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  2. Agree 100% with @JMortensen Just imagine selling 20-100 units of something a year (if you are lucky), and pocketing only dozens or hundreds of dollars per order. If you do the math, you realize its very difficult to quit your day job. For the most part, I think we (the community) need these handful of vendors more than the potential profit could support. For example, where are you going to find a 12mm stud for a diff cover with 1.75 pitch on one side, and 1.25 pitch on the other. You could spend an hour or more searching online to find out Zcardepot is just selling a subaru P
  3. I have not performed any analysis or modeling. I spent a bunch of time speaking to other folks who have raced (some competitively, and successfully) with S30's. Beyond that, I am using intuition as a mechanical engineer. The important thing to consider is that Every addition of material has 2 components to consider: 1) How effective will the addition be to the aiding/resisting existing stress/strain of the body. 2) how much weight am I adding in the process. The most efficient means to reinforce the existing body is to determine where the most flex/strain is taking place, and brac
  4. Today
  5. Video works great. Would love to see a breakdown on triangulating the front. I've been told that and heavy frame rails (apart from caging it) are 2 most effective strengthening mods you can do.
  6. I agree with above, that it is more the reaction of the company to fixing mistakes that counts. Nothing in a small market like this is ever going to be developed and tested to perfection prior to release. I've had a lot of experiences with the "Z" after market while building my car, as like many here virtually nothing on it is OEM Datsun. I've had very clear and definite problems with several company's components, which I articulated and documented (including video) and communicated to the company that made them. The response, more often than not, has been crickets
  7. There is very little money to be made in making performance parts for a 50 yo Japanese sports car, both because the market is so small and because for many people the attraction to these cars is that they're cheap. Maybe that last part will change, but certainly when I bought mine price was the primary concern. Seems to me that Apex does more engineering than most, since he actually shows his FEA results, etc, and looking at some of the other kludged together shit that has been sold his looks relatively good. That said, there have been problems, like the failure to produce the tra
  8. Did a little work on the s30 this weekend. Between family, work, and cycling (in that order), there is very little time left for the cars - including helping my son with his s130 project car. Anyway... I welded/tacked on the right side corner piece. I am thinking more and more of going with the 280z donor piece even though it's full of holes and a few dings here and there. The aftermarket panel just needs to much fiddling to get right. Here it is clamped in place. I still need to make the left and right lip that holds the hatch seal.
  9. @Zetsaz, @Ben280 I have to admit that I haven't paid as much attention as I should and maybe the negative comments just stick in my memory longer but I guess my real point is good intentions are not enough. ALL of the R&D should be done before the product hits the market and not at the expense of the customer. Anyone who makes a product for our old cars is doing us all a favor for sure but it is not enough to release a product that has 80% of the problems figured out.
  10. Yeah I noticed that too. Each set of these pads costs $300-$500....trying new ones is getting expensive....lol I thought about putting in "street pads" and just swapping them out at the track. This would be a bit of a PITA, but the big problem is I don't think anyone makes street compounds for the AP calipers.
  11. I just swap a Viper 03 t56 replacing the 4l603 in my 5.3 2002. That's all I changed everything else is still the same from the old tune. Do you think I need to retune it?
  12. Maybe the DSUNO might work for you. The Ferodo graph for their pads start at 150C so it's anyone's guess how they perform at ambient temp for first few stops.
  13. We loved Raybestos ST-43 pads in our racecar. A lot of the endurance racing guys swear by them. Their bite is pretty consistent from cold to hot, and they wear like iron.
  14. I've tried both the 2500 and the DS3.12. Both to some degree have the "no cold bite" issue, but I found the DS3.12 to be the better of the two. I've used the 2500 in my other track car for many years. In that application it's been great.
  15. When I purchased my kit Essex recommended the Ferodo DS2500 pad as good place to start while experimenting with pads for a street driven car. The DS2500 looks to be their lowest aggressive pad with an average 0.42 Mu over operating temp range. Hope to offer up an opinion on these pads in the coming months. https://www.ferodoracing.com/products/car-racing/racing-brake-pads/ds2500/
  16. My current pads are good hot, but terrifying cold. Since I don't plan to trailer the car to the track, it's a problem. I'm probably looking for that magic bullet pad that doesn't exist.
  17. Ohmster already said what the issues were. It's not a COVID or supplier or outsourcing issue. And he's an engineer, he says, so the issues with fixturing and fit should have been foreseen and manageable. He's just a guy who took on a big challenge, to start a business, to make money, and he's having problems. No free passes in a free market economy. The poor spelling is a bad sign, in general. Attention to detail. These stories have been told before. Hope he makes it. He's the only one that can make it work. So far, nobody has reported a successful installation
  18. It depends where you look, this site certainly seems to collect frustrated experiences with Z vendors far and wide. I've got a version of their R200 kit custom built with long nose rear diff mounts, and it was a much better install experience compared to my old T3 mustache bar, which required ratchet strapping the mounting bolts in the car together. T3 did have an excellent post recently about the issues they've been having with their lead times and supply chain. COVID has really messed up a lot of stuff, and the car market in particular has been hit extremely hard. S
  19. Can't argue with this statement. This business is HARD. It has got to be right every time, and you must provide equal customer service to new, as to old orders. Heck, even Derek chose to sell his stellar product through Godzilla precisely because he recognizes how much time and effort goes into customer service. I do have a pair of their rear control arms that I plan to throw on the race Z. Looking forward to the experience.
  20. Thanks @Phantom appreciate the info. Just to confirm you’d recommend a standalone relay, specifically for the black/yellow wire, not connected to the Zcar starter relay?
  21. On the contrary, I like my rear control arms and plan on ordering the fronts. @Ben280has the rear subframe and can tell you his experience with it. Seems like more and more of the LS swap guys from the Swapped S30 Owners facebook group are using his front crossmember as well. I think the 8.8 kit, especially if you also go with the axles (which are outsourced), is the only thing I've heard negative reviews of. I feel like this has already been discussed endlessly in this thread and Ohm even had a chance to explain the situation regarding delays with the 8.8 kit. My two cents: if you have
  22. Gosh the worst part hearing this story for me is reaffirming my belief that if you "want something done right, do it yourself". I always have a sneaking suspicion that the passion us folks have for our cars (and those of the community) is far greater than the marketing of some of these shops can live up to. It's hard for me to believe that the tolerance on an S30 is that awful that you could be off by an entire 1/4". There are times I am working on my Z and think "I could never afford to pay someone the $$ they would be entitled to put in this much attention to detail".
  23. The wrong one. Hawk Black. John Coffey recommended them 15 years ago and I bought based on the idea that they have a decently wide temp range. There are better options these days. Main issue I have is insane amounts of dust.
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