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  1. Today
  2. Looking to buy a set of 16x8 wheels with 245/50/16 tires to run on all 4 corners on the most recent 280z project. Both previous S30 had the same rim and tire combo with +0mm offset. Had to roll fender lips on the rear to clear. Planning on running rear coilovers on this car, like the previous cars. Anyone with 8" wide rear wheels with +20mm? No spacers, etc.? Thanks!!
  3. Invincibleextremes

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Went digging in the junkyard today. The hybrid cv joint idea is a no go, mustangs used 8 balls while the explorer (2004) used 6 balls. Would have saved me $125 by not having to spline both ends. But not a deal breaker. Still much cheaper than the 800hp axles, just not as cheap as I'd hoped. Here is a picture that shows why i picked these axles as cores. The shaft in the middle is the mustang one that i cut a section out of to make the perfect length.
  4. My bad....I completely missed the fact that you have a 240. My apologies. A 260 or 280 tach should be relatively easy to come by, if you decide to go that route. The JTR manual is available for $39: https://jagsthatrun.com/products/copy-of-v-8-conversion-manual-for-volvo-200-series (Yes, I know the hyperlink says Volvo; but it should work and get you to the correct manual on the JTR website.)
  5. Yesterday
  6. I have never seen a SBC crack a valve cover. Interesting. +1 for Summit Racing tech. Hit them up. Speedway motors too!
  7. grannyknot

    ANOTHER Datsun Z/LS3/T56 Swap Thread

    Sweet, and you still have room behind it for one of those small Braille batteries if you want.
  8. 1970 240z

    Hybrid Z t-shirts and/or stickers

    I could go for a couple of shirts and stickers too if they're offered again.
  9. Lazeum

    Ignition Control Options

    @Ironfoot In your 4G Prelude, you had a dizzy but timing wasn't controlled inside dizzy. It was already ECU managed providing proper timing.
  10. Lazeum

    Ignition Control Options

    Electronic ignition is not about getting proper timing at max rpm, it is also how you control timing that matters. Any good "old style" dizzy can do that. But can you easily get 16° of advance at idle, 36° at high load/high rpm and 50° at low load/medium rpm? You can only achieve this with an ECU and good sensors. People say you cannot run Triples with vaccum advance, it is a shame because we're loosing driveability big time without it. Read document attached to convince/educate yourself if you'd like, it is full of good info. Pertronix or other systems going into stock dizzy without any kind of adjustments are a good upgrade over stock but nothing compared to full timing control. Weber-dcoe-fuel-economy-study.pdf
  11. Nothing can ever be simple.... I knew it might be a bit of a challenge mounting the oil tank. A lot of track cars mount it in the passenger compartment, which I didn't want to do...for many reasons. I ordered a smallish tank (1.5 gallon) and figured it would fit somewhere in the engine compartment. But it really didn't. It "might" have fit between the radiator and front of the engine on the driver's side, but I can't be sure as I do not yet have a radiator. It would be close at best, and kind of lame in terms of weight distribution and all that (not that a gallon and a half of oil is all that heavy). So the only decent solution seemed to be more cutting/grinding/welding. I made sort of a "perch" for it below the OEM battery location. My plan is to install a bulkhead fitting in the drain hole at the bottom of the tank, to protrude through a hole in the bottom of the "perch"....to make it easy to drain the oil when needed. The bottom plate is .10" so it should easily support the tank's weight, and then I will just use one mounting bracket to hold it against the firewall. Mocking everything up it seems like this will work.
  12. alright, thanks, I think I might just chase the signal converter then, I should consider getting a copy of that book, although it's not my car (my kid's) and he may or may not be in it for the long haul, I 'should' just buy it from him, I freak'n love this thing. I"ll be along in a week or so with rear suspension questions, maybe later today.
  13. I suggest putting your stock headlight bulbs in until we can get both hight & low beams working correctly. That would remove the led variable from the equation. Did you check voltage at the headlight bulb connector or at the headlight sub-harness connection (round connector) at the inner fenders? There are two Sub-harnesses, one for each headlight just on the inside of the fenders near the radiator bulk head. That round connector at the sub-harness can get tarnished and need cleaning, resulting in too much resistance. Power runs from the fuses (one for each headlight) through the C-4 (White) connector located in the passenger foot well (see pic), through the engine bay harness, then through the headlight sub-harnesses, to the headlight bulbs. 1) Clean the Fuse connections well. What is the voltage at the fuses? 2) Clean the C-4 (White) connector located behind the white mount up in the passenger foot well, check voltage here. (Red/yellow=Lft headlight & Red=Rt headlight). With this connector disconnected you should have no power to the headlight bulbs. 3) Clean the Sub-harness connections as well and check voltage. Are you getting only one 12v power source at each of the Sub-harness connectors? Each of the connectors contains two grounds (high & low beams) and one 12v (pwr from the fuse box; Red/yellow=Lft headlight & Red=Rt headlight). 4) What is voltage at each of the headlight bulb connectors after cleaning & testing through steps 1-3? Do you have multiple 12v power sources here but not at step 2? It's normal to have a little voltage drop as we go along the harness, but it shouldn't be excessive. Refer to the previous diagrams for wire colors as needed.
  14. Per JTR page 10-2, the 240z tach will not work with an HEI distributor. The 260z and 280Z tach will work with the addition of a 15k 1/2 watt resister and some wiring changes. The guts of the 260Z/280z tach have to be swapped into the 240Z tach housing because the 240Z/280Z tachs mount differently.
  15. This one? https://www.amazon.com/Datsun-Z-V-8-Conversion-Manual/dp/B0006EVOAK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=jtr+manual&qid=1548178839&sr=8-2-spell $263.84 (I've seen it for $40ish elsewhere) Care to share what you did?
  16. Yep, I've done with two different cars in the last few years. It's discussed in the JTR manual, if you happen to have a copy handy.
  17. Gollum

    Megasquirt 2 Sensor Monitoring

    Seems there's at least a couple people who went for an android based CAN bus dash solution, which I find interesting considering all the dedicated race dash devices appear to be MCU based, not MPU based (think arduino not raspberry, no real OS just compiled code that direct acts upon the hardware). http://www.valvers.com/open-hardware/projects/android-dash/ (pretty stale) https://blog.arduino.cc/2016/05/31/maker-installs-an-android-tablet-in-his-cars-dashboard/ (less stale) And I think I knew this in the back of my mind somewhere, but RealDash is likely the smoothest bet to adding an extra IO box and using with with MS2 data for a dash: http://realdash.net/manuals/realdash_can.php But of course, you're running an Pi already, and want to use it's ADC built in. Sadly, I haven't found any way to grab non-Megasquirt data into tunerstudio dashboards. I'm sure it's a potential feature Phil could write in considering the work already done to grab other sensor data in shadowdash, but again, I haven't see success of what you're looking for. This is also why I've been so on the fence about what to do about dash hardware/app. I've decided for my own project for that now I'll be using shadowdash on my main phone and deal with the limitations of MS3X inputs.
  18. Gollum

    Megasquirt 2 Sensor Monitoring

    You're fairly limited on extra inputs with MS2. I'm running MS3X and still finding myself wishing for more ADC inputs. That said, there's two spare ADC on the MS2 3.0/3.57 setup on JS4/5. These would work for extra inputs like oil pressure and fuel level, but a typical resistance value like the OEM fuel sender or oil pressure will require a pull up resistor from TPSRev 5V, and the resistance curve. You only get one custom sensor curve, otherwise your fuel level/oil pressure would have to use the same curve of another sensor, like MAP, CLT, MAT, EGO. Since the nissan oil pressure likely doesn't use the same temp/resistance curve, I'm opting for a linear pressure sensor which allows trivial calibration, and you can run a custom linear calibration on each custom input. That said, mine are in the mail. Should have them installed this weekend hopefully. These are the units I went with. https://www.ebay.com/itm/202353428547 Keep in mind for oil pressure you'll need a 1/8 BSPT to NPT adapter. What I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NWZ3TUI As an aside, this seems to be a common topic and the answer people wish existed was "use CAN bus for extra IO". Except I can't find a single working example of MS2 getting extra INPUTS from CAN bus. I can find lots of gauge products with extra IO that operate on canbus that claim megasquirt compatibility, but when you read their user docs they say the extra inputs are for MS3+ only. Now, if you were running a pure CAN Bus based display (haven't looked into viable CAN->Android dash solutions yet, honestly hadn't crossed my mind until just now) then a separate GPIO->CAN controller could broadcast data long with MS2 and you could get all that data available to the dash. A simple adruino would fit that bill nicely, and give you piles of extra IO to work with. You just wouldn't be able to do anything with it inside the MS2 ECU, which also means you need logging at the dash side, or separately on the arduino itself.
  19. theczechone

    Ignition Control Options

    I had no more responses from the vendor. I was thinking about using an optical pick up in the distributor too. Perhaps someone will just need to bite the bullet and give it a shot. I am still building my engine so i'm not ready.
  20. limpsilver

    WTB : Z with more than 200hp

    Hi. I'm looking for a Z with datsun or nissan engine (no LS, JZ, etc). I want at least 200hp. I want interior close to stock. I don't want rust (who want it...). 240z if possible but 260 and 280 also considered. In live in Europe, it could be from Europe, US or Canada. Budget from 20 et 30k$ depending on the car of course Thanks !
  21. So all you do is add a resistor and the 6 cylinder tach reads correct for the 8 cylinder?
  22. taaron

    Megasquirt 2 Sensor Monitoring

    I've got the original oil pressure sending unit. Any chance that would work? I"m also just looking at the wiring diagram and cannot figure out where it'd even go
  23. P.s. It's easy to remove the stock tach through the front of the dash, which will make it much easier to work on vs killing yourself working on it from underneath the dash.
  24. I've never had a problem running the stock tach with a GM HEI or the stock Chevy distributor. Typically, some additional resistance is required in the signal feed line; but no other changes required IIRC.
  25. Futofab is having a nice 15% sale on pretty much their entire inventory all this week....don't miss out! Sale ends this Sunday/Jan 27.
  26. jhm

    Hybrid Z t-shirts and/or stickers

    Yes, it's been a while since any were produced to my knowledge. A former member ran point on the last major production run that I'm aware of and that was several years ago. You could try posting in the Wanted sub-forum, in case anyone purchased extras and might still have some left over.
  27. It looks like gaps on either side of the valve at 35%. At 0% there is a gap on the right but none on the left. It looks defective to me.
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