Jump to content
  • Member Statistics

    Total Members
    Most Online
    Newest Member

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Robert, Pallnet fuel rail with 2 3/8” barn fittings for $50 plus USPS tracking? PayPal As I understand it, the 440cc 7mtge injectors are low impedance? thanks,
  3. Bump! moving and want this stuff gone. Any takers?
  4. Today
  5. Late to the party but do you still have the wiring harness? If so do you have all three?
  6. Sounds like the shop might have used too large of a press tool and it expanded the sleeve in the control arms. When I pressed mine out in the rear a chunk of the sleeve actually broke off and came out with the bushing because of how stuck it was. I replaced that arm and cooked the rest out before using the press. What part of AZ are you in? I might have a pair of front control arms sitting around, if I can remember where I left them.
  7. I bought the rubber bushing kit from zcarsource. Little expensive, but I think it will be worth it. @silverado22c thank you for your input. I appreciate you trying to help! @JMortensen So both bushings slide right out of the control arm, the old stock bushing and the new one. I’m thinking when the shop pressed out the bushings they ended up messing up the control arm hole where the bushing sits.
  8. Stock bushings need to be pressed in. If they're loose, that's not going to work. Probably the wrong bushing. Poly should be tight in the control arm. The idea of poly is that when you tighten the bolt down, the sleeve that goes through the middle of the bushing gets pinched in the crossmember and stays stationary, and the poly slides on the sleeve. IME the Z bushings are way too wide, so that when you bolt it all together there might be 1/8" or 3/16" of bushing sticking out past the sleeve. If you tighten the bolt down enough to pinch the sleeve in the crossmember, the way it should be, the bushings are so compressed that it makes it damn near impossible to move the control arm. What would really help here is taking the bushings to a belt sander and removing some of the extra bushing material.
  9. Who made the G nose? fitmint looks a bit off.
  10. Yes, yes, yes... A chap down here is close to painting and asked me my thoughts on the blue/white stripe. I wasn't in favour as I thought it more associated with Cobras but when I took time to examine the white nose/single stripe I must say I'm now very much in favour. Well done to both of you for thinking outside the box.
  11. Really need someone on the forum who has dealt with the front suspension to speak up, as I have not. I am wondering, as the poly bushings simply fit in the control arm only being spaced by a sleeve, if the fitment needs to be tight for the stock style bushings? You state the new and old bushings slide thru, which should not occur with pressed in style bushings. I the spacing excessive or close enough where you really need to push the bushing thru. On second thought about the polys, it looks like that step up is a lip to keep the control arms centered. I'm thinking really your cheapest way to move forward would be poly bushings. As you don't know if new stock style will be slightly larger to fit correctly or will be the same and slide thru. Then it is cost prohibitive to go with other control arms.
  12. I emailed T3 and confirmed with them that they use the standard 5x103 pattern, so that's great news. I also test fit the hubs onto my car over the weekend. With the turbo hubs, they clear the dust shield by over an inch. That means they might get pretty close the the spindle with 5-lug 280Z hubs since they're lower offset, but I think you could play with the adapter thickness to get clearance if necessary. The round part of the spindle is not much smaller than the tone ring, so some clearancing might have to be done to get a sensor in the right spot.
  13. Yes, those definitely appear to be OEM-style rubber bushings. Where did you source them from?
  14. I have a 1976 280z with the left corner rear hatch latch panel completely rusted out. I am looking for a piece of the rear hatch panel that includes where the weatherstripping mounts. The area requested is highlighted by the red box, more specifically the area outlined in yellow. I am located in the Panhandle of Florida Thanks for your assistance.
  15. This is awesome! Great to see someone take it all the way. The results can be amazing when you're willing to learn.
  16. @silverado22c I apologize for the delay, but I finally got some pictures. Can confirm I definitely have stock looking rubber bushings. Not sure if the picture will really tell you much. The new bushing also slides through like the old stock bushing.
  17. Yesterday
  18. I got what I needed. Thanks guys.
  19. Yes it really is quite nice, Changes colour in different light, it is an actual Ferrari colour called Blu Genziano used on an original GTO chassis no 3387 I believe.
  20. Checked air regulator valve, it’s not functioning but it’s not stuck closed. I cleaned it and the blade moves freely, even though I think the heating element is bad.
  21. So, I was randomly looking back through my old posts and stumble back on my intro for HBZ. 5 years ago I got hooked on Datsuns. I stopped posting to focus on reading and learning more. Because of the overwhelming amount of information available about these cars I didn’t find it necessary to ask many questions. I stopped updating my introduction after i bought the 76 280z. The 280z has come along way since then! In the past 5 years it’s seen a lot of redoing. Iv’e changed wheels, flares, engines, ECUs, a few times. Although not the most efficient way to modify a car, it is allowing me to learn, improve and keeps me interested in the process. My only underlying goal with modifying it is to keep pushing toward the car having a “special” feeling to it. I can’t define a “special” feeling exactly but it’s a feeling i would like to have when i look at the car in the garage, sit in it, show it off, and while driving. A few years ago I swapped the l28 for a l28et. My first engine swap. It went pretty well and the experience was a huge confidence booster. It made the car feel way better on the highway and the exhaust note was awesome! The next year i decided to hop up the power a little and add Injectors, FP, larger turbo, IC, 3in exhaust and MegaSquirt. I had some help tuning and was able to learn a bunch about wiring and street tuning. The power gain was pretty substantial. Although I did not get a change to dyno it, my guess is it made around 300hp with a lot of torque. I really felt like this was the sweet spot for the car. Enough power to feel “fast” compared to a modern car, but not too crazy. A few months later I decided to start liking the Gnose. The Gnose really transformed the look of the car. I took the car to Gridlife Midwest and it won Best JNC classic! A proud moment for me as it was my first car show and i honestly didn’t build it with the intent of entering or winning any. Last winter the Z got some greatly needed upgraded wheels, and a RB25 fell into my lap. I wanted to keep the white blue contrast going and had some Wantanabe RS8s custom built for the Z. The wheel size and width are totally for athletic purposes and I’m fine with that. I had been wanting to do a RB swap since before i did the l28et swap, they where just too pricey at the time. That winter I stumble across a cheap local RB25 for sale locally, and decided to take the plunge. I refreshed all of the accessories on the RB and installed an upgraded turbo, turbo manifold, ECU Masters EMU Black, custom wiring harness, 1000cc injectors, even larger FP, fuel rail, and open dump external waist gate. I also took the opportunity to clean up and paint the engine bay. People would always ask me to see the turbo swap and with how messy the bay was before i was kinda embarrassed to. I learned so much during the first swap the RB swap came out so much cleaner and came together much more easily than i would have thought. This time I did all of the initial tuning myself and took it to the dyno to get it fine tuned under boost. Made 400hp on 93. The RB25 make the car feel much more modern and refined when not in boost. On boost its pretty intense! It kinda feels like having a loaded gun on you. I was missing with the idea of tuning it on e85 but i think I am good with the power it has for now. I’m also still using the u-joints in the rear, so I am planning to upgrade the whole rear end soon. Also happened to win a showcase award at Clean Culture MI! In all, I've been humbled by how much other people enjoy the car. I've met interesting people, made good friends from people just starting conversations about it. HBZ has been a constant resource for me throughout this project. Thank you all for the quality info and keeping the forum alive!
  22. Sure thing man, picked up an 04 GTO, it's been wrecked pretty bad in the front and passenger side but the motor/tranny seems good. So, big step ahead, now lot's of research and reading on how to make it all work lol. This forum and posts like yours are very helpful. Thanks
  23. Body rigidity and more planted rear end under power
  24. today i received these control arms. Seems decent quality, 4.8kg weight, can be used with stock rubber inner bushings. PU bushings which came installed seems to be softer than energy suspension bushings i had. Outer bushings are tight fit, couldn´t take them off by two fingers. Here´s my only alignment sheet i´ve done. i dont know if left toe comes from worn PU bushings. rear toe might be leveled between left/right by just moving transverse links, cant remember how loose their holes were. Here´s quite similar stuff to 240Z, about toe perspective. I think im going with 2mm toe-in on both axles
  25. I have no idea where you've going with this build, but I'm very excited for you to get there.
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...