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That figures. I don't remember what year the listing said it was from other than a 280z. I just have to find a flange now I guess..Ugg. While I am full of questions? What year 280z half shafts do I need for the swap? I keep reading 240 axles will bind and need 280z w an R200 diff to fit properly. Thanks for taking time to help. I appreciate it:)

Lots of folks have had to adapt their steering setup for various reasons; and I haven't seen any that complained of negative issues afterwards. Most of the adaptations that I've seen have been custom fabrication; but if you've found a good kit, go for it. Main thing would be to ensure the functional hardware is good quality and the installation is solid....competent welds, stiff bracing, etc.

Is the R200 from a 1975 280Z? They had an odd flange size. The other 280Z R200's will swap over directly. Your original 240Z driveshaft should work with those. The R180 and the R200 are the same length. The 75 280Z R200 flange is an oddball.

I am confused about which driveshaft to use. I am swapping in an R200 diff into my 72 20Z. I had thought that the stock driveshaft pinion flange would swap onto the new differential. That is not the case sadly. The 240z flange is too small. The diff is from a 280z and I am trying to figure out which driveshaft I can use? From what I have read the 240Z shaft is a little too short but I can't really find a definitive answer. Any help appreciated.

2jzge, single turbo

What engine is going in?

Sorry for no updates for awhile. I dug into the carbs and figured out that my float levels were completely off. One was set very rich and the other was set very lean. After properly setting the float levels, the car accelerates much smoother and does not feel like it is going to rattle itself apart above 4500 rpms. It will rev up to the yellow line now, and has better power above 4500 now, and it is smooth revs. It still feels like it is missing some power above 4000rpms, but it is way better than before. I believe the issue is that my carbs are still running lean. No matter what adjustments I make, they run lean. I do have a very small air leak at the butterfly valve shafts. Not much I can do about that right now. Z therapy carbs are out of the budget at the moment. I have not yet purchased SM needles, I will do this soon, and i am hoping that they will help get the carbs to run a little more rich. Thanks for all the help! Any further advice is appreciated!

Hey guys, I'm in the process of an engine swap in my 280z. The revised motor mount makes it necessary to change up the steering linkage, does anyone have experience with using an aftermarket steering linkage kit? I'm looking at the ones that add a joint to work around the mount. Do these negatively affect the steering feel? Anything not obvious I need to keep in mind, or is it pretty straight forward?

Here is a quick way to check the polarity and the high low switch. Use a voltmeter and ground the negative side of the meter to the car ground. Take the positive lead and touch it to the center of the high low switch. You should have positive +12V with the headlight switch turned on. The low beam wire (Red/Yellow) is at the top and the high beam is (Red/White) at the bottom. The positive +12v will toggle between the two when the turn signal switch is toggled. I enclosed the switch and labeled the different terminals. If that is correct check the polarity at the headlight plug. You should have one ground and +12V at low beam and +12v at high beam. One other thought is check the fuse block and make sure the two headlight fuses are good. You will have one for the left and on for the right light. Hope it helps.

Update, please.

Thanks for the reply! I apologize, I should have included more info. The bigger wire (on the left) is the 12V wire coming from the top lighting switch. The reason it’s cut is because when I went to disconnect the old bullet connections, it must have overheated in the past with the halogens and melted the connection (so it needed a new connector anyway). The wire on the right, the smaller one, is the extension wire from the ATO fuse holder, I removed the connector to show the size difference. I would absolutely love some help with this if you’re willing. I can message additional pictures and videos when I get home to give you a clearer view of my situation.

I got a black ABS pipe fitting from Lowes that fit my hose, drilled out the back of the factory box to accommodate the larger pipe size, and glued it in with the BLACK ABS plumbing glue. Have to use the black, NOT the clear.

MinneZota, I am not sure what you wires you are showing in the picture, so it hard for me to determine what was cut. From the instructions above you do not need to cut any wires or connectors for the swap. You must make the ATO fuse jumper wire and the small jumper wire pictured in the instruction above. By using the two jumper wires you made this allows you to plug them in the existing harness and swap the main red and black wires pictured. This changes the polarity for the LED headlights to work correctly. You can message me I can walk you through it.

10 years later and I finally got around to doing it. I used the sheet of ABS I bought 10 years ago and has been sitting in my garage since. I got a big piece of very thin plastic, probably thinner than poster board to make a template and kept trimming it until it fit OK. Once the actual piece was in, used a heat gun to make it fit the best I could. It's not perfect, but will probably keep 98% of the crud out from behind the fenders. I removed the 2 bottom fender bolts and pulled it out some, and so much crud fell out.

05-17-2025. Today I installed a light kit in the engine compartment and another inside the car. I got both from Amazon. I also went ahead and installed a "Green Filter" on my block breather tube. As soon as I tightened it, it crumpled the green part a tad. It would have been great if it had not done that, but oh well. Here are a few pics. Videos, click below. Video's (click below) : Facebook Facebook

Free -- you cover the cost of shipping and PayPal fee. Complete set of front and rear calipers for a 280ZX (S130). What you see is what you get...some mounting hardware, some (worn) pads, no rotors or soft lines. Year unknown, working condition unknown. Snagged these a couple years ago on FB Marketplace "just in case I might need them". Turns out I don't. Unless you have a preferred shipper that you can send me an account number/prepaid shipping label/etc; I will ship these flat rate USPS. I can fit everything into a single Large flat-rate box, but it's a heavy sucker. Safer approach might be two Medium flat-rate boxes. Thanks for looking.

It's a welded p90a. I think the ports are 38mm. I think they must be as big as they can be since the head bolt holes broke through when we drilled them for m12 bolts.

Thanks so much !! I will study these . I’ll download your tune and look at it . Sounds like our engines are very similar . what head and port size ?

I am designing a DBW actuator for this DOHC now!

the most valuable tuning tool for me has been this MLV histogram - I can drive around all day logging, and then load this and in one view I can see how close the tune is to where I want it to be.

yes, Speeduino uses Tunerstudio too - I'll share some screenshots and the tune. I'm switching to 50s because this engine doesn't rev out like my previous 2.9 did - it would zip round past 8000 but this one is more powerful below 6000 but isn't so keen to rev past 7000 at all. It might just be the longer stroke, but it could be the 45s are too small so I have to find out. on the motorway it does about 35 mpg (UK gallons, so prob 30mpg US). and I'm confident it's well more than 300bhp (but never proved it, because that costs money :)) VE table: Spark table: AFR table I only use closed loop o2 control at low throttle openings. Above that, it does hit the target AFRs quite well, after years of logging and histogramming with MLV. CurrentTune.msq

Its now my least favorite looking DOHC, but it's pretty darn cool technology.

Dude. I've said this multiple times. I still make and sell the heads. I have 2 in stock right now. I sold 3 in 2024 and one so far in 2025. I also sold one of my new KN16 4 cylinder heads this year as well.

I saw them selling for $6200 in Europe. They are CNC heads already so I wouldn't expect a whole lot more cost for the DOHC variant. Derek what you've done is cool and all, but my gripe is that you stopped making the head a long time ago. Why not share the files with someone like Edelbrock so they can make a head for the masses. We're at the point where L series are becoming scarce and manufacturers don't even have incentive to make parts for them anymore.

I agree and I brought that up with him. He had a ton of ITB experience with Megasquirt so I deferred to his expertise. The only complaint I have is when I'm low speed lugging through my neighborhood it really starts lugging. Other than that it runs great as far as I'm concerned. I tend to have my foot in it most of the time though. DOHC and ITBs under load makes for some sweet music