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  1. Today
  2. Clark, I looked online and saw some of those “sweet” units. They looked like the most sophisticated units at a reasonable price on the vendor sites Jon mentioned. Il have to take more time on this topic. Purchased the Tilton pedal box and two tilton master cylinders + reservoirs for $400. Probably a month away from tackling that yet. continuing to add metal to the cowl area. Trying to make the existing surfaces rigid before closing the gap. Don’t want this section to warp since the hood and cowl sit here. IMG_6055.MOV FullSizeRender.mov
  3. It looks heavy, but good point on whether it’s heavy enough to make a difference I bet you could shave out at least a pound or two if you replaced it with a tubular crossmember. You could always cut it out cleanly, weight it, and weld it back in if you change your mind. It’s not like your welds will be any weaker than the sporadic resistance spot welds Funny thing, the drip rails double as resistance to deflection in the vertical plane. Still, with the cage in there you already have so much added rigidity, I bet you can cut them out and seam weld cross. If I remember right, the drip
  4. I am pushing the CG down as low as I can go. Exhaust exits side so no problem there. Flat bottom floor all the way. I think it will work ok. I have been staring at that damn cross member for months. Started to cut it out couple weeks ago and declined. Do you think it weighs enough to make a difference? Looking closely at it, it didnt look like that much metal. I am also staring at the drip rails.
  5. Thanks for the detailed explanation. I think I am in luck as I do have the bullet connectors. I can trace from there
  6. Thanks Sanchez, I do not think the previous owner made an mods to the ignition system. I will take a close look though.
  7. Yesterday
  8. After owning 3 Braille batteries, including 1 Lithium, you'll be lucky to get 2 years. Hence why they have a 1 year warranty. My Lithium battery lasted 1 year and 3 months. Their products are garbage, stay away, they are just rebranded Deka batteries from the same manufacturer (East Penn Manufacturing). Their specifications are overrated, and the battery test sheets they send with the battery will show it. Just stay away, don't get pulled into their motorsports marketing bullshit.
  9. On a related note.... Since with the small front master cylinder I was getting too much pedal travel, I started to analyze possible ways to improve the situation. When I plumbed the brakes on the car, I used entirely AN-3 steel braided lines....no hard lines whatsoever. Many were of the opinion that this would lead to a soft pedal. I started to wonder if this had something to do with my excessive pedal travel....if the AN3 lines were expanding under pressure, they would certainly contribute to the problem. I had a lot of hardware left over from plumbing th
  10. Front control arms still aren't done because I've been slightly burned out on car work. Finishing them up this weekend and ordering remaining AC parts though. Also... That hardbody I picked up years ago is a champ. Picked up this "free to me" engine last night in exchange for some spare parts. Guy seems to have changed directions and mostly just wanted it out of the way. Some pieces seem questionable, but a lot of it looks pretty good and it already has the common head cooling mod for cylinders 5 and 6. Since mine is running okay aside from some
  11. Very sorry to hear this. A rebuilt diff and Quaife....you must be out something like $3K? That's horrible.
  12. I've been having trouble getting the brakes adequately set up. Based upon tech advice a few years ago from one of my suppliers of parts, my starting master cylinder sizes were .612" front and .812" rear. The problem with this combination, is that the front cylinder moves so little fluid into the relatively large front caliper pistons, I get a ton of movement of that side of the bias bar. Conversely, the larger rear master cylinder, moving much more fluid into the relatively small rear caliper pistons, barely moves at all. The consequence is that the balance bar gets massively a
  13. So I was doing some research on the rb swap and saw a pat1 mention his rb20det swap to the 280z using the rb trans and motor mounts and then found a few others saying they used the stock rb20 motor mounts after slotting them and then using the z trans mounts. Essentially I just wanted to confirm that this was the same process on all the z series.
  14. Still working on the lights. Rest of car is done. Going to make some videos soon to walk through the build. Also just registered to bring both Z's to the August Zcon in Colorado Springs. Should be fun.
  15. I do have a wideband to check AFRs. I'm hoping an intercooler and forged pistons will give me some wiggle room while I tune this thing. Its more for show and I don't plan on running any crazy amounts of boost, 6-8 PSI seems right around where I'd want it.
  16. The wiring diagram might help. Looks like both wires get power so turning the key on won't tell you anything. One wire is the ground for the CSV and the other wire is the power to the internal heater in the thermotime switch. If you still have the bullet connectors in the harness you could use those to figure it out. One pin of the switch will have resistance from the internal heater (the curly line in the drawing). The other one will be very low resistance since it supplies the ground for the CSV through the switching portion. Measure resistance through the pins to ground, th
  17. Sorry to post again. This will likely be the final update. Still no refund. Credit card company (BofA) was not helpful. Deemed that too much time had passed. Buyer BEWARE!
  18. @Gotham22 Yeah the AC wiring complicated the wiring around the front cover a fair on the early Z’s. My 73 240Z had dealer installed AC that had already been removed when I purchased the car. I found about 5 wires associated with it bundled into the harness that were cut and terminated, but visible which made tracing some stuff difficult. And these wires weren’t referenced in the Haynes manual. The 280Z diagram may actually have AC wiring because it was probably a bit more common addition around the end of the 70’s. AC wiring is a good place to start, but have you done any (or previous
  19. Looks good!! Does your class require the outside dimensions of the car to be OEM? If I was building something nearly from scratch as you are, I would raise the floor bottom by a 3/4". After the exhaust and crossmembers, the floor pan support rail is the next interference point for lowering a car in my experience on the street car. Maybe I would mock it up and change my mind. Fun to kick around the idea. Another thought I had recently was to replace the heavy crossmember that runs behind your head. Its what has your rear hatch mounting points. it seems to me the method of stacking
  20. No problem. I to am lacking on the body work speed but thats because I'm waiting for my rims to come in...
  21. Next up is the floor and interior structure. I never noticed before until I started building this thing that the floor bottom on a 240Z is actually lower than the rocker panels. This car only came with rocker panels, nothing more. When I got ready to try and locate driver stuff I quickly realized that I couldn't just run a flat panel across the bottom. Turns out I needed to drop the floor roughly 1-1/2". Again all measured to the FSM datum points. So that meant building a frame around the tub. I used fairly thin square tubing since I already had plenty of structure above it. Again you c
  22. In the tube car I am running a used Sweet column I got off eBay. I'm not sure it is that much lighter than stock. But it is adjustable and mounted with sphericals. Do the fit checks with the actual seat you will use. Usually end up as far back and as far to the center as possible. Then it's a matter of getting the rake to your liking. You can drop the steering wheel down but taller drivers will then bitch. But be careful of blocking yourself from getting in and out of car. One thing I did after moving the seat to the right was add some spacers under the flange at the bulkhead and s
  23. I may have made a newbie mistake. I did a lot of research regarding the fuel injectors and polarity. It seem the common answer is polarity does not matter. I therefore spliced in the new injector connectors. However, after changing all the connectors I read that polarity does matter when it comes to the thermotine switch. I no longer know which is the positive and negative wire for that connector. This may be a dumb question but what is the correct way to determine if I wired this incorrectly? Can I turn on the ignition without the switch connected and test with a multi-meter? Would, I b
  24. Thanks for the offer. Yes I plan on getting a small lathe maybe later this year. I am forever needing a special bushing or spacer. I just got my home built CNC mill running and it seems to cut 6061 aluminum very well. This thing is so cool and opens up another world for me. I will cut these top hats as one of my first projects on it. Check out The MPCNC website from V1 Engineering.
  25. I had to move the seat for helmet clearance on the halo bar. The steering stuff is pretty common. I buy most of my stuff from www.colemanracing.com, speedwaymotors.com, jegs.com, or behrents.com. Betting they all have everything you need.
  26. This ^ If you are new to tuning, I implore you to run modest boost (6-8psi) I have blown several turbo engines and it has always been a matter of tuning. EFI is repeatable. Carbs wander on A/F ratio over time. In case this is your first experience with turbo’s, do some searching online on the term “detonation”, especially as it relates to boost. Don’t get us wrong, we love triple carbs. They are sexy and sound great. Certainly a performance bump from SU’s. They are however difficult to keep tuned, especially with thin margins like in a turbo application.
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