burntz

Assemble your engine with plenty of assembley lube. This way you won't have to worry about the bearings when you start her up in a year.

Yea, I'd hate to use that crap on a new clean engine. You figure the rest of that stuff will settle somewhere. You could use it then after a couple of days flush your coolant to get the rest out.

I also used loctite (red).

What about using that "barsleak" stuff?

I want to place my MSD 6AL in the passenger compartment behind the passenger seat. Will this effect it's performance? I'm planning on using a larger guage wire than what's provided with the unit to connect to the coil and the dizzy. What do you guys think?

Mine did have the lock washer. I remember tightening the bolt but not torqueing it. She came off after 45 miles on a new engine.

Who'd a thought? The exact same thing happened to me on Sunday. Only I wasn't as lucky as you. I ended up bending 11 valves, don't know if there is anymore damage than that. I took my head to the machine shop yesterday.

The sensor is new. I'm probably going to take it somewhere and have the exhaust gas analyzed to see if my sensor set up is accurate. If it continues to run rich I guess I'll try looking for a "fatter" needle.

I'm running NGK BP6ES. Which would you recommend? And what exactly does running a hotter or colder plug do? And wouldn't the needle rising faster allow more fuel? I currently have ATF 20WT in there. Thanks

Do you mean adjust the mixture nut under the carbs? I did, I turned them all the way up. Then at idle it would be too lean and at about 2k it would be too rich.

Hello Guys, First let me break down my set up. 73 240z. F54 block, stock with the flat top pistons, N42 head with a mild port & polish. Rebuilt 70 SU carbs with the stock mechanical fuel pump. Mild cam, about a 270 duration. And headers with a 2 1/2" exhaust. I recently installed an O2 sensor on my exhaust. And it's reading rich. About 12:1. Where it should be at about 14.5:1. I turned my mixture screws from about 2 1/2 turns to 1 turn and it was still reading rich. So I'm thinking maybe my floats are out of whack. I adjust them. And I make sure my choke is properly adjusted. And the reading is still rich. No difference. I turned the mixture screws down to 2 turns and left them there. I don't want to mess things up anymore than they could be. The needles in the carbs are N-27's. What can I do to lean out the fuel mixture? Are the needles I'm using causing this rich mixture? Any ideas? Thanks

Bump. Anyone?

The bolts are 8 X 1.25. To find the best bit to drill before you tap, insert different size bits into the holes of the studs you did remove and find the largest one that will fit into the hole. Be carefull and make sure that you drill exactly in the center of the broken stud. If it starts to go off to one side there is a chance you will damage the treads on the head. Stop and use a smaller bit to prevent this.

Hi, I was reading through my "How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine" and on page 93 there is a Note: Do not install a crankshaft oil slinger. Does anyone know why you shouldn't put this back on the crank?

Thanks for the video. Awesome work! That exhaust sounds mean:twisted: !

Dragonfly, Thanks, this was the advice I was looking for. I've decided to do the felpro sandwich to lower the compression to about 9.5:1 the head has been shaved on the top and bottom so hopefully I won't have a cam chain issue. If I knew what the original thickness of the head was then I could measure and do some math to know for sure. I'll probably end up driving this car more than planned so I might be happier with the lower compression.

Looks like a Nismo header.

O.K. so let me see if I've got all this correctly. With 11:1 compression I will need to: 1. Run 95 octane or better 2. Use a 160 degree thermostat 3. Use a big cam (270-280 lift) 4. Run minimal timing advance 5. Upgrade to a MSD ignition or similar 6. Run the carbs on the rich side. 7. Stay away from city stop & go driving What if I ran a second head gasket? It would be two Felpro head gaskets with the head shim in the middle. That would increase my chamber volume by 7.37cc's reducing my compression ratio to 9.65:1. Do you think this would hold up? Or would there me too much friction between the block and the head causing the gaskets to fail? Thanks

If I remember correctly these are actually little holes drilled in the rod that start from the crank end and actually sprays oil on the thrust side of the bore and the underside of the piston.

Isk, if you don't mind me asking what engine set up do you have?What octane should I expect to use with this set up?

Hi guys. NewB here. I did some searching but couldn't find anything relevant. I hope someone can help me. I'm building a L28 with the flat top pistions, the pistons protrude above the block deck by .022. The head I'm using is a N42 that has been shaved a bit. Combustion chamber CC's average 38.6. Now if I use a Felpro gasket and a .020 head shim my compression comes to about 11:1. All the engine builders here in my area are V-8 guys and don't have a clue when I say Nissan. Am I asking for trouble with this compression ratio? The car won't be a daily driver, more of a taking her out on the weekend weather permitting or going to a car show. I do intend on using a MSD ignition and either a stage II or stage III cam. The engine will be carbed by SU's. Thanks in advance.