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  1. Yesterday
  2. interesting. most of my research suggests coolant getting in there. how can i relate the %80 loss in compression to what ever is causing a lean operation? are you suggesting a sticky valve is allowing some leakage? im lost here
  3. I thought both of these were from a Skyline GTT (r34) rwd, but for some reason the longer one I got second hand was a bit longer and has a few things in the back half in different positions. Does anyone know what I am looking at? I already have my driveshaft and trans mount, so it looks like I will be sticking with my current trans with synchro issues. Relative to the one I got with my r34 imported motor, the new transmission has a longer overall length, the shifter hole is further back, the mount is a half inch forward, and the sensors are in different spots with older looking connectors. Was there an update on the r34 at some point or is this some sort of Frankenstein transmission? both are pull-type.
  4. Last week
  5. Hey folks, I have a 280zx 2+2 , 5 sp Turbo production of Aug 1982 so it has the Hyd lifters. Car has 45k Orig miles. was modified by previous owner so it has an intercooler, wolf chip, 300 zx ecu, Performance Fly wheel & clutch, i believe an upgraded turbo & injectors. Car is a beast... it starts with the tiniest flick of the switch, and it idles beautifully. I do see & feel the extra vibration or imbalance as i sit in the car. when i first got it, i noticed some white smoke near the turbo. then few days later i notices white smoke out of tail pipe. i did dry & wet compression, #s are almost identical. led me to believe there is no ring issue ** compression results show issues on p1 & p5 P1 ~ 6 40, 132, 132, 131, 80, 132 ** leak down tests were P1 ~ 6 %80 loss Red , Green , Green, Green, Red %80 loss, Green air is only escaping from oil fill. there is no bubbling in the radiator or the reservoir. oil looks clean the borescope arrived today. Sadly piston 1 is extremely shiny & clean i can read the p90 on there. Piston 5 ironically wasn't shiny, it looked just like the other good pistons. i rotated the crank and watched the valves on P1 move up and down. I have not had the need to add any antifreeze, not sure why that piston looks shiny i used STP pro formula 10w-30. should it be on synthetic? much appreciate your feed back
  6. Wanted to share...figured folks here could see the humor/relate/etc/etc. Some interesting discussion followed that included several of our regular members and other active members of the Datsun "community". Enjoy... https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10160533369901559&set=gm.7765589086809495&idorvanity=327981873903624
  7. Thanks Berton, I have tried to locate the part in the red circle, what is it called, cover, lid ,base?!?. What is the height of this part? Cadillac don't exist here in Sweden so to find one i must look in US.
  8. I am looking to replace my mirror. So, am I correct to assume that the reason the Hyundai mirror must be disassembled is because the ball cannot be removed and replaced with the Datsun ball from the backside? So basically you hack up one Hyundai mirror to harvest the glass intact, and then you smash out the glass in the other Hyundai housing, put the Z ball inside and replace with the good Hyundai glass? Is this still the best option? I saw that someone mentioned the early Sentra mirrors worked as-is but I can't find those either.
  9. Hi guys, I will be working on installing microsquirt v3 in my California edition '76 280z stock car which came with EGR/catalytic converter and an exhaust manifold. The car runs fine with the exception of typical lean conditions which gets resolved with a potentiometer pot. The plan is to do it in 2 stages: Stage 1 (getting "my feet wet" with learning to tune the car with TS): Milkfab's 36-1 wheel (crank pulley mounted) Microsquirt v3 + IAC stepper adapter LM7 truck ignition coils Pro Tunerz fuel rail (14mm) intake/throttle body/GM ICV 14point7 spartan 3 v2 wb keeping stock exhaust + LSU 4.9 high impedance injectors Stage 2 Headers + Turbo upgrade In my infinite wisdom I figured I would kill both birds, aka project stages, with one stone - and purchased the Bosch 440cc 'green giants' injectors EV1 (part 0280155968), length 65 mm, Long style. Flow: 43,5 PSI (3 bar) 430cc / min = 41 lb / h. My assumption was to use them on a stock engine, get a turbo installed later, and re-use them. I got a great deal on them and they are authentic Bosch. After reading the mega manual, now I am concerned about the idle pulse width issues and fighting over enrichment conditions running a stock L6 engine. I spent a lot of time going through this forum looking for anyone running similar injectors on an n/a engine and found that in almost all cases guys are running turbo engines with large injectors (supra injectors are popular). The stock engine needs 15 lbs/hr or 158cc injectors. Obviously the 440cc ones I got are a major overkill. Am I over stressing over the issue? Will i be able to tune these injectors for the time being? Or I should keep on looking for 190-200cc injectors on Stan Weiss's site at http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm ? I found a few leads by cross referencing the part numbers and what rockauto has in stock. A lot of GB reman and BWD ones. Do you have any recommendations? I'd like to keep 14mm/14mm top/base long, high impedance injectors, preferably Bosch. Thanks! Den
  10. It doesn’t like my images hopefully this google image link works https://photos.app.goo.gl/GfKMSguQd2BaYS4H7 the order is different then I mentioned but should be obvious
  11. I’m pretty sure the ctsv shifter is unique to itself and puts the shifter pretty far back. I had to cut the trans tunnel. I will retry posting pics. The first one is just from google of the shifter linkage. And the second two are where it landed in my z
  12. Hello, Picture is all black for me. I'm also interested of what the linkage looks like as i thinking of going that route instead of the F-body way. /C
  13. Today was completion day! 3 years and 27 days of "restoration". It AGED me. I worked through the winters with little to no heat, bundled up choking on body filler dust, changing out the roof skin to eliminate the sunroof, to replacing interior, to complete custom big bore stroker engine building, swap from auto to manual trans, 4:11 K case rear end, you name it. Wouldn't do it again.....plowed through just so I could have an OLD one, a '72 240Z instead of a 280Z. Whew. this is a walk around in the one car garage I built it in, with one 120V electrical socket. It proves you CAN do it if you just jump in and go! Enjoy! click below to watch video: V1.MOV
  14. update for anyone in the future who may have the same problem. The wheel cylinder was put in the wrong way by the previous owner. I attempted to reassemble the brakes how it came apart, but the way it was installed before was wrong. Putting in a new wheel cylinder in the correct orientation solved the problem.
  15. Found another RSX seat. It's not an exact match. The stitching pattern is different b/w the seats, and the plastic trim in the headrest area is a different color. Obviously I'm not going to fix the stitching, and I'll just paint those plastic trim pieces black and be done.
  16. 07-13-2024 UPDATE PROJECT COMPLETE 16 June 2021 to 13 July 2024, that is 3 years and 27 days. Today was wash and cleanup day. I finished all that was on the punch list. With the flares being FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) I tried, and found out that caranauba wax works even better than Armor All on the flares. Nice and shiny. The big one was the door jambs. As the pics show, it's now good to go. I can't believe she is really done. Took a few pics of the day, but this is it as far as the build. She's done.
  17. Not sure if this is still needed or relevant but here are the pics!
  18. Hello, Slow progress......i have made new brackets for vacuum tank, ignition coils and some other tings. Did a test fit on the headers after final welding and they fit :) Started sanding the paint of on the engine. Air condition lines almost done and ready for painting.
  19. I know nothing about EV conversion. I think there will be more "kits" in the future for somewhat generic conversions. Kind of like crate engines. Gonna be a huge market someday. Hard for a hot rodder to ignore 1000 reliable HP. But I wish you luck and will follow to learn.
  20. JCan



    How did you address oil/crank windage on your z?  


    Ive seen pictures and it seems to me an easy mod to the existing oil pan could be made...


    Referring to the attached, a cover over the sump, maybe add a 1-way vent.


    Along the length, maybe a screen or scraper?




    ( A new topic 4 me )




    1. Leon


      Hi Jim,


      I'm running the stock pan at the moment. I don't plan on tracking the car and also run fairly low-grip all-seasons on my 15's (only reasonable option besides R-comps) so haven't felt a need to baffle the pan. I've long considered the Arizona Z/Kameari baffled aluminum pan (as you have pictured) but haven't been able to justify it as an immediate need.


      I've not done research on making a custom pan but implementation shouldn't be too difficult once you have a design in mind. I'd recommend drawing inspiration from the old Datsun comp pans as those have been well-proven.




  21. I just complete the install of the MFactory LSD in my 1978 280z and wanted to share my experience. First, I am a reasonably good shade tree DIYer and I found the installation to be very easy. I did have to purchase a dial indicator on amazon ($60) to check the lash on the ring and pinion as part of the installation but everything else I needed was standard stuff in my toolkit. I also replace the carrier bearing with ones I found on RockAuto ... TIMKEN 30209C (Standard Replacement) for about $95. I don't know if I was lucky, but the ring and pinion lash was well within the specifications using the original factory shims so no changes were needed there. I also found the ring and pinion gears were in excellent condition overall with good mesh pattern. The most time consuming part of the install was getting the differential out. My car's driveline is largely stock with the exception of the 280zx turbo half shafts using with Milkfab adaptors. So far everything appears to be tight and right. Why did I bother to do this? I bought the car online about 4years ago. Of course I did the right thing and purchased it sight unseen (based on description and pics) and found I had a leaky head gasket shortly thereafter. The car had sat for a few years prior to my purchase so I was not completely surprised it needed work. Luckily the coolant only leaked into #1 piston and I caught it very early. As I sorted it out I discovered the engine was a Rebello stroker (3.1) -- lucky me. Once I got things straightened out I found a drive line clunk and so I was off trying to fix the problem. I tried to work through the lower cost items first so I replaced the diff mount, secured a technoversions diff mount snubber, upgraded to zx turbo half shafts (rebuilt junk yard finds) as well as new 1310 ujoints for the prop shaft. Still no joy as the clunking continued. That meant I needed to check the differential center section. What I found was a lot of slop in the center section but the ring and pinion in great shape. I guess I could have gone the route of a rebuild of the open diff but, truth told, I wanted the LSD option and chose the MFactory option. So far, so good. I would also add that the purchase experience was very easy with the unit arriving within a few days after payment and exlifesaver provided advice on the install. Thanks again.
  22. Earlier
  23. Getting much closer to a maiden voyage. Suspension in and bolted up. Driveshaft shortened and half shafts refreshed. Here are pics of the rear fender wells and front firewall extensions from today. New problem. I was checking the clutch action and realized it does not engage. Which I think means the clutch/bearing has extended into the clutch and did not retract. Its a Tilton internal circular slave. I could have over extended it. More to investigate. Oh and cutting up a cool 280 turbo for some ZG flares and 18x9 wheels.
  24. The ZX 5 speed is definitely much weaker than the "71C" The later 5 speed was in the 240sx/Silvia/D21. I think maybe the truck transmission had slightly different ratios? If your goal is 450 I'm not sure it'll handle the power. Probably fine if you're not launching it or abusing it regularly, but that's kind of on the upper extreme for it.
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