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10-27-2026. After bringing home my 5 cylinder 3700 intake for a quick trial mockup, I got it back to my fabrication shop with the plenum ready to be finished up:

I had to buy them. If I had more time I would have gone an alternate route. Visibly they are heat treated differently and the spline cuts are cleaner. so I would suspect they had an issue with a supplier along the way and changed them. but I couldn't get any information from the guy on the phone. to put it nicely, the guy I dealt with was a "challenge" to deal with. took 5 phone calls and 4 emails to even get him to send an invoice.

Did T3 send you new shafts or did you order some from a different company?

6 year bump...

Got the axle situation sorted with some new upgraded shafts. i replaced both sides just incase. and for your viewing pleasure some new england fall foliage shots.

not a great photo but i have an array of turn buckets hanging from the front tubular support I built. I do think it may get a little bit of a revision at some point as it comes off easy but its tricky to get back on.

My 3.1L 10.2:1 compression ratio 88.5mm bore. N42 block. Sonic tested. LD crank by marine crankshaft. Crank Off-set grind to 84.6 stroke Finish rod journals @ 1.8889" Thrust Finish 1.27” R & R plugs with threaded plugs Dynamic Balance Ion-Plasma nitride, straighten & micro-Micro polish all journals E31 head. Port work by Andrew Kazanis Dsi valves Diameter: 45/36.5mm Length: 118mm, titanium retainers. Isky springs. Bonk cam. Roughly stock exhaust and intake port sizes. Vapor honed inside and out. 221 CFM flow at .45-.5 lift. Rebello JE Eagle pistons and toyota rods Mine is 88.5x88.5x.25x3.14159x 84.6x6 /1000 = 3122cc My intake is port matched to my head, throttle bodies are tapered bore to my intake, they are 50-48mm (at the butterfly) then 45mm at the DCOE flange.

10-24-2026. I had to redo my alternator bracket again.....just move it down to make room for the intake. I brought home the tack welded piece from my fabricator to do so, then it goes back to be finished up. I also installed one of the idler pulleys, and got it lined up. It takes time when you are fitting and lining things up. In the pic below, you can see where I had to do a couple of notches to get things to line up. PICS:

Justin Gilbert put down a world record 1/4 mile pass for an IRS datsun s30 with an 8.02 @ 170 mph 1/4 mile pass. Also in the same pass he best the IRS 1/8 mile record for an IRS datsun with a 5.18 @ 141.74 mph 1/8 mile pass. the 1.26 60ft is impressive as well

Duffy, If you want I will run your head in my calculators and Ill tell you what it shows. I need to know Target / peak HP RPM Measured Intake flow at 28" Approximate minimum port diameter, not necessarily the flange port opening This will tell me what engine capacity it will like If you tell me these specs Bore Stroke Rod Length Target / peak HP RPM I can tell you what flow it wants as well as the recommended minimum port diameter based on velocity Port velocity is just as important or more than flow, too much or too little is not always better

10-23-2026. I ordered 2 idler pulleys from Amazon....they arrived, very nice, but the hole was too large. So, I took them to Ace Hardware, and got some Bronze bushings. I tapped them in, and then got bolts to bolt them up. Pretty cool.

New Haltech R3 harness is going in! So far I love having the ecu on the battery, it has made the process super easy

Like you, I also did not organize and label my bolts very well, and I don't really know where any of them go. The parts lookup feature on your site is fantastic. Thank you for putting it all together.

Hi all, I'm very happy to announce my new business Boltright Automotive Hardware. I've been restoring my 260z for over 10 years now and like many I wasn't exactly careful with the hardware when pulling the car apart. So instead of trying to find the right bolts for the right place and having them re-plated I had a better idea, purchase an original unmodified parts car, measure every single bolt/nut/clip on the vehicle and match it as closely as possible to a new piece. Yes it was painful but it has allowed me to offer the community a near complete full vehicle kit for the S30, with over 2600pcs. The included hardware is as close to OEM as possible, individually labelled for a smooth reassembly process. Nearly all pieces are Japanese made with only a few exceptions here and there. Not needing every bolt? I've got you covered too, you can purchase one section at a time also! Happy Bolting! https://boltright.com.au/#/kit/s30

Confirmed about a 100 different ways that I was at TDC and checked with a timing light and fixed timing in TunerStudio that I was accurate and wouldn't start at first. Switched to Wasted COP for the spark and started right up. That means the distributor is 180 out? Not sure how i could have possible changed the settings but it wouldn't run in full sequential. Will have to fiddle with that soon and see what the deal is. Other than that job is done! New valve stem seals, new cam, new Kameari cam gear. Went for a fast food run to run some data logs. Fuel needed to be adjusted quite a bit. Data logs don't show me boosting any earlier which is part of what I was hoping for, but the car feels far more responsive overall. The smell from the oil is gone too. Definitely still has an exhaust smell but doesn't feel off anymore. Pre-edit while I was finishing the mini update - I've realized that the reason the distributor is off by 180 is that at one point the chain slipped slightly when I was getting the new cam on and I couldn't get the sprocket high enough to slip on the end. The solution I settled on without tearing everything apart was to rotate the crank with the gear partly on the bottom of the cam and letting the rotation leverage it up the extra millimeter it needed to slip on. It worked perfectly to push the chain tensioner back in slightly but the end result was I had rotated the crank once with no rotation of the cam. The rocker arms weren't on, so all the valves were closed otherwise they would have hit the pistons.

keep it up man, get it back on the road! I can't wait to work on mine again!

Yeah the PAMS have huge ports, the Japanese tuners seem to prefer huge ports. I think my port sizes being roughly stock and flowing as high as they do, so work very well.

New Kameari adjustable cam sprocket arrived! Got everything set up. Confirmed timing at TDC and engine rotates freely. Checked the wipe was as close to center as possible after adjusting lash. Set the timing adjustment at zero on the kameari gear for now just to make sure I didn't completely screw up Aaaaand.... no engine start I don't think it's an issue with the parts I replaced or setting them up. It may just be that I didn't get the coil packs on correctly and it's not getting spark. Ended work too late yesterday to really mess with it but hopefully this afternoon I can check things to confirm.

will you show some detail about how the splitter is mounted?

Zcardepot currently only has the 1/2" billet pulleys, as they received an incorrect batch of the 3/8" version. Instead of waiting weeks+ for them to get a correct batch in, was wondering if anyone had a 3/8" pulley they're willing to let go of.

Looks like good stuff, @Andrew_l26 -- thanks for sharing! You may want to start a whole new thread on this, to ensure better visibility. We also have "Parts for Sale" and "Vendor" sub-forums; which would ensure our members have good visibility on your offerings. Thanks again for offering these kits. 👍

Sorry, been busy as usual, I have tested my Welded N42 I ran on my 240 for years, I have also tested my PAMS head. Ill post the reports when I get a moment. Hopefully soon. My concern is that as some know and some do not. Flow and cfm do not tell the whole story. Port volume and thus port velocity along with a proper MCA for the actual displacement and peak HP RPM all combined with needed flow is the best answer, not just who flows more. So, Ill discuss this in detail as well so we can look at each head and its proper position on top of what engine. Its a lot to digest, so still thinking how to present it all. I also need to figure out how to get some decent resolution images to post with all the number legible. Thanks for the people who posted some numbers for referance.

Old thread but I'm hoping this might help some people find me and my new kits! I offer a near complete full vehicle kit for the S30, with over 2600pcs. The included hardware is as close to OEM as possible, individually labelled for a smooth reassembly process. Nearly all pieces are Japanese made with a few exceptions here and there. Happy Bolting! https://boltright.com.au/#/kit/s30

Made a notch on the engine mount bracket for the steering shaft, hopefully I can test fit the engine again next weekend. I finished sway bar mounts. Tacked in sleeves for bolts to through bolt it to the frame. Also tacked/welded this angle support for sway bay bar mounts, should be very solid now, I can check that off the list.