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  1. 1 point
    Hi all! I bought my original 71’ in 2000, when I was 16. I had to sell the car to move across country. Now that I am settled again, I just bought another 71’. I’m not new to Z’s, but it has been a while. I was a mechanic specializing in Nissan’s back in HS and college. Now I’m an engineer working in the alternative energy industry. my old Z had an L28et with a T3/T4 and IV Supra intercooler. I did all the work myself, and intend to do so again. the one I just purchased seems to be an old SCCA racer. It has a fuel cell, complete cage, engine fire suppression system, stripped completely. Seller claims it has an R200 LSD. While I certainly recognize the R200 back there, I’m still suspicious of whether it is an LSD. its got the P90A hydraulic head, but still sitting on the L24 block. Must have been necessary to qualify in its class. anyways, just wanted to introduce myself!
  2. 1 point
    That's just what the Actor, Mark Rolston would say.....
  3. 1 point
    Thank you, I was coming up short! This is great info! What a compilation of pictures! This was especially helpful to visualize how people tie in the front strut towers to the rocker panels inside the front fender panels! I think most everything else I've done with my cage, it's pretty extensive. This has all been helpful to help me visualize it all, thanks again to you both!
  4. 1 point
    Interesting comments and I think that you have nailed the crucial weaknesses in the stock S30 body for race use. Basically the fire wall does not sufficiently connect forward to the front suspension load points. Also the attachment of the front X member which bolts to the rails, the stock four bolt setup allows flex, it's simple to add a couple of brackets forward to bolt to the rails.
  5. 1 point
    I followed @grannyknotsuggestion. Spent $10 on a canister from a Miata at a junkyard. It makes a huge difference with the fumes!
  6. 1 point
    I think that they're showing "boxed" body components. Integral reinforcement as you said. Like the rocker panels are one of the most important structural elements of the unibody. People often overlook that area when dealing with rust. The "frame rails" are just added stiffeners. They'll replace the stiffeners and leave the rusted out rocker panels. So, when looking at the cowl, or any body area, look for those reinforced areas. But, I'm not a structural or automotive engineer, so don't put too much weight in to my words. Somebody had a thread on the site where they really went deep in to how to reinforce the body. I think that they even built a framework to load the frame and measure deflection. It might be in an FAQ area, or might be found by a search.
  7. 1 point
    @seattlejester KYB shocks were installed months before the clunk began, I know what you mean by the spacers and didnt need to use any as the struts sit fine in their housings. I should have mentioned, that before doing the mustache bar bushings, diff mount+straps, trans mounts, I had much much worse clunk then I have now. after all that work was completed I had no clunking or noise from the rear end for a few months of driving. now all of a sudden I have this new clunk but its slightly different sounding compared to the original clunk which was solved at the time by the work mentioned above. I dont really ever launch the car so dont know, but will try tomorrow. as for the gland nuts I guess I can pull the halfshaft and check the torque because I did replace that wheel bearing recently, lets say about 2 months ago? @jhm I really really hope its a bad bushing in the rear LCA! I just visually inspected them yesterday but that doesnt mean too much I guess, aside from just staring them down I will try and see if I can stick a flat bar in there and check if theres a lot of play. for the wheels I have swapped them back to front and still the same issue, shaky steering wheel at certain highway speeds, otherwise its quite a SMOOTH (lol..) ride. I wouldnt be surprised if the el cheapo tire shop I took them to did a bad job or missed a out of round wheel/flat spot on tire, they have a very basic and old tire balancer so wont be using them anymore. will look for a shop that does road force measurements and try again. I plan to update this whenever I figure out the issue. and last but not least.. @NewZed its quite funny you mention satisfying intuition. when I saw that you had replied to the thread for the first time I said to myself, I remember this guy oh boy this will be good... and lo and behold it was! but I do really appreciate the grammar lessons, seriously I do. seems I must have rubbed you the wrong way by saying I 'hated this car' or something, and thats too bad as I was really hoping we could be good old buddies..😭.. oh well
  8. 1 point
    I have used both the Maxima and 240SX rear calipers on my Z cars. The problem is that the bleeders do not point straight up such that air remains trapped in the cylinder. Wasted lots of time and fluid. Remove caliper with flex line connected method: You can remove the caliper while leaving the flex line connected. Block the piston so it can not move otherwise when you pump the brakes you will just blow the piston out of the cylinder and you will be very very sad. Hold the caliper so the bleeder points up and shake the caliper while your accomplice pumps the brakes. Repeat. Repeat etc. Speed bleeders (type with spring and plug inside or check ball inside) make this job easier. Bench bleed caliper method: You can try what I came up with this week: bench bleed the calipers before installing them. While prepping the new calipers I noticed my MC bench bleeding kit on the bench. The fittings used for the MC will also fit the caliper. I used the fittings/hoses from my MC bench bleeding kit (O'reilley's) plus a huge syringe I found at a grocery store. Connect the syringe with hose to the speed bleeder. Screw in a plastic push-on hose fitting (from a bench bleeding kit) into the inlet of the caliper with a hose to a bottle to catch the fluid. Push fluid into the caliper with the syringe being careful not to push any bubbles in the hose into the caliper. Once the caliper is full, and no bubbles are seen, close the speed bleeder and plug the inlet with a M10 x 1.0 bolt. I was amazed at how much air flowed out of the caliper. It took about three full syringes of fluid to get all of the fine bubbles out. After installing the calipers (see procedure below), and doing one side at a time, it only took three pumps to get a firm pedal for each caliper. Steps: Bench bleed calipers being sure to tighten the speed bleeder and install a M10x1.0 bolt in the caliper inlet when done to keep the caliper sealed. Fill MC reservoir with fluid. Push brake pedal with your hand and block it in place with a stick between the seat and the pedal. This blocks the fluid return port in the MC so fluid will not flow out of the MC. Remove old caliper leaving the flex line attached and hang it from the spring with some wire. This keeps the brake line sealed and prevents any fluid loss while installing the new caliper. Install new caliper and pads. Move the flex line from the old caliper to the new caliper. Since you blocked the return port in the MC there should be almost no fluid drips from the open flex line. Attach hose and catch bottle to the speed bleeder. Open the speed bleeder and pump. The first pump will go to the floor because the piston will move out taking up the slack between the piston and the brake pad/rotor. The second and third pump will firm up the pedal. I just did this this week. It was the quickest brake bleed I have done with Maxima/240SX calipers. No wasted fluid too. MC bleeder kits are available from O'reilley's. They contain a variety of plastic MC outlet fittings, but for some reason only one M10 x 1.0 fitting so I buy two. With your brake set up your brake pedal should feel about stock. I will post some pictures later today.
  9. 1 point
    Hey guys new member from Vancouver BC. Finally got my hands on a 73 240z. Needs some passenger quarter panel work from first inspection but will probably find more as I dig into the car. Struggling with which way I wanna go with this car... do I swap in a ls, rb, etc. Currently also building a 77 trans am that’s had a lot of work done. Should be done soon... well at least I hope so lol
  10. 1 point
    I had a hell of a time getting my SBC V1.0 started on my first go around, replaced just about everything external to the engine with new stuff. Turns out it was way too retarded and any attempt to start failed or resulted in a backfire. Here is what I finally did and suggest that you do as well. -Remove #1 spark plug and valve cover (removing the timing cover is preferred but not easy) -Find top dead center of the compression stroke via methods already discussed (align crank and cam dots if you have the cover off, more accurate) -Take note of the position of your harmonic balancer "zero" line and mark it on the timing cover (I use paint marker) -Line up the rotor with #1 spark plug pole on the cap -disconnect vacuum advance -Rotate the distributor 15-20 degrees counterclockwise (if you have a clear cap this is very easy, I usually set mine so the rotor is resting just before the leading edge of the cap pole) It should fire right off, I use this method now every time I have to resent timing for various reasons and it works without fail. Now this is only a starting point and you will yield too much advance to most distributors but makes for easy first starts if you are doing a new engine break in. What I have learned is that it takes a pretty serious carb or intake issue for the car not to start AT ALL, running poorly is a different issue. If it still won't fire run a wire directly from the battery positive to the distributor 12v terminal and check your ground connections, the problems a bad ground can cause are immense and frustrating.
  11. 1 point
    Had another good day out this past weekend, dry with temps in the 80's so it was near perfect. I beat my previous personal track record by 4 seconds and was hanging around with some prepped spec Boxsters, they were faster in the corners I was faster in the straights. I am going to have to go to different rear brake setup though. The 280zx kit has been giving me issues with dragging/sticking that is causing me to miss some track time to adjust and bleed, keep warping rotors. I don't think they can handle the heat and abuse of slowing the car from 140 mph so I am gong with the kit I probably should have in the first place, Wilwood 2 piston. Other than that I am really happy with the car's balance still. @heyitsrama I am running a fairly stock rear end with just KYB struts and German springs. I am planning on A-arms and coilovers this winter mostly for alignment tuning. I am not sure if you consider a suspension mod but I have a welded rear tower brace that ties in to the roll hoop I replaced every bushing with poly stuff. Also running no rear bar. In the front I have the same strut/spring combo with T3 NCRAs and the triangulated brace, and 280Z bar. The last two, and to answer your question, are mandatory in my book on a Z that gets driven hard. Those were my two latest additions and completely transform the car for a few hundred dollars. The best way I can explain how the car felt before is vague, disconnected, and unpredictable which I would attribute to poor suspension geometry (after lowering) and very weak suspension connection in the front. I think you could get to the same place with control arms but those are 3-4x the price of the NCRAs (comes down to how much adjustment you want) and . I don't know that the brace actually increases grip but it makes the car FEEL better and respond more consistently corner to corner which is worth way more that a few seconds off a lap to me. I have two conclusions (which are much the same as those before me) the S30 needs major help in front suspension connection (side to side) and frame to frame connection (front to rear) once you start eliminating the unibody as the main carrier for suspension loading the car feels much better. Second the front suspension geometry is a mess when you lower the car, I would wager that given the same spring rate a standard ride high Z is faster around a track than a lowered one, all other factors being equal.
  12. 1 point
    So, I guess it worked , I am able to get a bit of camber and a bit of toe equal on both sides. Easier to control on throttle oversteer now. Here is how I spent my weekend
  13. 1 point
    So been a long time but I finally got a retune after all these years. Only updated the fuel pump to an intank aeromotive phantom stealth and changed the boost to 14lbs. On a mainline dyno made 400hp which dyno jet numbers is 440ish on 14lbs which is exactly where I wanted to be. If i pushed it to 18 I probably can break 430 maybe 450 tops but no need at the moment. All this with 6th cylinder on 100psi while the rest are at 175/180!
  14. 1 point
    the girls.pdf Hello, My name is Mike. I live in Gulfport MS and work in Charleston SC (for now). I've had this 1978 280 Z for about 3 years. It hadn't run for over 15 years when I got it. I had it running in a weekend …. And then the work began. I've actually got a line on one more in Mo but that's a different story. I love old cars and the challenge that they are to make them the jems that they use to be.
  15. 1 point
    Yeah, the car is gutted now and making rotisserie mounts to connect to bumper brackets today. A HybridZ member sent over a link with chassis measurements to double check the chassis is square before welding in SFC.
  16. 1 point
    Taking orders now for my S30 super-lite strut-bars, available in August. Lightest on the market not forgetting that 'light is right' ! 5% off the parts' price for the first 50x orders*. *8x firm orders already placed as at Independance Day. US$260 £212 CAN$358 AUS$381 Kits so far are : front and rear bars front bar only New nuts and washers for the strut tops front and/or rear Price list in multiple currencies attached. Later, new front and rear caps will be available for S30s and S130s along with a bar kit for the S130s.
  17. 1 point
    While I have my dash out, I thought I would tend to the many non-working dash lamps. I'm replacing all the bulbs, but in fact I have found only one bad bulb (cigar lighter lamp). All other problems are caused by poor connection between the outer contact (i.e. not the base) and the bulb. Most of these can be fixed by cleaning or tweaking. But in one case, I got too agressive with the tweaking and broke off the contact. Using tin snips, I cut out some 0.008" phosphor bronze to match the original. I didn't attempt to create the original 'retention tang', but instead chose to rely on a snug fit by filing the sides to fit. I hope this helps somebody else with this problem. R
  18. 1 point
    SO..... I finished the job last night, and took her out today. What a change. It's no F1 or lowered monster, but it doesn't squat like it used to when I start off (it went from what felt like 2-3 inches to .5-1), won't dip when I brake, even hard (from what felt like 3-4 inches to maybe 1) and won't lean very much anymore as I turn. BUT most importantly, it'll now stick to the road. In the last few months, driving it felt like it was floating on the road, and not like a Bentley might cruise gently, but more like walking on a grate, where you foot is flat, but nor making contact everywhere. That's what it felt like anyways, and it wasn't reassuring. Now, it feels like any other newer car, and follows the road and sticks to it, mostly. It's very satisfying. I can't compare to the stock shocks (new), but the KYB are very satisfactory. Probably a little but harder/harsher than stock but not too much, and if you have a car like this you won't mind a little extra "sportiness". Very curious what it'd feel like with new springs though.... So my final though : shocks alone are definitely worth it if you don't want to spring for a new set of springs (yeah, lame pun, but it was originally unintended). (Also, I just edited another post up here where I suggest anyone doing the shock (or shock/spring) job should buy all new boots and bumper stops from the get go, without even consider not buying any. )
  19. 1 point
    Take off your afm boot that runs to the throttle body. Look at the throttle plate area. See if you are gummed up around the throttle plate. It gums up over time from the crank case and purge valves, that recirculate blow by gasses. It will not allow enough air flow when the plate is closed. Clean it up the throttle plate and area around it with carb cleaner. Then re-install the boot and see if solved your issue.
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