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damesta

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damesta last won the day on June 8

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About damesta

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  1. That's what I originally thought but then found several websites (not z websites) that said a few mm of play in the wheel is expected, especially with tapered roller bearings on the front wheels of rwd cars. No grinding anywhere. FSM doesn't seem to have an methods of checking bearings with everything still assembled on the car unless I'm just missing them.
  2. Quick question, this is for a 72. I have no clue when or if these bearings have been changed. Car tracks slightly to the right when I release the wheel and I'm planning on taking it in for an alignment but want to make sure I do any repairs needed first. Checking free play all 4 of my wheels it seems like they all will rock a tiny, tiny bit, like maybe 2 millimeters from the top to bottom of the tire if I rock it at 12 and 6. No free play any other way, up/down or in/out. No other reason to think the bearings are bad, just checking over everything. Is this normal for a 240z or does a tiny bit of rocking mean this needs to be looked into further and all of these wheel bearings and potentially front ball joints need to be replaced?
  3. Let me re-phrase what I said about the cam as I shouldn't of said it was ground that way. This is not a reground cam, it is a stock L28 e30 cam that the machine shop lightly polished. What your seeing is not the metal to metal wear that it looks like, it is striations of assembly lube that can be wiped off...I thought the same thing first time I opened the vc. The only part of any lobe that shows any wear is the corner of the center lobe in the picture, and after watching it closely as it rotates that worn edge doesn't even contact the rocker lash pad, so I guess it was there prior to the rebuild. However, I believe I found the culprit, the rocker lash pad on that lobe is severely worn, very distinct line and dip in it. I'll ad some pictures. I swapped it out with the nicest used one I have and that got rid of about 80% of the sound I was hearing. I am hearing a little bit of tapping still but the concerning noise is completely gone, I believe the remaining noise is probably because the machine shop just polished my cam and rocker lash pads and then stuck them back on in no particular order. So now I know they are likely all mixed up and if one is this worn I'm sure quite a few others are pretty worn as well. Thinking I should probably just put all new rockers and guides on now since they are pretty cheap, any thoughts?
  4. I have a newly rebuilt L28/e88. N42 dish piston block with early e88 head and internally lubricated l28 cam and oversized stainless valves. Motor runs great but after putting about 50 miles on it and getting the valve lash dialed in perfect it has developed a new noise, it is similar to a valve tick but deeper. Originally I was thinking exhaust leak or some chain slap against the guide but couldn't find anything wrong. This morning I finally tracked down the noise after spending about an hour stethescoping the entire engine while running and unfortunately it is coming from the head, it is 100% either the 4th, 5th or 6th cam lobe or corresponding valve, most likely the 5th lobe which is the intake valve on the 3rd cylinder. The noise is noticeably louder after the engine is fully warmed up but it does not get louder with rpms, after 1200-1500rpm the engine is loud enough to drown the noise out but it is very, very noticeable at idle now and sounds like its getting progressively louder to me at this point. Lash has been adjusted with the engine fully warmed up to .10i and .12e and triple checked, it is perfect. The only thing visually different about the 5th cam lobe is a little uneven corner wear, but wtching during rotation this wear does not contact the rocker lash pad, so I guess it was there prior to the rebuild...the other 4th and 6th lobes look normal. Anyone have any opinions, advice or ideas?
  5. Thanks for the help, I did get it to fire with this rigged up setup and a extra transistor I had sitting here....however, I went ahead and ordered a 280zx distributor (guaranteed to have a good module), along with a new coil, resistor, plugs and wires. Ignition should be good to go now....on to the carbs. Thanks guys.
  6. Alright, after looking through some parts this is a 280z distributor and transistor box. I actually have extras of both from my 280 parts car. Now if the car ever ran like this or if it's even possible for it to run like this I don't know. I can't find much info on using 280z distributors..everything is about the 280zx distributor swap. So where to go from here...should I try to get it running with extra parts I have around or just pull everything out and go 280zx or pertronix.
  7. No wonder I couldn't make sense out of it or find any diagrams. This is the first 240z I've worked on. I looked at the distributor but assumed it was stock because I thought all 280zx distributors had the module mounted on them. Here's a pic of it if anyone can tell me if it's stock or not. I would like to just revamp/ugrade the entire ignition system with new parts...so what's the best cost effective method from a setup like this? I've read about problems with the reman 280zx distributors and modules...pertronix seemed like it would be easier and straight forward. Opinions?
  8. Hey guys, trying to get this barn find to fire, hasn't ran since 98 from what I was told but looks like someone messed with it and tried to start it more recently. Turns smooth and compression is around 130 all the way across, have fuel but no spark. So I'm trying to narrow down the problem and potentially upgrade to electronic ignition at the same time. First issue is I have is wiring in the distributor/coil/transistor are...this has obviously been messed with and I can't seem to find a diagram of which wires go where on the transistor, so I have no clue if the rigged up transistor/ballast wiring is even correct. On top of that I have 3 loose wires in the area, 2 black and a brown with no where to go, I have the fsm but hard to know whats what with loose wires floating around. I'm thinking about just going straight to a pertronix ignitor II/flamethrower II combo with new plugs, wires, cap, rotor etc but need to figure this wiring out first. Can anyone tell if running pertronix deletes the transistor/ballast or are they still used? I'm reading conflicting things about the install. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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