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  3. my 1980 280zx, 383 small block, full manual valvebody 700r4, soon nitrous as well, NA it outruns hellcats on the 60 roll while still autocrossing great, and being street legal
  4. trying to learn pictures, yall let me know if it decides to not upload them
  5. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63403-considering-a-1980zx/ link to original thread Howdy y'all, im new to this forum so correct me if im posting in the wrong place. i have a 280zx with a 383 swapped into it, full manual valvebody 700r4, and lots of goodies in the engine. s13 coilover conversion ect ect ect. i just finished rebuilding the engine, and installed it back into the car. i had it runnning briefly before i left to go back to arizona for college, but didn't get a chance to drive it. when i come home for christmas i plan on continuing with it and get it reliably drivable. I've done a few autoX races with it but the handling is not where i want it, mostly driver related(i need seat time more than anything), but the car tends to push hard and understeer significantly on corner entry, followed by more poor driver input causing corner exit oversteer. i do plan on moving the engine fore and aft to help with weight distribution, i also picked up a few scales from goodwill that i can use to corner weigh the car and better understand the balance, and my brother has a stock 83 zx that i can weigh to compare distribution. after thats dialed in i do plan on upgrading swaybars to compliment the coilovers, if any of yall have some recommendations id be glad to hear them, i was looking at 1" front and 7/8" rear, or 1" for both if i can find it since the stock has the rear swaybar much too small in my opinion. before that ill likely get an old stock bar from the junkyard and play with bolt hole spacing and how it affects handling so i can better understand swaybar effect before spending lots of money. feel free to ask questions about it, offer advice or show off your z, i plan on using this thread and the previous to keep track of my work as i go, so more updates as i get time to work on it
  6. Oh my, I see you cut the front side of the carbon roof. Nice work. Here is mine
  7. Yesterday
  8. The headers look very similar to other s30 LS swap headers and the reason I'm interested in these is that they are designed to fit the Z32 5 speed transmission from a 300z that I have behind my LS3. https://www.lojkits.com/collections/headers/products/test300zx-lsx-swap-headers-by-kooks
  9. I'll add the finished pictures later tonight. Overall the process went great. Just needs some bodywork and it'll look pretty killer. This process was quite a bit easier than drilling out all the spot welds!! IMG_5770.MOV IMG_5773.MOV
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  13. Looks about like mind did after sandblasting at @jpndave's place and having his son help me weld haha. I remember they just sort of handed me the little blast pot and let me go to town in the "yard" of the new property haha
  14. New addition to the shop! Almost destroyed my first tire, but didn't scratch the rim!
  15. Last week
  16. @Zetsaz np and yeah the suspension was a decision I made like 10yrs back when I built the car for the first time/3 lol. With the options on the market now I'm tempted to get something with a threaded shock body so I can preload the suspension independent of ride height but I also have a few other vehicles so I'm trying not to light too much money on fire with this one. The funny thing is I actually welded up a set of s30 BCs for my buddy not too long ago, the coilovers are pretty nice
  17. why don't you just cut the whole old roof out, its a little more work, but its a lots better looking and weight saving.
  18. Zcar posts about Datsunworks heads fairly often, they have one car running it. The videos are magical sounding.
  19. Thanks for the info! My car is going out for soda blasting, I'll see how bad my hood and hatch are after that to make the call.
  20. Sequential you should do crank, or flywheel trigger, then this for sync or you could use your turbo dizzy for sync.
  21. Thanks! Also related, things you're mentioning are why I went with BC coilovers. I like that the full strut body adjusts without affecting the spring preload. In the future if I want much better performance I'd just go with KW but I can't justify it with how little I drive the car now that I'm out of the country
  22. https://engweld.co.uk/category/tig-welders There are DC tig welders as well as ac/dc tig welders. i got the esab rogue 180i for £634 about a year ago and it is working all fine for now. I would suggest that but it all depends on your need as there is no one size fits all when it comes to welding machines.
  23. waiting parts. Pistons to arrive soon.....I dropped the crank off at the machinist to check it all out.
  24. @Zetsaz I belive it's 1/16 high temp non-adhesive backed silicone sheet. I don't recall where I got it from but any industrial supplier, amazon, ebay etc. should have some form of it. Yes punch the holes for the screws and cut a small circle in the center to slip over the shifter area. I started to swap over the springs from the eibach to swift along with the pillow ball camber top hats. It seems to be doing what I need the suspension changes to do, providing camber adjustment, more clearance, and also preventing spring pop out at droop.
  25. Somewhat sorry for redirecting this thread, but it looks like if you have a turbo engine all you need to do instead of slotting is remove the appropriate amount off one side to drive the CAS... Correct me if I'm wrong... I have my original ZXT distributo, shaft and DIYAutotune wheel for the turbo distributor and intend to go sequential and this seems to be the low buck way to get rid of the distributor.
  26. I probably should have posted the process but hes a quick break down. Dont know if this is the correct way of doing this but it seems to work for me. 1 -Identify the area and take measurements so it can be similar to the other side. 2 -mark out your design, try to plan out the steps so you arent remaking a panel because you put an indent on the wrong side. 3 -put the design into the panel using whatever tools you have a your disposal (hammer & dolly, bead roller, resip hammer, etc) 4 -remember you didnt account for the stretching that was going to take place and now you have to hammer and dolly your panel straight again. Some of this hammer and dolly work could have been eliminated if I calculated prestretch required 5 -using your patch panel as a template, scribe around the edges and begin cutting. I try to leave 0.125" from the scribe line and finish it with snips 6 -tack the edges 7 -begin welding. I like to use tig for this and I try to run a bead without stopping. It warps alot. 8 -hammer and dolly or use a planishing hammer to flatten out the welds, go over the entire welded area with a wide faced hammer/ slapper and try to finish the panel as best as you can.
  27. Where did you get your silicone sheet for the shifter? Did you just cut your own hole? I need to do something similar. I have a stock boot flipped 180 with the shifter hole opened up but since it's formed for the opposite direction it's pulling slightly while in gear which isn't good.
  28. Wanted to buy this but need to relocate my MS3x first. It's in the stock ecu location but much fatter, so these wouldn't work until then Just rear 6x9 speakers in a replacement taillight panel cover like the one MSA sells is your best bet then if you want something easy. You can always wire for front speakers and figure out what you want to do with those later.
  29. FWIW, I bought the tail light/rear body panel for a 240z and honestly was quite impressed. They seem to be a quality part. I would expect the same for the hood/hatch. I personally would buy from them again
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