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  2. I might be massively wide of the mark here but, the bit I've highlighted in red combined with the issue you're having would lead me to believe the engine had this bolt coming loose problem before coming into your possession or if the head had recently been worked whoever had done it had overlooked something, the result being the bolt coming loose
  3. The engine was running when I got the car. Completely disassembled (except the head). Machinist said cylinders still had factory cross-hatching, and head looked recently rebuilt. Rebuilt engine with new bearings, rings, seal, gaskets, hoses, timing chain kit, ss bolts. I have no other info on the car or the engine. I'm waffling on new cam or have the machinist helicoil. He's got almost 50 years experience and thinks it will be just fine... New cam means new lifters and springs as well to do it right... Thanks for your thoughts and the information! r, Chris
  4. Today
  5. Just contact Nissan and buy a new bolt or Z Car Source and get a good used one, same for the cam, new or good used.
  6. If the threads in the end of the cam are trashed I personally wouldn't want to reuse it or even attempt to Helicoil it either Same for the bolt, if its threads are anything like the threads in the end of the cam again I personally wouldn't reuse As for an underlying issue causing the problem, do you know any history of the engine prior to the bolt coming loose? was it a running engine when it came to you? have you completely rebuilt it or part rebuilt it? left it untouched and just got it running?
  7. I've nearly finished one of my exhaust-parallel projects - 'new' 240Z steering wheels so time to share some photos. Once upon a time 50 years ago, all steering wheels were like new. Now they can be again and the perfect 50th anniversary gift for yourself and your car ! Completely stripped, spokes repainted and the the rim given several high-quality gloss coats, these will have new or refurbished horn mechanisms and centre pushes. They feel so lovely in ones' hands - a 'must' to finish your restorationand in a world where more and more people fit the black leather, competition replicas, be different and go old-school with the real thing ! Basic price will be $675 (no horn push and your wheel in exchange). There are a lot of hours' work gone into these.
  8. Thanks I traced the wires to where they should go and spotted two TPS wires were in the same post and had a additional black wire attached. I removed the ground looking wire and put them in their respective areas.
  9. Hi, I've been running a. 585 lift 307/8 duration cam for 3 years now (8 or 9k miles). A couple of the lobes have just started to lose material from near the tips. And I'm looking for how to avoid when I fit a replacement copy of the cam. The cam is reground from an oiled 1981 f54 l28. I have Schneider 68025 springs with a seat pressure = 125 lb ( I think) Are the seat pressures too much? I could swap for 68022 springs at 110lb. Should I use a spray bar too? Was I just unlucky or used the wrong zddp additive this year? Thanks for any pointers. Jon
  10. I bet posting pricing information would get more people interested.
  11. My previous struts had the brake line bracket cut so it could be bent out of the way and the brake line could be extracted without disconnecting it. I don't recall exactly but I think my lines are just hanging now that I've sectioned the struts, perhaps I should revisit that...
  12. This is the one that I purchased, I believe it was around 140$: https://images.app.goo.gl/iBEyADFAo1Gsuo6m8 Unfortunately, I do not have a picture of it in my Z as I have it completely torn down for full restoration. Here is a picture of it in another vehicle. Definitely a bit larger than the maxi fuse blocks, but I fell it is absolutely worth finding the space for it. I can say that with my car completely coated in dust and welding soot and other grit, the inside of the fuse hub is completely dry and spotless. https://images.app.goo.gl/Lzc6ncMfDwFfrZYL7 It does not use Maxi fuses. Rather, it uses much higher amperage rated MiDi or AMI fuses plus an array of ATC or ATO fuses. Blue Sea Systems builds oceanic equipment so they tend to prefer MiDi fuses which carry much higher amp ratings (30-200) and are bolted down via stainless steel lugs rather than spring clips. You can see that these are many times superior to Maxi fuses and readily available at most auto parts stores for only a couple dollars. The fuse chamber is sealed with an O ring in the lid. it also stores replacement fuses and the tool to pull ATC fuses inside the chamber as well as a tag so you can write which fuse does what.
  13. I can't thank you enough for not only taking the time to compliment my build but also for your fantastic suggestion. I've felt uneasy about the vulnerability to water that my current set up has. I definitely can't drive in the rain and have to take precautions when washing the car. I checked the link you supplied but can't find an obvious replacement box for the maxi fuses. Which unit did you use? Do you have any pics of your set up? I truly appreciate your help. Thank you. Dave
  14. Your build is an inspiration to us all. I was wondering if you have seen the fuse blocks made by Blue Sea Systems? Reason I mention it is that I had used a fuse block similar to the one you are using and found that the prongs that hold the large blade fuses tend to loosen over time, especially when they get warm. This ended up causing a severe electrical issue and stranding me several times in my 77 280z a number of years back. I ended up replacing my cheap fuse block with their safety hub block seen here: https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/16/Fuse_Blocks Although expensive (for a fuse block), it is much more attractive and about 100x more secure and air tight.
  15. You think so? Definitely not too little heat as I was having a hell of a time keeping it from punching holes through the thin metal. I am using my large welder with large diameter wire so it does build up rather quickly and most of that is single spot welding so it may appear to have a globular appearance, except for the 1/8" frame plates in the 2nd post.
  16. @jhm I would greatly appreciate that. Thank you so sir!
  17. Forum posts are pretty time consuming to assemble compared to snapping a picture and posting to facebook or instagram. For the effort, a youtube video would be more permanent and even result in some financial game if you could get it monetized. So that leaves those who do it to share. Who like the format and threading. Seems like fewer and fewer appreciate the standard. I know some forums have a wall type mechanism where someone can only see a post or two before having to sign up. I know some others have gone completely behind a pay wall with an annual fee allowing access. Not sure that fits the technical discussions that we have here. I like to think keeping it open allows anyone to feel like they can contribute. I will say when I was on a Facebook page there were some who at every turn would downplay and warn people against visiting hybridz, like anytime it was mentioned. I've gone back and found some of the posts that seem to have triggered such anger and sometimes it is hard to see how it could spawn years of hatred, but yet every single post it seems like they find and comment how terrible a place it is.
  18. Looks like you got quite a bit of work ahead of you! The X bar to the trans tunnel is pretty standard to keep everything from twisting if you are cutting out the seat rails and such. Something seems a bit off with those welds, too much wire speed? Not enough heat?
  19. Quite the thread jack, but stock 3/4 throw is apparently the same as the one in the 350z if I remember. I'm using a wilwood 15/16 if memory serves.
  20. grannyknot, is there a way to check the bolt? Also, Helicoil the end of the cam, or new cam? Not sure which is best. Which brings me back to my original concern, could something else be creating this issue? thanks!
  21. zbloke, great idea, but the threads in the cam as so trashed, I'm pretty sure it won't tighten now if I tried... However, The sprocket wouldn't "wiggle" after it was torqued down, not that the tolerances we are discussing could be felt by hand... Thanks!
  22. I would separate since I have two of you right here- lol Selling these for a friend that is needing tires for his Z . Trying to be fair on price . I would think 75$ on the spindle and that make sure the dizzy 175$ ?
  23. That ^^ i could use the drive spindle.
  24. Yesterday
  25. I used the stock one from a 350z, havent had an issue with it.
  26. Regarding braided lines, there's a few vendors that carry them; but I've been using some made by a company called "Apex" (not Apex Engineering). They've lasted well for the three years I've been using them, and they will gladly make custom lengths upon request. I'll dig up their contact info and PM it to you.
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