garyhooper

cool that's what I was looking for. I couldn't find on the search. Thanks!

I'm giving up on my troublesome FI and going with SU carbs. I'm getting the carbs and intake, but what else will I need? I'm guessing on a new fuel pump, fuel filter and throttle cables. Anything else? Do they make a fuel pump pressure reducer? How much rewiring is involved? Thanks

Okay for everyone's reference incase you fall into the same situation that I'm in. Centerline will custom drill some of their wheels for datsun lug in the 10 in width. The deal that they have on this is 225/wheel and you are able to specify the offset on the wheel as well. So the cool thing is that you don't have to do any mods on it, it's in the 4x4.5 bolt pattern. I've looked long and hard and that seemed to be my only non wheel adapter option without serious modification.

Hey thanks speedracer. Yeah I got your drift the first time I just figured you meant the opposite. I just ordered the wheels from centerline. They cost me 1000 but the should fit pretty well. I got 15x8 fronts and 15x10 rears both with 3.5in backspacing. To tell you the truth I've spent a year trying to find the perfect wheel for the perfect price, but unfortunately 4x 4.5 lug pattern is a hard thing to come by with 10 in width. For anything for a reasonable price it seemed impossible. I thought about honda wheel adapters but I thought that the adapter would have to offset itself so much that I wouldn't be very stable. I really think that this was my best option for the price and still have a decent looking wheel.

So I'm wondering what you guys would consider the proper backspacing for my GTO replica. The distance in the rear from the hub to the side of the car is around 8" ( the fenders change width the heighth that you measure them at) and the front is about 6.5". I was thinking of running 8" rims in the front and 10" in the rear. The wheels I'm getting are the RWD kind, so they're deep dish 15"s. It seems that the tires on the rim generally increase the width about an inch. I don't want wheels and tires that sit in too far but I also really don't want them to stick out past the fender. So what do you guys think?

My grandpa has the welder you're talking about. I've tried it. I sputters alot and is hard to make a good solid weld. Also it has a tendency to want to jamb and not spit out the wire. But it worked for what I needed it for... I don't imagine it would be a good one to weld up serious structural body parts with but for dinking around with it seemed okay

het976, I have seen 4 to 5 lug wheel adapters before but they required the removal of the stub axle so that one of the lugs could be removed. And I thought that if I was going so far to remove the stub axle I should just get them redrilled for 5 lug right there instead of the adapter. But if you're is a simple bolt on then that's awesome and would definately be something I could use. lunar240z, I like those wheels but they are 5 lug and I would have to convert to 5 lug if I wanted to use them. But if 5 lug is my best option maybe I should consider doing that. Has anyone here done that? I know if I did my world would open up on availability for wheels. Just figured the conversion was long and hard...

I've run into the issue of buying wheels for my GTO project. I'm trying to stay away from the old school wire rim look and go for a more modern look. But due to the fender flare getting a wheel in the datsun bolt pattern that is wide enough is a problem. I've talked to John Washington about his honda wheels adapters but he was going to check on it and disappeared so I'm assuming he can't get those made anymore. Too bad b/c it was going to be a quick fix. I CANNOT find wheels that are a resonable price that are 10 in width for the rear. I've seen custom made wheels like 3 piece but the price is out of this world. I'd like to get something under $1000 B/C this project has already broke the bank I'd like to run 16, 17 or 18s on it b/c it'd make the car different looking to sweet anyways. So I'm calling all GTO, velorossa, YZ and all the other Z cars out there with serious flair in the rear to see what wheels everyone else is running!

I'm probably stupid but what's megasquirt?

I'm curious why you switched the distributors. Is the original distributor not compatable with the SUs setup? Or was your's just going bad? How much of a difference is the fuel mileage? I think the last time I drove it I was getting around 18 or so with FI

I have a 76 280z FI mostly stock motor ( only exhaust is different). I have had so many troubles with the FI that I'm done with it. So I'd like to convert to SUs or maybe 4bbl. I know that I'll need new fuel pump, intake and carbs but do I need a new distributor as well? Is which conversion is cheaper? The car I'm going to sell when I'm done (body work is done but the engine needs work obviously) b/c I just have too many projects. What is the cost for a 4 bbl intake from someone like arizona zcar? While we're on the topic does anyone have anything like what I'm taking about for sale? I'd prefer something that doesn't need rebuild. Thanks for the input guys!

The gas is pretty old and the plugs are fairly new. So I tried pulling the plug on the cold start valve while it was running, but it still shut off. Would old gas cause this problem? Or dirty plugs? The fuel filter is fairly new if I remember correctly and the fuel pressure coming out of it is right on the money.

I tried disconnecting the cold start valve, but that just made it crank and it wouldn't kick over. Yeah the car has been sitting for awhile, cleaning it up is a good idea.

Hi, So I have a 76 280z w/ stock l6 motor and stock fuel injection. The problem that I am having is that when I start the car it will run for maybe 5 seconds before it dies. After it dies it will smell like gas around it. I can usually get it started twice or so before I have to let it sit for a minute or it will crank and crank and not kick over. So I'm having a flooding problem I'm guessing. I've checked fuel pressure between filter and fuel rail. I get 36psi when it's still and for the few seconds that it runs it's at about 28-29psi. The pressure holds fine and is still 36psi after an hour. I bypassed the ignition, but that made no difference. And the fuel pressure regulator isn't leaking gas through the vacuum line. So I'm thinking that it's either a cold start valve that's flooding me out, or the afm isn't working correctly ( or I have a bad injector???). What do you guys think and how do I test these things before going to the parts store with a bunch of money on parts that I may not need? Thanks, Gary