jmai86

Krylon oil-rubbed satin black. Has a bronze flake in it

Yea that would kind of defeat the purpose. But then again ground control setup wouldn't allow you to go as low I don't think. And you wouldn't have independant height/ preload adjustment. I can raise it up to near stock height or go down all the way and still have the same level of comfort and no danger of bottoming out. Personally I would've put in s13 JIC or F2 or something if I had the money.

Oh so you want to remove the lip paint, but keep the chrome looking good? In that case.. you could try using some aerosol paint stripper. Spray it onto a some towels lightly and gently dab away at the top coat. Then immediately remove the residue. Might take awhile but it might work. I'm not sure how chrome reacts to paint stripping chemicals.

Just put on some other doodads & painted some stuff All I need now is paint! I've been semi daily driving it and the ride is very nice, IMO. It can get a bit bumpy over uneven roads, but it's quite alright otherwise. Oh and I think the engine bay paint is awesome. Very picasso. Can't tell me otherwise lol.

Awesome line

Why do you want to remove the paint? To repaint the center a diff color? If so, you really don't need to strip the existing paint. Just sand it smooth and paint over. The original coat will act as primer I never understood why people go through the hassle of stripping original paint to repaint (especially if you're just rattle canning).

Ah that's good to know, thanks. Thinkin about it know, the guy wasn't very thorough at all. I really don't know much about engine internal work, so "to spec" sounded like a good thing to me at the time

I retorqued, no weepage so far! Thanks for the tips

Support this vendor! I purchased wheels twice from them, and received them 2 days later (I am in northern ca, they're located in southern ca). No I don't work there lol, I just love that I got my wheels so quick. And they actually pick up your calls lol.

Oh well I was just worried about the effect of re-torquing on a gasket that's not meant to be re-torqued, if it would ruin the gasket or anything, you know

Well my heater core was removed and bypassed by the previous owner, so I'm not concerned about blockage there. My only concern with retorqueing is causing more damage. I don't remember if the gasket was one of those "do not retorque" or "no retorque needed" types, and since it's such a small weep, if the bars leak can plug it up I'd rather do that than risk more damage by retorqueing. Unless retorqueing wouldn't hurt anything regardless of the gasket type... I really wouldn't mind torquing again if it's safe and correct to do so.

Ah jut noticed your location haha! I'll try some bars leak tomorrow and see if that helps the slight weeping.

Hm, would you happen to remember the brand/type?

I don't remember the brand, but I purchased from Winchester auto, who usually has quality stuff in stock (never had an issues with their parts or gaskets). My mechanic checked for flatness and it was to spec. The block and head were cleaned and scraped thoroughly of all materials using hand tools and scrapers, head was sanded lightly with higher grit sandpaper. No chemicals that I remember using during re assembl, just motor oil for the head bolt threads if I recall correctly.

I put in a new head gasket, torqued bolts in sequence properly, and after maybe 100-200 miles I'm noticing a VERY tiny leak where the head mates to the block. I can see a line of green along the seam. The car drives fine and I'm not noticing any internal burning coolant. Should I retorque? Or is the new gasket just bad.. again? Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm quite new to major engine work. It's a 71 btw.