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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/25/19 in all areas

  1. 1 point
  2. 1 point
    Just measured i need 190mm swaybar link, i know MOT guys might not like cutted and welded link but its 10min job to attach sway bar to factory points for MOT. im doing this mod https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E30-E36-sway-bar-strut-mount-weld-brackets/253877569934?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 But again i have to criticise these parts, look how much you lose to leverage. you can only get softer with these parts But for the effectiveness to leverage to bmw it´s about +2mm (18mm bar acts as 20mm bar) but cause 240z sway bar mount is closer to lower ball joint im guessing +1mm for effectiveness Quick google to 190mm sway bar link says crown vic link might fit, thats not cheap find in Finland https://www.ebay.com/itm/165mm-210mm-Ball-Joint-Adjustable-Roll-Sway-Bar-End-Link-For-Lexus-Toyota-Nissan/264294647769?hash=item3d893047d9:g:Fd4AAOSwGhFcvW8f These are easiest. But citroen parts are 5€ each, just need to cut and weld
  3. 1 point
    Wheels for setting up your car 😉 The items pictured are more like hub stands as they don't resemble wheels It goes something like this - jack car up - wheel off's - bolt hub stand's to hub's in place of wheel's - lower onto corner weight scales/set up patch - give it a good shake to settle the suspension - adjust away to your hearts desire, without having to fight your way around the wheel that's normally in your way
  4. 1 point
    Don't let him weld anything of yours.
  5. 1 point
    It's steel. This isn't Medieval times. It's not a cast iron skillet or something.
  6. 1 point
    I'm not typically a New Years resolution type of person but for 2020 it's time to get moving on on my 72 240. When I first got the car I drove it fairly regularly and got to spend a lot of time wrenching. I replaced virtually the entire cooling system (minus heater core and metal tube around back of the engine) after fixing small leaks one after another. I then found the right front bearing to be shot so replaced calipers, pads, rotors and bearings on both sides with original components. From that point I just began acquiring parts with spare money but just never got the chance to install them. They include dual Corbeau seats with new brackets, an updated stereo from head unit to 8" sub, larger alternator and various other parts I am overlooking that I need to inventory. Having two kids and returning to finish a higher education degree really zaps some time! My long term goal is to have something I can trailer up to the mountains or an HPDE at least once, maybe twice a year. The rest of the time I'll be cruising around the local area and hopefully attending some car shows. While she is in fantastic shape, I do have some minor rust areas I need to have a professional address before I pull the trigger on any other modifications. I am interested in doing the R200 rear end and possibly a 5 speed swap, in my notes from my research years ago I wrote that the 280ZX was the ideal candidate but I'm not 100% sure why (gear ratios I think). I'd also like to update the suspension, braking system and some better wheels and tires. As far as the interior goes I have the aforementioned seats and stereo and I'd like to change the white vinyl to....anything else. I also plan on adding some carbon accents inside as well, but not on the exterior. In the interest of full disclosure I am in no way a professional mechanic. I do a lot of research and watch a lot of YouTube before undertaking a modification or repair. I am new to the forum world but I think it will help inspire me to press on. The car has been garaged from the moment I bought it but at this current moment it is NOT running and the last attempts to get it started have been futile. I plan on adding this forum to my morning routine and welcome any help, tips or insight. I am located in the southeast corner of Virginia near the North Carolina border. If you are close by maybe we can chat or I can check out your Z and get this project rolling again!
  7. 1 point
    I'm going from memory here, but the shaft sits in the oil pump and then the whole assembly is fed up into the timing cover from below. The crankshaft drive gear, pulley, and everything else (including the whole timing setup) can already be assembled at this point. The oil pump/distributor shaft will rotate along with the helix of the drive gear as it comes into mesh. Hence the difficulty some have in getting the shaft properly aligned with TDC. Tapping it downwards will just reverse this motion, though it may give some trouble in this situation, same with everything else. Though I'm starting to think op might find these parts unusable anyway based on the amount of persuasion they are needing.
  8. 1 point
    You may already know this trick; but one of the best ways to tackle that frozen bolt is to weld a nut on the remaining portion of the bolt shaft. It would still be a good idea to hit the bolt with heat and penetrating oil; but after the pump's off, you can apply directly where it enters the block and get the heat and oil much closer to the problem area.
  9. 1 point
    I did this on my build. Not only did it make no sense (to me) to have to dismantle the hub bearings to change the disc, the OEM setup also severely limits your options regarding disc choice. I used floating discs, for example, which would not have been possible with the OEM setup. I did have problems with the TTT hubs however. Once everything was assembled, I noticed the disc had a visible wobble when mounted on the hub. I hooked up a dial indicator and measured something like .015" wobble at the outer edge of the disc. Obviously that was FAR more than could be ignored...most OEM manufacturers specify no more than .001" runout of the disc: Then I measured the runout on the TTT hub without the disc attached, and got a .002" wobble on the hub face. I think that was the source of the problem, and the wobble just magnified on the disc face since it was much larger diameter. I measured my 45 year old OEM hubs, and they measured perfectly true, no wobble whatsoever. So after pondering things for a bit, I decided to just use the stock hubs. Since I have staggered front/rear wheel/tire sizing, I couldn't really see any downside to having 5 lug in the rear and 4 lug in front. This did involve getting new front brake hats machined, but fortunately at that time I had not yet ordered wheels. I mean, I would rather have used the TTT hubs, but I knew the wobble would have been a major problem, not just with the brakes but I am sure it would have introduced a "shimmy" into the steering wheel as well. Once I received the new brake hats, the discs ran perfectly true on the OEM hubs. For the record, I do not blame TTT for the problem. I have no doubt the hubs were manufactured true. The way CNC parts are made, it would have been a far greater challenge to make them wobble than to machine them true. I think I created the problem when I pressed the bearing races into the hubs. Aluminum is very soft, and the bearing races are hardened steel. Unless they are pressed into the hubs PERFECTLY straight, I could easily see them distorting the bearing bore or shaving a small lip, in which case they would not seat perfectly true and could easily cause a wobble. I think that is what happened, and it is my fault, but I suppose it does raise some questions about the suitability of aluminum as a hub material.
  10. 1 point
    not sure how long its been since I've seen the car, but I think I've seen it in Jacksonville, FL
  11. 1 point
    It's amazing how much of that gets picked up in the audio. I can never get a satisfactory recording of mine either. Good luck with the tune. ITB's rock:)
  12. 1 point
    I'm not a hard guy to find. PM me for my number or just contact me on Instagram, Facebook under my youtube channel name of Invincible Extremes
  13. 1 point
    Welcome. Useful information: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30.html Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers. For SU carbs, parts and instructions go to Ztherapy. Buy the "Just SUs" video. Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions Search the forums. Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html http://www.ztherapy.com/ http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html
  14. 1 point
    I pretty much gave up trying to use continuous beads when welding very thin metal, and use a series of connected spot welds. With such thin metal, you still get ample penetration, and for me (limited skill level) it is the best way to keep the heat under control. Every place I tried continuous beads on the Datsun sheet metal, it was a shit show...both in terms of burn through and horrible distortion.
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