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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/22/20 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hey guys, I've been a long time lurker but just seeing if there would be any interest for a weld-in chassis strengthening kit. I couldn't find anything on the market, so I decided to make one myself. I'm located in Sydney, Australia and will happily ship these kits overseas if there is enough interest. To register your interest (no commitment or deposit required) just follow the group-buy format of e.g. 1. sabiauto 2. ... At the moment this is just to see if there is enough interest for me to mass produce it. This will be developed by myself, an ex-automotive engineer (I'm now in software of all places) and one of my ex-managers who is an ex-Prodrive rally engineer and ex-Holden engineer. The main priority for this kit is to: (i) Prevent cracks, tears and fatigue without loading up other areas (ii) Strengthen front and rear strut regions to retain car geometry (iii) Strengthen the floorpan and the tunnel. Naturally the tunnel will provide most of the cars mid-section strength, but we think it can be better tied in than just spot welded around the footwell. (iv) Maintain an OEM appearance after applying seam sealer. Anyone with a Z will know it's different, but otherwise it appears to be stock. Without a CAD model for the car, we cannot complete proper FEA modelling so in terms of how much hp or torque the chassis can support, it'll be up in the air. However in the past we've designed and engineered (for internal prototyping) engine swap and reinforcing kits to test different engine combinations in different chassis' for OEM manufacturers and we're also quite fond of the S2000 chassis as a benchmark design. If there is enough demand, I'll properly get it sorted with engineering drawings and work with a fab shop so each kit is toleranced, tested with a few Zs before mass production, professionally cut, bent and primed. Price-wise it will probably be in the range of $3000 AUD for a full kit. I have some light demand from a handful of fellow Aussies but we don't have that many Zs here. I spent a few hours inspecting the Z shell and it's probably going to end up as a 32-pc full kit. I've mocked out which areas I'd like to strengthen and did some calcs + impact considerations. This is not a replacement kit for a full roll-cage though, I am primarily looking to update the 240z chassis and ensure that it can adequately handle more power with spot welds popping off, chassis flexing, twisting and fatiguing. It will include: - 10 x square angle gussets (street: 8pc, performance: 10pc) - 4 x flat plates (street: 4pc, performance: 4pc) - 9 x rails / rail extensions (street: 6pc, performance: 9pc) - 6 x reinforcing structures (street: 2pc, performance: 6pc) - 2 x full sill length tubes (optional + performance only, this can only be installed if you have the outer sills removed) - 1x underbody butterfly brace (optional + performance only, bolt on part but requires you to drill through your floors) I'll probably make 2 kits with 2 optional extras: (a) Street kit (20-pc kit) (b) Performance kit (29-pc kit) (c) Options - 2x full sill length tubes - 1x underbody butterfly brace It will be something along the lines of this (NOTE: these are random photos we took off the internet of a kit for a mustang I think and an S2000 diagram as a guide);
  2. 1 point
    Hi All, I am JC, I currently live in Paris area (France), and after lots of japanese cars I had (S13, Civic, Corolla TS, GT86, EX37), I am currently buying an imported '78 280Z. Project is subject for full restoration, and maybe engine swap, as I currently have one in hands Although L28 seems to be a good base, so it is under consideration. Nice to find such a board See you all around!
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    Searching old posts will set you free. Do a search and then read posts in reverse order. Why because most 240z issues were resolved almost twenty years ago. Think of HybridZ as an encyclopedia. Turn the page......................
  5. 1 point
    You should, the original outer metal piece of the stock bushing has to come out to fit either Prothane or Energy poly bushings. I've done several in the shop - it has to come out. I installed Energy poly in my personal 260Z (Goldie) nearly 10 years ago (and, yes, I cut that barrel out - with a sawzall (but, I'm careful) and, I daily drive my car)). Please don't hit that with a hammer anymore.
  6. 1 point
    I'm not sure who owns the artwork, but that would be cool to do. Just a warning having witnessed quite a bit, group buys and such can get out of hand real fast especially with money and such involved. I know there are on demand printing outlets nowadays. A bit more pricey and more overhead, but benefit of being able to get the items out quickly and one at a time.
  7. 1 point
    I'm pretty sure you don't want to use epoxy over flash rust. I mean, I've never tried it, but I wager it's a bad idea...
  8. 1 point
    I spoke with Greg at Motorsport Auto today. They have been using the same vendor for these bushings for many years. Prothane I believe. He assured me that the inner sleeve is to remain in and they will PRESS in even though the bushing looks big. I will give it a try. Stay tuned.
  9. 1 point
    Some pretty good info here https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/134342-Dual-Clutch-Transmission-(DCT)
  10. 1 point
    Getting ready to paint the interior of the body shell. While working on this project, I have sort of been pondering how best to rustproof all the non-original lap joints that have resulted from the assorted modifications. Where possible, I primed the blind side of all the parts I welded on with epoxy, but there is still going to be bare metal (burned off) in close proximity to all the welds. There are also multiple seams where I removed the OEM seam sealer/paint and the epoxy in the course of stitch welding the shell. Since these cars like to rust as they come from the factory, and this specific one had pretty much dodged that bullet by living it's life in the desert, I did not want to add potential future corrosion areas....at least no more than absolutely necessary. Searching the internet for information on rustproofing car bodies during restoration revealed surprisingly little information. There is no consensus on the best way to do this (short of dip-priming, which for all practical purposes is unobtainable). As usual on the net, there is a wide variety of opinion, and those who seem to know the least are the ones who state their opinion in the most aggressive and obnoxious manner. I have some past experience with POR-15, some of it good, some not so good. But their recommendations for prep practically insisted on using their brand of metal prep followed by washing the surface with water. My project has huge areas of bare metal, and this just sounded like a questionable plan. I couldn't see how I could possibly dry it all quickly enough to avoid flash rust all over the place, including in many areas that I could not easily access to remove. I don't know if this is really absolutely necessary, or if POR-15 just wants to sell their metal prep. But I believed their advice, which led me to look at other products. So I tried "Rust Bullet". I tested it on some scrap metal, it adhered very well even with marginal prep, over light rust, you name it. It was also totally compatible with an overcoat of the epoxy primer I am using in the next step. It is an "apply on rust" product, which I wanted in case some unreachable surface rust has appeared in some of the lap joints during the time I have been working on the car. So after scuffing and cleaning everything, my next step was to apply Rust Bullet, with a brush, to all the joints where I felt there might be a danger of future corrosion. I chose the brush over spraying because it allowed me to force the chemical deep inside the joints in places where welding probably burned away all the primer. Next step is a light scuff on the Rust Bullet, overspray the joints with epoxy primer, seam sealer, then an overall coat of epoxy followed by single stage color. Then, Lizard skin sound/heat in specific areas and finally cover that with Raptor Liner. Thanks for looking.
  11. 1 point
    Crunch time! Still planning to test/tune in mid September and drive it to Nismo Fiesta in October. Shift actuator installed the transmission. Driveshaft arrived. Fixing leak on cam covers and while they are off we'll repaint them with a nice speckle red. I always loved the way Ferrari intakes looked with that texture. Lastly I'm converting the 3D printed canards into a mold to make carbon fiber parts.
  12. 1 point
    I made contact with Ohm on his personal fb page, got a quick reply. That was a couple of days ago. He was getting my request taken care of, so good to get a reply, and hopefully will get what I need soon. thanks for the input
  13. 1 point
    Catching up on everyone's kits as fast as I can, here's what the complete cradle looks like with the optional crossmember. Snapped the picture before we bolted it back into Kyle's v12 datsun project.
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