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HybridZ
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  1. Yesterday
  2. Thanks for the write up, I would have never thought it would need a harness
  3. Ironically, I was hoping that you would leave that one. It's a good example of what's going on these days and it didn't seem to have any hidden links in it. Now my post is hanging out in thin air. I would bet that whoever is creating the posts is watching to see the responses. They're using various forums to fine-tune the AI. Seeing if they can get a pseudo-conversation going. We're being used as beta-testers.
  4. Have to admit the chat-bot is decent. Didn't get the topic right but put the words in the right places. Well written nonsense. Interesting, but annoying. It's the future. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ChatGPT
  5. Correct, a 300ZX in the US market had a V6 engine and it's not possible to fit both an RB engine and a V6 in the same car as they have different designs. Swapping engines, such as an RB engine into another car, is a common practice. The appearance of a V6 engine is different from a straight six engine. The engines offered by the Japanese eBay store may differ from those in the US market.
  6. Have you solved your problem yet? I'm new here and find it very interesting that everyone here is very helpful to each other. I hope to also find great friends who share the same interest in playing cuphead action games with me.
  7. Last week
  8. Does anybody know what kind and size of thread is the cylinder head for water outlet?
  9. If the shifter linkage is loose or worn, it can cause a clunking sound when shifting gears.
  10. Kwik Performance Compressor Mounting Kit# L10291 Kwik Performance Kit sits high above the Passenger Side Valve Cover. Sanden Air Compressor($250) Designing the Card Board Template Trial Mounting of New Mount Front View of Mountront View of the Mountt Bolt Arrangement of Alternator Mounting Bolts Comparsion between Old Corvette Water Pump and New Camaro Water Pump Vintage Condensor#03701-OVA 12' Tall x 20" High x .83Thick was utilized($100 Amazon). It was bolted to Front Core Support in Front of Radiator. . New Foam was installed around Outlet Opening of Evaporator Core Unit for sealing purposes. New NAPA Expansion Valve on Evaporator Core was used. Factory Interior Wiring Harness had to be relocated to the Right Interior Panel to create space for High and Low AC Pressure Hoses entering the Core from the Firewall. Pic of the ARA Air Con Unit installed to Factory Heater Unit with Pressure Hoses to the Firewall. A !/2" Rubber Hose was also installed to allow Core to drain water out of vehicle. A High and Low Pressure Valve installed in-line to turn off Air Compressor to prevent its damage. top view of Kwik Performance AC Brackets Next-More Air Conditioning Work
  11. For a couple years I have researched LED headlights for my 71 240Z. I wanted a headlight that had a great beam pattern and looked like a stock headlight. The headlight I choose was the Holley Retrobright LED headlights in Modern White from Headlight Revolution. Here is the link Holley RetroBright Classic LED Sealed Beam Headlights | 7" Round (headlightrevolution.com). The Headlight Revolution website has great information and testing results on LED headlights. The good news is the headlight fits and plugs into the stock headlight bucket without any modification. I have used these LED headlights for several months now and I really like them. I now enjoy driving the car at night and see the road and deer in front of me for a change! They are pricy, but you get what you pay for here. With these LED headlights the current draw is significantly lower than the stock headlight current draw. This means I can use the stock 240Z wiring harness by swapping two wires in the headlight switches. This swap changes the polarity needed for the LED headlights. I was going to use the Hella H4 headlights and did test them, but it would have required a new headlight harness to handle the increased current draw. Here are the different headlights I tested and amp draw. Here is the 240Z light switch modification that’s required to switch the headlight plug polarity for the LED headlights. This wiring modification is completely reversible. You will need the following materials. Materials needed: 1. ATO fuse holder with wiring extension 2. 15 amp ATO Fuse 3. 14 Gauge jumper wire 4. 2 Female bullet connectors 5. 2 Male bullet connectors 6. Voltmeter or Test Light for testing LED Jumper Wiring Modification with ATO Fuse Holder Wiring Procedure: (Pictures below) 1. Remove the steering column cover. 2. Unplug the Black wires from the Lower Headlight Switch and the High Low Switch. 3. Unplug the Red wires from the Upper Headlight Switch and the wire that runs to the headlight fuse block. This is the red common connection to the LH and RH Headlight fuses. 4. Connect the Red wire from the Upper Headlight Switch to one side of the ATO fuse holder. Note: you will have to extend the wires on the ATO fuse holder, so you can access the fuse holder with the steering cover on. 5. Connect the Black wire from the High Low Switch to the other side of the ATO fuse holder. 6. Insert a 15 amp fuse in the new ATO fuse holder. This is now your headlight fuse for both LED headlights. The headlight 12v power comes from the headlight switch. 7. Make a 2” long jumper wire with a male and female bullet on each end. 8. Connect Black lower headlight switch female bullet connector to the male jumper. 9. Connect the Red from the Common LH and RH Headlight fuses male bullet to the female jumper wire. 10. Now you have switched the polarity at the headlight plugs. To test your connections you can use a Voltmeter or Test Light. At the headlight plug you will have one common ground and 12v+ for the high and low beam. 11. Install the new LED headlights and adjust the beam pattern per the FSM. This so you get the best beam pattern and you will not blind oncoming traffic. 12. Reinstall the steering column cover very carefully. (The plastic screw holes in the cover like to crack and strip out very easily). LED Jumper Wiring Modification with ATO Fuse Holder Installed Upper Headlight Switch High Low Beam Switch Headlight plug electrical outputs before modification Headlight plug electrical outputs after LED wiring modification 240z FSM Headlight Wiring Diagram Holley Part Number 71 240z Holley Retrobright LED Headlights These Holley LED headlights bring the headlights up to modern standards with a classic look. The have a great beam pattern that really lights up the road when you're driving and don't blind other drivers. They come in different colors and the LED bulbs are replaceable. I choose the Modern White color vs. Classic White. They really have worked well for me so far!
  12. Anyone offhand know the size of the threads in there for a flush plug?
  13. Thanks. I have received several responses that all, like yours, made too much sense to take the chance. So, I went ahead and got a lower coolant piece from an L28. Since I am going heater delete, this one allows me to put a flush threaded plug in the end, looks much better. No longer available through Nissan, so I found them at JDM-Parts.com. Not cheap, but.....
  14. I went ahead and got a lower coolant piece from an L28. Since I am going heater delete, this one allows me to put a flush threaded plug in the end, looks much better. No longer available through Nissan, so I found them at JDM-Parts.com. Not cheap, but.....
  15. That Gorilla glue might not be resistant to hot ethylene glycol and water. That is the inlet to the water pump so if it lets go that plug might get sucked in under certain conditions. You could boil it in a coolant blend since it's off and see what happens. Also, even though it's on the suction side it's still under pressure. Not really sure what the balance between suction and pressure would be at that area at certain times. So even though the gap is filled the bond between the metal and the glue or the rubber and the glue might not be strong enough to withstand it. Probably 10 psi +/-. Stuff to think about. Automotive applications are tough on materials. Since the hose fits on the outside, you could tap the inside and use a threaded metal plug without ruining the part for future use as an inlet. One possibility if the Gorilla glue doesn't make it. Good luck. https://www.gorillatough.com/product/original-gorilla-glue/
  16. @240zturbo nice projects. Are the downpipe hardware exposed on all of them? I've seen people mention on roadracing forums to not run a turbo blanket or shielding over the hardware, I've been wondering if that could be an issue. It was a nice weekend and since I'm still waiting on parts for reassembly I decided to pick up some tools for next week. A set of 3d printed L seal install tools from my buddy and a flywheel holding tool so I can stop asking my wife/neighbors/buddies for help at random hours.
  17. The 4.11 will be a mistake unless you go with the KA trans. It will be high reving on freeways.
  18. Hey All I used the JTR kit for my 280z conversion back in 2001 when I was going to put a SBC in college. Then I got a killer deal on a LS-1 and T56 package with all the accessories. Then I made a custom crossmember for the corvette mounting style. But now that the car is back on the radar I’m ripping it all out and installing an apex-engineered front end crossmember to my Tecno Toy Tuning front end suspension. I need to find a supercharger to install on the car. Any ideas https://www.apexengineered.com/s30---240z--260z--280z.html https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/gtx2-front-lower-control-arms-and-tc-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z
  19. 1-28-2023 UPDATE: Crank is done. cut .010 under on all journals and no has ZERO runout. Block was tanked and magnafluxed, came out great. Is awaiting boring now.
  20. Thanks to everyone who helped me.....I bought a K case R180 with a 4:11 gear set in it, all cleaned up and ready to go, including the bolt in sides. So good to go!
  21. 01-28-2023 UPDATE: I have been working on my water neck that splits off to the heater. Since I am heater deleting my 240Z I decided to look into blocking off the port in a nicer way. So, I went to Lowes and bought a rubber plug that was tapered, and got one that fit right in. Then I coated it with Gorilla glue and pushed it in. After a couple hours, I checked it and it was permanently in there. So I held it up and poured water from the inside which actives the gorilla glue and then filled it up with gorilla glue from the inside. Now, because this stuff expands, I had to keep wiping it smooth. This will all be sanded up inside and cleaned up, but once this is done, it will look much cheaner than a piece of tubing with a bolt in it to block it off. So, more to come on this. Also an update on the block, it is all cleaned up, was magnafluxed and all is well, and is going to be bored shortly. Its been so cold you have to enjoy ANY progress. Heres a couple of pics in mid finished state. Cheers.
  22. I've never experienced the issues you stated and other than my GTR, I simply tighten by feel and don't use torque specs on the downpipe or turbo inlet. BTW, the M8x1.25 can torque to 26ft-lbs per the table assuming the highest grade of "9T." I have 160K+ miles on the EVO and more than 100K of those miles was an aftermarket turbo and never had hardware failure just using out of the bin bolts from Lowes. I've also used the inconel shields on various projects (TT ZR1 & EVO) over the years and again, didn't have hardware issues. I hope you problem is solved!
  23. I was looking on the internet and couldn't find the unattainable replacement heater control valve. I stumbled on to this little jewel and saw the body was exactly like the 280z but the actuator was not the same. Mine had a broken diaphragm at the top which drained about a quart of anti-freeze into my passenger side footwell. I removed the top of the Volvo model and replaced it with the original Z so I could use the original actuator. Zcarsource used to rebuild them but they are not out of business. But this is an fairly easy replacement for $100. https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7482/Heater-Control-Valve-PV-Amazon-for-Volvo-MTC-171404-673452-108671 Just for those Z owners that don't have heat.
  24. Good news, thanks to everyone here (especially NewZed) I got my engine to start. That led to me figuring out I needed new injectors and a radiator. Fast forward to today, injectors and radiator are installed, but my fuel pump and turn signals/hazards don't work now. What happens is, the fuel pump will run every once in awhile, then when I try a turn signal, it all just shuts off. Then the pump won't run and the pump relay doesn't click anymore when key is in on position. My turn signals/hazards don't seem to work on their own anymore either. I thought it was a battery charge/load issue, but I'm at 12.77v. I also rechecked all the engine grounds, and they all seemed fine, but I redid them anyway. My fuses are all good, and my fusible links are good too. The EFI fusible link has 12v. The fuel pump also runs when I power it directly. I'm thinking it still might be a ground issue? Maybe my fuel pump relay itself?
  25. @240zturbo just to keep it simple and in one post, in my research there are ultimately 5 things seem to solve all turbo hardware failure issues: 1. Upsizing hardware to M10 2. Inconel or high temp alloys 3. Some form of mechanical locking hardware 4. Do not overtorque materials to yield 5. Don't trap heat in Edit: added 5 but again since this is a carb setup everything is conpromise
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