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  2. If you want to make sure the support structure crushes before the unibody, some pie cuts out of the tubes would ensure that.
  3. Today
  4. Thanks for the replies! I contacted FutoFab on the issue but have yet to receive any response back. They sell the johnc side axles with the kit now, so in theory I'd expect them to work together with it. That said, empirical evidence seems to suggest otherwise... Axle length checker lathed out of PVC: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2t7c7bfbdy3z0fm/20200119_165400.jpg?dl=0 Then after accounting for plunge on the CVs, custom mock-up axle lathed from delrin: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lbcrm5q7ygneaj9/20200119_191158.jpg?dl=0 Seemingly correct axle length: https://www.dropbox.com/s/5kscrhxp2rzsvc1/20200119_193101.jpg?dl=0 An interesting point of note is that even with the 15-1/4" length axles, there is not bind in the traditional sense of absolute length. What's happening is that the combination of the axle length and plunge distance available in the CVs allows the axle to drift enough that it _will_ contact the CV adapter on the diff side before stopping / resting on the circlip on the outboard edge. I am very, very dramatically experiencing this under load. Perhaps a lower torque output Z would not, I'm not sure. Anyway, the correct length for my application appears to be 14" drivers side, 14-1/4 passenger side. This is a HUGE difference from the 15-3/4" original length axles I was shipped. Unless I was sent the wrong axles, or my understanding of what's happening here is grossly incorrect, I'm not seeing how this kit ever works on a Z (although maybe it's correct for the longer wheelbase 510). I'll report back my findings if / when I'm able to correct this... though it sure is tempting to just slap my old half-shafts back in at this point!
  5. Yeah I agree, it definitely needs something. Looks kinda like kia which I can't have Gonna go black hood vents, grille, bumpers, badges, mirrors, and maybe tint.
  6. Just from the picture it kinda looks like it's in primer to be honest, if you add some black it could totally transform it though.
  7. Would not call it a problem, its just finding best driving character for you. Could even be 20mm bar to strut same as 1" bar to apex control arm second softest spot. Me having 18mm and 20mm bars i have 4 different swaybar settings on front
  8. I agree with @Ben280. Even if the Wolf Creek axles are same length as stock half-shafts, that doesn't account for the fact that the aftermarket side axles *may* add some length to the overall system (as compared to the stock Datsun side axles for a non-LSD R180). And you mentioned you have your LCA adjustable bushings turned in the way....how much did that change your effective LCA length by? I would guess the cheapest solution at this point would be to trim the axles (again), or push the LCAs back out to stock position. What application is the car used for?
  9. wonder if i can drill my hats to accept this tone ring.
  10. The axle will be fully extended at full droop. Sounds like your combination of adapters etc just means your axles are too long. Have you verified with Wolf Creek/Futofab that you have the correct lengths for your application? If one side is still in a bind, the problem will persist. I can't remember on the R180's if the driver and passenger side axles are symmetrical or not, might be worth verifying your measurements.
  11. Yesterday
  12. Paralysis by analysis. Is this leverage a real problem? Seems like there are plenty of well sorted, fast Z's out there overcoming this issue. But then again, this is hybridz, blaze your own path.
  13. So I have had the Z on hold for a bit this winter unfortunately. Finished up a bathroom in the house and fixing the fueling system on my log truck, but I am back at it! Last night I cut out the driver side floor frame and spent a solid hour in 7 degree temps grinding away the rubber insulation and paint to prep the weld areas for welding. Finished the night test fitting the floor panel. Tonight, I am planning on finishing the weld prep and continue fitting the floor pan. Also taking a slightly different approach to this side. My floor area under the seat rails is actually solid on this side, just a bit of surface rust here and there so I cut up to the flange of the forward rail. I am planning on cutting the floor pan with a 1" tab that will slip under the remaining floor and running a small bead across the bottom of that.
  14. I need a fan shroud for my 1976 280z with AC Please pm me if you can help. Thanks Ken
  15. Hello all, Picked up a 1975 280Z SBC conversion back in November 2019. What excited me is that this Zcar is very similar to a Z my brother had back in high school in the 1980's. I've been poking around the site and appreciate all the advice and information you all provide. Ben
  16. a lot of the stuff is pretty close. head bolt holes are pretty damn close, and you could probably make it work just by offset drilling the MB head holes closer together (side to side, not front to back, obviously). The only other major hurdle is the thrust bearing location. Merc has it betwen cyl 4 and 5 and L is between 3 and 4. Not insurmountable, but just to give you an idea of what you will be dealing with.
  17. Anyone know of a company out there that makes an Air Suspension kit for the S30 chasis?
  18. Thoughts on Mopar destroyer grey Datsun . . .
  19. Check out Williams auto body they are in San Mateo https://www.williamsautobody.net/index.html He dose a lot of Datsun work. Stop by and you will see several Z cars there. Erik
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