hydraulic lifters and it not as desired as an 82. I can't give the reasons why.... Just random reading. Dave
  2. 1 point
    People with actual eyes can usually see that this thread is over 8 years old.
  3. 1 point
    Back to the beginning. If you look at the wiring diagram, the reverse light circuit is tied to the Accessory bus in the fuse panel. The circuit also feeds the wiper motor. Out of the 20 amp fuse (stock) there's a Blue/Red (LR) that runs through the dash harness -> engine bay harness -> wiper motor. There is a Red (R) spliced into the LR at some point that also (stock) runs through the dash harness to the engine bay harness. Stock, the wiring to the reverse switch on the transmission comes out of the loom about the same spot the wiring to the wiper comes out and runs under the trans tunnel on the right side to the switch on the transmission. A Red/Black (RB) comes out the other side of the switch and back along the same path that the Red went out. Once it's back inside the cabin, the RB connects to the body harness and goes back as power (+12v) to the reverse lights. The lights get their ground from back under the hatch (tied to the sheet metal somewhere IIRC) In your case the red should be connected to that 20 amp fuse output that also powers the wiper motor. The black is NOT a ground (if it's coming from the other side of the reverse switch) - it should connect to the Red/Black that's going back to the reverse lights. (I would not do it that way - as it's confusing to anyone else working on the car. Black in a Datsun should always be a ground. If you can't run it RB, use R - then people will at least know it's probably power) (A switch is merely a break in a wire - it is NOT "one side hot, one side ground". So, in this case the Red/Black is just a continuation of the Red wire. The reverse switch is there so the light only comes on when the transmission is in reverse. The reverse switch breaks the wire apart when not in reverse, and "puts the wire back together" when it is in reverse.) This is a very simple part of the process. I just learned most of the above looking at the wiring diagram and remembering how the wires hook up to my transmission. (OK, I have a little stronger background in Z wiring, I admit...) But, If this is too much, you'll need to get someone else OR - like they stated above - spend a good deal of time in learning. IMO an EZWire kit will not make this process simpler but at least it will be new wire - which is always a plus... You'll still need to understand how all these components are wired - and why. The dash harness (there are actually two separate harnesses strapped together as one assembly) is mildly complex - gauges, lighting, multi-function switches, ignition, fuse panel, flashers, stop lamp, hazard switch (OK, now I'm just being an a-Hole...). How do you eat an Elephant? One bite at a time. This can be done - one step at a time.
  4. 1 point
    Bend the bar. If you have a press you can bend them pretty easily. Surprisingly easily.
  5. 1 point
    I noticed that too. Perhaps the LCA mount is already pushed outboard a bit. Everything stacking up creates the difference.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Welcome aboard and that is an interesting concept you are considering. I wonder if the smaller and lighter Toyota 86 or older Scion frs/ Subaru brz would be a better candidate. Older models are relatively inexpensive.
  8. 1 point
    Welcome Very interesting. Mark's build is probably along the same lines or the project ardvark build. The reason I think people restore the rusty frames are to have the all important VIN number which allows registration and insurance. Kit cars without a VIN of sorts can be difficult to get certified for insurance or road use. If it is a track only toy then the requirements are much less, granted I think some places still want VINs for insurance purposes even for race cars. Would be interesting, 350z's are pretty affordable, and if you could find a way to use the sub frames and such and the stock suspension pickup points the list of benefits would be pretty neat. The problem then would be you are basically building a lighter 350z with a body kit. Mark has a very modified power plant and suspension setup, and the project aardvark has similarly extensive modification, but for drift usage. I'm not sure how the car would be running 350z geometry in a shorter wheel base with a different balance and different weight. Will be interested in what you come up with!
  9. 1 point
    Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
  10. 1 point
    I'd be a bad person to answer these questions but I think an auto '82 for $2200 is steep. I spent $1k on my donor '82 5 speed and after reading some I think I paid too much. BUT I will say the '82 head is preferred over the '83 hydraulic so I've read. Mine wasn't running and I had it totally rebuilt. I've got $9K in the rebuild but it wasn't to OEM. I had forged pistons and rods added along with just about anything else you could think of. Overkill? I'm sure. I have the I/C fitted, I still need to work out the electric cooling fans and then comes the fuel management.
  11. 1 point
    If you're asking that question, you can't do it. Either spend a ton of money having an auto fabrication shop doing all the work for you, or change your mind on doing it. If none of those options are suitable for you, then spend hours and hours learning to fabricate and pour over other peoples build threads until you can find enough similarity in swapping some engine into a Subaru, and swapping an RB engine into something that normally doesn't have one.
  12. 1 point
    My 260Z has lead there as well but mine was in good shape after media blasting so we just went over it with DP epoxy primer. My understanding is that once the lead starts to fail you need to remove it, melt it out, and either replace it with new lead or filler.
  13. 1 point
    Also just a heads up, i won't be able to reply that often so please be patient as I am running this company and a few others and get pulled in various directions. thanks
  14. 1 point
    In 2002 I started a collaboration with John Radevich of JCI in Dallas, Texas. The goal was to build my 1977 280Z into a daily driver using an LS1 and T56. Ya search of "LS1 / T56 Update" will give a lot of the history of that project that resulted in one of the first S30's on the road with that combination in June of 2003 and a conversion component kit sold worldwide by JCI. Since then over 16 years and about 45,000 miles have passed. The car has been raced on quarter mile tracks, done the combination oval and infield at Texas Motor Speedway, done autocross work and a hillclimb. In between those fun events it has been my fair weather daily driver. The move from Texas to Washington state eliminated winter driving due to the corrosive deicing material used by WSDOT. Could it have been done better? Back then, probably not, but today definitely so. I'm happy to see all the aftermarket equipment available for these cars. I used to only shop at Motorport Ajuto in Orange, CA (zcarparts.com) for my bparts but with the drivetrain conversion my world was opened up to Arizona Z Car, Techno Toy Tuning, Silvermine and so many others. Every year that has gone by has seen the development of quality parts and systems for these cars - like zledslights.com down in Weslaco, TX and Dapper Lighting with their LED lighting conversions and Braille for their great Lithium Ion lightweight batteries IMG_4214.MOV IMG_4214.MOV . One thing that has remained constant, however, is the quality of the designed parts and equipment provided by JCI during that project so many years ago. To this day I have not had issue with any component designed by them. Thanks John, you did well for me.
  15. 1 point
    Update: So I changed the clutch collar and bearing to the correct one. I compared the clutch collars and it seems to be about the same. So far no problems going through gears. I am testing it tom Am for slippage.
  16. 1 point
    Just finished welding the adapters together, figured I'd give my review. Turned out to be relatively straight forward and simple. Only extra work required was some grinding of the inner edges so my 280z adapter would seat correctly. Definitely get the welding jig if you don't have access to a mill or lathe.
  17. 1 point
    Steve Bonk is on FB page Church of L-Series. He normally has a few Don Potter cams for sale. Juts awesome cams if you don't know Don Potters history...
  18. 1 point
    this forum has really slowed down but I thought I'd make a brief update since it's been a while. I've been driving the car, slowly tuning the setup. You can imagine that a completely custom chassis is going to have it's own pros and cons to discover and tune. Right now just finishing up installing a new set of springs and 2-way adjustable shocks. We are adding some rock shielding to the engine back- the open wheel wells are cool looking but invite all kinds of rocks into the engine bay. Also working on adding a wing to the rear for better aero.
  19. 1 point
    Yes they were... were as in I made a 3 foot breaker bar and that did the trick. Loud snap and I thought I broke the head off the bolt but once got about a quarter turn they were loose and hit them with the impact and came off / out no problem. Installed the new Mount easily and strap easily. Thanks for the replies and info.
  20. 1 point
    You're going to want to bleed the system afterwards, so it's really not worth worrying about trying not to lose brake fluid during the conversion to coilovers. (Unless you leave the entire system intact, and hanging on hangers during the conversion, as Leon suggested.). Also a good time to replace your soft lines, if necessary, as Jon Mortensen suggested....consider replacing the stock rubber soft lines with steel braided lines, as well.
  21. 1 point
    I come back every time I'm banned...with this year meaning of the prior three months I've only been on FB maybe a total of 14 days. They are seriously PC and nobody can take a joke. They are also EXTREMELY Eurocentric-Communo/Socialists and anything that deals with anti-communist or anti-socialist in any way will get you scoped and flushed. They also are Anti-Goodwin, with the mere mention of Adolph, or even his face in a humorous meme poking fun at his stupidity will get you banned for 30 days. Then, while you're gone, apparently they assign some snowflake to comb through all your posts and start tagging ANYTHING that they NOW deem offensive. The Best one was last year they tried to ban me for a post that showed up in one of the FB "7 Years Ago Today" auto-posts... Go ahead and share it and BOOM BAN! not even 15 seconds. "Hey, YOU GUYS SENT IT TO ME!" Whiskey Tango Foxtrot??? The upside is, I have a lot more time to do other things. For the first time in years my Quicken is up-to-date with proper balances on ALL the accounts!
  22. 1 point
    Well I don't see a reaction disk in there.... Edit: also based on the crustynes of the booster and the fact that i can get one from autozone for under $100 with tax and shipping I plan to just replace it.
  23. 1 point
    Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pictures. The paint had to be sanded or removed to metal and bondo was applied. First time ever really doing body work and it looked OKAY. I did have a professional come and do the final things to the driver's side fender and door. Lots of chipping paint that needed to be sanded. After things were sanded and looked pretty good, spray can primer was sprayed on the trouble spots, then sanded, then black rustoleum, then sanded. Finally I wet sanded the car with 1000 grit and made sure all surfaces were smooth. Then the fun began. Vinyl took around 20 hours to finish in a weekend. This did not include the headlight buckets, turn signals, or cowling which I am still trying to figure out. The car being unibody caused issue. The rear bumper section is 1 piece which is then overlapped 1 inch by the quarter panel which is then overlapped by the roof. Knifeless tape was key to get smooth lines. The hood is harder then it looks because of the round center bubble. Really have to stretch and pull to get in on right. Also getting the vinyl to stick properly on the back required cleaning all edges and even applying loctite super glue.... I know not the right way, could use primer 94, but actually works! Just don't get that near any exterior surfaces or you will leave marks on the laid vinyl. Fenders are one of the easiest. Tucking around the wheel arch was a little tough. Make sure to clean these back areas so that no dirt is in between were you want the vinyl to stick on the inside. This is were I started to notice that my rusto paint would start to peel if we kept taking off and re-applying the vinyl. There are spots were you can see this for sure, but oh well.... it cost 500 dollars. Also you would get specs of shit for the same reason, small pieces of paint peeling up. Moral of the story. Only works on really good paint or paint that is strong against the body. Should have spent more time in that regard. Rear bumper area was pretty easy just a flat piece. The quarter panels were the most difficult. Trying to get around the rain gutter was a challenge. We accidentally cut the vinyl and had to pivot to a new plan regarding the roof. Paint was peeling up if we removed it so we went with what we got. If we were to peel it off... I would have to sand the whole quarter panel over again. Made it work, just needed to add an intermittent piece between the quarter panel and roof. Getting around the back taillight area was a little hard as you really need to stretch it. I assumed the inner edge would mostly be hidden by the taillight panel, but more is exposed then I thought. Might try to adjust this better. Roof and hatch were also pretty difficult. If you have old shitty gaskets around the glass. CHANGE THEM. Tucking underneath that shit would have been way harder than it already was. I got new rubber were needed and it was way worth it. If you mess up on a part like that... there goes 70 bucks in vinyl to redo it. Tucking worked best with knifeless tape in my opinion. Don't forget the sides of the windshield... I used a small inlay for that. Also the bottom area below the door is an inlay. Here is the vinyl result.... get it... vinyl result Might keep the windshield wiper area black... its scary when you see all the spots were it needs to be cut! Here is a picture of how we did the inlays from quarter panel to roof. It turned out pretty damn good if I say so myself. I have learned a lot about this process as I went because there is not too much info about unibody cars. I would say that this is a pretty difficult job and very tedious. Details are important, missing a cut or making a mistake can make it look bad. We had mistakes, bumps, paint chips you name it, but the point of this was to get the car looking good for a couple years for cheap until I am ready to get the car painted. What I would suggest if you want to do this... - Make everything really smooth. - If painting, take your time and get it to stick well. Paint peeling and sticking to the vinyl was the biggest issue I experienced. - Have a friend. My dad worked the whole time with me.... I can't thank him enough. I did a trial hood before all this on my own and it took 2 times as long and looked way worse. - Plan out all the cuts before you apply. Thought I would share my experience. If you have any questions about it let me know. I hope to reassemble the car in the next 2 weeks.
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