Jump to content
  • Member Statistics

    Total Members
    Most Online
    Newest Member

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. An up close look of the work needing to be done. I will cut out the holes and weld in new metal, the pock marked stuff survived the stab test with the screwdriver, so i will treat the rust with the conversion paint and keep on truckin'.
  3. battery box pic. yuck. 49 years of neglect. other side under the brake master cylinder is bad too
  4. Day 3. Started the day boxing up my SU carburetors and sent them off to a guy in California to professionally restore them. You can fight these things and they never really work well, sometimes just due to age and having a lot of slop in the parts, etc. When I get them back they will be BRAND NEW. Yes....terribly expensive! Then, I went around to the passenger side of the engine, and found yet more, dirty and tired looking stuff. I pulled the alternator, and the small capacitor on the outside fell off all rusty, un plugged it and this alternator is a small one 30-
  5. I just purchase HP Tuners and have no experience turning. Is there any advice you can give me on tuning for the t56? I also install a ls6 cam and intake. Can you share your tuning files that would be great.
  6. Sounds good Zetsaz! I'm excited to see some progress when you get back to her. I will say though, that the .63 A/R GT35 combination on my 3 liter chokes the exhaust and power starts to off earlier than it should, around 4.5 - 5k. I'm sure that the GT35 being tool much compressor for the engine doesn't help either. I'll be "upgrading" to a more modern small frame turbo some day... It's totally ok and normal to loose interest from time to time. I know I do sometimes...but she's always there ready when I am.
  7. Apologies for resurrecting a dormant thread but it would be nice to know if there was ever a resolution here. I think it's a shame this zcar depot dude hasn't responded to this. His lack of a prompt response I indicates he doesn't want our money.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Never mind. Found this and it helped. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128943-z31t-axle-swap-can-fit/
  10. I actually have no idea, thats at the engine builders.
  11. The restoration program dimensions in this PDF might be helpful, but I'm not sure anyone has a CAD file of the whole thing ready to go. 240ZRestorationprogram (1).pdf
  12. Currently in Utah, but opted to not drive the Datsun and take a break for a while. Lots of changes recently. -Switched to a Mishimoto radiator after my radiator developed a leak and I didn't feel like just patching mine up. -Installed the Turbo block and got the base timing set and a couple short test drives to tweak the VE map with my old NA parts -Bolted the AC condenser. Top of it bolts straight to the radiator core support at two points, and bottom used a single bent bracket I made that bolts to the center then to original front valence brace. -Installed a proper Aeromotive
  13. Sooo, I'm guessing he never got this off the ground.... Sad, as I have an S30 with dreams of doing an AWD swap. I preface this by sayig I am a Mechanical Design Engineer with tons of experience modeling. Does anyone have a good CAD file of an S30 chassis that I can use? I've designed entire race cars down to the bolts in Solidworks before and would be willing to map out/ make drawings for a project like this. Would need everyone's input on what needs to happen, however.
  14. Thanks for the tip I got two leads on R200s at the moment both with bars there’s one down in Florida for 120 bucks right where I’m going to pick up U-Haul truck for other reasons in two days that might work out quite nicely
  15. Sorry to bring this back from the dead but is just flipping the CV cages good enough to prevent binding or can it still bind? Would machining a new snap ring groove closer to the center help with preventing it to bind at all?
  16. If you are still looking for a cheap solution: Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/AI289AzAkhb
  17. Thank you, that’s very helpful! I’ll definitely use this info once I figure out the overall spark triggering situation 😄
  18. The breaker plate is the part that rotates when vacuum advance is applied. It moves the pickup coil in relation to the distributor shaft to advance the timing. The distributor shaft itself can rotate freely but the breaker plate can be locked to it instead of free. Easiest way to check is to remove the vacuum advance canister and gently try to rotate the plate. If the balls are rusted in place you might break the plastic cage so be careful. Think about advance curves also. There the vacuum advance and the centrifugal advance. Once you get in to them there's all kinds of small
  19. Yep, I have the distributor on my bench and it spins freely and appears to be in relatively good shape outside of the failed pickup. I was also considering a 280Z or ZX distributor for the car but those appear to not be in good supply so I figured trying out a new pickup for this one might be the best bet. Additionally I was likely going to convert the car to either use an MSD box or 4pin HEI module once I had the pickup working as I’m not sure the factory TIU is in good shape still and either of those options would supply more power to the coil.
  20. Sounds good! Just a word of advice, being in the process of restoring and upgrading a race car myself. Keep your car as a daily driver, and buy a separate 240z as a race car that may not be titled, have missing parts, no interior, etc. You will be tearing the car apart and spend months performing structural improvements, seat mounts, etc. Best to do this on as cheap and incomplete a chassis as possible. Almost nothing on the suspension will be left untouched, so anything on the car today that is "upgraded" or in good shape will likely be replaced with something that is adjustable a
  21. Forgot to say, have you checked the breaker plate on the distributor? Often they get locked up or broken and don't rotate anymore. You could use a 280Z distributor in its place. Or a 280ZX unit. The ignition module on your 260Z is one of the very first models and those old ignition modules fail on a regular basis. In short, consider the sum of the parts involved. And, the early electronic ignitions were not "high energy". They were just points replacements. Same plug gap,. 1978 was the first high-energy ignition module.
  22. Looks like they are definitely different parts from the 280Z parts. Probably just the way it mounts on the breaker plate. If you could get a 280Z coil to mount next to the reluctor wheel correctly you'd probably be fine. Might be worth an experiment if you can get an old 280Z pickup to try. Here's the 260Z part numbers. Different from 280Z. Part #7. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/distributor/260z Here's 280Z. #9. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/distributor/280z
  23. Thank you for the advice AydinZ71. I think I will go for dished pistons then as don't want to have pay higher prices for higher octane fuel as this will be daily driver. In the future when I change the car to a full race set up I will rebuild the engine then and change to forged DSI pistons.
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...