Zkrazy

That's what I was thinking, but I haven't seen a 280 up close in years. I forgot the add the picture of the bottom earlier, maybe that will help.

It's sides don't fit my 240, so I think it may be a 260 or 280. Anyone know?

Jon, I want better brake performance along with a reduction in unsprung weight. The Wilwood caliper weighs 3 pounds less, the rotors have aluminum hats, and yet the whole package still weighs more than stock? I guess it's true what they say about making assumptions! (on my part at least) My goal is a great handling and braking street Z that will hold up to an occasional track day. I also live in a rural area with curvy back roads, so my "street" driving is NOT like what you see in the city. It's my second car, so when I drive it it's for fun, not commuting or putting around. With that in mind, I know the stock brakes can be set up with pads that won't fade, but how's the braking distance compared to the Wilwood set up?

As far as searching goes, I'm currently unemployed and have spent hours, Hours and HOURS of searching. It gets old, and I haven't found what I'm looking for. I have learned a lot in the process though. What's really frustrating is searching through the "Wheels show!" posts, all 51 pages, I see the wheels I want with no other info about wheel/tire size, brake upgrades etc. Plus I need to get to 40 posts so I can sell some spare parts and don't want to just fill the forums with nonsense. So, per Jons suggestion; Are there any aluminum calipers that fit the 15in XXR 513 wheels? I really hope AZC isn't my only option, but if so, do they fit any 15 in wheels? While I appreciate the Diamond Wheels suggestions I really don't like the style, they look like circle track wheels. Probably because they are. No offense to anyone running them! I really like the Watanabe/Panasport style but don't want to break the bank. I found the XXR's for $75 each, if they weigh slightly more it's worth the trade off in price. But not if they won't fit the brakes I want. I found a 240 for sale with the XXR wheels and emailed the owner about them. I know the 8in wide, 0 offset fit but I forgot to ask the guy if he had coilovers. I'm not sure how I would measure everything to see if it will work without having all the new parts in hand. I was hoping someone would chime in saying "I have those wheels and these aluminum calipers work, and didn't need coilovers." That way I can get the wheels and tires now (when I get a job that is) and get to the brakes and suspension after. I'd prefer to do it all at once, but money is always the biggest hurdle.

I have an early 240 that's basically stock with worn out struts and some random lower, stiff springs. I'm researching what I want in a complete package of wheels, tires, suspension, and steering. I want deep disc 15x8 in wheels for a period correct look and found the XXR 513 to fit my needs. What I want to know is if there are any aluminum caliper/hat options. I was reading a certain site that sells really a expensive Wilwood setup but the FAQ didn't provide any answers, was immature and insulting (one answer was simply "You're an idiot"). I want to reduce unsprung weight and am also looking into the aluminum hubs as well. Any other suspension/brake weight saving options are greatly appreciated. Also, will I need coil overs for inner clearance with the wheel width? I need wheels and tires now but will have to wait on the rest. I plan on doing the coil overs but don't want to find out the hard way that I need them to clear the wheels.

It's running, with no leaks! Exhaust that is, I have a small oil leak that I need to fix. And tune it, but I'm on the road again. It seems to have pretty low compression, and the compression calculator shows an L28 with dished pistons and a N47 should be 8.2, so that's not surprising. But for $200, with SU's and a 5 speed, I'm very happy. I probably would have tried to use the old junk round port header without your help, which would have cost me more time and money. I can't thank you enough.

Oh man that just made my day! I even have a new square port header gasket from MSA. But it does cover a little bit of the holes, outside of the liner. Should I trim it out? I can't thank you enough! I should be able to get my car running this weekend now. Thanks!

Anyone know if it's possible to use a sqaure port header on a round port head? Without is leaking that is........ My L24/E31 dropped a valve and took out the head, piston and cylinder so I picked up a L28/E47. I'm out of work, and money, and need to get my car running without spending. Also, is it possible to remove the exhaust liners without taking the head off the block? Thanks, Anthony

Thanks again. This afternoon I found a complete L24/E88 with round top carbs, starter, alt, auto trans, etc for $100 in San Jose, which less than 3 hours away. Don't think I can beat that even if I wait and wait for the right deal. Thanks though, it's good to know I have options. Anyone want an automatic....

Thanks guys. What are the specs and how much?

I need a running long block to get my 240Z, which is unfortunately my only car, back on the road asap. Somewhere between SF and LA too. I'm hoping someone here did a swap and has their old long block laying around.

What's the cam tower torque spec?

The gear was at #1 and a little to the left of the notch, now it's at #2 and a little to the right. Based on the manual it should be to the right, right? Do I adjust valves with or without the spring, and .007 or 8 for the intake?

I'll try to keep this short. I have an E31 head with 280 valves and an Electromotive cam. Got it used, tore it apart and everything checked out good. When it ran it made a little valve train noise though, especially without a load at about 2500rpm. It ran great though and the engine revved quick up to 7k. Then my head gasket blew. (Lesson: don't buy cheap head gaskets from World Pac, it didn't have all the coolant holes) I had the head shaved .010 and the block has also been shaved .004. I installed a .015 set of cam tower shims and equally bigger lash pads (manual labor) to restore cam timing. It's almost perfect, not all the way to the right but just a little overlap between the notch on the sprocket and the mark on the tower on the #2 hole. After installing the shims I got the cam to spin the same as before I removed the towers, but I didn't have a cam tower bolt torque spec. The bolts didn't feel very tight coming apart but one side is shared with the head bolt. Anyone know the torque spec? Now it doesn't rev past 6k, gets there a little slower, and the exhaust note sounds flat. I'm thinking removing the cam towers has something to do with it. The valves also have a little more noise now. I did a search here about valve adjustment and found pics of taking the measurement with the spring installed. Then I found a pic of someone measuring without the spring.......... I've always done it with the spring removed, and have always had a little noise. I also found a few people mention .007" for the intake, while my manual says .008", it's pic shows with the spring. I did the adjustment without the spring, then put it on and rechecked it and the feeler wouldn't fit anymore. So I'm thinking I'll just try it with the spring on and see what happens but I wanted to see how other people do it and what their results are.