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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/29/20 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Minor improvements for v3, namely the ability to jump from 2015 to 2014 brakes and back as needed. Also tabbed a few spots to keep it from moving around too much during welding etc. David still rocking v1 in his 800hp car without issues half a year later.
  2. 1 point
    Made the parts for the battery tray area, need to welded in the last part. also finished the plates that will tie my new framerails to the old ones in the enginebay
  3. 1 point
    Looking great! Is that an OEM part or some after market that you've plugged what looks like a water temp sensor into, that's attached to the radiator inlet?
  4. 1 point
    I had planned to work on installing the front suspension parts on my Z but I discovered that my supply of Gold powder was almost gone. So while I waited for the Gold Powder to arrive, I decided to finishing cutting the Right Front fender for the Rocket Bunny Flares. Like the Rear Flares, I made a Template of the already completed Left Front Fender. Note- I use almost all the fender edges( top, back, front and bottom) to create the template. The more reference points that you use, the more accurate the template will be. Side view of template Put template on the Right fender then Transfer the trim lines using a Black Marker pen. A Tin Snips was used to trim the fender. It was used as cutting thin metal like the front fender, vibrates a lot and making it hard to control. Note- make sure to grind all trimmed edges to prevent future sheet metal cracks. Next thing to do was to clean all of the Front Suspension parts in preparation for painting or powder coating. The rear stub axles were prepped at the same time to conserve paint materials. All the parts were first cleaned with cup wire brush on a 4 1/2 electric grinder to remove the heavy grease, dirt and paint. Then a Heavy Grease Removal soap ( was used straight without dilution) was used. First, with the parts cleaning brush then with a air solvent gun shooting the degreaser( now diluted) to get those hard to get to areas. Blasting away Stub axles after paining with Black Polyurethane paint. Note- the rubber joint boots were masked off otherwise the axles would have been disassembled to remover them. The other suspension parts after Polyurethane Painting. Before Powder Coating After Powder coating A flange bolt powder coated Front crossmember mounted Note- new Camber adjusting bolts were installed. Front to rear view of Front Suspension. Note -The Powder coated parts gives a nice contrast with Gloss Black suspension parts. Side view of the Right Side Suspension It took a lot of cleaning, grinding, painting and powder coating but I think it was worth it. Next, installing the Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool on the Front Suspension to check it out, is next.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Thanks. I'm aware why the D-shape is there, I just didn't realize some aftermarket shocks came with a matching shaft. My setup from T3 with Koni Yellows has a round shaft. T3 probably assumes everyone will use their camber plates rather than stock mounts. I guess I'll just get to work with the file and round out the mounts.
  7. 1 point
    Had to custom make a couple of offset interior door handles, as the stock ones would not clear the roll cage door bars. I knew this was going to be an issue, and initially planned to just use a couple of pull-cables to open the doors, but that introduced issues as well. Namely, the cable handles, unless very small, wanted to hang down and get caught when trying to close the doors. This was a bit more work, but hopefully a better long term solution. Basically they differ from stock only in moving the lever approximately two inches downward so they open freely below the door bars.
  8. 1 point
    Wrong bolts (to small) between the driveshaft and hub could also clunk under load.
  9. 1 point
    Thought I would drop a few pictures and an update here before starting a build thread and informational text/videos for others to reference. I have the engine ready for a clean up, inspected the cylinders which were pristine, and turned it by hand. Got all of the pieces together to send to ZFever for the wiring harness service. I’ll be posting about the adventure in finding the wiring parts soon.
  10. 1 point
    You could just call Wilwood, Stoptech, or Essex Parts (AP Racing distributor), tell them the weight of your car, how you will be using it, and what size wheels the brakes need to go under. Budget will be a huge consideration too. Of the three Wilwood will definitely be the most affordable. AP and Stoptech components range from somewhat reasonably priced to astronomically expensive. AP Racing parts go all the way up to F1 components...you can imagine what that costs. Anyway, they could recommend compatible front/rear disc and caliper combos suitable for your use and budget. They could also suggest pedal/master cylinder setups...or you could just shop around after you decide on discs/calipers. I really like Tilton pedals and master cylinders. Coleman racing can machine custom brake hats reasonably inexpensively once you know what you need. I personally would go with floating discs in front, not so important in back because the rears generally see far less heat.
  11. 1 point
    Most of the aftermarket brake companies, be it Wilwood, AP Racing, or whatever manufacture calipers intended for front wheel applications, and others for rear wheel applications. The rear oriented calipers will have smaller overall piston area to give you a default "bias" that is in the ballpark for most cars. The bias is fine tuned/corrected with either dual master cylinders and a balance bar, or with an adjustable proportioning valve. Each method has strengths and weaknesses. In general racing/track cars would be best served by a balance bar, and street cars with an adjustable proportioning valve. The relevant data are combined (assuming multiple piston calipers) piston size for each front caliper, combined piston size for each rear caliper, brake disc diameter front/rear, and tire diameter. With this information, companies like Tilton Engineering can make sound recommendations for front/rear master cylinder sizes. None of this is rocket science, but there is a lot of data and arithmetic involved in sizing everything correctly. I agree with the prior post that many brake "upgrades" are actually not always true performance upgrades. People get away with just bolting on huge discs and 4-piston calipers on the front brakes only, because generally such a mod just dramatically increases front brake bias. Front brake bias is "safe" (it won't cause the car to spin), but many of these aftermarket front brake upgrades will actually increase stopping distance from stock. To do it right, brakes need to be a system involving front/rear, master cylinders, and proportioning systems. If this is done correctly, you can dramatically improve on the stock brakes in terms of weight, "feel", stopping distance, and fade resistance.
  12. 1 point
    This is the guy who painted it, and I found two comments on two posts from him saying it's BMW Monte Carlo blue. Unfortunately, I can't really find any good photos of Monte Carlo blue that look similar to the Z color, but I'll have to take his word for it, since he'd be the guy to know. So I guess I was wrong after all and it's not the very similar Aston Martin color.
  13. 1 point
    Heck ya, axles looking good. Btw, 2018 mustang stick v8 cars are using gt350 axles. Gt350 axles are basically the same right axle, but the left has been increased in diameter and cv size. They will not work for this conversion. So you need v8 axles 2015 to 2017 and 2018 must be v8 automatic axles.
  14. 1 point
    I would find a level surface, and some good reference points on the car body, and see if the car is tilted or the flares are one the car incorrectly. Or if something else is going on. Reference points might be something obvious like the back bumper, or the bumper mounting points. Or the inner wheel well arches. Or the sub-frame mounting points for the suspension. If the car boy is tilted,then adjusting the suspension is reasonable,and will bring the body back in to line. If the flares are off, then adjusting the car body will introduce other weirdness, like a tilted look from the back.
  15. 1 point
    Installed the steering column and steering coupler. The steering coupler shaft interferes with my turbo oil drain, so I ordered 90" 3/4" barb for the drain that should solve the problem. Hoping for a maiden voyage this weekend!
  16. 1 point
    Surprising that it even started. What was wrong with the 1983 EFI computer? Why did you decide to buy the FAST EFI kit? Might be a clue. You showed a picture of your cylinder head temperature sensor, not the oil pressure sensor. And there are two connections on the ZX distributor, one for timing retard when cold and one that controls the coil. Luckily, apparently, you disconnected the one that controls retard when cold. Your coil control wires are still connected. Timing probably still advances when you rev the engine, because that is mechanical and vacuum. There is really no such thing as a plug and play engine control system. You have to know some basics of how your engine control system works, even if you don't know how to tune. You'll have to read through the instructions and the 1983 FSM and compare parts, or find somebody that knows ZX's, I think. https://www.fuelairspark.com/software-downloads
  17. 1 point
    Not sure how much effect you would get from just moving a battery a few inches lower on braking or handling.
  18. 1 point
    No. Nissan named two differentials the "R200". You'll see people calling them "longnose R200" and "shortnose R200". The longnose R200 came on the 280z, 280zx, and Z31 300zx. The shortnose R200 came on a bunch of Infiniti's in the 90's, and the S14 & S15 and maybe some other vehicles. Before you ask, I don't believe you can just swap the LSD from a shortnose R200 into a longnose R200 without a buncha work. I could be wrong, and as always, almost all of this info is out there already.
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