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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/04/20 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start this section by clearly stating that you should not modify your proportioning valve. But, what fun would that be? In all seriousness, making changes to the proportioning valve to effect brake bias should be left to those with the proper tools and measurement devices, but if you have tweaked your vehicle beyond recognition, this may be your only solution to restore a sense of proper bias to your braking system. We’ll start here with three of the most basic rules regarding proportioning valve installation and selection. 1. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed if the factory unit is still in place. Proportioning valves in series with one another can do nasty, unpredictable things! 2. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed in-line to the front brakes. The effect would be to make your vehicle rear-biased before you could say “terminal oversteer.” Front brake line pressure should always be left alone – only the rear pressures should be considered for proportioning. 3. In all cases, the basic brake system balance needs to be close to optimized to start with. This is the only way that a proportioning valve can be effectively utilized. You should never assume that simply adding a proportioning valve will address all rear-bias conditions, as even the best proportioning valves must be well-matched to the target vehicle." https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia/d958a29e-4ebf-41fd-931f-bf7e4451801b/brake-proportioning-valves.pdf
  2. 2 points
    Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
  3. 1 point
    Spot on. I didn't have the time to email or call last night, but I sent them an email today with the pictures. I got a response in 4 minutes saying they'd take care of it, and another email 40 minutes later saying a new set with proper packaging would be on the way within a couple days along with a return label for the original set. I've never had to deal with T3 post-sale before, but it's good to know that their customer service is excellent.
  4. 1 point
    I spent the day making up brake lines to fit the 3 configurations, bleeding each one and testing while trying to record it all on video. As @JMortensen suggested, compressed air is NOT a good substitute for brake fluid when testing a prop valves as you will see. So to any future readers please ignore my conclusions in the first post. The Wilwood prop valve acted exactly as you would assume it would with each turn cutting off a bit more pressure until the minimum was reached. This testing was done on a 72/240z with a new 15/16" Master Cylinder, rebuilt 280z brake booster, all new Cunifer brake lines, SS flex hoses and Wilwood 120-6816 4 piston calipers on the rear. The fronts brakes were not tested. - the first configuration was 15/16" MC straight through to the calipers with NO prop valve and I assume no vacuum booster assist as the engine was not running. 1200 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the second configuration was with the stock 240z prop valve installed, 600 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the third was with the Wilwood 260-12627 prop valve installed and the stock prop valve removed, you’ll notice that with the Wilwood prop valve installed with the valve wide open there is a 100 psi decrease in the total pressure down to 1100 psi from 1200 in the 1st video. wide open, 1100psi 1 turn closed, 1050psi 2 turns 950psi 3 turns 950psi 4 turns 875psi 5 turns 750psi 6 turns 750psi 7 turns 650psi 8 turns 600psi 9 turns 600psi 10 turns 575psi 10.5 turns 575psi I took it out for a run with the prop valve turned all the way closed to 575psi and I that’s just about right. I warmed up the brakes a bit then tried a panic stop, PS rear lock up but none of the others. Tried the same thing again and the DS front locked up but none of the others so I’m pretty close but will continue to test and play with it. So the front brakes are now getting 1200psi and rear 575psi. https://youtu.be/FWQ2V-w1Av4 For some reason the 3rd vid won't embed but the link is above.
  5. 1 point
    Fuel reserve warning light stopped working a while back so (after confirming continuity of the yellow/blue wire from the sender to the light) I changed the sender and the issue has been resolved. I used a replacement unit from @zcardepot.com which is of excellent quality, has the exact same factory connections and cost $78 (compared to the unit offered by MSA at $200 plus you need to splice in a different connector!!!). I made a wrench out of 2" PVC pipe to turn the lock ring very easily, which makes the whole job a breeze. With a Dremel, I made 4 slots on the inside edge of one end of a 6" section of straight pipe to coincide with the 4 crests that jut out from the top of the lock ring. A 90 degree elbow at the other end of the pipe makes for easy turning. I also cleaned up and painted the edges of the access port with bed liner, and replaced the weatherstripping foam on the inside of the cover. Pics below.
  6. 1 point
    When I designed my new cross-member, I added notches to positively locate it laterally relative to the frame. The bolts don't take any shear load.
  7. 1 point
    I also made a front strap out of some 1/8” cable with some tubing around it. I already have a rt mount so if it translates any noise I’ll take it out.
  8. 1 point
    Depends on the suspension. If it has basically stock suspension you can install them lower, but when you start moving to shorter coilovers or sectioned strut housings, you start running out of room for the wheel to move up into the wheel well real fast. Camber plates make it a lot worse, especially on a 280 because the strut isolators are 3" tall vs 2" for 240Z. I cut my fenders and then put the suspension together with no spring and compressed and realized that my tire was hitting metal. Had to cut again much higher to prevent that from happening . In my case I cut the fenderwells so that they were flat from the top of the arch in the well to the outside of the quarter. Basically couldn't have cut any higher and made more room for the tire unless I had removed the whole wheel tub and rebuilt it. When the strut hits the bumpstop, there is about 1/2" space from the top of the tire to the fenderwell. I think the bumpstop is more than 1/2" long but I have super stiff springs so hopefully I won't have any issues. It's a pet peeve of mine to see ZG flares mounted way too low in the rear with really wide tires. Just obvious that nobody took the time to see if there was clearance for the tire, they just held the flare up to the body and marked and cut it there with no thought as to functionality. The other one that really bugs me is the tire and wheel being 1" from the inside curve of the flare, hellaflush style. You know that tire will hit the inside of the flare almost instantly, but still people do it all the time...
  9. 1 point
    Always evolving. Stay tuned for some rear end work. I have found I have slight differences in my rear trailing arms. Even with the adjustable eccentric bushes I am unable to get any neg camber or toe on my right rear. Rather than reinvent the wheel, or add a new subframe we are gonna work on the mounts. The 9 inch rear cost me way to much to start from scratch.....
  10. 1 point
    It's been a while, but the car was painted. I haven't seen it in almost 5 years, but I'll be picking it up next month. Really looking forward to tearing it back apart and putting some finishing touches on my LM7 swap.
  11. 1 point
    battery-tray-area-patch This is at skillard.com for $120.
  12. 1 point
    There is a company that makes a reproduction Auto Panel Solutions, I see their stuff on facebook.
  13. 1 point
    It would also help to get the car on the ground and settle the suspension before making judgements. Sometimes things can look weird when everything in the suspension is drooped.
  14. 1 point
    All, I think I was able to resolve my wire identification question (using the FSM). From my combo switch to the Datsun side of the harness: red/blue = blue yellow/green = blue/white yellow/black = blue/yellow Based on the pinout provided in the swap thread(s), this would leave me with black = ground and blue/red = 12V+. I have not successfully tested yet, but I will confirm once I do. ………......…………………….. 70' Datsun 240Z __________________ 91' Honda civic wiper motor blue/white-------pin 86 ________ Pin 87A-------blue/white blue-------------pin 87 ________ pin 30--------blue Blue/red-----------pin 85-------pin 85----------green/black Black----------------------to------------------black Blue/yellow----------------to-------------------blue/yellow _______________________________________________________
  15. 1 point
    That is definitely repairable on the surface but be prepared to have to replace at least twice as much as what looks rotted. Fortunately, that rot is forward of the engine cross member so I doubt you will have any structural issues. The inside can be extremely difficult to access, damn near impossible in alot of cases. I did a ton of repair work between the firewall and the cross member and I actually ended up cutting out the bottom of the frame in a long segment to make sure I got most of the rust. After welding in fresh coated steal, I drilled a hole open in the frame and sprayed in rust reformer, let that set up for a few days and then hit it with internal frame coating. Opening up the bottom of the frame all the way back to the firewall will give you access to the inside and let you determine what needs to be done. Fortunately, the vertical sides are what carry the load here, the bottom can usually be removed without compromising structural integrity as long as the motor is out of the car, which it appears to be. I would just assume that you will have to replace the entire bottom of the frame from half a foot forward of that rot all the way back to the firewall. It slopes down towards the firewall so if any moisture was trapped in the frame it would accumulate towards that area most likely.
  16. 1 point
    https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/?&page=4#comments
  17. 1 point
    Thanks all. I don’t have major cutting to do. My rockers are solid, just repair one dogleg and floors are the structural parts. The other parts are cosmetic sheet metal work and scraping the undercoating.
  18. 1 point
    My build has moved on quite a bit now, you make a list of things that need to be done and then keep finding other stuff to add to the list. I am very pleased with what the trimmer has done for me, all in leather and a decent price as well. I had to paint the floors and fit the sound deadening before it could go for trim, I also did a dry build of the dash and seats etc. Here some pics for those interested.
  19. 1 point
    Always one of my favorites Yasin. Please make some new videos of this car and the 951 as well.
  20. 1 point
    Here are the steps I took to make the unit work in my Z Thanks for the drop box mtnickel https://www.dropbox.com/s/uwtsk97izkkz4uo/240Z-steering.pptx?dl=0
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