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  1. Past hour
  2. Bondo is never fun to discover... secrets secrets are no fun. It quickly became clear that the car had been wrecked with both rear quarter panels replaced. Apparently that is easy enough to hide? F***. The intent from the start was to give Donna a new lease on life! No reason to get dissuaded now. But what the hell... it would have been nice to notice this sooner. It began to feel like a good 'ol can of worms. Like detectives we began to unravel the untold history of this old beast. *Side note... don't ever fill your vehicle voids with expanding foam. We'd like to offer an honest f*** you to whoever did that. And no it did not stop the rust. I wish I had a picture of that for ya'll. Guess we better start cutting things apart... (more pictures soon of course).
  3. Today
  4. I'll start off by saying I solved my problem, but I'm unclear of why it worked. Bottom line is that I was receiving 12v on the Black/White keyed wire while the key was in the “LOCK” position, 0v in “OFF” and “ACC” then 12v in “RUN” and “START”. All of this is normal with the exception of the “LOCK” position. Measurements were made at the ignition switch. I was also getting ground indications from this wire (one side of the multi-meter on the B/W and the other would have continuity when touched to any ground on the car). My Black/Yellow crank wire was also spiking around 6v if I turned the key slowly from “LOCK” to “OFF” (which resulted in a WTF moment when the starter kicked over), but otherwise only showed 12v in “START” and also didn’t spike if I turned the key rapidly from “LOCK” to “OFF”. I’ve “solved” the problem by removing the Air Cond (factory option, but none installed for this swap), Wiper motor, and Flasher fuses which resulted in normal behavior of the ignition switch wires when turned to the appropriate location. I’ve attached my BLUE, GREEN, WHITE, BLACK dash to engine harness plug pin-outs, marked-up body electrical page from FSM and pictures of my power distribution to the harness. I’ve stared at the wiring diagram and cannot figure out why removing those fuses result in normal behavior. Even worse, I have no idea how this wire is getting 12v when the key is in the “LOCK” position. Any help or insight would be beneficial. I suspect something with the Flasher circuit considering it is battery hot at all times and is the logical choice for why a wire that shouldn’t be hot was showing 12v. Background 1973 240z, been the owner for the past 13 years. PO didn't hack anything up, I received it with no engine/transmission in preparation for a 302/T5 swap. My current setup is a 5.3L/T56 using a re-worked truck harness and PCM (did it myself and very familiar with most every wire) and EZLSX Power Distribution Module for power delivery from the PCM. My power distribution for the engine harness and rest of the car is through a Littelfuse 07981003ZXS LTX MEGA & MIDI Fuse Block Kit. I have a brand-new battery and have verified LS and Z harness grounds are good. My Z fuse block, and wire harness in general, are in excellent condition. I removed my Z engine harness and modified it wire-by-wire to remove wires that were not needed for this swap. I have attached my pin-outs for the 4 colored connectors under the passenger side of the dash. Generally speaking, only lights, power, wiper motor and horn wires remain. The Black/White, Black/Yellow and Green/White are snaked into the car to connect to the EZLSX PDM through a weather-pack connector. My large gauge White and White/Red wires are running the littlefuse fuse block kit on the same 40A fuse. My 12v source for the PDM is also on this fuse. My headlights are on a different fuse through a relay block as well as the taurus fan.
  5. Depending on where they're placed I might be interested in some select pieces. My car already has sound deadening and some other things, so I'm pretty limited in how much more I can do for chassis reinforcement if it involves welding under areas that have material applied,
  6. So we bought Donna without a title and never drove her (sad face). Why bother getting her running if we couldn't legally put her on the street? Got to love when decisions like that get made for you. How far will we go? Neither of us knew nor had any idea where this project would take us. It felt like swimming out into open water in the fog and pushing away the constant thought of "I hope I can to make it back to shore." With so many unknowns on the table we immediately got to work tearing into her. Floor pans were solid. Little rust in the usual spots: battery tray, spare tire well, rear end. All things considered the rust seemed pretty minimal... but things aren't always as they seem. Uh oh Bondo.
  7. I know a guy in TN that will fix it. Mine goes in when it gets cold. Mine sat for 10 years and the heater core is one of the items that needs changing.
  8. Yup, agree with the above posts - select pieces would be good...I already have Baddog frame rails and sub-frame connectors.
  9. Yesterday
  10. izzy

    Apex engineered

    Gotcha. Must have misread that. They definitely should get someone to help answer. I know it's not fun to pester, but in their case, I'd drop a reminder every few days. Only way I got answer from them without waiting for weeks. I hope you get what you need man!
  11. Robo

    Apex engineered

    Thanks izzy, not stressing, I already have parts from them. That all happened pretty quick, and that was some time ago. All I have been chasing was an engineers FEA report. last contact with Ohm was late August. Tried a couple more messages, but has gone quiet again. Not much I can do other than wait. Im not here to put rubbish on them, Parts and delivery were great. I just need some paperwork to keep my engineer happy in Australia. If they are busy, that’s fine, but would like an eta.
  12. Looks like my last response didn't post from my phone... I think I used either 1 gallon of each or 2 gallons of each. Can't remember which bucket I bought, but I remember when I was first applying it and talked to you about dry weight I concluded the lizard skin wasn't more than about 20 lbs in total. Having compared both now, Lizard skin was much easier to apply and probably took less time (not counting dry/cure time). If you're done the math then that actually sounds about right. I bought the "mega pak" which has about 96 square feet and it won't fully cover the interior, though it does get MOST of it which is more than you need for adequate deadening. If I were to do things again, I'd probably just use adequate coverage of the ceramic coat for full coverage against heat everwhere, then use Dynamat in all the large flat panels and tucked in key areas for the sound deadening. more coverage depending on how concerned you are about sound/weight ratio. Paint update for everyone else: mentioned to Dave yesterday that I noticed some tiny bubbling in the paint. Painter called me back a few hours after I sent him the same pic I sent you. He said it's too hard to tell how deep the source is from just the pics, so he'd have to see in person to properly advise, but admitted that ultimately the prep and spray was his responsibility and we'd see what can be done. I've inspected more of the car and a lot of the spots that looked like they were bubbling (so tiny I they don't even show up in pictures), were probably just off gassing solvents in the clear coat. I wiped down some of the areas and they actually left tiny streaks, but I could get the dots to go away even with just tiny wipes over them with my bare finger. That rear corner by the original antenna location is the only spot that has noticeable bubbling that's potentially deeper. I'm going to wash and wipe down the car later today to get a better idea of where it's happening. In the meantime, I was already scheduled at an exhaust shop down the hill from me, and a resonator (glasspack) is being installed in the center of the car right now which will make cruising even more comfortable.
  13. They are different cars. Very few parts are interchangeable. The door glass isn't one of them.
  14. izzy

    Apex engineered

    I had the same issue when I ordered my track pack. I requested a refund and Ohm gave it to me. He's a pretty nice guy, but I think he just didn't expect the amount of business. I ordered again a few months ago and got my suspension. It was a moth late and they kept telling me it would ship the following Friday. It seems to be an issue, but I guess time will tell if the product is worth the hassle. I wouldn't stress too hard. You can always get your credit card company involved if you don't get anything
  15. OK so my OCD kicked in LOL. Jeep JK Unlimited - inside and out with 4, tailgate, doors no top ~ 204 (204/10 gallons = 20.4sq ft to the gallon) 240Z - inside and out 2 doors, hatch, roof & hood. ~ 147 (147/20.4 = 7.2 gallons) So educated guess the Z would need 7.2 gallons of SC/Ceramic Lizardskin combined to get the same deadening. I layed it down pretty thick on that Jeep. I think you are headed in the right direction with the Dynamat. Any news on the paint?
  16. I am parting out a 1982 280ZXT 2+2. My daily is a 1976 280Z 2+2. I'm thinking about putting the door electric windows from the S130 in my S30. Does anyone know if the door window glass from each of these 2+2's is interchangeable ?
  17. That original deadening is pretty nasty. How much Lizardskin did you put on? You've got me rethinking my car on soundproofing. My JK is really nice but it has a fair amount of both sound control and the ceramic Lizardskin to the tune of about 10 gallons inside and out. I assume you are talking about the tinny/rattling sound when the doors close vs a Mercedes "thunk"?
  18. I'm sure it's about as difficult to remove as the original deading tar (?) based stuff that came with it stock. My car is very much a street/cruiser car. As much as I've cut weight in heavy dated tech in some areas like the emissions and original heater core/fan, I'm not concerned about every last pound. I bought the "mega pak" to be able to do everything. Shipping weight was about 30 lbs so I'm assuming between this and the dry weight of the Lizard Skin I used, I'm not adding more than about 45-50 lbs of sound deadening/heat control. That is MORE than offset by losing the 280z bumpers and bumper shocks, vintage air will be lighter than just the original fan, original tar sound deadening is all gone, emissions stuff is all gone, hvac vacuum control stuff and solenoids are gone, original engine harness is way heavier thanks to the AFM and some other bits... it's a lot. I'm expecting about 150-200 lbs net loss in weight or more from stock. Will never get down to early 240z weight, but I'm okay with that in the sturdier 280 chassis with stronger parts than the 240z came with.
  19. It's funny, after I bought my car and was stripping it down, I found some PO had put Dynamat on both sides of the trans tunnel. That stuff was so hard to remove, I find myself scared to use it.
  20. I would agree with NewZed, for someone that has already started the reinforcement journey I would be very interested in select pieces but not the whole kit.
  21. If you're on Facebook, there's a Megasquirt group which may be able to answer some of your questions. If somebody out there has done it, (especially odd, euro engines) it was probably with a MS unit.
  22. Thanks for the advice. There seems to be enough interest so far from the Aussie guys that I'll get kits made up. Makes sense to sell it in sub-kits and then a discounted full-kit. I'm currently in the process of doing the engineering drawings and then I'll get a few quotes from fab shops to see where the costs land. At this stage, the earliest I think I can get everything done is the middle of next month if there are no issues with manufacturing and fitment.
  23. I’m working in getting a early 260 back on the road and looking to clean up the engine compartment and sort out the seatbelt lock out relays. I’ve read/searched a bunch of posts here and in classic z forum on relay bypass’ and removals and have a few different manuals on the car and still not 100% of where and what all the components looks like. No labels on any of these anymore. Does anyone have a map or overview of where and what all the relays are in the car? I’ve seen one outlining all relays and components for a 280 fuel injection system and it was very helpful.
  24. Last week
  25. When it rolls off the ship please post photos, we would love to follow your build.
  26. They are still going and active on their FB site. Search FRP Automotive
  27. People will probably compare what you're offering to the typical piece by piece mods that are done, on the way up to a cage. Here is a thread that covers much of those mods. Might get more response if you break your package up in to sub-kits. More affordable and people can choose between the curvy stuff and the straight line power stuff. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49036-suspension-modification-faq/
  28. Oh, your car has a VqHr? Just build that. It's a great block. Wish I had that motorset. Same block as the VqVhr. Difference is in the crank/stroke. Hr -It has cam timing on Intake and exhaust. Similar to the vqde revup, tho iirc the cam sensors are in the back of the engine? Vhr cam timing and variable lift on intake, no variable exhaust timing iirc. You would need an entire vhr engine, harness and ecu, *maybe* cluster?, *Maybe* auto trans computer? Trying to think of all the things on the can-bus. The bolt pattern for the trans is the same on the hr/vhr, so it should work. The two *maybes* are idk if nissan can-bus systems check for serial#s in the different components. I think the hr trans and cluster will work if the Nats is removed, but that's a question for a tuner. Tbh if I had an HR I'd happily build that. If you want the extra displacement, swap the crank/rods/pistons out of the vhr into the vqhr
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