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  2. You won't do better than these https://mcasuspension.com/shop/catalog/302/240Z priced in Aussie $.
  3. What about an aftermarket ECU with it's own V6 harness that can be adapted??
  4. Today
  5. 22 rod ends are not going to be light either. I can't help but to guess that F/R conversion will add more weight than any performance gains.
  6. I just got on Rockauto and looked at several and even the 1980 280ZX shows 103 mm (4.055") as the wheel bolt circle diameter. You've supplied numbers but have you tried the rotor on the hub? Stuff happens. Not really sure what the issue could be. Hard to imagine that all of the rotors, from 240Z to 280ZX are the wrong size. They all show 103 mm as the size, at least for Raybestos parts. Could you share those three links? They'd be good to see. Might be that one is measuring bolt (actually lug) centerline diameter and one is measuring lug hole inside edge diameter. Might actually be two different, but correct, measurements. Maybe the rotors actually fit. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=391343&cc=1209316&jsn=2073 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1075555&cc=1209158&jsn=2143
  7. Nighttime brake update: Brakes used to feel really spongy after starting the engine no matter how well I bled them. Always had to pump once before braking to feel right. Turns out the rear cylinders are notorious for not self adjusting when using the hand brake like they should. Makes sense especially since I rebuilt eeeeverything and there probably didn't adjust them properly the first time. Rear drums were slipping off by hand basically. Manually adjusted them and it feels dramatically better already.
  8. Not sure why you want to reinforce the pedal box? The firewall can flex some, but the box is pretty solid. Installing dual MCs is a different topic all together. I don't think dual MCs are really necessary for the street, but if you really want them, the easy/cheap way is to modify the existing pedal box. You need to remove the box and cut access holes for the balance bar. Weld a bushing in the brake pedal arm, and weld a laser cut plate to the firewall with the 2 mounting holes or make the plate yourself. Easier I think than trying to fab up mounting a pedal set in an area that is difficult to access. But it has been done many times.
  9. If your first race car, does that mean new to racing also? Been to school yet? Then having a reliable car and getting as much seat time as possible is very important. EP is a very fast class and most have serious built cars in my region. Not necessarily the best class to start with but not impossible. I am mostly into vintage racing but have done some engineering for the EP guys.
  10. Makes sense. Can’t run anything but solid rotors at stock dimensions in this class so why not use a throw-way rotor. the ducting In the photos by Katman are certainly within my technical ability, so il play around with so sketches and see what y’all think. im definitely going to try cutting out some of the drum dust cover, as someone did further up on the post. My plan is to duct air to the lowest reasonable point, and leave the highest holes meshed open to exhaust the heat. Il have to read carefully on where I can pick-up the air stream from in the rear of the car. Pretty sure I can’t pull from below the floor pan. At this point, I’m just geeking-out. I really won’t understand the cause-effect of my mods until I start testing the car and breaking/warping stuff. i appreciate all the feedback from you learned folks!
  11. Just venting here----and trying to help out anyone else trying to order some stock, disk brake rotors for a '75 Z (or any other '70-78 plus Z). I tried ordered online stock replacement rotors for my '75 z from Rock Auto and what they sent was a rotor with a bolt circle diameter of 4.055 9 4 1/16"). The box was marked with the part number from Centric that matched their online listing number for a '75 Datsun 280z. So to return them I had to answer several questions one of which was does the part number on the box match the description that is posted online, so I went back and studied the description and under info it reads that the bolt hole center line was 4.055", which I didn't catch because to my knowledge there is only one bolt hole centerline for the early Z's (4.5"). There is no way to contact Rock Auto and notify them that they have a mistake in their online catalogue (I checked and all the other lines of rotors for the '75 and they all listed 4.055 as a centerline, so I sent them back and ordered from Parts Geek. I ordered Raybestos rotors (part num. 412570) for a '75 Datsun 280z and just got them in today and guess what, bolt centerline diameter is 4.055", so these will have to go back. If you read their small print it states that they will not cover return shipping even if the part does not fit. This is getting expensive. So I drove down to O'Reiliy Auto parts and tried to order a pair of rotors for a '75 Datsun 280Z and before ordering, I asked what the bolt center line distance was and ----------yep, he said 4.005". So I whipped out my phone and did a search for what the bolt center line distance is for a '75 Datsun Z and showed him three different sites verifying 4.5" as correct. I asked him how they could go about getting me the correct rotors and they shrugged their shoulders. So I drove over to an old established Auto supply store/distribution warehouse and, you guessed it, they listed the rotors cl as 4.055 but the counter guy looked up a number of suppliers and found an old listing for a Raybestos rotor for a '75 Z with 4.5" a bolt centerline distance and a part number of 9064R----- but they were no longer a supplier for them and therefor could no longer get them for me. So I came back home and looked up what NAPA had to offer and NOOOOOOOO, they listed the 4.055 cl, just as all the others. Has somebody supplied all of these outlets with inaccurate information regarding these rotors bolt hole centerline distance? Is there some Datsun of this vintage that these incorrect rotors have been mistaken to fit the Z? Has anyone else had problems with ordering stock rotors from one of these sources? I am currently discussing this issue with my counsel (Mr. Beam, that's Jim Beam) and thought I would post this situation. PS. I will be in LA next week and will stop by MSA and pick up a pair.
  12. Hey someone responded!!! Thanks! Great point on the CR! My plan was to max-out the head this time around for pump gas, Then drop in domed pistons when I eventually rebuilt the bottom end. With the valve overlap, it will likely settle around 10:1 with the stock bottom end on this head rebuild. This is my first race car, so I still have a very steep learning curve. I don’t have any direct experience with E85 or race fuel, for example. it sounds like you have some experience, and at a minimum have read the EP spec line! I am definitely all-ears if you have anymore advice or tips for me! So far, it’s just the technical folks at SCCA I have been in contact with. -Aydin
  13. Now that is some brake cooling! I think most switch to rear disk for convience. No adjustments, easy to change, pads cheaper than shoes. Both will stop equally. When racing stock brakes and running 20 minute spint races, I never had much issue as long as I changed pads frequently and didn't try to stretch out the life. It doesn't take much wear on the front pads before they lose all temp control. MaybeI Improved cooling like in the pic would help. I never ran cooling to the drums, but always did use finned aluminum. Oh, and most racers I know just use plain old cheap $40 solid rotors up front. Cheap to change out when they get a little wear.
  14. Sounds like you are on the right track. I would say most successful EP 2.4L engines are built for 8k or better. They replace rods with Carillo or Pauter. Forged pistons. Nismo bearings. Deep oil pan with windage or throw in a dry sump. All kind of standard stuff, done to lower risk, if not preventing failure. Why are you running 91 octane? EP max is 12:1 compression. You need all of that.
  15. It doesn't look like the sides of the roof structure are bent, just the front upper windshield frame. I'm not sure how the structure goes together, but you could possibly remove that piece by cutting spotwelds, and welding in a new one. DCW Classic on instagram is going to be taking on a much more severely damaged car, so if you have instagram you may want to follow them, as they are going to be documenting the restoration. If I'm right, and the roof structure can be repaired in that way, then the rest of the repair should be pretty similar to a typical roof reskin. Also, for the record, the correct way to remove a sunroof is by replacing the skin, as has been documented a few times here and on classiczcars.com, not by cutting the pillars and welding a new roof on. The pillars have multiple layers of metal in them, and if you just cut and paste, you wont be able to reweld the inner layers, and the structure will be compromised. As far as I'm aware, if you do cut at the pillars, you want to cut in sort of a Z shape the same way you would if you were to section a truck frame, so that there isn't just a single weld joint in a flat plane. But I don't think you'll have to do that if the damage is what it appears to be in the photos.
  16. Doing an auto to manual conversion, looking for a manual pedal assembly, preferably with the springs and bushings and everything, for a 77 280z.
  17. Small things taken care of the past week: New driver side ball joint. Was told it was a bit worn after alignment. Hard to tell honestly, but even decent Moog parts are dirt cheap on rock auto so swapped it out today. New battery cable terminals. My 12v+ to relay board running megasquirt/fuel pump/spark/injectors was connected only by the original fused connection for the oem ecu with a spade connector... Not ideal. Hopefully slightly more reliable connection now, and better spark at higher rpm. Ordered a variety of parts as well: -Carpet kit. Debated on custom tan/brown. The price of a black kit is just hard to beat. If black carpet with a brown interior is good enough for Mercedes and good enough for the butterscotch 240z's, then it's good enough for me -McMaster Carr weatherstripping. Hate the rear inner hatch seal and the top of the doors have a gap. Hopefully this solves two problems. -T3 Front and rear strut tower bars. No front tribar right now. Bit over what I could justify in the budget. Fortunately it's an add-on and not a completely different part. -Potential 280zx CV stuff... With my U Joints basically being welded to the shafts right now and longer days happening soon, I needed a cheap option. Was about ready to spend on futofab axles, but this allowed me to get CVs and plus a load of other stuff for less than the futofab axles cost. If I hate them down the road and they don't hold up I'll deal with it then.
  18. Yah but socket head bolts looks so cool! 😄 I used to work for an engineering firm who did not typically allow high strength (a.k.a. brittle) socket head bolts in structural applications. They had encounters issues with the heads twisting off during torqueing. Its nice to see someone finally is mass-producing a rear end sway that has good, strong supports for the diff. I agree with comments regarding the use of thick hardened washers. Looking good!
  19. Yesterday
  20. It's cutting and welding. It should be as strong as the original, which, obviously, is not very strong. Many people have replaced the complete roof, cut at the pillars, to get rid of a sun roof.
  21. I rolled my Z a few months ago and the roof is caved in. I have a line on a replacement roof but I have no idea if replacing it would compromise the structural integrity of the chassis. I was wondering if it was worth it to try and repair it or if I'm better off just finding a new chassis. The car has a lot of sentimental value to me and I'd like to avoid replacing it if I can.
  22. Car is still in the mock up stage, slow going. I read enough to choose these. Pull the trigger and don't look back.
  23. I recently got a motor from a y32 cedric that was vg30det but sadly he chopped the harness and I don't have any of it cause he tossed it🤦🏻‍♂️ as I tried to swap my motor out... It's right hand drive does anyone have any leads on where I can find a harness without having to spend thousands getting a custom one made 🙏
  24. Today i got the delivery from the guys at Sandstrahlen-plus.ch which i can really recommend if you're in switzerland... They had my complete chassis blasted (except the roof and a few areas i will replace anyway) and primered. The job is very nice if you ask me and it looks so much better with all the car in one colour, rather than twelve different layers of primer, bondo, paint, rust protection, etc.. in various states... Remember, this is how it looked a few weeks ago... Luckily the process didnt' reveal any new problems, only the bad repairs of yesteryear and the rusty spots i already new and have replacement panels for... $ I also made this little "unboxing" gif whlie unwrapping the car and thought it was fun to share...
  25. I wanted to get recent opinions on a 5 lug swap for the front only for my 280z. I saw that silvermine and T3 make new hubs, anyobe have any experience with either? Any other good options? Needs to be 5x4.5" Seems like the 300zx option isn't as attractive due to the scarcity (and thus cost) of the hubs. Thanks
  26. How did it go with the BC racing coilovers? I'm considering a set of the BC racing DS for my car or possible the KW v3 depending on the price
  27. How did it go with the BC racing coilovers? I'm considering a set of the BC racing DS for my car or possible the KW v3 depending on the price
  28. Agree about the large hardened washers, as I mentioned. I often wonder why places like to include Allen bolts in locations like this where there is really no need or advantage to them. These are good, grade 12.9 bolts (T3 likes to send weak and gall prone stainless hardware too, sadly), but one main issue here will be vertical clearance and in that regard Allen bolts are no better (maybe worse) than standard head six point bolts. Like I said, I think button heads will be the best approach, although the threads in the blocks are M10/1.25 and button heads in that threading are hard to find (Belmetric has them). IMHO the plates (as opposed to large washers) would be a bit overkill, and having seen the parts I am not as concerned by the connected "T" slot as you are. Keep in mind, that part is 1" thick. It is very rigid. I'm sure after running the car a bit, it will be quite apparent on inspection how the parts are holding up (if I ever get it running).
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