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  1. I have yet to meet a shitty Dutch performance part vendor. Koni is Dutch as well. If they had a bigger country, maybe they would make cars too πŸ€·πŸ½β€β™‚οΈπŸ˜‚
    1 point
  2. I've heard of a few people have had issues with the upper bushings in the Konis, and I suspect that there are a lot more who have the issues but don't know it. Cameron aka Heavy85 is the one I can point to off the top of my head. Opinions on shocks are kind of like brakes IMO. You get people who put gigantic brakes on the front of their Z and couple them with rear drum or crappy tiny rear disc and then they report that the car stops so much better, etc. Most people, IMO, don't know what proper brake bias feels like, I say this because I was actually one of these people. I went to a driver'
    1 point
  3. You are absolutely correct. Since I posted this, I went back and checked the rule book. No way this will compete in ITS. It has been lightened extensively. No way I can add-back 200lbs to meet the min weight, amongst other things. This car will continue as spec EP, but will qualify for some other vintage specs (beyond SCCA). If I race it myself, It will likely be vintage club and maybe SCCA vintage racing, as I don’t have the time to train or funds to compete in EP (at least for the time being). I had a great conversation with @gnosez and he was super helpful! Going to take her to
    1 point
  4. Nope. Unless they've changed the rules since I left, you are not only limited to a 0.5 compression ratio increase, but you are also limited to 0.025 machined off the head to achieve that. If you exceed that the head gasket thickness won't matter. You also have to run stock type pistons. There are many things engine, suspension, cage et al that you can do in EP but cannot in ITS. If you're anywhere near competitive in EP you'll be illegal in ITS. Build one of the other, IMHO.
    1 point
  5. Ok, I think is fixed now. Still working on a few other errors.
    1 point
  6. Just a point of detail, Quaife do still offer the lifetime warranty, they just exclude the US, Canada and Mexico. No idea why.
    1 point
  7. Hi, I'm very shortly commercialising 15x7 +0. For 15x8s, you'll need to contact Gavin Doolan in Australia, he should be on here or contact via AusZcar and/or Facebook.
    1 point
  8. Aydin71 - I fully understand that you have certain regulations and rules limiting what you can and can't do. I should be very upfront and admit I'm a Quaife or OS Giken fan even though I have run an '89 LSD unit for years. The late John Coffey got me into OS Giken after testing a unit giving him a full second over the Quaife and 2.5 over the LSD unit. Quaife is good for life even if you race it. I'm on the east coast so shipping would be expensive but I would look for someone selling a Datsun R180 in the right ratio for you (3:90/4:11/4:38?) and then install a Quaife or OS Giken. You c
    1 point
  9. A couple of things based on 17 years and over 225+ track days with a 240 race car: Stock diff mount welded with two steel bars (17 years and no issues) Engine HP ranged from 150 to 350+ @rw Ran stock half shafts for 15 years with no issues Used any number of R180 diffs (3:90 Quaife/4:11 Quaife/4:38 OS Giken) Ran a 4:44 R190 LSD (stump puller) Swapped in an R200 3:90 w/Quaife using 300ZXT CVs w/Modern Motorsports stub axles The swap to the R200 was in response to toasting two R180s due to the 250rwhp/250#storque/10 inch wide rear R7 Hoosiers. One w
    1 point
  10. No updates for a while. We had a small vibration, not really bad, just annoying, and of course right at 65-70 MPH. When my wife drove the car we had the 3.07 differential in it, one attempt at finding the vibration. We put the 3.73 back in (whole chunk, nothing is shared between the two). And the vibration came back. Drive shaft out, re balanced, re tubed, trans out, looking for something, anything that may cause vibration. Half shafts out, again. Trans UP diff, down to get angles better. They were not far off before. All in attempt to cure this vibration. Called a loca
    1 point
  11. Realize I am late chiming in here, but what the heck. What Grannyknot said is correct, and right on the money. The metal directly above the rear view mirror is critical. I don't know if you are planning to do any of the work yourself but if so I would strongly suggest taking the car to a trusted body shop and have them put the car on a frame machine and having the roof straightened as best possible BEFORE ANY SHEET METAL IS REMOVED! Do not cut anything without having this done first! The right side A-pillar will come back to its correct position if the shop knows what they are doing. Think of
    1 point
  12. @calZ LOL, fair point I have been spending way too much time fabricating rust replacements, replacing roll bar mounts, and reinforcing the chassis. I think I'm getting carried away. I have been cutting quite a bit of weight by removing unnecessary components such as unused brackets and factory unibody-welded nuts. When incorporating monocoque structural components (cells, like tubes), you can reduce quite a bit of weight when compared to the resistance welded stamped steel. I may actually have to add-back weight to meet the 2150 lb spec., but at least then I can replace the weight as low as p
    1 point
  13. Sometimes a reality check is needed and that can be provided here by looking at Z race cars and their results. The fastest Z's have always used the basic stock suspension, it's great that there are those who think outside the box and who are willing to put their $ where their mouth is, Once they do that however they need to turn a profit so they have to be commited to their product. What does not seem to be widely understood by potential users is the complexity involved in any suspension redesign. At the very least the actual dimensions and locations of all components needs to be established u
    1 point
  14. Thanks for the wealth of knowledge! I reached out to Fritz and he showed me another source for the LSD. Il be placing an order for his shafts shortly. I think this will be the best value overall, given the 20-30lbs weight savings and the LSD.
    1 point
  15. Plenty strong is a matter of opinion. I wouldn't run a bar in my car that wasn't at least pinned.
    1 point
  16. The VQ37 to my knowledge doesn't have good support with full standalone, and simply would not require it unless someone wanted to go for insane power, at which point I really think there are better platforms (LS anyone?). But the VQ37 with flashed stock ECU's also picks up more torque gains across the rev range than other VQ's. So for mild builds the potential to make pretty high N/A power is substantial with all the standard stuff that ought to be done in a swap (custom intake/exhaust/modified ECO with the security disabled, etc). We used ZFever to modify the stock ECU for this service.
    1 point
  17. 1983 280zxt 2+2 -engine= stock bottom end, 185km on the clock -turbo= jy h-trim t04b compressor, t3 .82 stage 3 hotside -Exhaust system - 3" as well as muffler bypass behind rear wheel - How much boost- 21-23psi -ECU= I ran the time in my sig with a nistuned z31 ecu/z32 maf, i dyno'd with an infiniti m30 ecu/z32 maf - autospeed dc motor controller with an m15 and a m10 nozzle methanol setup. -CC injectors - z31 ecu/440cc - latest setup = m30ecu/nippon denso injectors flow tested@670cc -IC - dual grand national cores welded together with 2.
    1 point
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