shadowbane

Thanks for the replies, it is for a 1975 280Z. I am sectioning the struts, but lost a pair of the nuts for the front struts. Will they still screw in when the strut is sectioned? If anyone knows someone with a parts car or a site that sells them I would really appreciate it. The struts I received did not come with strut caps. Thanks, Ramsey

Hello, I am looking to pick up a set of two, or more if that is what the seller requires, strut tube "caps." I don't know what they are really called or what the part number is, but they are the cog shaped pieces that screw into the top of the strut tower and hold the shock in place. Here is a picture to reference. They are the pieces on top.

I found these R32 rear calipers on eBay last night. They are supposed to work for a wide range of the 240sx. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160558375726#ht_500wt_1182 I asked the seller whether they had hangars or not, waiting on reply. If they do in fact work with the 280Z, would I just need a set of Z31 rotors? Thanks, Ramsey

So this LT1 build has completely gotten on my nerves. So much piecing together and part sourcing has had to be done that, I have gotten to the point of disliking any work done on this engine, and I'm sure some of you can commiserate. The car has sat, lacking an engine and transmission, both of which were removed with months ago, and could use some body work. I don't see much rust, but then again, the original paint has not been stripped. The body looks straight, but since the car is several colors (some panels were taken from a tan car, while the rest is silver) it doesn't have the look many desire. My eventual plan is to strip the whole body, and get it blasted, rust coated, primed and painted. the eventual look will be very similar to the Porsche 911 GT3 RS (including orange powder coated wheels and roll bar): My current debate is whether to stop on the engine for the time being, change things up a bit and focus on the body. The only thing holding me back from this is any fittment that may be necessary after paint has been laid down. After going over the JTR conversion manual and spending a fair amount of time on this website, I have gathered that there shouldn't be any pounding/cutting/welding/bolting/other actions that should screw up the paint on the engine bay, but that brings me to the subject of this long winded post. Would any of you advise against doing the body work first, and finishing the engine while it's in the shop, or should I get the motor finished, fitted, and running, then RIP everything out, strip the car and THEN do all the body work, followed by RE-installing everything. More info about the project outline: 1975 280Z, 1995 LT1 motor (pretty much stock, rebuilt, bored .030 over with Sanderson Block Hugger headers), 1995 T56, JTR conversion plates, 2.5" dual exhaust both exiting on the left, complete rewire. It's a pretty basic conversion, i just want it to be a head turner, so no corners will be cut. Thanks, Ramsey

Danno, I have the original, Borg Warner produced bellhousing. I just verified that my flywheel is correct for this application. I cannot say for sure whether the fork quoted by the dealer will work with the LT1, but even if it did, $104 is way too much to pay for a friggin' fork. So, if I am using the stock bellhousing (I feel so stupid for asking these questions, but I've been looking and looking on the internet, and no one addresses this issue), what exactly will I need? Has anyone purchased the fork assembly from a supplier other than a dealership? I may need to resort to wrecking yards. Am I wrong in assuming this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CNS%2DSC126869&N=700+4294908216+4294908022+115&autoview=sku would work in my application? Here is another option: http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/wizard.jsp?year=1995&make=CV&model=CAMA-Z28-002&category=All&part=Clutch%20Slave%20Cylinder&dp=true From what I have gathered, either will work. The release bearing can be this one: http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/wizard.jsp?year=1995&make=CV&model=CAMA-Z28-002&category=All&part=Release%20Bearing&dp=true And the pilot bearing can be this one: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/performance/brand.php?makeid=5&modelid=30&year=1995&partid=397 If the slave cylinders between the T5 and the T56 are interchangeable, are the forks too? It does not seem like it from your earlier post Danno, but i can't help but ask. Those ford forks are everywhere on ebay. So my last problem is getting the clutch fork, fork t-stud, inspection cover, and a clutch alignment tool. If there is something I am completely missing here... well metaphorically slap me. Those slave cylinders were not marked as being "pull type" but as far as I can tell they will fit. Once I get this squared away, it will facilitate mating the transmission with the engine prior to installation. Thanks, Ramsey

I already have the appropriate bell housing, which I should have mentioned in the original post. I've secured an appropriate flywheel as well. OK, so, parts that I would need are a pilot & release bearings, a T5 or T56 slave cylinder, slave cylinder extension piece, clutch fork, fork t-stud, inspection cover, and a clutch alignment tool. If that all looks good I will start'a purchasin'. I just want to get everything situated inside the bell housing/transmission before it goes in, and do the slave cylinder stuff later (like it should be done!).

I'm unsure whether I should just edit my old post or make a double... but new info has been gathered. After examining the tags on my transmission, and called a local GM dealer, it turns out the box is actually from a 1994-1997 (yipee!). I have a centerforce clutch kit, and still need to get a slave cylinder, and bearings, but am having a tough time finding a clutch fork/lever (actuated by the slave cylinder). The dealer pricing is $104 + shipping... http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/cart.cgi?db=mddata.txt&category=bellhousing&merchant=moderndriveline They have one to fit the 94-04 T56, and I will just disregard the Ford logo, but is a clutch lever cover required/recommended? It would bring the total price up to that of the dealer. Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate the info even after this topic has been covered (some searching after this thread's creation revealed individuals in the same pickle as I)

Thanks for the replies jbc3 and Danno, the differences between the M28 and M29 are really helpful, and I will check which version I have. Just to note, I will keep my LT1 motor bone stock (freshly rebuilt) as the car is being assembled more for fun around town and as a daily driver rather than a high hp beast. I suppose I will stick with my 1993 T56 either way, as long as it is compatible, and possibly change it out later if I can find a 1994-1997 for a reasonable price. Any other questions will hopefully be answered by searching, (I bet this one could have been with enough patience) but I'm sure I will need to make another topic eventually. Take care, Ramsey

This is my first post and topic here on HybridZ, and most of my time has been spent reading. I'm located in Lafayette, CA (East Bay, on the other side of the tunnel from Oakland) and I'm in the middle of a 1975 280Z conversion with a 1995 Lt1 and T-56. R200 in back. I have a 1993 T56, but have read in the JTR manual that 1994-1997 transmissions have more appropriate gear ratios (to be compatible with the rear diff). I have found a 1999 T56 on craigslist for the price I got mine for ($600) but am unsure whether this tranny meant for the LS1 will have a compatible bolt pattern to mate with the LT1. Since the transmissions are from different years and engines, will there be any computer related problems? There may be none, but I am still trying to wrap my mind around the electrical portion of this project (need to GET a wiring harness for the engine still, so points of reference are limited). Has anyone else used a 1993 T56 in their conversion? How'd it go? Thanks for all the help! Ramsey