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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/20/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 door, orange. I also own a 1976 280z that currently being built up into another fun toy and R&D test bed for future products. Much of my involvement on 'The Realm' has been sharing in my experimentation (Yamaha R1 carbs on a KA24e and MegaJolt EDIS ignition etc...) and learnings. "..I wonder if he is just cutting flanges off old u-joint axles and welding them on to "CV" axles..." - nope. I manufacture brand new adapters/flanges, accurate up to 4 thousands of an inch on centering/mounting to make them dead smooth. The flange's bolt-hole placement is left to CNC machining for repeatable accuracy. "...Not sure that they're much better than a u-joint axle though. What's the benefit?" - Several benefits: As the U-joints in our axles fail, finding replacements has been difficult, at least for me. Also, with lowered Datsuns, the larger angles within the axle exaggerates a U joint's inability to rotate at a constant speed. These newer CV axles (short for Constant Velocity), can rotate at more consistent speeds with larger angles. The end result is a noticeably smoother ride - even for Datsuns with seemingly fine stock axles. Another reputed benefit is more drivetrain efficiency and a couple percent increase power to the wheels. "I wonder where the came up with the torque limit. Breaking welds? " : A LOT of engineering went into these CVs - down to shear calculations, metals selected for the adapters and how it interfaces with the CV, impacts from tempering, redundancy in fastening etc... Calculations showed that the fastening/welding technique is ~20-30% higher than the stubs at their weakest point. Back to the question, the torque limit was placed because that's the approximate OEM limit that the axle is designed for, and I wanted to limit anyone trying these axles on over the top machines. As previously posted the axles are comparable to the Subaru STI which are quite capable. My guess on the weakest link now lies in either the axle splines or the shoulder/D bolts themselves. " Being that the stub axle is such a weak spot..." - I'm not sure where on the stub you are referring to but I do offer an integrated stub CV where an OEM STI stub is directly fastened onto the CV housing - in 3 different manners (it's NOT coming off!). It's really slick with only 4 bolts to fasten the axle onto a clip-in diff setup. A similar R200 version is in the plans for this spring as well. I hope that answers the questions. My CV axles are designed to fill a niche market and not directly compete with existing products/vendors. There are already several options for owners with massive HP and/or heavy track duty needs. My CVs, and frankly the basis of all my future products, are intended to be an affordable & original solution that offers a level of reliability (read: lack of maintenance) you expect from a street car, be it stock or with a moderate swap/upgrade powerplant.
  2. 1 point
    Not much to report as the weather in the mid-west has been less than desirable. I got all of the drum brake parts removed and realized that my driver's side rear wheel bearing is starting to go bad. I attempted to use my slide hammer but have been unsuccessful with getting the stub axle removed. I'm waiting for a warmer day (anything above 50*) to take a space heater out there to warm up that area, blow torch it a bit, and then use the slide hammer again. Several parts arrived in January, which is always exciting. I snagged the AZC Mustache bar and brace used for about $250 less than retail. I was also able to find and buy a really clean finned diff cover, which pretty much completed the rear diff set up. At this point, it feels like I'll never have the rear end work done in time to drive the car in the spring, but I'll keep pushing through. I attached some pictures of the new parts below. I haven't mentioned this in my past posts, but I'm the outside sales manager at C&R Racing. I'm personally working on product development for many different platforms, including swapped S30s. The engineers and I are working on a dual pass set up that will work with both LS and RB/JZ swaps. I can keep everyone posted on that development in this thread.
  3. 1 point
    Dang I can't find the link from a couple years ago. I think I saw something on Kameari's website about reproducing new castings of the mk63 calipers. They had pics of the rough castings pre machining. I had to translate the japanese obviously. I can't find it on their site now. It was awhile ago though maybe it wasn't Kameari. Parts Assist M Speed has the new units though. I know I wasn't on their site when I saw the post about the castings from a couple years back. These were a factory Z, hako, caliper for vented rotor. I'd run these. Not sure what the "stock" rules mean in his class but the mk63's were the road racing caliper back in the day weren't they? (I don't know too much about the old factory race car setups from back in the day) I've always assumed the mk63's were the homologation brake for one of the lower sports car classes. https://www.rhdjapan.com/parts-assist-m-speed-mk63-4pot-caliper-brake-kit-s30-s31-b110-gc10-kpgc10-pgc10-kgc10-kpc10-pc10-gc110-gc111-gc210-gc211.html *I would ignore the rotor diameter callout in the RHD description. Also, found this on the "other forum" should be some info in here. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56999-looking-for-a-set-of-sumitomo-calipers-mk63/ Kameari should have a stock vented disc http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/Catalogue-v3/catalogue-075-20160731.pdf
  4. 1 point
    I used the eastwood on my car. It has the consistency of water, so cover under the car when you spray it because it will start coming out of all the holes, seams, cracks, etc.
  5. 1 point
    Thanks for the feedback! 'Plug and play' is definitely the goal here. Re-engineer as little as possible. Good news is that the STI diffs are getting cheaper. They've gone down a couple hundred from when I sourced one for my 510 a few years ago. I'd run the same setup for my 280z but I'm working on a potential R200 solution instead. If I understand your question, the OEM STI inner housing is not swap-compatible with the axle I source. I tried several ideas with no luck. The R180 STI stubs are welded onto the CV housing in 3 different locations. One weld along the entire perimeter of the stub's flange, three .4" plug welds through the flange into recessed pockets within the housing, and finally one large plug weld on the underside of the flange through the center of the housing. It's not coming off.
  6. 1 point
    Motor is rated for 120 hp 179 ft.lbs peak. I should get somewhat better acceleration around town than the stock L28 (particularly since I get peak torque now from 0-3500 RPM), but with a reduced top speed. Continuous power output is only ~40hp, so based on that and gearing/drag calcs I've found online puts top speed around 90-100 mph (this car has the 5-speed transmission), which IMO is plenty fast for a 40 year old tin-can of a car. I expect around 90-100 miles of range out of this once everything is dialed in (suspension leveled out, front aero cleaned up, etc).
  7. 1 point
    I was supposed to get the fuel hoses done, I ordered 5/8" and was sent 1/4" so I'm put off another week from finishing my fuel system. Still have plenty to do so next on the plan was to get the wiring done. This week I was able to get the rear section done. This is the first time I ever rewire a car and I think I'm doing pretty good from the condition the wiring was in before. I reused the old connectors with new terminals where I could instead of splicing new wires with old wires. It doesn't seem like a lot but it took a lot of time to research and plan what wires from the EZ harness goes into factory locations. Next week I'll have the front finished then may need help from a buddy to do the ignition and dash. I'm just saying, if I ever get rid of this car the next person will get a deal, the interior has been stripped, POR-15'd and Lizard Skin'd, new wiring and new interior ready to go in. And that's just a start. Video below, Subscribe if you don't mind. I'm working at getting better at making them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQTnTDAq1U8&t=9s
  8. 1 point
    Don't do this. Have patience, and spend more money (if necessary, vastly more money!) on a car with fewer problems. Otherwise you'll spend 5 years doing rust-repairs, 5 more years doing structural reinforcement, and 5 more years nursing your wounds after you realize in year 11 that new rust has already formed where you had replaced the old. Alternatively - and it sorely pains me to say this - look for a less rare, less rust-prone vehicle of comparable low weight... such as a Mazda Miata.
  9. 1 point
    Thanks for the welcome and the heads-up on community vibe. Honestly, my 'home' Datsun forum 'The510Realm' can also have some passionate members. I'm fine with respectful scrutiny as it's often just a 'why' or 'prove' question which is the basis of Critical Thinking and how we eventually engineer improvements - and the birth of these axles to be honest. The 510Realm thread that John linked to above was my coming out party, and the goal was to bring these CVs to the community Datsun gurus to scrutinize to death. Trusted members were given more in-depth engineering background and their subsequent honest opinions is posted for all to see. CV vs U-Joint is sort of like Fuel injection vs carb IMO. I nicely tuned carb setup runs pretty damn good and it's only 'disadvantage' to Fuel Injection is overall refinement (weather, startup, MPG). Both setups can run well and offer a specific experience. If a customer is looking for additional smoothness/refinement (basis for Restomoding), then any CV is a viable consideration. My 'business model' is a little unique, as previously mentioned DatsunRestomods is not my livelihood/source of secondary income, nor do I need it to be. This is my way to give back to the Datsun community and to fulfill a craving to create out-of-the-box solutions (and there's some good ones coming up IMO). The scope of my 'selling' will be limited to the vendor section. I'll post a thread there when ready along with pics of S30 installs - several are out there already.
  10. 1 point
    Mpg depends largely on engine management: carburetor vs. fuel injection, camshaft profile and so forth. 20 mpg should be readily attainable even with a more aggressive engine build. However, truly high efficiency, in the sense of a modern sports car, will be hard to attain - even with the 240Z's weight advantages. The reason is lousy drag coefficient... the bane of good highway mileage. To answer your questions: 1. Do as little as possible, at least initially! Complete the swap, get the engine running and the car sorted out. Engine mods can come later. 2. This is entirely subjective and situational. So enterprising drag-racers are pushing 500-700 hp (or more!) without molesting the "stock" look. 3. Never, ever ever install a non-overdrive transmission in a "daily driver" Z! Your application is screaming for a T5. 4. Initially, do nothing. Between your relatively weak stock 350 and the stock wheels/tires, the R180 differential in your 240Z should be adequate. Later you can swap in the much stronger R200. Search the "drivetrain FAQ" for model years/varieties from which to swap the R200. The #1 discriminator between failure and success, is the condition of the Z that's about to become the swap candidate. Rust? Overall condition? How is the suspension? The brakes? Do things work in general? Are bits falling off? Rubber? Plastic? Doors close properly? Dents/body damage? Electrical systems? You're about to do an engine swap. Don't also make it a restoration. The #2 discriminator is falling into the "while I'm at it" malaise. Do as little as possible! Laziness is always its own reward, but sometimes it's also this best route to quick and definitive success. This is one such instance. Be strategically lazy!
  11. 1 point
    So I'm happy with the design, unfortunately this part of my project is on the back burner for the moment. Focusing on getting my engine back in and running. But I'm super happy with preliminary testing. The plan for now is going to be to print them in ABS, finish them with acetone smooth and regular sanding, then mount them up.
  12. 1 point
    Searching facebook never works that well for me. I love forums.
  13. 1 point
    Thx to nice people on this forum, I found wat i needed! John Meyer you rock. Thx again John. Joost
  14. 1 point
    The shop is finally finished. At least as far as the county is concerned. The inspector just signed off on the final inspection!!! Time to get back to work on the Velo Rossa.
  15. 1 point
    I did mine out of hockey puck. Quite cost effective.
  16. 1 point
    I can tell you that the reinforcement in the doors adds 10lbs per door. I'm not sure that the bumper reinforcement stuff weights quite that much, based on a rough estimate of the square inches of metal, and the weight per square inch based on the thickness of the metal. I'd guess more like 15-20lbs per end. Could be wrong. Other areas of the chassis where early 280Zs have extra weight are the front frame rails, which, IIRC, have a reinforcement on the inside, the lower rad support, the rear strut towers, subframes under the floor, lower rear quarters, various bracketry, and likely a handful of places where you can't see that something's been added. Later 280Zs have even more reinforcement, notably in the door jamb area, and the spare tire well/gas tank area. John C has a few posts on the differences, and I believe he mentioned some additional metal in the roof structure as well, although I'm not sure if that was all 280Zs or just later ones. The series one shells do use thinner metal, I checked a few areas with a micrometer, and compared between my early '71 and '76 280z, as well as a few pieces from a '72 240z. the early '71 sheet metal came in around 0.9mm, whereas the later sheet metal came in slightly thicker at about 1mm. I believe (I'd have to look it up to be sure) that John C has also said that the early 240Zs and later 280Zs are 300lbs difference, and the late 240Zs and early 280Zs are 100lbs difference.
  17. 1 point
    ++1 Fel-Pro. 9 years since build with no leaks!
  18. 1 point
    Posting from another forum by the user sfm6s524. I am the seller. You guys can ask questions here or contact me by etsy as i check that more. Original etsy listing here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/668444381/datsun-240z-260z-280z-sun-visor-bracket?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=car+sun+visor&ref=sr_gallery-1-5&frs=1 On a 71 240 Z I have, the piece that holds the sun visors in place that mounts beneath the rear view mirror, broke on the drivers side. It was pretty annoying having the visor flop around, and I finally took the visor off until I could locate a replacement part. Searched all over the place for another, no luck. Finally saw one on Etsy from a person who has a 3D printer named PlasticWiz, figured I'd give it a try. Removed my old one, which basically disintegrated while trying to pop it loose from the vinyl covered roof frame. Sanded the new ABS piece a bit and painted black. I suppose the "print lines" could be removed completely with a lot of work, but for this car I just wanted a functional piece. Here it is mounted ready to pop in the rear view mirror. I've never used a 3D printed part on any of my cars, but I must say this really did the trick for a difficult part to find. Anyway, just thought I'd post this since I couldn't find any recent help on this part. I may order another for my other Z just in case...
  19. 1 point
    An example of what to avoid... the "AC" axles. It'll be on the tag, but this seller put it on the shaft as well.
  20. 1 point
    Went digging in the junkyard today with the CV spider in my pocket. Turns out the 02 explorer has the same diameter shaft ends... but courser splines. The good news is its a solid heat treated shaft and its the same thickness its whole length, necking down only for the splines. I also called moser and talked to them about sending in a core shaft and paying for two pairs of CV axle spline service and they're happy to do it so long as they look everything over and it seams like it works. Cutting the heat treating off the hollow shafts just wasn't sitting well with me. I also discovered that the two left shafts are different on the ends in diameter and one had a slightly smaller cv joint pair... I'm guessing i got one v8 shaft and the other from a v6 car. Both are splined the same into the housing and at the hubs... but one is stronger than the other with bigger cv joints. The left and right v8 shaft have the same size cv joints... its just the spare left shaft had some differences. Going back to the junkyard tomorrow to compare my cv joint to the explorer outer cv. If they are the same internally i plan on building a hybrid cv. But if they're different I'll pay for 2 pairs of spline service and know that I'll never have to worry about the strength of those shafts...
  21. 1 point
    A large rubber mallet(like something you would have seen in Looney Tunes Acme style), and some strong legs is all we had to straighten the passenger side out in mine. I braced myself against the top of the door threshold for short bursts while my buddy welded the pans down to get them perfect. A harbor freight dolly set also comes in handy to get any small bumps out one your done. Thanks guys, I dont really have much to offer Hybridz these days so its the least I can do until I can make a donation. Ray
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