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My 1972 240Z has me majorly stumped. It seems the alternator is not getting the message that it needs to recharge the battery. I’ll try to not write a novel, but here’s some background. I’ve owned it for just over a year and drove it all last summer with no issues. Then I accidentally left the lights on when parked and had to jump start it. The ammeter swung to the right while the battery was being charged as I drove it and then it started jumping around. After a few days of it jumping around, it returned to center and has not moved since. The car continued to run just fine for a few weeks, then quite charging one day. It will jump start just fine but will not charge the battery on its own. There was never any smell of wires burning and all wires appear to be in excellent condition. Here’s some pertinent info: 1 - The battery is a new (2024) AGM battery. It ran well before the lights being left on. NAPA has since tested it as being good. I have also tried using two other regular deep cycle batteries. 2 - The alternator that was on the car at the time of lights being left on was (I think) from a 260 or 280Z. A PO had replaced the factory harness plug with a round style connector that Nissan used for the later Z’s. It had an external regulator. It now has a new 280ZX style alternator with an internal regulator from zcardepot.com. NAPA has tested this alternator as good. I’ve replaced the round connector with the correct style connector (vintageconnectons.com) and have installed a resistor plug/connector from MSA. The black/white IGN stripe wire passes through the resistor and leads to the upper terminal of the alternator’s connection. The white 12V wire jumps to the lower terminal on the alternator’s connection. 3 - I have removed the ammeter and joined the two wires together. 4 - I have inspected the fuse box. 5 - I have tested continuity between every two points I can think of, both 12V and ground. Have even test each fuse. Everything tests good. 6 - I have tried running a wire directly from the 12V sensing wire on the alternator to the starter where the battery connects. 7 - The fusible link is new and tests good for continuity. 8 - All the wiring (aside from the alternator’s connection that was once altered) appears to be 100% factory. 9 - I have added (prior to the lights being left on) a headlight harness with relay and have upgraded the wiper motor to a Honda unit, but both of these items are on an isolated 12V circuit that is not even plugged in right now. 10 - I have searched numerous message boards, blogs, and studied the FSM. There is a lot of great information available, but nothing that I can find that has worked. None of these things (or any combination of) have made any difference. Here is what is happening when connecting a multimeter to the battery (or any 12V point): The charge holds steady when the engine is not running and the battery does not drain if left for a few days or even weeks but will slowly drop with the engine running. It will only charge if I add a portable battery charger plugged in from the wall – with the engine running or not. This circuit on the car is quite simple, so I can’t think of anything else to check. The engine runs like normal while it has enough charge so I don’t think the coil or other ignition components are causing the problem. Could they? Any ideas on what to look at next?

Chassis stiffening always a good thing. Here's a link to some good ideas, if you're looking for additional inspiration. https://imgur.com/a/chassis-stiffening-inspiration-R27sh

Thanks it feels good to be working on it semi-consistently again. I still haven't had my half day this weekend, but I had an hour tonight so I started final shaping the lower condenser mount. I drew what I had conceptualized on a piece of cardboard a few weeks ago but decided to freestyle it as I was filing things down. I could do a lot more but I think I'm going to punch some speed/air bypass holes on the bottom of the mount and call it. The mounting is Setrab sandwich style soft mounts with high temp silicone sheet. I'm going to try to wrap this tomorrow and weld in the top soft mounts to the intercooler air plate.

Lookin good!!

Unbolted the driveshaft today, not enough play to get it out, but should come out when pulling the engine trans I guess. Picked up my first welder, going to practice for a few weekends then try and weld these fender braces in.

Good evening gents:), As my ECU doesn't seems to handle PWM controlled fans i got introduced to a new world, Arduino uno. I only have High/low in my ECU so to run my expensive Corvette C7 fan i have to buy an Arduino uno to solve this problem. This is a completely new world for me so this would be a side project to get it to run on high and low. Thanks Christian

Ford 8.8 Super Duty Rear Differential Conversion Kit for my 71' Datsun 240Z There are several different companies that have Ford 8.8 Differential conversion kits for S30 and later model 260 to 280z. However, most of them utilize the earlier model of Ford 8.8 Independent Rear Suspension from mostly 2005 Ford Explorers,Mercury Mountaineers and other SUV models. These differentials can handle 400HP and some even have Limited Slip in them. So they have been utilized in Drift Cars,Ford Trucks, JDM Cars and even BMW Racers. But, finding one is difficult because high demand and limited supply. Fortunately,a New and Stronger Version of the 8.8 came about-the# Super Duty 550 Differential with started to appear in 2015 Mustangs with Coyote Motors. This model can handle from 600 to 1000HP ( with beefed up). It weighs over 100 lbs and comes a Torsion Limited Slip. I ordered my Super Duty 8.8 from Summitt Racing for $1300with 3.55 Gears. + shipping. At the same time, I ordered the Sonan 8.8 Drive Shaft Adaptor from Summitt Racing for $179. They manufacture Two Versions of this Adaptor. One for Manual Trans and One for Automatic Trans. The difference is the number of splines on the Pinion Shaft. My 3.55 pinion takes the Automatic Trans Adaptor. It is constructed of Billet Aluminum and handle alot of horse power. This adaptor costs about $179. Next-Installation of Incredible Extreme 8.8 Differential Conversion Kit

You are being VERY detail oriented. It is paying off. Really looks great. Thanks for sharing.

For people who still run old-school large-displacement V8s (we still exist, right?)... any thoughts on the somewhat-new (been around for 5-6 years) Edelbrock AVS2 carb? This has annular boosters on the primary-side, as opposed to dog-leg. Some articles here: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1908-inside-look-new-edelbrock-avs2-carburetor/ and here: https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/tuning-edelbrock-avs2-carb/ . The objective is throttle response, part-throttle drivability, and overall good manners with minimal fussing/tuning. Application is my perpetually-under-repair 454. I'd be looking at the 800 cfm version with manual choke. BTW, there are a few mentions of the AVS carb on HybridZ, but they're from 2014 and earlier.. for the old-style AVS (dog leg boosters on the primaries), for example here: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/42427-edelbrock-issues/#comment-352025.

Hello to you all ; I have forgotten how small and tiny my car is after taking it down from the stands After i had the engine run in the car i started chasing trouble codes, two on the throttle pedal one on crank relearn and one on clutch position sensor. The throttle pedal shows two codes, one high and one Low, clutch sensor and one crank relearn. "P0122 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low (Permanent) P0223 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit High (Permanent) P0315 - Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned (Permanent) P0807 - Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Low (Permanent)" About the crank relearn, i'll wait with that until i can drive the car i think. Clutch sensor, is it wise to have one? I have no problems making a braket for one and wire it in. The throttle pedal is the one supplied with the GMPP harness and ECU and it looks like it is a Cadillac unit, and is wired as a Cadillac but i'm using a Camaro ZL1 ECU, could that be a problem? I have used schematics from a 2012 Cadillac and it seems to work except for the FPCM. I have tried to get "Alldata" and the "acdelco" schematics but no luck as i have no company/business. Have a nice evening Christian

Just did a Dyno run. Never mind the Rpms on the results. Used an external tach which wasn't tied into the Dyno. 175 hp and 204 torque. Dyno 3.1L 1-5-2024.pdf

01-17-2025 Turbo Project Update: I decided to jump on the jobs I have been putting off and get them over with. I re-bled all my brakes using my Motive power bleeder. Then I reinstalled all my wheels, dropped the rear back to the ground, and jacked up my engine under the oil pan again, to see if I could get any extra room to work around my brake master cylinder. Maybe 1/16 more, so I will make it work. I also drained my 20W50 oil and switched to a full synthetic 5W30 because of the Turbo. I think it is the way to go, being full synthetic, it will handle higher temps better and it flows faster. I added a bottle to Risilone ZDDP additive to make sure everything is well lubricated. I also managed to finally get my intake on the car. Before coming in, I jacked the nose of the car way up on jackstands, so later I can install the turbo drain hose. Every step forward counts I guess.

Things got super busy again but this evening I went ahead and hardlined the oil cooler. I'm a bit out of practice on stainless so I accidentally put a couple of tooling marks in the tubes. The line sections are short so I'll work them out with a hardened rod when I wash everything out and rebrush the finish for final assembly. It's one of those things where I need to remind myself to slow down and think things through otherwise I end up making more work for myself or waste material. I also hit the AC Hardlines with some steel wool and wd40 to get a uniform finish but it's is a bit bright for me. I may go back and redo those in brushed as well. I realize I keep getting busy so this weekend I'm going to try and dedicate a solid half day to wrapping up the turbo cooler packaging updates.

Rear Quarters are done.

My K swap isn't done yet, but under 4k isn't impossible if you score the right deals. Done with a "lazy wallet" 6k is overspending but not impossible. Go price out JUST a TR6060 locally, or a new T56 Magnum + flywheel, clutch, etc. Doing a RWD K swap is definitely more work than a LS swap, even if you had off the shelf mounts. Tuning the ECU isn't open source/cheap like it can be with the GM stuff. You have to do something about the intake manifold which can cascade into other choices. There's less documentation about exhaust manifolds/headers that fit. By contrast, you can buy a truck LS for $800-1200 depending on what gen you want, and toss an auto box behind it, and have a whole swap done for under $3k if you're pinching pennies, and most of the parts "just work" or at least are known quantities. Much less time fiddling solutions together. But you want a manual transmission, right? The only budget LS option is Muncie 4 speed, which I'd argue isn't a terrible idea. When I pulled the trigger on doing K24, the cheapest TR6060 within a day's drive of me was over 3k. The cheapest T56's in "ran good in my 250k mile F body" that have been passed around like a peace pipe, was still over $2500. I've seen some deals since, but I was hunting for 4 months with NOTHING interesting enough in price to jump on. By contrast there's SEVERAL AP1 transmissions I've seen go for under $1k. The AP2 transmissions are going for more, but there's little documented about them that's definitely better/stronger, and the ratios aren't much different if I'm honest. The transmission is really what kills the LS as a comparable swap to proper "budget" swaps. If you're fine with a 4 speed, sure it's a great budget option. But realistically I think I'd rather have a VQ35DE with CD009 than a LS3 with a Muncie, and I don't love the VQ. Now as for power. It depends on what you want to do. A K series should be nearly 200whp stock if we assuming you've got a decent base tune with basic bolt-ons (needed as part of the swap anyway). Even if we under rate that and say 180whp... that's still what a stock L28ET puts out, and that's a fun car still. By contrast, a LS3 or similar Gen4 6.2 LSx with JUST A CAM, is going to be potentially a 450+whp car. The stickiest tires that fit under a stock fender well are still going to be easy to overpower at will. So unless you do a bit of work with throttle tuning and/or enjoy babying the throttle, you're going to find yourself eating through tires, and depending on experience maybe investing in diapers. The latter is what leads many to the escalation path of upsizing tires and adding flares. Well now with a 315+ rear tire you're bound to start breaking driveline parts (like stub axles). So now you're looking at rear end swaps with beefier axle options. But of course it's going to understeer like a pig, so you also have to start working on the front. And will all this escalation you're going to add bigger brakes right? Before you know it, you've got a 2800+lb Z car, and yes, it's FAST. But is that what you were setting out to build? For me, that's not what I'm after. Before K swapping, my L28ET powered 280Z was at 2280lbs, and I hope to get as close to 2k as I can eventually. I want as raw and connected of a street driving experience as I can get. I don't want/need the ability to do burnouts in 3rd gear. I want the limit of my vehicle to remain attainable and the overall street driving manners to be fun, not terrifying. Once could always add a turbo to the K series though. No reason an unopened K24 don't do 450whp same as a NA LS...

Hey Folks, l did the headgasket job on my L28 successfully, but the EGR tube disintegrated, does anyone have one for sale or any ideas on what i can do?! ty!!

For the 2+2 model? MSA will take yours and rebuilt and send it back to you. I am considering this as I drive a 75 2+2 and mine is making noise and not working right.

2.0 is coming along.

oh no, just a pic, not ready for install.

Is that a finished photo or progress shot? It's a drain rather than a pressurized line, but AFAIK you need to get they hose pushed all the way onto those fittings.

I've been doing some research on the VQ37VHR, and my main goal is to make at least 425whp on natural aspiration. Meaning, about 450-475 to the crank given some mental estimates. In my case, the wheelbase is going to be shortened around 9.1in (100.4in --> 91.3in) to an exact. Added, a lighter flywheel, lighter driveshaft, etc. With all of this unadded load-travel, for a lack of better words, put me a little closer to that number? If needed more info on what exactly I'm adding to the drivetrain to achieve this, let me know and ill update with a more thorough list. With that, I don't expect to come near this number on decreasing the travel distance of power. The second question is, with this considered, would it be possible to comfortably make this power output, without tapping into the bottom end or increasing the displacement? The modifications I have planned for the top end includes, but isnt limited to, E85 tune, Billet Fuel Rails, Upgraded injectors, High-Pressure Fuel Pump, Performance Ignition Coils, Performance upper/lower Intake manifold, Cold Air Intakes, JWT V2 Cams, Valves, Ported & Resurfaced Cylinder heads, Dry Sump Crank Pulley, Dry Sump Oil Pan* (Kinda cheating with this one). I think this number is decently achievable, but the more research I do, leads me to finding less and less 400hp N/A VQ37s, at least those without tens of thousands of dollars invested. Don't get me wrong, the estimate is close, but not just for an engine. Apart from the questions above, I guess in general, is it even feasible? Does my theory hold any ground here? Will I need to start looking into the bottom end being build to make said power output? Any help/comments/opinions would be greatly appreciated!

My larger turbo drain hose is ready for install. We move forward:

01-11-2025 Dash panel project update: ALL DONE!

01-11-2025 Turbo Project Update: I managed to get the throttle cable attached to the gas pedal today. It took a bit of playing around. It was so hard getting up there under the dash, I ended up having to just mark where I wanted the throttle cable cut, and then taking everything out and assembling it off the car and then re-installing. To make sure I had the cable in the correct location, I used tie wraps to hold the carb all the way open and then held the gas pedal floored and then marked where to cut the cable. In installing the cable, I additionally put a layer to duct tape over it to keep the circular clip from falling off., and with the washer on the engine compartment side, I had to cut a channel so I could then slip it in place, turn it so the notch faced down and then tightened it up. Worked perfect. I then went to the other side of the engine compartment and finished getting my knock sensor mounted and with a bit of red loctite on the threads, once dried it will be permanent and should work well. I then pulled all wires back and tie wrapped them where needed so everything looks clean and tidy. I then straightened out the last of a small wiring bit in the secondary fuse panel, finished wiring back uo the UEGO A/F sensor wiring, and pulled the Ambient Air antenna out through the hole and the interior work is done. I then wired in the J&S Safeguard knock sensor. II decided to up-size the turbo oil drain, and my larger hose arrived, now to get the fittings and work on that next time. It doesn't seem like much, but I got a lot of the work required done today. It was 41 degrees in the garage, so good thing I bundled up. Getting much closer to project completion. Pics: