Mobious9

thats likely, im to the point where starting all over and taking it slow this time is my best option haha

I got this far today before i realized the chain had slack and may have jumped a tooth. Now im trying to pull the front cover with out having to pull the head again after its been torqued on.

... I put everything back on and torqued the head back on, everything lined up perfectly except i couldn't get the cam sprocket over the dowel. which leads me to believe i jumped a tooth, so ive been working on removing all the bolts on the cover. Can i take it off with the head on?? talk about leaning haha after this i'll probably be able to do this with my eyes closed haha

thanks lol i was hoping I'd be able to slap this thing together tomorrow and it run fine again. As you guys can see, Im doing everything i can to avoid taking more stuff off with my limited knowledge BUT it looks like there's no other way haha SO CLOSE!

Thanks JSM and Stretchnuts, that clears things up with the cam because at first I had the number one lobe pointing straight up and both valves were close. ( And i was assuming that was TDC) Your photo was helpful to because the FSM has no good illustrations. I also repositioned the distributor at TDC SO the stage is set but i had one last question before i go torquing everything back together. Why are the #2 small valve and #3 big valve open?? while everything is at TDC, or are they supposed to be open?

Thanks for all the help guys, this where i am now.. I have the block at TDC and the lower timing notch at zero With that out of the way, I got my head back and reinstalled the cam and sprocket. I need to know if this is correct or not, does everything look good? Are the #4 and #5 valves supposed to be the only ones open at TDC? I put the rocker arms back on first, then installed the cam and pedestals but have not torqued them yet. thanks everyone!

@ Macambra, can all this be done while the black is in the car? I've been following haynes and FSM's but their both really jumpy. So radiator, fan and crank pully comes out, then i should be able to take the front plate off.

NICE!! this is good news, so make sure BOTH #1 valves are closed on the head and the #1 cylinder is TDC.... seems simple enough haha

thanks, I have a feeling I'm heading in the same direction if im not careful but it might be unavoidable. I keep hearing the same words "you might as well replace ..." since im down there haha. more work

Hey everyone, I'm putting my engine back together and I want to make sure Im going to go about this the right way. Heres the story till this point.. I bought this blue 83 5spd with a blown head gasket, i managed to get it to run before taring it doing to cycle through and change the bad fluids. The jack-leg i bought it from had no thermostat or cylinder head temp sensor in it and drove it hot. The blue one has 258,000 miles on it. The primed auto 82 was my daily driver until i drove it into a ditch during a tornado we had in north carolina. It flooded out and now it not working. Just my luck haha. That car had 170,000 miles on it. This is where i am so far... I decided to rip anything that was good left in the grey car and put it in the blue one, which was nothing. Either way, a head needed to be decked and put on the blue car so i opted for the one with less miles (primed flooded car) and i sent the head off to get cleaned, decked, and valve stems replaced. Well the head it done, but this is where it gets kinda sticky.. The head on the primed car is going on the blue car,,, but when i to the original head off the blue car the block looked like this... Simply put, the block and new head do not match and neither are at top dead center. So what exactly do I do to get everything aligned and running good? short of taking off the front plate if i dont have to. Thanks! and Sorry for the length i wanted to put in as much detail as possible.

yea this one has been sitting. thanks guys I'll deffenitly try those things and see if i can get the breaks to work.

Setting the stage: Hey guys, I got my hands on a near mint 83 NA 5spd coupe that had been sitting for about 2 years. I was told the car had a blown head gasket, but i managed to get to car to start up and run fine. The problem: the break pedal wont budge an inch. I can press it as had as i can but it wont budge AT ALL. There is fluid in the revisor and i even tried when the car was running just in case but nothing. Question: Could it be the break booster it gone? im not sure the breaks could be locked up because i rolled it back to my apartment on campus. Anyone have any good ideas? Thanks alot!

will the driveshaft out of an 82 MANUAL coupe fit in an 82 AUTOMATIC coupe???? im in Raleigh, North Carolina and i ripped one of the joints out to the point where it damaged the yoke, and i cant seem to find any but 5spd shafts. HELP both cars are no-turbo

well the linkage did have some play in it. I have no clue how to fix it though short of replacing it.

Thanks JM, your right the ebreak might be getting stuck because the rear right caliper dosnt work. Jsm lol I tried that for a while but I deliver pizzas and it got annoying. I guess ill go for fixing the caliper.