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Meh, he's a paid supporter of the site. I figured I'll give him his moneys worth

I have two heads in stock as I type this so the head can actually be purchased. I can't help that you can't afford it. That's a feature not a bug. For the very beginning my goal was to provide the components so that talented engine builders could make the decisions on the types of components they wanted to use. Based on what I've seen and taking the pricing of the relatively simple L6 head as the baseline I highly doubt it. I'm not really sure what I did to put a burr under your saddle but you remind me of the guy that starts a fight in the line to get into the club because he can't afford the cover charge. Just get out of line and go somewhere else.

Small fiberglass update. I got the general shape made, and it's ready for trimming and bonding together. I'd like to test fit it on the car, and make sure the radiator is picking up in the right spot. Excited for this, we've got fully ducted air going into and coming out of the radiator now!

You should really just post on FB because they love trolls and useless posting there

Well, winter was quiet! Spent most of the winter skiing, rather than being cold in the shop, but spring has sprung and we have some exciting progress on the car. Since the car is in good mechanical shape, the big to-do's have been cosmetic. Mainly the air dam! It's such a cobbled together thing that I knew I had to make some improvements. To that end, I bought a 3d printer, whipped out my iphone and got to designing some new end areas. I'm keeping the same spirit of the airdam as before, but symmetrical sides (just flipped this piece and printed again) meant that I can be confident in the tolerances that I'm working with on both sides of the car! Pretty impressed how well this lined up fresh off the printer, and from a medium quality iphone photogrammetry scan of the front end. I opted to use the PLA as a core for the fiberglass layup, we'll see how that does long term. People have issues with PLA as a finished surface as the "glass transition" temperature is pretty low, and normal temps for sunny car parts will result in significant softening. I think inside 5 layers of fiberglass it should be just fine. (Glassed, sanded down and filler primer. It's easily the nicest part of the airdam at this point!) There is a pretty good gap between the bottom of the air dam and the splitter, so I printed up another whole piece that I will use to pull a direct positive part from. I don't want this to be super heavy duty, so I'm not going to encase the PLA core. (printed and glued) This piece had some scaling issues, even though I modeled it from the same references as the airdam pieces. Oh well! Final bit was that I really needed to make the car all one color again, and install some of the fun stuff I had made up before the winter. I had aspirations of painting the car, but when that plan met with the reality of budget, I opted to go back and vinyl wrap the front end again. The hood might get a re-do, but otherwise I'm rather happy with how it all turned out! Hoping to have the car mostly back together this weekend, and then aiming for an auto-x event at the end of June to shake out the cobwebs from car and driver!

Thanks, calZ. I switched my throttle cable at the TB from the very top position to the bottom one. I also tried the middle one (not much success there). The car feels normal again.

Is the R200 from a 1975 280Z? They had an odd flange size. The other 280Z R200's will swap over directly. Your original 240Z driveshaft should work with those. The R180 and the R200 are the same length. The 75 280Z R200 flange is an oddball.

Sorry for no updates for awhile. I dug into the carbs and figured out that my float levels were completely off. One was set very rich and the other was set very lean. After properly setting the float levels, the car accelerates much smoother and does not feel like it is going to rattle itself apart above 4500 rpms. It will rev up to the yellow line now, and has better power above 4500 now, and it is smooth revs. It still feels like it is missing some power above 4000rpms, but it is way better than before. I believe the issue is that my carbs are still running lean. No matter what adjustments I make, they run lean. I do have a very small air leak at the butterfly valve shafts. Not much I can do about that right now. Z therapy carbs are out of the budget at the moment. I have not yet purchased SM needles, I will do this soon, and i am hoping that they will help get the carbs to run a little more rich. Thanks for all the help! Any further advice is appreciated!

10 years later and I finally got around to doing it. I used the sheet of ABS I bought 10 years ago and has been sitting in my garage since. I got a big piece of very thin plastic, probably thinner than poster board to make a template and kept trimming it until it fit OK. Once the actual piece was in, used a heat gun to make it fit the best I could. It's not perfect, but will probably keep 98% of the crud out from behind the fenders. I removed the 2 bottom fender bolts and pulled it out some, and so much crud fell out.

Dude. I've said this multiple times. I still make and sell the heads. I have 2 in stock right now. I sold 3 in 2024 and one so far in 2025. I also sold one of my new KN16 4 cylinder heads this year as well.

I’ve been making an effort to get back to the forums . I usually post a link to here when people ask about stuff that’s been documented here for decades . My last job as an over the road locomotive engineer gave me lots of time in hotels to document . Now I’m retired and busier than ever - but use that as an excuse to not post . The forums saved me money and time and I’d like to pay it forward ! Now I’m the local Z guru which has made some cool connections and projects . I wish there was a better marketplace than FB - but it’s probably the best thing about FB- lol

Also working on getting the radiator extractor wrapped up. This part has been a LONG time coming, and after a lot of pausing since I wanted to do it with carbon fiber, I've cheaped out and will just make it out of fiberglass and waft black paint towards it. This was a pretty fun thing to build, and figure I can get y'all up to speed! First tho, everybody in the way-back machine to March 2024. First thing to do was figure out how to make the shape. I started by cutting two huge holes in the hood, and start taping cardboard and paper to connect the three shapes. The challenge with this method is that I've firmly attached the hood to the car with tape, and because the shape is mostly paper, there was no good way to remove it to do anything with it! I decided here that expanding foam was going to be necessary to keep the shape and give me something to work with. I managed to squeeze a trash bag around the radiator, and bought some 2 part expanding foam from Amazon and started pouring. This process took SOOO MUCH FOAM! So much foam. I had to re-order 3 times to fill the shape out. Two things to note for folks thinking about doing this: This foam expands quite a bit requiring a pretty rigid form, and it gets HOT. The foam expands as part of an exothermic reaction, and will get up to about 180*. This gets worse if you pour a lot of foam on top of other foam, so you really want to let it cure and do it's thing before you layer it up. Once the thing was full, I trimmed the outlet and then took the hood off and realized the Big Chungus (tm) that I had created. Realized here that I forgot we need to make space for the air filter. Also, realizing that all the cardboard and other crap I used to make the shape is now glued forever to the foam. The drivers side channel is also quite a bit bigger than the passenger side, as the passenger side dodges a number of cooling tubes. Some shaping is clearly needed. Luckily because this is 2 part foam (never NEVER use Great Stuff foam for this), it was easily shaped with saws, grinders and other tools, was sandable and fillable with bondo. Ended up with a good shape! Last thing to do was fill in the area where the radiator sat so the fiberglass has a mounting flange. I then wrapped the whole thing in metal tape to promote reasonable release and it promptly sat in the shop for a year. I started fiberglassing it up this week, and have the bottom of the shape glassed in. My plan is to use plastic and more metal tape to create this piece in 2 parts, rather than trying to break, dissolve and generally remove the foam by disastrous methods. It's looking pretty alright, hoping to get the rest of it glassed up today!

I commented on a post about scammer groups and said that if we were still on forums there would be better control of this. Since there are 9 bazillion S30 groups it hardly got seen and the one comment was "forums are too cumbersome" I go there because that's where the customers are but I'll be dammed if I'm going to answer stuff that I know for a fact has been documented in detail on one of the three forums. The answer to every question I see should be "google it"

It’s been a while since I’ve read on this thread. I wish I was # 23 ! Wish the thread did see more action as well as the site . I’m so tired of the FB shit

No idea on the owner but wow! I would have grabbed that hatch for the history in it alone. Rare to see these in a junkyard these days as well, very cool.

Only part I could find was the capacitor. When I removed them from the 2 clocks I had, the one from the non working clock tested good, and the one from the slow clock tested bad. I replaced them both. Now the slow clock works and holds time, but the non working one must have another issue because it still doesn't move.

05-07-2025. My custom ordered fender stickers came in. I covered them (and the rear stickers) with some PPF clear to make them permanent.

Thanks!! It's been a bit, refinding the stoke has been a challenge, but I'm getting excited again. Life changes (wife going back to school) means the race budget is way reduced this year, but I got my eye on a couple days.

Wow...she's looking great, Ben! Nice rebuild after that off at GTA a while back.

Thanks. Glad to see someone running something that wide. Car looks fun, good luck at your next event.

315/30r18 rear and 295/30r18 front. I think the rear wing is 72" wide with a 13" chord length. I wanted the wing to match the rear track width which is quite a bit wider than factory. Got the airdam painted and mounted this weekend, and finalized the splitter wire mounting positions. I have to fiberglass up the blending piece, but that should be pretty speedy once I get material. A couple photos of the mounting/airdam fixed on: I have a radiator to hood duct/extractor that i'll throw glass up while I'm at it in the next few days.

The actual ZCD L brackets themselves were not consistently bent. The widest gap I measured was almost 1/4" which I suppose can be filled in with weld, but is absolutely unacceptable for my standards. There's definitely a spectrum of skill and expectations when it comes to metalwork. My buddy had floors and rockers put into his 60s mustang by a mobile welder...sure it had new metal but the fit and welding was terrible. I took the time and massaged the metal to 0 gaps all around on both rails before welding. I shouldn't be surprised at this point tbh, even the door hinge kit from ZCD was garbage. I ended up having custom bushings machined after zinc coating for perfect door actuation. With that said I probably won't learn my lesson and will order more stuff from them to fix in the future 😂.

05-02-2025. I got my shift knob with button. I got it from Speed Dawg Shift Knobs. Top notch shop. Shipped it very fast, well packaged and I even got a military discount. If you need a shift knob check this guy out! I got it installed, and all wired in to my Snow Performance Stage 1 Water/Methanol injection kit. I also got my Vacuum Block from Amazon, and got it all hooked up, so the vacuum needed for my Boost Gauge and J&S Safeguard is more professional. I also added a pic where you can see my passenger well is all cleaned up. Good day!

I got my Datsun Z Car Series Oil Sending Unit Relocation / Remote Block done! I have only one for sale now, but more are on order. I am pretty proud of this design. Three outlet remote oil sending unit block. Metal 3D printed out of aluminum to look stock and mimics the 240z, 260z and 280z brake proportioning block design. Block has 3 outlets, all are 1/8 NPT. Comes with a custom length -3AN hose and one 1/8 NPT -3AN fitting and either a 1/8 BSPT or 1/8 NPT for the engine block side of the hose. Stock sending unit on a 240z is BSPT, this will require a NPT sending unit like this. [https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137](https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137) No sending units come with this order. Pictures of sending units are just for reference. Link: https://www.m2racing.com/shop/p/datsun-z-car-series-oil-sending-unit-relocation-remote-block

Drove around yesterday with heat shield on . The tune is pretty rough and and sometimes the car wanted to die from starvation -scary . I used timing to lower idle after reading about a trick to deal with hit idle . Might have to call on Richard to help me remotely . Lots of rain right now so driving time is scarce .

my acc belt runs like this, that blue part gets very hard flappery sound, diesel runs like it runs, my alternator is pretty light but it doesnt have clutch wheel. i could add another pulley to oil pump mount

What size tires will you be running? What rpm are you expecting to set as redline? Also, your calculator has the speed profiles for the option 3 and option 4 swapped. You will have a higher top speed with the 3.3 gear.

Can't be tired yet! It finally got to the point where we were building a car. We decided early on to go with vintage Datsun race suspension mods,parts and brakes from Design Products (dpracing.com), the super trick front crossmember from Apex Engineered and camber plates and Evolved steering knuckles from TechnoToyTuning (T3). As it turned out, when we got the rear struts installed the car was squatted in the rear. After taking some measurements, the struts were shortened to 240 length! After a night of tossing and turning, I did some research and discovered that T3 has a problem solver for that in the form of a riser block that works with their adjustable camber setup and it was problem solved!!

Blocked them. Works like normal now. Thanks

oil lines and where to put massive porsche 928 oil filter next on the list

hello, Some tiny small steps right now. I have started with the frame rails and have made the part that will go inside the car. 1.5mm steel that goes front to rear. New ones under the car are being made with a higher profile than standard, 45mm in front and 25 in the rear. Christian

Little update on this project. I daily drove this car to school all fall until I eventually blew the stock headgasket. I just needed to adjust the megasquirt pots to calibrate the ecu. Car sat most of the winter due to school work and 2 head bolts breaking when doing headgasket. Was easier to just pick up another n42 block, with good rings, hopefully no more oil burn. Looking forward to throwing in 440cc supra injectors with my 2mm kameari head gasket to turn the boost up. Hoping to just continue to clean up the bay this summer, and to start doing bodywork and rewrapping parts of the car.