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    Mark Kanoy
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    Mark Kanoy

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  1. Today
  2. Yeah I was looking at Cj caves. Theres a maroon RB25 280z on youtube running cj caves adapters with rockauto axles. This sounded appealing until i couldn't get ahold of CJ Cave and found out the rockauto axles aren't as durable as the OEM. Are you running RA axles or OEM? Im going to try and get ahold of this guy Mark. I am really leaning towards this route. This! Thank you for this. Ahhh I see. The thing is I bought a OBX LSD for the r200 and changed out the internals... Long story short I broke my diff and bought a Quaife.. So unless you're saying the ford 8.8 is compadible, i am sticking to this r200 for the long run. Wish I knew this before going from the r180 to the r200. Thank you for this tho, great info buddy.
  3. Thanks buddy. Feels like it's been awhile since i've posted. Hahaha. I feel like it's a mild turbo. Was looking at precision, and the GTX35. But jeez so much money.
  4. My dash is a fubar'ed casualty of trying to make a mold. The metal subframe is fine, but the foam top layer is long gone. So I was wondering if anyone has tried to just use a Dash cap (Accuform 303D) and secure it to the frame? I imagine I'd need to fiberglass in some mounting provisions but beyond that, any issues that would come to mind? Factory HVAC/ radio have been ditched. Aftermarket (speedhut) gauges (2 x 4.5" and 3 x 2-5/8").
  5. Is that a question or a recommendation? Glad you got your issue resolved, if that's all it was. As an FYI....the SBC can come with two different size flexplates, and they typically require different starter motor mounting configurations. That may have been part of the issue with your ebay starter.
  6. You can't get around the limitation of a 1.250" stub axle no matter what CVs you use. IMO you're never going to keep the stub axles from breaking at that power level. Time for backhalf or an IRS solution that allows for larger diameter stub axles. I'd look to an 8.8 if you want IRS. Might as well upgrade that too while you're in there. The diffs are cheap and readily available, lockers and limited slips galore, wide range of gear ratios, there are very strong CV options for them, etc.
  7. Here you go: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128951-fs-z31t-axle-adapter-flanges-for-s30-r200-slim-design/ He also advertises on the FB pages under "Mark Nickel".
  8. This is a LMG 5.3 as well. Originally was planning on going with a Powerglide with a transbrake, etc. Decided on a TH400 instead with a custom transbrake that will allow me to leave in 2nd gear. Engine is done and buttoned up.
  9. Mind sharing the PWM and pot you're using? I'm installing the same HVAC unit, but I've always hated having only 3 fan settings.
  10. I would not do the CJ cave adapters. The one made by the guy on here is more correct in the inverted offset design. mt nickel? (spelling incorrect) would be a better alternative. The drive axles are under a lot of rotation. Couple that with imperfections on the road and you get vibrations. I'm running adapters and even with loc-tite I find them loose every couple of months. I have yet to try red as I imagine they will need to come off at some point and I don't want to even think about trying to remove a sheered grade 12 bolt. The solution would be to drill the bolts for safety wire and run multiple lock mechanisms.
  11. You guys and your S300's are just nuts lol. Looks like a nice bit of progress!
  12. Do you consider selling the rear set separately?
  13. Bump. Reduced the price on the head again. Make me an offer on the head. It's freshly rebuilt and ready to run. You couldn't build one for the price I have it listed!
  14. The starter I ordered on ebay physically fits my chevy 350. It turns the engine, but the bendix will not completely kick out after the engine is running. It seems the unit is a tad too close to the ring gear, and yes, I tried every possible combination of shims. The bendix comes about half way out and jams. Then I replaced with another starter which was bought by my father on Hexautoparts.com and all is well. There appears to be some difference in the bendix on the these two starters, maybe the cause is that they not OEM but aftermarket starter replacement,not a lot, but apparently enough that the Hexautoparts starter release completely and works well.
  15. So been a little slow with the upgrades. Was really on it and inspired for a little bit then ended up letting that flame die slow. But since it's somewhat warming up, im starting to feel it again. Few months back i decided to give the Z more power. Since the z was pretty much stockish, other than a FMIC, turbo elbow, and ECU. I decided to buy a few goodies, and piece together a turbo kit. -s366 borg warner 91 trim -future fab turbo manifold twin scroll -dual tial 44mm wastegates -Bosch 1000cc injectors The goal was to try and get really silly and make it to 650rwhp on e85 cams valve springs retainers all that jazz. But then i started to think about that much HP for what my end goal of the car would be. So with that said now im more looking at doing a more mid to high 400's / low 500's on 91. A few pics for a little teaser. Did some preventive as well. Headgasket, FM seal, cam seals, oil seal.... So much seal lol. Anyways Kinda looking forward to support these new mods before I hit the road again. Im in need of halfshafts and rubber...bad. Looking at doing the CV adapter upgrade from Driveshaft shop, or wolf creek.. Or maybe even the z31. As for rubber im really looking into the r888s 225/50/r15 (My specs are 15x10.5 all around -40 i believe) Anyways looked at a few rides with this set up. It'll be a very minimal stretch. Wasn't wanting to stretch tires, but also wasn't wanting that bubbled tire look. This guys on (See below) this is more practical. Ill probably end up running this guys rear all the way around maybe. Blue car is similar specs as the red car (225/50/15 front 235/50/15 rear) Panasport G7-C8S15x10 -40 Front15x11 -70 RearToyo Proxes R888225/50/15 Front 235/50/15 Rear But then there's this dude who is really running stretched r888's which i didn't know was possible until now. Sexy to me, but unpractical for what route im thinking of going. 15x9.5" -15 front, 15x11" -25 rear Volk Racing TE37V wheels; 195/50R15 front, 205/50R15 rear Toyo R888 tires
  16. This fuel pressure regulator has been sold. Mods please close, thanks...
  17. Running into a few issues with my halfshafts like most are. Since im running a little bit more than stock hp on my 260z, i am needing something a lot more beefy. Looking for something that can hold close to 700-800hp on an r200 diff. 29 spline Westcreek (good but is this rated for that much rwhp? read a thread where the OP ran into issues with the install.) Driveshaft shop ( Probably going with this but i hear the actual adapters rub on the control arms? is this true, will i need to notch?) Also heard you run the risk of bolts unthreading? how is this possible? z31 axles w/ adapters ( thought i would go with this route, but was pointed in the direction of CJ cave and he never replied back) Let me know your thoughts, just want to do this right and once. Without breaking the bank.... If i don't have to . Joa
  18. Bump bump bump. I’m off this week and will be stripping this car down. Finally took a good look at this and it is a 2/77 car. Everything I got from the PO said 76 but the engine and head say differently. Either way I want to help some people out here. If you want something minus the transmission, pedal assembly and lines it is yours for shipping plus whatever you think is fair/will offer. I want this stuff gone so I can clear out the driveway. Seriously. If it isn’t in great shape and you want it anyway it will be yours for shipping. Ill take photos on request. I want to get the manual swap done this week so I’ll check my phone when I can. Will send photos of anything you need.
  19. Yesterday
  20. The front end work is complete: Tokico Illumina struts, Apex Engineered front crossmember, tie rods and steering knuckles, Arizona Z car aluminum oil pan, TTT tension rods, MSA anti away bar, rebuilt steering rack, Z Car Depot splash guard, powder coated stock control arms, strut housings and brake dust shields. Come to think of it, that was a lot of stuff! All the components went together well (with the exception of the stock control arms which had to be "shaved" at the back so as to go properly into the new crossmember) although they're all from different companies and we were able to align the car without any problems. 
  21. I'd echo the above, the stub axles would be my worry more so than the diff. I've tried drifting the Z in a formal setting and even in the hands of some experienced individuals it is a handful. Really short angle makes it hard to catch snap transitions. Not saying it isn't doable, a few people have done so, albeit usually with extensive modification, but it may be best to start or consider running more replaceable suspension if you are married to idea of Z drifting. That is convert to S chassis front suspension and consider a rear end swap either via TTT or a 8.8 conversion. Both options could be sorted on a budget with a lot of research and fabrication. Manual rack is going to be a bit trouble some on slow speed corners and when it snaps back in a Z it will be hard to catch and given where you sit (right in front of the rear wheels) it will also be disorienting. We stopped taking passengers real fast on the donut exercise, even the figure 8 was a bit much.
  22. Update: flywheel measured at 0.4 grams out of balance, i.e. just fine. Reinstalled everything this afternoon an behavior is as before. So, if it's not the flywheel, and it's not the transmission, best guess is it's the alignment of the motor and trans shafts (as has been suggested). I need to head over to the EV speed shop this Wednesday anyway to corner weigh the car so I'll pick their brains about it then.
  23. How goes it? Wondering how youre liking your r888's? Also have you thought about upgrading your half shafts yet to CV axles? Wondering what you were thinking about running.
  24. Looks great thanks for the pics
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