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  1. Today
  2. I'm hoping someone has a RB20 manual transmission in good shape they may have laying around. Thank you!
  3. Sounds like your timing is off, a light would show that, or you have your plug wires to the wrong cylinders, or you have some crossfire between wires. You still haven't really told anything about the engine management. You can't run EDIS using the stock 280Z EFI system. Actually, maybe you could but you would be stuck in "limp home mode", at 10 degrees. Assuming that you set it up right. Again, a timing light would show it. Good luck with your mystery project.
  4. Sold a car for part cash part trade for a set of Italian triple webers with linkage and a Cannon intake. They will be going on my series 1... I don't know alot about these carbs but I know alot of guys use these. I asked the guy about the history of them and he said they came off a running car, I asked if there was anything wrong with them and he said rebuild kits are cheap lol, so either there is something wrong with them or he honestly thinks they are good and maybe they are.. I'm guessing it's a little more than just bolting them up and seeing if they are good to go or not. Would you guys rebuild them first and not mess around putting them on the car till then? Also is there info on how to properly tune and set them up? I have a Air flow meter that I use for my SUs.. And lastly, what do you guys use for air filters on these things, they didnt come with any. I like the chrome air horns but don't know how they would keep from sucking in bad shit into the motor, do the little screens actually work vs like a k&n set up? Thanks
  5. Still going to be a 4-1/2" 1350 shaft that's only a couple feet long connected to a cast 4 bolt Spicer flange Grant
  6. The car runs fine with the 280z distributor installed and you can adjust timing no problem with the distributor and there is no back fire from the carbs with the distributor. I’m 100% I have no mechanical issues I’ll figure it out thanks anyway
  7. Hi all, I damaged the passenger fender on my low mileage 77 280z and am looking for a replacement. I am surprised how hard it is to find a good fender theses days. I remember when Z parts were plentiful. It it looks like those days have passed. I have heard that 240z and 280z fenders are not identical. Can anyone explain what the differences are, even if they are subtle?  Thank you, John
  8. Think I'd recommend you post this on classiczcars.com as this is more up their alley.
  9. Should have waited to make this post. I've already found one miss-connection and a couple of missing dots. I will update soon
  10. Ah yes I thought as much, I'll have to measure up the dimensions before going full send on the project. It's such a great looking motor though, reminds me of the S-series Nissan motor. There's not a whole lot of aftermarket support but a megasquirt, turbo related bolt ons, injectors, and some fan work, I think I should be able to pull a decent amount of power out of it.
  11. I recently had the opportunity to put a L-series head gasket on top of a AJ16 engine. That AJ16 is huge! make sure it will all fit before committing to a project like this. I friend of mine put a supercharged 4.0 AJ16 into a old Landrover Defender. I made the wiring loom and megasquirt unit for him. Placing a AJ16 into my S30 also crossed my mind.
  12. I'm rewiring my Z and scraped this from the '71 "Supplement Chassis Manual". I was having trouble chasing the black lines so I put this together. Maybe someone can also use it. But I'm mostly interested in having some other eyes on it to find my mistakes. If you find any mistakes or missing wire joins (black dots with white center), please let me know and I will update. 1971_240Z_late_model_r01.pdf
  13. I'm building a 77 s30, these cars came with an inline 6 so I'd like to stay true to that. I've been researching unique inline 6's that are easily obtainable in Southeastern USA, and I happened to stumble across a 57,500mile AJ16 4.0 from a mid 90s Jaguar for $220. I'm a pretty decent welder. The placement of the the motor looks like it would be great for a big single, assuming I'd find a way to lower the compression ratio. There's a company that still sells reman Tremac 5 speed trans for the AJ16. Does this sound like it's worth it? Money and time aren't really an issue, but I'd like to see progress. I'd rather not go RB or JZ, and my 78 currently has an L-series. Thanks for reading.
  14. Hey guys, good evening. I recently got my hands on a 1972 240z and decided to join the forum so I can learn more about her and Z cars in general. She's an automatic and completely matching numbers. The car itself runs beautifully and I don't regret the purchase one bit. Its white with a red interior and is almost entirely rust free save for some minor surface rust in the battery area and a few other places. The interior is in good condition. The dash is not cracked and all the gauges work. The car itself came with a lot of dealer options installed. It has the AC, Dual Racing Mirrors, Front and Rear Guard Rails, Shade Kit on the rear glass, and the 240z side stripe kit. Interestingly, it also came with a full set and spare of original Radial Snow Tires that were sold by Datsun dealerships. It also has the original floor mats. Also, I don't know if this was a dealer option, but it also came with a pristine Beltek 8-track player in the glove compartment. I'm only the second owner, so I hope to learn a lot more about her. Thanks for stopping by! I plan to get some more pictures up tomorrow.
  15. Hi, I make the CWC kit you fitted, thank you for you good review, I did notice you didn’t use the tensioner bolt. The kit works with the factory tensioner so you don’t need to go old school with a pry bar to tension the belt. Happy to look talk see what your missing also the pulley is larger than factory and has a slight difference in offset for belt alignment the larger diameter slows the alternator down but around 2000rpm at 7000rpm Giving the alternator a longer life and not overspeeding it email: clockworkcustoms@yahoo.com.au
  16. Hello there guys , so I’m in the midst of installing a switch panel in my 82 ZX. However I can’t find the darn schematics that show what color wire goes to what for the ignition . Does anyone by chance have it on hand ? TIA
  17. Yesterday
  18. Okay guys, I took a slightly different approach than my original mockup. I too ended up altering the steering knuckles on my S14 spindles. Instead of cutting and welding the steering knuckles into a different position I modified them by heating the and reforming them to restore to original S30 geometry. I ordered custom outer tie rods then had to go back and order new longer sleeves to account for the reworked steering knuckles. Right side is mocked up (minus new tie rod sleeve), I’m much happier with this setup...
  19. NewZed, That is exactly what I ended up doing and it seemed to help some. I have not tried reverse bleeding yet but that is the next step if nothing else works.
  20. Looking at buying some BC coilovers and i’m just curious if anyone on the forums might be a distributor or have someone they can recommend. I have heard about apocalypse motor sports giving good deals, but not really sure who to contact or if they are legit. If anyone has any info on them that would be greatly appreciated it!
  21. Sometimes people discover that the rear caliper bleed screw hole is not actually the highest point when installed after these conversions, because they're not designed for Z cars. It's close but still has a spot for an air bubble. They have to unbolt the caliper and rotate it so that the channel to the bleed port really is the highest point. They bleed the brakes with the caliper loose, then rotate it back and bolt it down when they're done. Be the bubble.
  22. I am aware, just wasn't sure you were. 153624 >> 1-6, 5-2, 3-4 looks right for pairing. Have you checked timing with a light? You haven't really confirmed what you know besides the parts that you bolted on. "I bolted these parts on, it doesn't work." A common cause for backfiring through the carbs (some people call it front-firing, since backfire usually means at the exhaust pipe) is a bad cam lobe. Your problem might be mechanical not electrical. Have you checked valve lash and cam shaft quality? The short direct answer to your question in the first post is "yes, it's described in two of the threads in the link I provided". Good luck.
  23. Sorry for the long wait for an update, I have been really busy. The speed bleeders from Russell do work. I won't go in to much detail but basically don't buy Dorman brand bleeders for your car, they look identical to the Russell but the nut is lower down and they bottom up on the nut before seating. I noticed the Russell's still had the thread locker on them and I must not have actually tried them. They fit. So I then bled the brakes some more and things seemed to get better but not by much. I also managed to lock up the driver rear caliper now??? So I need to work on that more. I can now pump up the pedal indicating there is air in the system and it takes more effort. I guess I just need to keep bleeding the brakes over and over. Ordered another set of bleeders so I can do all 4 corners by myself. It does stop thought. I'll report back once I get more bleeding done,
  24. I just went through a full energy suspension kit, tie rods, and ball joints too. As others have indicated there are some slight fitment issues with the busing and bearing sizing but nothing that you can't overcome. I personally replaced everything that I needed to remove from the car to do the install including brake parts as the car is nearly 50 years old now and mine sat in a barn for the last 25 of them. The struts are probably the biggest thing that I would not want to go back and do (mainly in the rear). They are not expensive but also not cheap and I think worth replacing if you are not sure. Bad struts will make the rest of your efforts moot. Just beware of the spindle pins :)
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