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L28et z31 ECU swap in 280z - Ignition Relay short?


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I have already performed the block swap, set up the intake and all that, I'm just at the wiring phase now. I dropped in the Z31 ecu, changed the cas wheel, I'm using the z31 power transistor, but also have the GM HEI module I could swap in if needed. I'm realtively sure all of that is wired correctly, I've triple checked the wiring compared to others who have done it on these forums. Used to be I wasn't getting spark, but now the 12v switched line is shorted to ground and the ignition switch does absolutely nothing. Ignition switch was checked, it's functioning. I whipped out the multimeter and the short to ground went away after unplugging the igntion relay. Now I'm checking out the relay wiring to see where everything wires to, but according to the diagram mine is wired in wrong. 

The part number is B5230-W0500, which I did some research on and turns out to be the 76z Ignition Relay, is that correct? I ran 12v to the switching wires to test for connection, but when the switching wires are connected, the switched connection only makes my multimeter beep momentarily to state a connection was made only briefly. I'm suspecting dead ignition relays. They still click, but aren't they supposed to carry voltage over their switching terminals? As I head to the parts store to find some other relays to try out, I wanted to compare the wiring. 

According to the FSM and the color wiring diagram awolfe made at CZCC, this is what the ignition relay wires into

CQQemw5.png

Which, as you can see, if the wiring diagram is right, seems very counterintuitive. It would mean the fusebox has a constant 12v feed from the relay, so why would it even be controlled by a relay? Also, the ignition line seems to not be connected at all, so that makes me wonder why it goes there.

 

This is how the PO wired mine up

hos8yZw.png

Yet, it used to work. Now it doesn't.

And it makes me scratch my head as to why I'm not even getting the seatbelt warning lamps or the radio to come on when I stick the key in, because I'm getting 12v from the W/r constant line on the switch. By the way, my car is a 1978 Z, with what appears to be the 1978 FI setup, but I might be wrong.

Edited by noelawinslow
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