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I think the VQ37VHR is a great swap. Trying to make over 380whp is going to be a nice challenge. I would say possible, but the juice may not be worth the squeeze. 350-380whp is going to be bananas on an s30 chassis that is dialed in right. I would still jump into doing the swap even if 350whp was only decently achievable.2 points
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2 points
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I've been searching and reading Hybrid for over three years while building my first Z. I just purchased my second Z project. It is a 1972 240z that has a relatively stock RB25 engine and transmission. It came with a bunch of parts, including a z32 ECU tuned by Enthalpy and a bunch of Greddy parts. I'm positive that I'll have some specific questions with this build, so I thought I'd make an account. I'm open to all feedback and will answer any questions, but I must warn you that I am an accountant and lawyer. Accordingly, my mechanical skills are all self-taught and just a hobby. I made sure to read through all the rules, but please let me know if I'm messing something up. I took a couple of pictures of my first Z project. I did the majority of the work myself, including rust repair, metal fab, rebuilding brakes, re-gasketing the engine, suspension bushing, interior sound deadening and vinyl, and paint and body. The goal of this car is a daily driveable stock car that has one or two mods for reliable performance. The link to the photos is below: https://photos.app.goo.gl/FEXaWgYEMedA2FJv9 I just started this album, but I'll be updating it as I get working on the project. The goal of this car is to make a performance-based street car that will occasionally see the track. The link is below: https://photos.app.goo.gl/1mh98jL3ZSX7tKZS9 I also started a build sheet to compile my research and goals for the car. The link to this is below: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bo8g_EwR20yOKLUaRTioTVzFdnB2j3uEJbdwrEh3xhU/edit?usp=sharing1 point
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1 point
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240z hidden drive by wire actuator for my ITB setup. This is design number 4. This plan utilizes a Efi hardware actuator. The goal is the same length arm to the bell crank and distances from shafts and the rod. So the rod passes through the firewall evenly and doesn’t walk from left to right. This will mount to the pedal plate and the steering box mounts. So behind the firewall Prior designs walked too much in the hole and I don’t want that.1 point
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Hey everyone. I developed and 3d printed an adapter to go from the vintage air mini gen II tube to the center vent on the 280z and figured others might want to utilize it as well. I'm figuring $20 and it's shipped to your door (U.S., I don't know about international shipping). for mine I mounted it in a carbon fiber center section so I also can include the stands to offset the air vent and a cut template to utilize.1 point
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1 point
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Incredible Extreme Ford Super Duty 8.8 Differential Conversion Kit- This Kit was designed and created by Vladmir Zagumennyy located in Golden Valley, Arizona. He has been working on this particular kit for several years and is constantly upgrading it. His kit has been proven to go 8.6 and 161 already. https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=502465925737642&id=1065043032290757 My kit arrived in two heavy boxes, Parts are constructed with 1/4" and !/8" Mild Steel with Gussets -Very Robust! Besides the parts to do the 8.8 Differential Conversion, there were Two Adjustable Front Control Arms and Two Upper Rear Strut Plates. I do not plan to work on the Z Front End yet. The Rear Disc Calipers and Pads are left for you to choose. He recommends using Brake Parts fron 2015 -2020 Mustang GT. His Front Control Arms utilize Mustang GT Spindles. This will also allow the use of Bimbo Six Piston,Calipers and Rotors from 2015-2020 Mustang GT. Using Ford Parts(new or Used) will save you alot of $$$ and are readily available. Differential Support -weigh 17.1 pounds Differential Cage-12.6 pounds Front and Rear Control Mounting Brackets-2.4 pounds CV Axle Shafts-15.7 pounds one Ford 8.8 Super Duty Differential-107 pounds Rear Strut Support-9.5 pounds one Front Lower Control Arms-4.8 pounds one Parts were debrred and sandblasted. Ready for Powder Coating. Back from the Powder Coaters. Next-Installation of the 8.8 Differential-1 point
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Hi guys it's been a while since over been on HZ, I'm working on a VW ATQ engine in a rail buggy. (its the engine in the early 2000s Passats V6) I'm here because some of the smartest people I've ran into are here on this forum, and I'm hoping someone can chime in and let me know if they think my proposed cooling setup will be ok. Radiator is rear mounted behind the engine, Oil cooler is getting ditched. It's pretty common knowledge amongst the VW guys they're about useless the way the are plumbed from the factory. I've attached two pictures, one is of the original cooling system, and the second is of my proposed one. Catch can isn't pictured but it feed off the radiator neck. Thank you.1 point
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The stock rubber bushings will impart a pretty significant twisting force on the pin. Rod ends or a similarly smooth pivoting mechanism don't need to worry about torque on the spindle pin (or bolt), so no need for a hold down. It's a 5/8" bolt, so torque it to 100 ft/lbs or similar and it's not going anywhere. If you're really worried could put witness marks on the pin and housing to make sure it doesn't rotate, but it ain't gonna rotate.1 point
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Pretty much anyone running adjustable LCA's or aftermarket upright just run a long bolt in place of the spindle pin with no center wedge pin.1 point
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Welcome back! Looking at your account info, I see the following message: "Account locked from logging in using this IP address until 01/24/25 10:28 AM following 3 unsuccessful login attempts." So we have a couple options. 1) You can try logging in after the requisite wait time. (You may have to use the "Forgot Password" process, if you don't remember your old password.) 2) I can "merge" your old account with your new account; which should give you full access/control of both accounts. I'm not sure, but I think it may default to your new username; but you may also have the option of renaming it to whatever you want. 3) Now that your new account is approved, you can access and view all your old posts & photos....correct? Does that suffice? Let me know how you'd like to proceed. Cheers!1 point
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@dprada01 Thanks for the input! Actually, much of this build is inspired and assisted by a fellow builder doing that exact project on his 240/280. I always loved the VQ, and the main goal is to overbuild (Originally, I was looking to attempt the 5XXhp mark and detune to 425*hp) and make a more reliable number as opposed to the constant breaking point. I also recently edited to add, this car will be about 900lbs lighter (3250 --> 2500*), due to it getting the full IMSA/GTO car treatment. Maybe I'll have to shoot a little lower, and hope for the best lol. I feel like I should also clarify, I'm dropping this in a Z31 chassis. The 80's odd child has a special place in my heart.1 point
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No doubt it will fit, but feels like a huge milestone. Still posting on youtube weekly and hope to get to installing this driveshaft asap. I was very concerned about the cost of a shaft with a splined mid section, but came out to a very reasonable $647.02. Granted, I guess when you only paid $800 for the engine and $800 for the transmission, that seems like a lot. But this is also one of the main custom pieces not off the shelf available nor that I can make, so I'm happy it wasn't more than $1k.1 point
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Turns out, I had the wires plugged into the wrong sides of the diode (backwards). Doh! I switched them and now the car reads 14.37 volts at idle. Yay! The new fusible link was replaced after the lights being left on and during diagnostics. I was just trying anything and everything at one point to figure it out. The voltage would start at 12.6 (with a full battery charge) and just slowly drop a tenth every 30 seconds or so with the engine running, which is consistent with the alternator not knowing it should be charging while the diode was not connected correctly. Thanks for the responses!1 point
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Thanks for sharing. I like the lower front fender brace, and some good ideas under hood and hatch.1 point
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Chassis stiffening always a good thing. Here's a link to some good ideas, if you're looking for additional inspiration. https://imgur.com/a/chassis-stiffening-inspiration-R27sh1 point
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Thanks it feels good to be working on it semi-consistently again. I still haven't had my half day this weekend, but I had an hour tonight so I started final shaping the lower condenser mount. I drew what I had conceptualized on a piece of cardboard a few weeks ago but decided to freestyle it as I was filing things down. I could do a lot more but I think I'm going to punch some speed/air bypass holes on the bottom of the mount and call it. The mounting is Setrab sandwich style soft mounts with high temp silicone sheet. I'm going to try to wrap this tomorrow and weld in the top soft mounts to the intercooler air plate.1 point
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1 point
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Ford 8.8 Super Duty Rear Differential Conversion Kit for my 71' Datsun 240Z There are several different companies that have Ford 8.8 Differential conversion kits for S30 and later model 260 to 280z. However, most of them utilize the earlier model of Ford 8.8 Independent Rear Suspension from mostly 2005 Ford Explorers,Mercury Mountaineers and other SUV models. These differentials can handle 400HP and some even have Limited Slip in them. So they have been utilized in Drift Cars,Ford Trucks, JDM Cars and even BMW Racers. But, finding one is difficult because high demand and limited supply. Fortunately,a New and Stronger Version of the 8.8 came about-the# Super Duty 550 Differential with started to appear in 2015 Mustangs with Coyote Motors and Eco-Boosted 4 cylinder cars. This differential can handle from 600 to 1000HP ( with beefed up). It weighs over 100 lbs and comes a Torsion Limited Slip. I ordered my Super Duty 8.8 from Summitt Racing for $1300with 3.55 Gears. + shipping. At the same time, I ordered the Sonan 8.8 Drive Shaft Adaptor from Summitt Racing for $179. They manufacture Two Versions of this Adaptor. One for Manual Trans and One for Automatic Trans. The difference is the existing Pinion Yoke Size. My 3.55 pinion takes the Automatic Trans Yoke Adaptor. It is constructed of Billet Aluminum and handle alot of horse power. This adaptor costs about $179. Next-Installation of Incredible Extreme 8.8 Differential Conversion Kit1 point
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Just did a Dyno run. Never mind the Rpms on the results. Used an external tach which wasn't tied into the Dyno. 175 hp and 204 torque. Dyno 3.1L 1-5-2024.pdf1 point
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Things got super busy again but this evening I went ahead and hardlined the oil cooler. I'm a bit out of practice on stainless so I accidentally put a couple of tooling marks in the tubes. The line sections are short so I'll work them out with a hardened rod when I wash everything out and rebrush the finish for final assembly. It's one of those things where I need to remind myself to slow down and think things through otherwise I end up making more work for myself or waste material. I also hit the AC Hardlines with some steel wool and wd40 to get a uniform finish but it's is a bit bright for me. I may go back and redo those in brushed as well. I realize I keep getting busy so this weekend I'm going to try and dedicate a solid half day to wrapping up the turbo cooler packaging updates.1 point
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1 point
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My workspace is a mess so this evening I started cleaning up before proceeding so I threw the intercooler back on to check clearances for the AC and oil cooler sections. I think everything looks good to continue fabrication. My welding station is currently set up for AL which it never is so I've been contemplating also hard piping the intercooler with aerospace wiggins clamps. Not sure if it's worth it for this ebay special as the clamps and separate weld ferrules are eye bleeding expensive but I'll simmer on it over weekend projects.1 point
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My opinion: Flares because your tires are fat and need room = cool. Skinny tires that should fit stock but spaced way out anyway = not cool. It's in the same vein as camber to me. Negative camber for better handling? Awesome. Crazy negative camber because you want people to know how much camber you have? Stupid.1 point
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I just ran across this, I can't believe it's been this long. Still love the Z. The only thing I have done to it in the past several years was recovering the Miata seats with upholstery from lseat.com. is this site still active?1 point
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Weld in plate to get the max caster and bring strength back to the shock tower. The reason for the needed caster mod, is the mustang spindles have an offset bearing, and were designed for 8 degrees of caster in general. Proper wheel placement in a Datsun s30 requires the offset balljoint and shock top. David in the dark blue car just cut his front fenders instead, and kept his ball joint in the normal location.1 point
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new front bolt on control arms available that make the 2014 mustang spindle swap a bolt on deal. green car also has baer brakes and he really likes them. the suspension picture isn't of the new arms, but is of the spindle swap in general. This particular car has modded stock arms. faded red car has the front spindle swap and the rear 2015 mustang hub and diff swap too.1 point
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1 point
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For example... the cheapest coilover setup is 900 bucks and requires welding... or you can use bolt struts from a different platform... I'm trying to use the super 8.8 off a 2015 mustang... bolt on factory brakes on the rear, hubs etc... 40 bucks for a hub sure beats 800 for stub axles and then another 600 for companion flanges. The s30 platform market is saturated, very true. But it's saturated with severely overpriced junk.1 point
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The fill line needs to slope down to the fuel tank its entire length. From the picture it looks like there is a low spot in the line near the 90 that turns up to the filler opening in the side of the car. Fuel will pool there during normal driving and will be a fire hazard in an accident. Does your fuel cell have a roll over valve at the fill plate? If not, that would be a very, very good thing to add. A roll over valve in the vent line would also be a good idea. I made both of these suggestions because there is no bulkhead separating the fuel cell and fill line from the driver's compartment. Ideally you'll add a bulkhead separating the fuel cell and filler line from the rest of the passenger compartment. Without it, in a hard rear end collision, you could be sprayed with fuel - which hopefully does not ignite.1 point
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with the 240sx rear brakes, you flip the parking brake cables left to right, and vice versa, and run adapters you can either get from ross, or make them yourself using 2 cleft pins and a metal bracket with 2 holes in it.1 point