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@Redline280Z, any comments on my questions above?

03-25-2023 UPDATE. Cylinder head day. It took all day.....really gave me grief.:( BUT....I got it all done. I started by installing my new valves and then using some lapping compound and a lapping tool, and l got all the valves and the seats "used to each other". I then removed the valves in the same order, and then began the process of cleaning the whole head up.......this was a chore.....old toothbrush, a shop cloth and several cans of brake cleaner, but it eventually came clean. I then installed the cam towers and cam, and began putting both inner and out valvesprings on with new hardware. I used the spring compressor tool from Z car depot. At 99 bucks it wasn't cheap, but it worked! Not having a bench or a vice, I had to set the head on the ground. I had to use one foot to hold the head steady, and then use the tool to compress the springs, and move the tool around as it was compressed so I could push the keepers in. The key was to put the keepers into the retainer, then put my finger over them as I compressed the springs, and push with my finger, as I was moving the tool and pushing on it to compress as far as possible, and then it worked. When you watch the video it looks easy.....and half of them went easy, but the other half......it was as if it was telling me it didn't want to do it or something, but I persevered. I then installed the rockers, but took the time to swap out a few rocker studs with the ones from my original head so I had the best ones in the head I am using. As I was installing the stuff, I was spraying it off with brake cleaner. Then once all assembled, I sprayed out the valley again really good. Lastly, I taped off everything, and then wiped off the outside with a wet wipe, then gave it a coat or two of my Duplicolor Clear Engine Paint. When I cleaned the head exterior with a wire brush a week or so ago, it gave it a nice shine, and I wanted to keep that. The clear will hopefully do that. So tomorrow, I will strip off the tape and wrap the head up in a garbage bag and go for it on the block. time to get this thing rolling! Pics

03-25-2023 UPDATE. Cylinder head day. It took all day.....really gave me grief.:( BUT....I got it all done. I started by installing my new valves and then using some lapping compound and a lapping tool, and l got all the valves and the seats "used to each other". I then removed the valves in the same order, and then began the process of cleaning the whole head up.......this was a chore.....old toothbrush, a shop cloth and several cans of brake cleaner, but it eventually came clean. I then installed the cam towers and cam, and began putting both inner and out valvesprings on with new hardware. I used the spring compressor tool from Z car depot. At 99 bucks it wasn't cheap, but it worked! Not having a bench or a vice, I had to set the head on the ground. I had to use one foot to hold the head steady, and then use the tool to compress the springs, and move the tool around as it was compressed so I could push the keepers in. The key was to put the keepers into the retainer, then put my figner over them as I compressed the springs, and push with my finger, as I was moving the tool and pushing on it to compress as far aas possible, and then it worked. When you watch the video it looks easy.....and half of them went easy, but the other half......it was as if it was telling me it didn't want to do it or something, but I persevered. I then installed the rockers, but took the time to swap out a few rocker studs with the ones from my original head so I had the best ones in the head I am using. As I was installing the stuff, I was spraying it off with brake cleaner. Then once all assembled, I sprayed out the valley again really good. Lastly, I taped off everything, and then wiped off the outside with a wet wipe, then gave it a coat or two of my Duplicolor Clear Engine Paint. When I cleaned the head exterior with a wire brush a week or so ago, it gave it a nice shine, and I wanted to keep that. The clear will hopefully do that. So tomorrow, I will strip off the tape and wrap the head up in a garbage bag and go for it on the block. time to get this thing rolling! Pics

I assume that you're not French. They hate that label. Looks like I am one also. Merde!

I see Donating Members for a while now, but I used to see my status. I still get DMs on status though:

That's my point. I wonder if people see different things under their name than the general public sees. Or maybe tube80z changed a global parameter and everybody's subtitle changed. Your subtitle is "Donating Members" now.

Does it matter? I was a newbie with 13K posts a while back, now I'm a "Collaborator." I haven't found that my coffee tastes different in the morning. YMMV. EDIT--I expect that your inability to reply was to a FAQ post. Used to be that posts to that forum had to be approved by moderators, the idea was to keep that area easy to search, and use it for useful posts that deal with popular topics. Now anyone can post there and it shows up without approval, but nobody can respond.

3-24-2023 UPDATE: Today was the day to pick up all my stuff at the machinist. I took a couple photos at the shop then brought it home and got it back on the engine stand. I then went ahead and tapped the new pilot bearing in, and installed my Redi-Sleeve with Loctite 640. I then removed the excess with some diagonal pliers and the carefully went over the edges with a hammer....light taps.....then I installed the rear seal. USE A FACTORY SEAL. It is really nice quality and pre lubed. Still having some time, I masked off the block and painted it with "Old Ford Blue" duplicolor engine paint. Then after I removed the masking tape I painted over the core plugs and engine ID plate with duplicolor clear engine paint. Pics heavy, but here are some.

3-24-2023 UPDATE: Today was the day to pick up all my stuff at the machinist. I took a couple photos at the shop then brought it home and got it back on the engine stand. I then went ahead and tapped the new pilot bearing in, and installed my Redi-Sleeve with Loctite 640. I then removed the excess with some diagonal pliers and the carefully went over the edges with a hammer....light taps.....then I installed the rear seal. USE A FACTORY SEAL. It is really nice quality and pre lubed. Still having some time, I masked off the block and painted it with "Old Ford Blue" duplicolor engine paint. Then after I removed the masking tape I painted over the core plugs and engine ID plate with duplicolor clear engine paint. Pics heavy, but here are some.

Welcome back. Where'd you go?

Saw the same reply three times. So, it is possible. Not sure you understood my point about the subtitle/name/label change. For whatever reason, after a name change it seems the forum software re-labels people as Newbies. I don't really get much from the labels anyway. Moderators can label you, or the forum software has default labels. I am, apparently, a "Members" now. Plural. What does that mean?

Log out and back in. I made a change for you.

Yeah, for sure the hatch area can take hundreds of lbs of force. there is a reinforcing panel underneath the pillar, and it handles slamming the hatch for decades. My wing, as delivered, was supposed to make ~600 lbs of downforce at 150 mph. I'm probably going to make a second element for it, so might be closer to 1000. I think it needs some way to transfer that load to the floor. If you're using a wing like the one they tested in the wind tunnel (small) then yeah, just bolt it on and go.

Definitely interested in what you come up with. I've been thinking about going for this project as well. Just spitballing, but the frame edge around the hatch has never struck me as a particularly weak location, I would think it could handle the ~250lbs each without the 1/8 aluminum?

Profile now says I am an "Apprentice" but I have over 2000 posts. A few hours ago it said that I am a Newbie. I have over 2000 posts. So not a newbie. I could not respond to any posts.

I have over 2000 posts. So not a newbie. I could not respond to any posts.

I have over 2000 posts. So not a newbie. I could not respond to any posts.

I have over 2000 posts. So not a newbie. I could not respond to any posts.

Is it possible that you were trying to respond to an FAQ post? The FAQ reply problem has never been resolved. Your post count still shows. I know that after I asked to have my subtitle changed from "Clandestine Moderator" ('cuase people were thinking I was a real moderator) that my new subtitle was Newbie. Weren't you a real moderator for a while? Maybe it's just the subtitle change.

I'll see what I can find but I don't really know the rules on why/how the ranking works.

I have a Taurus 120 amp Taurus alternator on my L28 that the local generator shop put in when my original crapped out. Since the only diff. is # of cylinders that should work.

@SuperDan, @tube80z…need some help here pls. Thx!

me too, been here since 2015

Log in says I am a Newbie but have been here since July 28, 2001 and I cant respond to posts

03-23-2023 UPDATE: Today I picked up some items I had sent for powdercoating. Intakes in Bronze, Gloss black on the Carb heat shield, metal fuel lines, Air cleaner (both pieces) and brackets for the fuel lines. Oh, and the grill in Gloss Black. Now awaiting my SU carb tops and the balancing tube at the polishers. PICS.