cholag

Ryaapp2, I have an n47 A cam coming, it was cheaper then sending my cam to delta. I did send my cam and rockers to delta when I was doing my build but it looks like it was money wasted, oh well. Overall this whole swap is costing me $200, that's including the timeserts, cam, lifters, and adjusters. My only other question is will I have to shim my cam towers?

Thanks BRAAP! Your response answered my question perfectly! I am installing mechanical adjusters as well, I was going to suggest the n42 cam but found out that it isn’t internally oiled and would have more rotational mass then the n47 which is internally oiled. I'll order everything from zbarn tomorrow and I should have it all installed by tuesday, then I'll make a youtube video after the megasquirt gets tuned. I've been working on this build for a while and I hope it will put some power down! Also I will be pushing 14lbs of boost on a rebuilt motor with ARP hardware and rebuilt head plus a lot more.

Hello, I want to start off saying that I have searched what I am about to ask and can’t really find the exact answer, but I have a 1983 280zxt with a P90A head. I have noticed a lot of valve train noise and took it to a shop, they said all my hydro lifters are collapsed. So I want to switch to solid lifters, I know I need a solid lifter cam, my question is what is a good stock solid lifter cam to use on a p90a head where I won’t notice a lot of power loss? I did read somewhere, I don’t know if it was this forum or somewhere else, that the n47 cam would work good, if I were to use that cam do I need to degree it or will it be within range of the stock settings or should I get the p90 solid lifter cam?

Sorry I thought the photo loaded in the first post.

Hello, I have a 1983 280zxt with an MS2 and a lot of engine work, this has been a three year project for me and I can now say that I am 99% done with this thing. But the main thing thats stopping me from tuning is that my battery wont charge now I have bought a new battery and I tested my alternator at autozone and it passed there test. So I started to read schematics and older posts here and on zcar and I found a little bit of help. I checked my fuseable links they all looked fine, then I hooked the battery up and checked the voltage at the post on the alternator with the white wire and that matched up with what I was getting on my battery. I am pretty sure my alternator is hooked up correctly (I will include a photo, please don't pay attention to the one wire that is burnt that belonged to the stock injector cooler). The only thing that I think could be the problem is my ignition relay, the way I have my ignition setup is that the key will turn on all my acc. and electronics but when kicked into the "start" position all my gauges die. So what I did was wire in a push button so I keep my key in the "on" position to keep my electronics running and then hit the button. I just want to add that the car starts and drives with no problem besides the tune and another thing I noticed is that when the car is running and the DMM is connected to the battery, it will slowly bring itself to 13.3v but never past that. So I guess it is slowly charging it but never getting into the voltage range where it should be.

You might just save yourself the head ache and get an MSD tach adapter, I got mine off of amazon for $45 I think.

First let me say thank you for your very helpful response. I guess I will just but an autometer pro comp gauge, they are running a special so when you buy one you get a $60 mail in rebate so it will only come out to $90. As far as the temp gauge goes, after reading your post I did some research and I don't think I ever had a sender hooked up because according to my FSM there should be a T fitting in the hose that runs under the CHTS. But I remember fiddling with some wires before I did my build and and the gauge worked, so I will just go buy a sender and fab up a T fitting, I have faith that it will work.

Hello, I have a 1983 280zxt with an MSII and relay board installed and I am trying to save some money so I have been reading the schematics in the FSM to try and get my stock RPM and water temp gauge to work but I have had no luck. What I have done is on circular connecter that connects to the instrument panel there is a Light green wire with a White stripe or in the schematics it is labeled as Lgw, now what I did was splice a wire into that line and then ran it to the negative terminal on the coil. When I did that my car wouldn't start, so I assumed by doing that I had cut off something to the coil and then when I removed that wire my car started fine. I also tried running that line to the green pick up wire of the dizzy and that didn't get the tach working either. As far as the water temp gauge goes there is a yellow wire coming from the same connector and I was going to run that to the water temp sender but I guess the wire hanging from the sender some how got damaged in my build. So before I call up the Z barn for a new one I wanted to ask you guys and gals if running that yellow wire to the sender would get my water temp gauge working again. Thanks for all your help

So I finally got the car back from the shop, he tuned it on his dyno and all that jazz but now when I am driving it I get these odd MAP signals. The only way I can explain it is when I am at a low throttle opening the car will buck and shake and then I let off the gas and slam it and it will clear up or even on a ramp up I will get these crazy map signals. Here is a datalog and msq that go along with it, you can see the crazy MAP signals that I am talking about at 348.100s if anyone has any idea as to what it could be your help is much appreciated. datalog and tune.zip

Well thats what I have, so I take it that is acceptable? Also I have provided a link to the type of FPR that I have.

I am greatly sorry for responding so late but here are some answers and a complete update on the car: Noodle, I still had the screw on the throttle body to hold the valve open slightly but where I was getting most of my air when idling was from the IAC I had set up. I bought the IAC box from DIY and a valve from rock auto, set the vacuum hoses up and that’s where my extra air came from. jacob08, I totally agree with you and I have capped it off. Also this is the FPR that I am running http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?prod=11 softopz, all my settings for the most part are correct, the sensors that I am using are a GM CLT and IAT bought from DIY. So here is the update, I got fed up with the car and found a guy not to far that has tuned megasquirts on spec Miata cars and he has won trophies as well so that was good enough credentials for me. Well I towed it there and he gets started first we found out that my wide band was wired wrong, I guess I had analog 1 (yellow wire) going to the relay board and analog 2 (brown wire) going to my gauge and I suppose I shouldn't have been doing that. What the proper setup was the brown wire was supposed to feed to my relay board and the gauge so after doing that we had a wideband signal coming in on mega tune. The whole thing was a little strange to me because I was getting a signal before with the way I had it wired up but it works now so whatever. Next, all of a sudden my electric started going screwy and my first thought was this guy messed with something but I did my checks I tested the MS unit and it tested fine then I re flashed firmware on it and re loaded my settings. So I started looking at the relay board or the wire connecting the two, but saw no problems. Then I did some research on mega manual and found if you are getting messed up signal readings from your sensors add an extra ground from pin 19 on the terminal strip to the MS grounding location, I did that and everything cleared up, now back to the idling issue. I am sitting in this guys office and all of a sudden I here my car idling . So I go out there and he told me he changed one setting under my injection control and he changed the injection staging from alternating to simultaneous and the whole car just idled. I was kind of upset that I didn’t notice that but at least I had everything else on the car right. Then he started to slowly bring the rpms up and started to lean out the fuel table and I was getting a good 13 to 1 AFR so I was very happy at this moment and decided to flush all the old gassed up oil out of my motor. Then after the oil change he started to bring the rpms up again slowly but this time it was popping very loudly, it wasn’t a back fire, miss fire, or issue with the timing (I forgot to mention that we also got that dialed in and it was like 2 degrees off from where it should have been). Now mind you I only have a down pipe (about 10in) for an exhaust so his predictions as to what it could be is 1. There is too much ignition advance, 2. Not enough exhaust pipes so we are hearing the motor right away, or 3. They are lean pops because I have no accel enrichment. So I told him to put an exhaust on, I needed one anyways and that should be done tomorrow, then he will get back to tuning it and possibly putting it on the dyno. The only reason why I have not taken the car back is because I am taking a butt ton of credits this semester and don’t need my mom yelling at me saying I am taking up the garage. Also the exhaust is a full 3in, it’s all vibrant stuff with a 12in bullet muffler in the middle and I have the waste gate dumping into it as well.

I finally had time to mess with the car now that I am done with my summer classes, with the older tune above I guess my TPS, CLT, and IAT where not being recognized by megasquirt, so I re-flashed the firmware and that solved the issue. Since then I have been trying to make my own tune with the aid of other peoples MSQ's that they have posted, so where I am now is the car will start cold or hot with me playing with the throttle only a little bit. What happens is once the car starts it revs to 2000 to 2500 RPMs and the throttle is open about 11% and then it will drop down to 900ish when I begin to SLOWLY close the throttle to about 1 or 2%, then it stays there for about 3 seconds and dies. I have included my latest MSQ and datalog, I hope you guys and gals can help me out because this weekend is the woodward cruise and I would love to take this car out on the road. Thank you for all your help. Latest MSQ and datalog .zip

So I lowered my cranking pulse width and disabled the AMC, now the car loves to start even more cold and I had started it and shut it off multiple times and it started with ease each time. I have two data logs that I am going to post one while the car was cold when started and the other with the car warm. When it was cold and started the rpms were around 1600 and when it warmed up it idled down to about 1000. But what I noticed that was weird is in the data logs it doesnt show my CLT temps and I have calibrated the sensors, so I am going to try and figure that out. cold and warm start datalogs.zip

I am running MS-II board version 3, running on version 2.890 firmware.

So I have messed with my tune a lot and I have gotten it to run not as rich, I honestly don't know how rich it was running before. But I have it so my AFR gauge in my dash is reading 10 to 10.5 which is still rich, I want to get it to 12.5ish range. Pretty much what happens is that I go to start the car and it turns over and starts great. Then I shut it off and I try to start it again and it wont start because I have flooded the motor, I will take the plugs out and they will all be drenched in gas. But I am still stressing out because I have new piston rings and a new cam, so I still have not been able to get the motor running properly enough to break in the cam or at least have the motor run at a high rpm for a fixed amount of time. I would really appreciate you guys taking your time and looking at my MSQ and giving me some advice as to what I can do to lean out the fuel. my best tune, I think.zip