WV75Z

My zxt's clutch is slipping and I need a new one. Found some long technical discussion on zcar but need a quick answer so I can order ASAP and get this thing fixed. I am running 10psi boost and may upgrade further so I want it to be able to hold about 250hp/300lb ft. I noticed some cheap OEM ones on autoparts warehouse for like $120 but I'm guessing they won't do?

Why the lack of love for the 280zx's especially the turbo? Why are they always donor cars and less often restored? I have owned a nice 75 with all the same suspension upgrades as my 83zxt and don't notice much difference in handling. The t-tops are a nice bonus too and I have seen some breathtaking s130's as well as s30's. I could see the s30 having an advantage at the track given the some mods but most of us just want a nice old sports car to enjoy. For the life of me I DON"T GET IT!

Yesterday I changed the ball joint and the tie rod end on the right side. It made no difference whatsoever even though I thought I was feeling some play at the ball joint when shaking the wheel. There appears to be some play in the rack but only on the right side. I'm now thinking maybe wheel bearings and tightening up the rack adjuster screw some. Today I took the car to a guy I know who owns an impeccable 91 300zxt and has worked on some 280zx's and is really into performance tuning and knows what he's doing. I'm going to let him drive the car and shake down the right side and tell me what he thinks. Here in Charleston WV we are severly limited on knowledgable people when it comes to cars with any suspension upgrades. You basically get some rednecks who are used to working on stock vehicles only. I don't even want to take it back to where I had it before.

Thanks or the replies. The alignment spec as of now is: RF LF RR LR Camber -1.3 -1.8 -2.1 -2.6 Toe .05 in .05in .15in .15in The camber is the best they could get it with the kit I have. The rear toe was way out so that was correted and the camber was worse.

Hello, I have an 83zxt with a front end wander. It just doesn't like to track straight down the road and I am constantly correcting. I have Tokico springs and shocks and MSA swaybars with a cam type rear camber kit. I just had the car aligned and though it was way out of spec, it still wanders as much or more. I also have new steering rack and have no play in the tie rod ends. Today I jacked the car up and shook the wheels. The right front wheel has play when shaking diagonally from 10 to 4 oclock, but I can't shake it from top to bottom. I can also shake it from 3 to 9 oclock but it doesn't seem to be coming from the rack at least not the majority of it. Before I replaced the rack I could get lots of play laterally but that is mostly gone now. I'm thinking maybe ball joints but not sure. What else might be causing this wander? :redface:BTW my tires are pretty worn on the insides from negative camber. :(Help please

just checked ebay and there is another 82 turbo automatic with only 104 k on it in NC for 2k buy it now!

There is a super sweet 82 turbo automatic in the classifieds for $3500. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147281 Fresno Ca may not be practical though. Or this turbo automatic in Arizona http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/8/2037557 Even if these are to far away you can get an idea of what you can find.

I have had a 75 and a couple 83's. I like the zx really well, you could argue for either one as a street driven car. Now for racing and such I can't really comment but it seems as though people prefer the z series. I guess most people on here are more into performance but I really like t-tops..lol. I hope you check on this for updates before you go buy that car, you're getting a lot of friendly advice that will make you happier in the long run. Besides, with a decent budget like yours, shopping is half the fun!

NO WAY! For 3k keep looking. I picked up a sweet 83 turbo with all kinds of suspension upgrades for 2k, needed about 1k worth of mechanicals, wear items etc. right away, now for 3k I have a FAR better ride than that one. At the very least for that much you would probably want t-tops and an 81-83 with the higher compression motor. There was recently a really nice clean looking maroon turbo for sale on here for $3500. I wouldn't pay more than $1500 for that one, if I even wanted it in the first place. I'm not trying to be rude, but you need to watch the market more, you can do better with that much money! Just curious, where are you located? That has a bearing on what you can find, but you have to be willing to travel a bit to get what you want.

I have never had the stock seats in my 83. It came with a power driver's seat from an 85 300zx. I like the seat ok but due to clearance problems with the motor it is a good 1.5 inches higher in the front. I am 6'2" and would like to sit as low as possible. So I then mounted a cheep NISMO knockoff seat on the 280zx rails. It isn't much lower if at all. What setups are some of you taller guys using?

I am starting to track down an idling problem in my 83 turbo 5spd. It will idle normal and steady holding 18.5 on the vacuum gauge at about 7-800 rpm on the not so easy to read digi tach. After 5-10 seconds it will start to bog and the rpms will go down by one bar on the tach so maybe 600 rpm? When it bogs it continues to idle weakly and the vacuum goes down to a less steady 15 -16. After 5-10 seconds it will return to normal and cycle repeats itself. I have searched but haven't found any posts that exactly relate to my problem as it also manifests itself as a subtle miss when cruising or accelerating at any rpm range. It is like a steady pulsing subtle miss. I pulled the oil filler cap and the engine sputtered and died which indicates no vacuum leaks? It does however have a major #6 manifold leak. The car also sputters and protests a bit when starting out easy in first gear especially when cold. If you punch it it straightens up and runs pretty good. I have never had a turbo before but knowing the stock 0-60 is 7.1 or so I'd say its running pretty strong and close to that mark. 1)I pulled each plug wire and restarted the engine. Not really any difference. A bit ruffer since the missing wire but same pattern of good then bogging down each time. 2)There is an MSA rising rate fuel pressure regulator hooked up by the po that I know nothing about. I don't think its necessary to run up to 10psi so I'm thinking about removing it. I wonder if that could cause a problem? 3) I have yet to check the TPS or AFM nor do I even know how. 4) I am just trying digest all this new info and figure out a good starting point to try and track this down. I am just familiarizing myself with the car and all of the sensors. 5) I'm pretty sured these are the original injectors with 165k on them. How do I test the injectors to see if they are working properly? I started to pull the injector plugs one at a time but the conectors are so old and brittle the first one cracked on the tab. They all look they could just disintegrate. 6) can the fuel pressure be tested with the car at idle? Wouldn't the fuel pressure change under load? How do I know what the initial setting should be vs the pressure when driving hard? How does the aftermarket rrfpr interact with the stock one? Thanks Jon Thanks

I have a slight wander in the front end that seems to be coming from the left side. When I turn to the right the car seems to weave a little and not track as well as when turning to the left. I shook down the left front side and immediatly noticed significant play when shaking the road wheel at at 3 and 9 oclock. The play isn't in the outer tie rod but it seems to be coming from the inner or the rack. I haven't yet raised the right side but will in a couple of hours when I get home. 1) I will be surprised if the right side has as much play as the left if any. If it doesn't is it safe to assume the left inner tie is bad or could it still be the rack? 2) If the rack is loose is there any adjustability on an 83?

Hello to everyone on the forum! A couple of weeks ago I bought bakerzxt's 280zxt. It's a nice ride and my first s130 though I've owned a few z31's and an s30. It is also my first turbo car which I'm pretty stoked about. My plans include (and I'm not asking questions before I search because I know this has been covered a million times over) a few repairs and then running 10lbs of boost and getting the car in good tune (which it seems to be already) and familiarizing myself with the car and the turbo system and how to tune it as well as verifying what needs attention and what doesn't. It already has the suspension goods and handles well enough for my intended use which is weekend and evening fun in the summer. For the past couple of weekends I have been going through the car and fixing little things that I knew the car needed when I bought it. I am down to only a couple of semi-major items (for me at least) that I am a little anxious about since I've never done them before. This weekend I'll attempt to swap in a lower mileage diff to replace the LOUD whining one that's in there now. I know these diffs can whine some but the PO and I both agreed this one needs replaced or fixed. So of course I'll review the procedure in the FSM first but does anyone here have any words of advice before I this? Things to check for while the new diff is out, mounts to replace, obstructions in getting the diff out of the car. Is this PTA or straight forward and easy? Next I have to do the exhaust/intake manifold and I'm really not looking forward to it. After that it will hopefully be time to tune and the car should be pretty well lined out and just need some minor maintainence items. So if anyone is still reading, thanks and I'll probably be asking more questions sooner than later.