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  1. Today
  2. 5-23-2022 UPDATE: Well, my phone crashed on me, so no pics tody. I put a wheel back on and took some measurements, and I found I have between 1 inch and 1.5 inches of clearance from the tire to the lower spring perch. I then measured the wheel WITHOUT spacers, the sidewall sticks out 3/8's of an inch from the lip. It is the EXACT same distance in the rear! I didn't measure the inside clearance on the back though, I guess I forgot. I then put the 1.5 inch spacer on front and rear, since it cleared the front hub.....pushed the wheel out 2 inches from lip and REALLY looked bad, the wheel is too narrow. So I packed up the spacers and will be returning them. They are a nice quality piece from the Z Car Depot" except that the studs are the wrong thread pitch the car is 12x1.25 and these are 12x1.5. So, anyone using these will have to buy new lugs or re-tap these studs to work. With the wheel on the rear, I took a FRONT flare and held it up there, and to my surprise IT WORKS! You can mount it at the lowest possible point, and it will stick out jsut over the tire AND hang down 1 inch and get rid of most of the gap between the tire and wheel well! So, I just need 2 more front flares, and all 4 corners will have the same. After all of this, I spent the rest of the day sanding the drips off the driver's (left) side of the car and prepping it for paint, I color sanded the hood, and found that the part I didn't paint this last time needs more white to match, so another coat of white and clear on the back part of the top of the hood. I then sanded out the front spoiler etc., now I just have to polish it out, and I got the headlight buckets all polished and done! Just need a coat of pure Caranauba wax!
  3. I like the first one I purchased, I would like to purchase another! Thanks
  4. Yesterday
  5. Last week
  6. Thanks guys. I do have the Marugen flares so they should fit tight
  7. Apex Engineered front subframe and VQ mount kit arrived while I’m still slowly making progress on the front rust.
  8. Woohoo. Final stretch! That’s awesome man. Hey is there any particular reason you painted the cage a different color than you will the interior? I planned on painting my cage the same color as my interior except for everything that was driver-facing. That will all be flat black. I appreciate the compliment! Especially as someone who genuinely doesn’t know what I’m doing. A part of me still has imposter syndrome with all this fabrication work. Yes it has been dozens and dozens of hours but with no formal training I’m just using intuition.
  9. Most definitely. In the case of EP, it’s not the power that makes the Z shine 😂😂 Maybe against the Miata sure, but the Z3’s are putting out over 300hp from what Greg tells me. It does have quite a bit of torque comparatively though. I mean, what do I know… I have yet to see a track i still have not tackled the brakes… for now I was planning on running porterfield shoes with the AL rear drums, and the fronts are OEM calipers and cross drilled oem rotors (PO). I’m not sure if better shoes/pads alone will cut it. I have 2.5” ducts pre-made into the front air dam (PO did them), but I still need to fabricate a rotor backing plate to direct the ducts into the rotors. I also drilled a dozen or so 1/4” vent holes into the rear drum dust/backing plate to allow them to vent. tires are mounted and it’s time to work up a flare solution. The whole assembly is surprisingly light. Il throw them on the scale today.
  10. Thanks, Nice visual on the wheel / Tire combo and where they will set. PS I see you have had a bunch of weather and snow.. Take care.. And I hope your rear wheel drums are fitting..
  11. Ok, and here are my results for my front wheels. Again, the original is orange using where they will sit with the spacers, to then play with rim width and tire sizes, and offsets to get the inside wheel edge same as stock, and the outside edge where the old wheel sits at when spaced out. 2 pics for reference. Again, the site is www.willtheyfit.com. Cheers
  12. here you can see my current wheel and where it will sit with it's spacers in the rear. The green is the new measurement which will be the same, but wider on the inside back to it's original spot before I spaced it out. These are for the rear, the front still have to be figured. In my case I am looking at a 15X9 with -11 offset . You play with the tire sizing as well....in my case, the rear will need a 235/45/15 to maintain close to the same outside diameter size. I just need to do the fronts now. Even if it is some time before I do it, I will know what I need should I decide to get different wheels down the road.
  13. www.willtheyfit.com An invaluable tool that can help you figure out what to do with wheel sizing for your Z car. You will have to get under there and measure some distances, but this will help you in figuring out what to get to achieve the look you want. I attached a couple screenshots of me working on finding out what wheel and tire I will need to replace my current wheels with my spacers at some point. The goal is to get the wheel that will sit at the edge just like my spaced-out ones will.....but no spacers. Go check it out! The first one is the end result of putting my spaced wheel on their building the new one in green to match, and then I moved the original orange back to where it is now to see the difference. the next page shows my wheel spaced out in orange with the green overlaid over it.
  14. Motorsport Auto buys the Konigs in bulk and puts them on sale often. I am really concentrating on rotational weight with this build. I think it is the secret sauce for a Z car. I think about Greg's EP car with those tiny brakes, 15x7 wheels, and lightweight slick tires. I'm just trying to move that needle just a little more with my looser rules.
  15. Well that looks damn sturdy. The best firewall mount structure I have ever seen. A lot of people watch these restoration shows on TV now. As long as the welds are solid they will look great after paint. I'm sure you grind off the blobs like I do. Got the floor pan in tonight. Now I need to paint and assemble the suspension.
  16. Here is what the PO did to my street Z. MSA flares (which I hear are not the best, but not the worst). Sheet metal screws for temporary fastening until the epoxy cured. Looks like he used JB weld or some other more flexible epoxy. i believe the idea is to remove the sheet metal screws now that the epoxy is cured. As you can see, you still have to finish the seam and the surface of the flares with some kind of filler to eliminate the dimples caused by the sheet metal screws. if I were confident about how to remove these, I’d take them off and put them on the race car. I’d rather have the Japanese marugen flares for a street car. I might still try. The race car needs flares for the 245 cantilevered slicks.
  17. You can also glue them in. Weld the nut to the fender washer and then glue that into the car using any of the newer panel bonding adhesives that are used in modern cars. No shrink/stretch, allows for some small gaps, seals the entire surface from water getting behind it, and won't mess up any paint or lead to increased corrosion down the line. Just a thought.
  18. I think you'll have a hard time finding flares built to the precision you'd need to take advantage of that tiny gap from the rivnut being reduced. I only have experience with the zccjdm flares and the MAS flares from back in the day, but neither of those was a super tight fit. Another option is to silicone them on. Saw a video of a guy in Japan doing a RWB 911 and he just used a bead of black silicone to fix the seam, looked good to me, but I don't mind the welting either and just have the flares screwed on with nothing at all to fix the gaps on my own car, so YMMV.
  19. My main reason for wanting to weld nuts instead of rivnuts is to have the flares sit flush on the metal. I am really hoping to not have to use welting.
  20. Agree @JMortensen and @Dat73z that welding definitely poses a risk of warping over rivnuts. I’d only recommend it if you already have some experience with welding thin sheet metal and metalwork in general (hammer/dolly). I’d want the flares to sit flush without having to use body filler at the seam, hence welding, but I’m looking at it from the perspective of someone who has now done two years of sheet metal welding so I’m bias. Also, welding to the wheel well will naturally ruin or eliminate your existing finish at those locations. I’m dealing with mostly bare metal on mine. the welded nut can give you a nearly flush surface (w/ pan-head) on the wheel-well side in case you have a super tight tire clearance at that specific location.
  21. Only when I've needed to have the part sit flush with the surface, and I can't counterbore the part have I gone through the hassle of welding nuts. For something like flares, you'll probably be running some fender welting right? As indicated above imo I'd rather due rivnuts here as you can easily remove them with a countersink etc. and replace if they get damaged
  22. I think you're probably more likely to warp the sheet metal welding than installing rivnuts, and rivnuts can be easily removed if they get messed up or cross threaded. Rivnuts are easier and work great. I'm sure the welded nuts will work, but I just don't see the benefit.
  23. hatepotholez, I had a similar problem with new Precision Door Weatherstripping as you. I fixed it in one day and did not spent any money on the repair. I will post how I did it in my next post -V8 Z forum Gen III & IV Chev V8Z coming soon. Check it out! Toolman
  24. That’s what I would do. I’d use a fender washer on the other side to spread out the load, then tack weld it to the fender. Just need to make sure you get good penetration so it doesn’t break loose
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