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Everything posted by nolant178

  1. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    As of about 15 minutes ago, I've ordered all of the parts I need including an r200 to install into my car! They should all arrive sometime during next week. This weekend I'm going to drop my diff out of my car and take it apart to see how much damage I've done. I'll be attempting to sell anything that is usable. After I take my diff out, I'm also going to replace the u-joints on my drive shaft, and inspect my Trans and Torque Converter for potential issues, since I'll have relatively easy access to them! I'll try to take pictures as I go.
  2. Hello all! I just purchased a '74 260z with what I believe to be a GM 350 powering it. I say I believe it to be that motor because the previous owner had said separately that it was a 327, then a 350. Upon inspecting the motor, I found the cast code: GM 3970010. My research tells me that its either from a '69 z28 Camaro, or any Chevy V8 from the 70's, most likely a truck motor. I'll be doing more research, but if anyone happens to know more, let me know! I picked her up from a gentleman in Iowa for $8k. The body has a little bit of rust here an there, but nothing terrifying that I've found yet. The motor runs like a monster, which is great! The gauges are mostly not working, which is my 2nd project, after I replace the brakes. The car currently has a "pantera" style hatch, and came with the OEM hatch as well. I will probably swap to the OEM, however the pantera is growing on me.... I plan on adding an air dam, fender flares (I know, you either love them or hate them...), and a ducktail spoiler. I haven't decided if I'm doing coils yet, however it's very likely. For wheels, i'm leaning heavy towards Watanabe replicas, but that's a way's off still. To Do List Brakes - Completely Replace front: Waiting on Parts Gauges - Almost all are wrong/not working Paint Correction - rust removal and paint run repair Suspension Bushings - Probably PU, except for TC rods Interior - Dashboard replacement & cable management (likely at same time as gauge repair) Tires - Existing tires are very old, tread is great but there are some cracks forming, replacing with mediocre tires since they will be replaced w/ new wheels Suspension - Probably Coils, will need to do research Body Accents/Aero: Air Dam, Fender Flares, and Ducktail. All painted black. Wheels: Probably Rota RKR or other Watanabe reps, not until flares/suspension are sorted out, need wider tires to match. Color: The paint job the previous owner gave it is of decent quality, however I'm not a fan of the pull-me-over red. Will switch to color code 302: Leave Green Metallic. Engine: Bigger/better carb, long pipes, and replace wimpy exhaust.
  3. Hey - Interested in the Mustache Bar - Will PM you.
  4. 280Z Half Shafts

    Hey there, Interested in #1 and #2, PMing you!
  5. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    I hadn't even noticed that... wow! Good eye! And I see what you're saying. I won't be able to test any further until the new diff is in, but this'll be a good time to inspect the trans and flex plate as well.
  6. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    Alrighty, making progress! I cracked the diff open, and found some broken teeth! I may be the most excited person to ever find a busted diff on their car... but I think my issue is finally found. I'm currently trying to find everything to do the r200 swap, Ideally I'd go straight for an LSD, but may get an open diff to start out and swap to LSD later on for budget reasons. You can see bits of broken teeth sitting in the bottom of the housing! And look at how dirty that fluid is. New diff time!
  7. 76 280z parts - hatch, trans, heater core, etc

    Do you have a 280z mustache bar by any chance?
  8. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    My plan keeps shifting, as they do. Tonight I'm gonna open up my diff and see what's going on in there. If its bad, I'm gonna start sourcing parts to do an r200. I realized that STI's can run the r180 because only 60-70% of the power is going to the rear at any given time... I'll be sourcing parts now!
  9. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    I wanted to make sure I understand: You're suspecting that an issue in my TC or my AT is transmitting excess motion to my diff, where the noise is manifesting? I'm asking questions because I'm getting a lot of info from a very helpful community and I want to make sure I'm understanding everything, not because I'm doubting anyone (in fact I'm extremely grateful to have people so willing to help diagnose!) So it was my understanding that the u joints exist so that the diff and trans can move independently of one another without causing issues - could this be a drive shaft u joint gone bad after-all? And also, if there was an issue with the TC, wouldn't there be something noticeable while in neutral? Currently I can put the car in N and rev it to my heart's desire. My final question is in regards to the diff being small. I've read that its small for the 350, i've also read that auto trans are easier on diffs, also the r180 LSD seems to hold up fine in the STI, which seems to have comparable torque to many SBC 350's.
  10. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    The sound is distinctly coming from the rear, not the Torque Converter or trans. The video I posted is close, but the location is wrong. I think what's going on is I've broken a tooth (at least) on my ring or pinion gear in my diff. I'm gonna crack it open over the weekend and see what I can find out. If that's the case, I'm going to look at doing the R180 lsd swap from an STI. I'll post pictures of the diff when I crack it open to show you what I find!
  11. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    This makes an unfortunate amount of sense. I did notice that after having the rear of the car lifted for a week and a half I found a puddle of ATF under the car. Looks like I'll be checking this out! Thanks again, you're extremely helpful!
  12. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    I've been slowly replacing the U Joints in my car to remove this rhythmic clunking noise. I started with the half-shafts thinking they were the most likely culprit. I finished those last night and took it for a test drive fully expecting to hear the noise still... and I did. At the recommendation of @NewZed I took it to an open parking lot and did some testing. First I held the brakes and gave it some gas (not enough to burn rubber), and found that I could hear the noise even when the car isn't moving. Next I drove in tight circles in both directions at the same speed - the noise was consistent in both directions. I think this means its something to do w/ my Drive Shaft - so I'm gonna try replacing those U Joints next to see! The lack of difference in tempo/volume when going in different directions tells me its probably not the diff, which is encouraging! If anyone reads this and has any other ideas as to what it could be let me know! To diagnose this noise I've: Checked under the car for any loose bits/exhaust hangers etc Replaced worn mustache bar bushings Replaced half-shaft U joints Hoping its the drive shaft U joints that resolve it at this point, otherwise I'm worried I've exhausted my current troubleshooting ideas. Thanks for reading!
  13. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    Yeah, I definitely need to replace bushings all over the place. I bought a polyurethane master set, and have already replaced the mustache bar bushings (I thought that might be the source of my sound...) I'll get some pictures of the rear set up. I currently have the half-shafts out for u-joint replacement, so I have lots of room for pictures Thanks for all the good info. I'll have to start sourcing these parts!
  14. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    That's a very nice way to diagnose that, thank you! I'll have the u-joints on the half-shafts replaced by wednesday, hopefully. If the noise still happens at that point, I'll have to use that to determine the cause. If its the differential itself, I'll 100% be upgrading the R200. From my understanding i'll need the diff itself, a mustache bar from a 280z or zx that had an r200, the rear diff cover from a 280z or zx, and the stub axles, which would then attach to my existing half shafts. does that sound correct?
  15. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    Hi NewZed! It actually already has a V8! I was thinking with the Auto trans the r180 might hold up ok. I've been looking into the R200. I got the broken side plate for about $35, shipped, so fairly cost effective to replace! I want to do the R200 swap, i'm a total rookie when it comes to working on cars so as easy as it may seem to others, it has me intimidated a bit!
  16. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    I've been slowly replacing the U joints in my car. Some of them were quite tricky to press out... especially the ones on the wheel side housing of the half-shafts. The flange is not flat, so it's difficult to press them without the whole unit popping out of the press, quite dangerously. Oh well... nothing a little grinder cant fix! That'll get that pesky old u-joint out! I'm not mostly waiting for the carrier to come in, and I'll just zip her back up! Hoping to be on the road soon!
  17. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    I've started the process of replacing the U Joints in my car. I currently have the driver's side half shaft out and have the u joints removed from the shaft.\ The issue became more apparent when my buddy Tim came over. We cautiously put the rear on jack stands and nervously turned it on and gave it some gas. There was a definite vibration coming from the rear, probably one of the half shafts. Unfortunately I wasn't quite sure on how to remove the half shaft and wound up breaking my driver's side differential side retainer. I was lucky enough to find a replacement which is currently on it's way, thanks to @z240! I'm gonna be working with my buddy Anthony to replace the u joints in the half shafts. Once the retainer arrives, I'll get it all reassembled and hopefully my noise will be fixed! If the noise still persists... I'll do the u-joints on the drive shaft as well... beyond that I'm worried that its my diff.
  18. Diff Component ID Help Needed

    ^ Jim here was able to help me out, thanks all!
  19. Diff Component ID Help Needed

    Hey All! I've had a strange clunking noise coming from the rear of my 74 260z, so I thought I'd replace the U Joints. I found a thread on zdriver with instructions on how to remove the half-shafts. I opted to remove the 5 bolts that hold the axel to the differential and use some leverage to pry it all out as my first attempt and it went poorly. I wound up breaking the flange that the 5 bolts screw into in labeled "unscrew these bolts?" in the photo below. My question is: What is the name of that plate/bracket/flange so I can replace it? I have done some research but can't quite figure it out... I thought it might be the "Differential Pinion Flange" from RockAuto but I wasn't sure... any ideas on what this part is and how to source it? I'll try to grab some photos of the damage as well. I was eventually able to remove the half-shaft by removing the bolt in the middle near the u-joint, by the way. Definitely how I'm doing the other side! Thanks guys!
  20. Diff Component ID Help Needed

    Thank you! I'll post over there and hopefully be able to get one!
  21. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    Yeah, the noise is rhythmic, only when I'm NOT (coasting or braking only) on the throttle, at speeds above 25MPH. The speed of the noise as well as the volume of the noise increase and decrease relative to speed. I did toy around with the u-joints previously. There is some minor play in the driveshaft joint at the diff, as well as the driver's side halfshaft on both sides. The play is very small, so small that you can only really feel it, not so much see it. I think my next step is to replace all my u-joints and see if that helps. Thanks for the ideas! I was pretty disappointed after replacing those bushings last night, only to have the noise still occur
  22. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    Gahhh! So I replaced the mustache bar bushings, but my noise is still present. I neglected to service the control arm bushing that was mentioned by jhm and am regretting it... I'll probably have to pull things apart again to get there. So my problem still exists, but its not like those bushings didn't need to be replaced, so it wasn't a total waste of time/effort. I'm going to try to record a video with the noise tonight to post and see if someone is able to help diagnose. At this point it could be the control arm bushings as previously mentioned, or maybe a u-joint.... or could be my diff is bad... idk.
  23. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    Hey there! That's exciting to hear about the block and the hatch. The hatch has been growing on me, but I haven't put the stock hatch on it yet to compare! I had actually heard that about the TC rods, and was going to get the OEM rubber bushings for that! Scary stuff... And it totally looks like all the wiring in the car will have to be addressed at some point. Its functional for now, but not elegant by any stretch of the imagination. I'm not great w/ electrical stuff, so I'll likely be enlisting the help of others with that! I look forward to continuing this build! Thanks again for the info!
  24. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    So over the past few days I've taken the mustache bar out. I've decided that while I have any parts out of the car, I'm gonna clean them up, hit them with a wire brush, and get some fresh paint on them. I'm hoping this will clean up the look of the car as I go! The uninstall wasn't bad, the only problem (aside from 44 yr old seized hardware) was that the previous owner routed the exhaust directly over some bolts I needed to remove. As a result I had to detach part of the exhaust, just enough to move it to the side to make room for my impact wrench. In detaching the exhaust, I snapped the end of an exhaust hanger, so that will have to be replaced before I cinch it all back up. The underside of this car is so dirty... it's just caked in dried mud! The paint is already in pretty poor shape... I'm wondering if I might just run it through an automatic wash with an undercarriage cleaner just to get it a bit nicer under there... My PU bushing set should come in today! The reinstall should be much easier, as I wont be fighting 44 years of rust and Iowa mud. After I get these bushings in, the next step will be to use the rest of the set!