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  2. I have a G35 with nothing wrong with it except a bad motor which sucked water into the intake, along with a G37 that was t-boned driverside door and totaled but everything else is OK and engine is immaculate. I also have both sets of keys. I wanted to swap the VQ37 into the G35 and figured it would work fine with a few things here or there...given how similar they are. I've never done a swap so I hired a mechanic I know to help me out and I'm learning as much as I can. I've thought about selling the VQ37 and buying a VQ35HR to put in just to make things simpler, although I'd rather use the VQ37 - not just for the small power boost but because I know its history due to personally knowing the individual I got both cars from for a very long time. Considering I have both donor cars which are bone stock, is it really that much more aggrivation if I want to go for the VQ37 or are we talking an extra full day or two of swapping parts over and plugging them in, getting the ECU to work w the 37 engine, and maybe a little wire splicing?
  3. Today
  4. Update time: managed to get a 4 terminal HEI Module in Germany and threw it in yesterday. I followed Eurodats description on classiczcar and put it in place in the passenger footwell. Car runs really! good now, no issues with engine dying anymore (more testing to come). The only issue was a hot-start problem, car wouldnt run after shutting it down hot. the weird thing, we pushed it back 2 meters and it immediately started again (was cranking over before but quite unwillingly). But I did fill up with E5 (presumed to provoke vapor lock) Battery was low-ish Temp switch sensor has a nearly ripped cable -> so more things to fix I don´t think those two things are connected. Thanks for your help everybody!
  5. From what I can tell it's just a feed from the other side of the trans/driveline tunnel, but if the pump wants to draw from both simultaneously, then it seems like I should at least run it to the bottom of my tank as well...
  6. Yesterday
  7. Haha. No resetable fuses on mine, but the LED indicators will be very useful! Will still take me a while to pair up everything. Pulled out my old wiring and trying to label things while I have it so I can removed stuff that is no longer needed and find things easier when it's in after doing the insulation. Will be a slower process than I hoped just based on how much time I'm having to spend in front of screens all day for teaching from home, but still much faster than a typical schedule since all my evening events for the rest of the school year are cancelled and I can't go anywhere. Doing what little bits and pieces I can when my brain isn't overloaded. EDIT: OH! It will also be a nice chance to move away from the fusible links and wire them in the same place as the stock relay area. The 4 relay leash board takes up less space than a populated stock "relay" bracket one the 280z. Cleans up the engine bay, and modernizes things all in one go.
  8. Thank you! your car in your sig looks fantastic! Been a bit but ive been working hard on the Z. Driver's side floor and floor frame support are welded in. Went a little better than the passenger side, the floor under the seat rails was not rotted the way the passenger side was so I only installed half the floor pan and didnt cut out the cross members, made for alot less work. I also test fit the 302 into the engine bay! I have Brian Layne's engine cradle print and fabricated the materials at work (CNC machining is so much nicer than grinding at home). I have the engine cradle all welded up and it fits beautifully. A little snug, I have to tap it in with a mallet to get it to seat all the way but that tells me its perfect. I wanted to ask people how they have fastened the engine cradle to the frame of the Z? I started by drilling and welding in thread inserts inside the frame but now that ive done a few and have seen how flimsy the frame material is, I wonder if I should go about it a little differently. Here is my thought; Drill thru top and bottom of frame. insert a steel sleeve spanning the ID of the frame and weld it in. Weld a thread insert top and bottom of the tube. Install a long bolt from bottom up (3/8-16 big nuff?) so that it protrudes out the top by about 1/2-3/4" functionally acting as a stud. When threading thru the thread inserts, the bolt should push or pull the thread inserts together, applying compression force to the welded tube inside the frame. That should transfer as much load from the engine cradle as possible. Attached is a drawing of what I am thinking.
  9. Any progress on your Vw swap?
  10. I am really looking forward to your build. I have a 240z that the previous owner did a poor job on swapping a ford 302, so I want to swap with the vq35 or vq37. Please post your swap adventures!!! Thank you
  11. It should be as simple as cutting power to the running light side of the blinker bulb, there should be a bullet connector on each of the wires going to the bulb.
  12. Hi all, My datsun 280z is import from cali, and has blinker lights on when headlights are on. Here in Holland it is not permitted to have blinker lights on as running lights. I have been looking in the internet but could not find a quick fix for this. Can anyone guide me in the right direction? Cheers, Joost
  13. Made a little more progress this past weekend. We branched off of the first tube that we had installed the last week and made the front two rails as well as the main hoop. We also ended up test fitting the trans tunnel to get an idea of how it would sit in the car. I'm pretty happy with the way things are turning out. Slowly but surely we are making progress. The goal is to finish the cage and triangulating the front rails before we move on to the back half of the car.
  14. Taking everything to the dump in another week. Speak up if now if your interested in anything before its gone.
  15. Yesturday was the first shake down of the 240Z. I put about 20 miles on the car, this is by far the fastest car I have ever owned. Faster then the Cobra kit I built that had a 302 with a supercharger. Faster then the twin turbo Nissan 300zx. The only problem I had was shifting the T56 into 2nd gear grinds most of the time. The T56 came from a 2006 with the LS2. I am thinking maybe the synchros are shot. I need to do some more testing. Make sure you don't forget the brake pedal Clevis pin retaining clip. I forgot and pedal went almost to the floor.
  16. People have had problems with broken solder joints in the ECU that were fixed temporarily by tapping or banging on the ECU with their hand or foot. Easy to try, when it cuts out reach down and start banging and see if it restarts. Opening and closing the door or the hood might have the same effect, explaining why it restarts for no apparent reason. If that has an effect at least you'll know what to look at. Apparently the solder joints at the plug connection are the bad ones. Some people have success reflowing them all. The loose key is very common. Almost everybody can pull the key out of the switch at any position. That's not an electrical problem though.
  17. Sounds like a loose connection somewhere in the ignition circuitry; judging from your statement about driving over a speed bump. WRT your question on the ignition switch/lock: no, I don't believe that would contribute to your issue. Once the ignition switch is moved to a particular position, those connections are completed and it doesn't matter whether the key is in the switch or not. My key is very worn, as well, and I can remove it from the switch anytime without any affect.
  18. Did some badge restoration using epoxy and red dye. The car will have red accents so hopefully these will look great!
  19. I never understood why people complain about the old Datsun wiring that doesnt have relays and then when people replace the wiring, they use a harness without relays. That is a very nice relay board. I am planning on linking a relay board into the speedway motor wiring harness (very similar to all the other universal ones but good reviews).
  20. What NewZed says is on the spot. Just make sure the pedal is moving for the whole stroke and calculate how much the push rod is moving, not the pedal. Also bench bleed really well to save trouble. At least on the R154 it is also recommended to do a reverse bleed since the nipple sits in an odd spot, unbolt it from the transmission and manually pump the cylinder under the car to push the bubbles up to the top. JMortensen is also on the money with an adjustable clutch stop. I think you would feel the engagement point and you can adjust the pushrod to locate it towards the bottom, but you can add a stop at the bottom to prevent you from overstroking the slave.
  21. This is fun, I have to live vicariously through others for at least a few years. A simple relay is pretty easy to install, one thing to check for is if the ECU sends a power or ground trigger signal when wiring. If you plan on wiring yourself, make sure to get a good set of tools. If not, interview the person who will be doing your wiring. Ask what kind of tools they use and ask for a test piece. I rewired an "expert"s work before, took me twice as long to wire the kit, their crimps didn't hold for anything, and the color coded harness was cut up and the wires mixed up. 5 hour job took 15 hours, over 10 was spent undoing their "pro" install. Yes, for fuel I would say go on the bigger side within reason, I had to redo mine and they are not fun to get to, at least if you want to route them neatly. For non-boost you probably won't need an MLS type gasket, granted I like the fact MLS usually don't disintegrate over time like the cheap generic head gaskets tend to do. The toyota 2jzgte ones are MLS or solid steel from the factory if I recall. I definitely would do the crank pulley, remove it and do the front main seal and the rear main seal, and consider changing pulleys. These motors are old and the rubber will disintegrate over time. If you plan on doing megasquirt, you may want to consider changing to a replacement 1JZ pulley. Those have 4 holes, two of which are unthreaded, but can be tapped easily. That will make mounting a trigger wheel for megasquirt way easy down the road. Alternatively you can just get something like an ATI that has a trigger wheel built in. Not running boost actually saves quite a few headaches as well, you won't have to worry about things like the breathers as much, although drilling those out to something bigger and attaching it to a vacuum source would be nice. That could be difficult with ITB's though.
  22. It runs perfectly after 20 minutes. What I observed: It now sounds more "powerful" , maybe better spark/change of spark? (I disassembled the resistor for measuring properly) We drove it again and it cut out from running perfectly. Tach dropped to zero immediately. Cranking afterwards moved the tach though. We brought another spark plug along, directly after the engine dying we checked and had spark (but that time you could restart it after 30 seconds, not like last time where it took 15 minutes). One funny thing, it cut out again while driving but then I ran over a speed bump and it ran again……. O_o What I will do now, get a HEI modul, coil (if I see it right, around 0,5 Ohm and NOT the 1,5 or 3 Ohm ones) and clean the ignition lock. One thing, the ignition lock is quite word, you can pull out the key while running and it continues to run. Could this cause those problems?
  23. Fuel pump control, fuel injectors, spark, etc. The Leash one is really nice, and if I'm not mistaken has the smaller form factor high amperage relays and resetable fuses. Resetable fuses are real useful in the teething stages and even down the road if you don't travel with a fuse kit. Edit: oops, yea what ^ guy said
  24. Here's the first thing that pops into my head. If you think this looks good, I say go for it.
  25. It has to be either a vent or return hose doesn't it, for a more definitive answer maybe try the 350Z forum.
  26. ^ Enquired as to shipping cost to my part of the world.^
  27. Wow its been a while since I have been on here. Still have the car and have done a lot to it since. I am currently making close to 400 plus hp with a flex fuel sensor. I removed the charcoal canister probably over 5 years ago to make room for A/C and intercooler piping when this thread was started and noticed that fuel would come out of the line that was left behind after the removal. I blocked it off shortly after and never had a problem since then. I have the tank out again just refreshing lines and was thinking of blocking the two lines on top of the tank off (one large one about 5/8 and the other is 5/16). I personally don't see the issue after going through the manual. It looks like the fuel cap is vented to allow fresh air in which would prevent a vacuum situation and at the same time I don't see an issue with building excess pressure in the tank. Although I suppose the real issue is when the tank is full and its hot outside causing fuel to work its way out of the filler cap. I'm guessing I have never noticed this since I typically only put about 5-7 gallons in and never fill the tank all the way. Mainly due to an incorrect hose being used for the large 5/8 hose (heater hose) detoriorating and causing partial clogs in my pre pump 100 micron filter. Still trying to decide what to do...
  28. Upgraded the flywheel to an Aluminum Fidanza 9lb. Accelerates much quicker now. For reference OEM flywheel = 27 lbs, Exedy = 16 lbs, Fidanza 9 lbs.
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