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240zdreamin

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About 240zdreamin

  • Birthday 10/23/1981

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    Portland, OR

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  1. Good afternoon Hybridz Team. Does anyone know of a shop or guru that has experience tuning Megasquirt in Portland, OR? I’ve called some shops and they’re not interested in helping. Many thanks!
  2. Thanks for the response. I figured that it had to be MS2 related. Did you put it in a dyno or find someone to adjust while you drove?
  3. Good evening Team, I've got a problem that I'm yet to identify. Vehicle specifics include: L28et (P90 head) Megasquirt 2.0 Original distributor with DIY trigger wheel T5 transmission The engine performs well when stationary. Can rev it to 4000 rpm (probably would go more but don't want to push it just yet) without any problems however, when I drive it and get to approx. 2000 rpm, the car starts to studder, bunny hop whatever you call it. I typically just change gear or slow down. I've done some research and I thought that the fuel pressure may've been the problem so I went from 37 to 45lbs based on my injectors being 370cc (online calculator). That didn't work. I wonder if my injectors seals could be the problem? The injectors didn't seem to fit tight into the intake manifold. To check, I placed some pieces of paper adjacent the injectors to see if any air was blowing by but nothing. I believe its fuel related but am not sure. I'm a little puzzled and frustrated as I haven't driven my car over 2000 rpm yet. Any help is very much appreciated. Cheers, Aaron
  4. 260z, 7/74, engine bay, front driver side. Team, Can someone help identify the part depicted in the attached image? It is located in the engine bay, towards the front beneath the coil and adjacent the radiator. Just completed an L28et swap and in the process of cleaning up the wiring harness. I've traced the wires to the alternator and beyond into the cabin. There were also wires traced to the driver side of the old engine (solid green and green with yellow stripe). I've looked through the '74 260z wiring diagram and cannot find it. Your help is appreciated. Cheers, Aaron
  5. Hello everyone, I'm looking for a pair of quality armrests for my 7/74 260z. I have a set with plastic backing plates coming off and rubber severely warped to the point of no return. I'd prefer to also obtain the chrome collars if available but not a necessity. I've seen many pairs available on Ebay and none appear to have the quality i'm looking to find. Am prepared to pay for shipping to Portland, OR. Cheers, Aaron
  6. Hey guys, just received the DIY trigger wheel, bolted it in and presto, first turnover of the engine it starts. It runs pretty rough and after calibrating the CLT and TPS, rougher. Anyway, I've spent some time checking the following: Spark plugs - black and smell like unburned fuel Plug wires - resistance checks out Injectors - resistance checks out, haven't checked to see if there are any blockages Coil - resistance checks out I have the SCG-1 hooked up and wired in (done by Kurk) and the AFR sits around 10-11 which is quite rich. I'm using the MAP that came with the SCG-1 and it uses a dedicated vacuum connection to the plenum. I get very little movement in the MS Fuel Load gauge which makes me think I have a vacuum leak or is this unrelated? I tried to adjust the timing (rotate the distributor) but it did nothing then I read something about MS2 adjusts for timing based on the Cranking Advance. Mine is set to 10 deg. Kurk provided a base tune map and maybe it's time to make adjustments but before I do that, I'm hoping that the more experienced people out there may have some suggestions? Thank you! Aaron
  7. Thanks guys, the distributor has a matchbox plug in connector but this is after the round connector pigtail was removed. Kurk built the harness with a matchbox connector. I'm going to go with the DIY wheel and follow the instructions on the DIY website. I'll let you know how I go. It is strange that Kurk hasnt responded. Cheers, Aaron
  8. Unfortunately, I've had the computer and wiring built for almost two years now (I'm way ahead with all my purchases but my work kicks my ass). Anyway, I've contacted Kurk a couple of times and no response so I'm trying to do it myself based on deductive reasoning and a lot of research. So that's what has led me to this point. I'm not incapable, its just a time sink when you have limited amounts of it and I feel that I need to understand this better anyway. The distributor wiring is configured to plug into the square box connection. The coil is driven directly from the computer. I think i need to jump the wiring in the computer to match the 82-83 distributor and update the trigger wheel. Once that's done, I'll need to update the settings in the software. The difficult part will be tracing the wiring from the various locations under the hoodto the computer.
  9. Thanks guys, I'm not getting any signal whatsoever. I had the computer and wiring built for an L28ET but suspect it was built for a toothed wheel on the crank rather than the distributor version and the software was programmed and tested on another L28ET and confirmed to work. The "spark mode" is setup as "toothed wheel" which may confirm my suspicions. In your opinion, will I need to make some changes to the motherboard or is the software customizable? I see different setups on the DIY website for both the VR and Hall triggers for MS2. I think i may just purchase the DIY wheel to obtain the fidelity.
  10. Hello Hybridzers, I've finally got to the fun part and am so close to starting my car after almost five years of build from the ground up. Mind you, I have to do body work and paint once she starts. Anyway, I've got the computer wired into the car thanks to Fric Frac for providing his amazing wiring kit. I've got the laptop connected and I'm seeing gauges. TPS and temperature work but I got no rpm which has led me to no fuel and finally led me to the trigger wheel in the distributor (82-83).Research tells me that MS2 isn't powerful enough to read the 360 increments on the wheel but can read the 6 slots. Further research suggests that replacing the wheel with the DIY wheel (36 slots) is best for MS2? Can anyone confirm this? I'm happy to outlay the $30 but would like to have some feedback from those that are more experienced than me. Thanks everyone! Aaron
  11. Hi Hybridzers: I'm looking for a 2.5" - 3" exhaust system for my 260z with an L28ET swap with a 2.5" down pipe. I'm willing to purchased a used or newly fabricated system from someone willing and able. I'd prefer aluminized or stainless as opposed to mild steel. Thanks, Aaron
  12. Hi Team, I'm looking for the early 260z door cards. Your help is much appreciated. Thank you!
  13. Hellow fellow Z-ers, I'm looking to see if someone out there wants to off load the following items: CF rear bumper and brackets CF taillight surround with separate reverse light My vehicle is an early 260z with the recessed quarter panel. Thanks, Aaron
  14. Team: L28ET going into a 260z MS2 with custom wiring harness. I purchased a fuel rail with the pictured injectors o-ringed into it. I then purchased new injector holders, seals and injector holder plates. Went to install them into the manifold and they don't fit, as-in, they are loose. I can screw the injector, holder, seal and plate into the manifold and the injector slides straight out through the holder. Is there anyone out there that can identify the injectors? Do I need to change the holders? Thanks, Aaron
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