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Yep, the portion most of your weight rests on is lower in the Recaros. My recaros were rebuilt, so the webbing is still taught. I'll get some measurement with myself sitting in the recaro vs the factory seat this weekend. Mind you, this is with the plastic seat spacers in place(2 iirc, can't recall the thickness) with the factory seat and none with the recaro. The only downside to the seats is they're deeper so you can't get them quite as far back. I'll measure that distance this weekend too.

Here are some final assembly pics of the NA car Rear brakes. I had to take the OEM Z31 backing plate and cut the spot rivets holding this parking brake cable guide on. I then had to shorten it and weld on a new front mounting point. I ground the welds all nice so it looked OEM and then replated it in Yellow Zink. In the second picture you can see where I press fit in some stainless steel rivots, just sitting proud of the surface. This is where the "feet" on the parking brake shoes hit, and a little dab of grease should keep them smooth and quiet without worry of wear on the aliminum I next had to make a custom boss that will screw in to the new backing plate. This is the pivot and load point for the parking brake shoes. So I turned it out of 4140 steel, Yellow Zink plated it and threaded it into the backing plate with Red Loctite. Then I could re-assemble the stub axle and companion flange. These parts came out nice with a Zink plating on all the mating surfaces and powder-coating everywhere else. They should stay nice for a while. You can see the mounting bolts for the new backing pates. This is what the caliper looks like mounted with the Z-31 rotor Installed the parking brake shoes, springs, adjusters, ect. All fit up just like OEM Some final shots of the plates all assembled. I think they came out looking cool, kinda morphing from the struts hub shape to the mounting ears of the calipers. The look will be very clean IMO

This doesn't look like the more aggressive NISMO one, looks like a Z31T LSD. That's probably a good thing. They're plenty aggressive as it is. You might open it up and see if it has the big washers on the sides. If so, that's a pretty big weakness. You can get some clutches from Gary Savage if he's still making them: https://www.facebook.com/garysavage42 or pull the clutches and have 4 more of the ones with the tabs on the inside laser or water cut. Here is a write up on installing it.

Am I reading this correctly? Despite being on adapters and worn out OEM seats you were able to get about 2in of extra head clearance?

Greetings everyone. I have a nismo 2way LSD that I would like to attempt to install in an R200 3.90 from a 1981 280zx (if that is even possible) and use the 29 spline inner stub axles that came with.

I'm going to be producing them shortly. Here's a few shots of the "prototypes" with the seat in the car. They're tilted forward slightly to compensate for the higher thigh bolsters compared to the Z factory seats. They bolt to the factory seat adjuster rails

The headlight low and high beams are controlled on the ground end of the circuits. Sounds like you have a short circuit to ground on the high beam circuit. That would also cause the high beam indicator to glow. Both circuits get power as soon as you turn on the headlight switch. The switch at the base of the turn signal stalk determines which circuit, low or high beam (short or long), gets grounded.

Thank you JHM and Miles for the info. I know its an old topic but that is where the best info is located. Miles, how did the Carbotech ax6 pads work out for you? I track 2 times a year but mostly street drive. Thanks for any info.

The best performing pads that I have tried on my SBC 350 240z. I have tried all of the Porterfield, Hawk etc pads and they suck in comparison. My brake setup: Carbotech Ax6 pads work really well with this setup. Front: 1979 Toyota 4x4 pickup calipers for solid rotors. Direct bolt on. Rear: 1989 240sx rear calipers 1979 280zx 15/16 in. master cylinder 1978 280z 9 inch booster. Notes about Ax6 pads: Excellent cold bite which is great for a daily driver. Dusty at first, but I don't care. Stopping performance is what is important. No sign of fading!!! No noise Buy direct from Carbotech. Carbotech staff is helpful and courteous.

Try posting in electrical ..

Recognizing that this is a six year old thread....I can share my own personal experience with the Carbotech pads. I ran them on my car for 3 years and was relatively happy with them. Mostly track use, with occasional street driving. Good fade characteristics under hard use, and I don't really remember that much brake noise when street driving (but they do produce a lot of brake dust). Since your car is mostly street use with occasional track work, another good pad to consider is the Porterfield R4-S. I've had good luck with Porterfield front and rear; very predictable and great wear characteristics. AP114 is the pad size for S30s: https://porterfield-brakes.com/product/ap114/

Hello. I need help. I have an electrical issue on my restored 260Z 2+2. 1975 mod. I have installed a used complete electrical wiring after restoring my Z. The problem is that both near and long lights are lightening up when I turn the lights on. Parking light is ok. The blue lamp in the speedometer is on in both positions (near and long) but not so strong in one of the positions. all other electrical units ar working perfect. Any advice? Regards Geir

Nice tip regarding this particular model wiper motor and part number...thanks for that! The car's looking great -- amazing attention to detail. 👍👍

WIPER MOTOR REPLACEMENT- i replaced my Original Factory Wiper Motor with one from a 1992 Honda Civic. Amazon had a Cardone New Wiper Motor #85-1423 for $105. This particular wiper motor has "Parking Return Feature" which returns the wiper blades to return in the Parking postion when Shut off. The original Factory does not have this feature so the Driver has to accomplish this task manually. This Honda Wiper Motor has the same mounting bolt pattern so the installation is easy. Also the Motor rotation is the same. The Datsun Wiper Mounting Plate has to "notched" for the Honda Wiper Motor Clearance. The Honda Motor was similar Mounting Slot for the Datsun Wiper Arm and bolts right up. A Hot Glue Gun was used to glue down the Hoda wiring to prevent possible wiring problems. The most difficult portion of this installation is the Electrical Wiring of this swap. A Water Proof Relay was utilized as the Wiper Motor is located in the Cowl Section of the vehicle. I used -irhassody 40.30 Amp 12vt Waterproof 5 pin HD relay $11 from Amazon. This is my wiring diagram for this Honda Wiper Motor Swap. Double check the wiring colors as I found some wiper motors has different wiring colors. Honda Wiper Motor installed.

Miles, how did the Carbotech ax6 pads work out for you? I track 2 times a year but mostly street drive. Thanks for any info.

Those odd things. Forgot about those. I've seen it proposed that they are meant to stop engine movement if the car gets hit from behind or hits something. Seems more like they might be meant for ease of engine removal and replacement. Here's a place that might have some pictures. You'll have to browse. https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/280z/

Sorry, to clarify I’m asking about the additional u shaped isolator brackets shown in the pictures (facing opposite directions). I assume one of the pictures is correct and the other incorrect?? I don’t think the early models had these but they were on my 280z and I forget which direction they were flipped.

Imagine the engine in the car with its tilt and choose accordingly. The vertical side will be the short one.

Help! What is the factory correct orientation of these engine mount isolator things. The pics in the FSM are also hard to judge. Thanks!!

You can remove the diff cover studs and replace them with bolts. That way, you can replace the gasket in the future without dropping the diff. Only downside is they went with studs for the inherent safety they provide. If the nuts come loose on the stud, the diff doesn’t go anywhere. You will need to be disciplined in torquing the bolts correctly and using loctite if you ditch the studs. A steel bolt threaded into a cast aluminum diff cover is not really risky, but because of the dissimilar metals, they can lose torque over time from vibration and heat cycling on the cover.

09-24-2023 UPDATE. I found myself doing a lot of little projects....I bought 2 volts gauges I wanted one gauge but they offered 2 for a low price, so why not? I made a bracket out of sheet aluminum, and mounted them just below the hazard switch on the dash. I figured I would wire the bottom gauge to read the volts on the ballast, but it didn't work, so more fiddling on that. I also went ahead and made a wiring harness for the remaining 4 toggle switches I have installed. I am in the process of putting in a fused secondary box for additional needs, and they will be trimmed out on that box. In so doing, I was also able to close up the dash and steering column for good. I painted my 2 rubber plugs for inside the rear hatch, and installed them. (see pic) Afterwards, I decided it was time to get her out and adjust the fuel mixture. I had to keep adding more and more.....I am currently 4.5 turns down on the fuel mixture screws, and she is still running out of fuel at 4K RPM and more. So, it looks like some "SM" needles are needed. I also hooked the vacuum advance back up and no issues.....so going down 2 steps on the NGK plugs fixed the issue (BP8ES). A lot of pics, to see below, Cheers!

Yeah I don't know how I got myself into this either. I had sold the LS swap out of my car, got this L28 as part of it. Originally the engine was supposed to be running good, but timing chain was noisy. Story evolved to engine stopped running one day and has been sitting for a year. Between the mystery electrical or fuel problem with the L28, and the missing wiring from my 240z which I deleted for the LS (voltage regulator, coil, etc.) it seemed this would be the cheapest way to get it running. I am also slapping a turbo on it, since after all this it will only cost a few hundred extra and will double the power.

I still have no idea why you'd want to do this, but good on you for working at it.

If anyone was thinking, why don't I take all the stuff on a vortec 4200 (08+) and slap it on an L28, here is what it looks like. Firstly, there is like one post about putting the vortec 4200 in a s30 where a guy laid it in there and it looked way too tall. This is very misleading, a lot of the height comes from the front sump oil pan. Moving to a rear sump pan and the 4200 is only ~1" too tall, maybe even less. Could probably get it to clear with some trimming of the crossmember. That out of the way, using all the EMS off the 4200 on an L28 seems like it would be pretty cheap and easy. Cheap yes, easy no. You are basically doing the work of an engine swap electrically plus a lot of extra chopping and bracket making. I've probably put 50 hours on this and am still not done. Some of the things done: DBW pedal, can be drilled to fit stock location. Has a metal base that can have stock pedal welded too Crank sensor. 58x (60-2 teeth). The flywheel is 120 tooth, so remove 2 teeth every 58 teeth. Missing teeth should be 81 degrees before TDC. Drill hole into transmission and grind away ~1.5mm to achieve proper clearance. Cam sensor. 4x weird pattern. Gap in halfmoon should be under sensor at TDC. Can mount to cam gear if you machine it shorter (will need endmill or lathe which I don't have), can mount to distributor if you cut distributor case half off. Throttle body is much larger, will need an adapter. I made a custom 3d model for it, contact me if you want one. Injectors are 14mm, tall, flow ~27lbs (a little more than stock turbo ones). Will fit directly into aftermarket fuel rail. Knock sensors seem to just fit against block fine. Coils need a 1/8" or equivalent mounting bar, but otherwise are direct fit. The typical ECU wiring for any modern computer, tune, unlock.