Jump to content
HybridZ

mpcapps

Members
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mpcapps

  • Birthday 11/23/1978

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    mpcapps

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Portsmouth, RI

mpcapps's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

10

Reputation

  1. Here's my AE settings. more similar than i expected. i have it set to use some Map AE but i'm pretty sure it never enriches based on map for real. i keep meaning to switch to 100% TPS.
  2. Just wanted to grab some info from the megasquirt site and post it here since it seems applicable: "If the car does not buck under acceleration, you are close to correct settings. If it bucks and stumbles, then it is going too lean and you need to richen that part of the table. Before tuning decel [or accel], make sure you have your VE table close to correct first!" "You will have to go back and forth between the various accel setting to hone in on the optimal settings for your engine and driving style. Note that you should not use the EGO O2 sensor feedback to tune accel enrichments, this will only confuse your tuning efforts. " I did a lot of my AE tuning with the car not moving, just sitting in the driveway stomping on the gas at various rates like they say in the manual. Then drive around with it and take data and record the stumbles. Ignore the EGO reading as it says in the megamanual, but use the data to figure out what AE bin was used for that event so you can adjust it. I'll post my settings when I get a chance just for comparison but they seem generally close to the last post by Dan_Austin. i haven't changed them in years and they were good for my 2.8 and 3.1L motors. No hesitation or anything.
  3. I have an Innovate LC-1 and it has multiple (2?) configurable outputs. You can have it send a narrowband signal to your ECU while sending a wide band signal to a gauge or another device. I believe it can datalog as well but i use megasquirt for that. It's a nice piece of equipment that gets underutilized in my current setup. That being said, if you're sticking with the factory setup, tuning is pretty limited. All you could really do is hook up a gauge to learn your AFR under boost and adjust your FPR accordingly but it might not be worth the 200 for the wideband just for that.
  4. That's awesome. I'll PM you my address so you can let me know how much shipping is.
  5. I'm looking for parts to repair my headlight portion of my combo switch. Inside the switch box section there are two plastic cups/nubs that pivot the metal switch elements. i need one of these plastic nubs. Obviously i could buy a whole switch, but why waste a good switch assy when i just want one nub out of it? Since i've seen people looking for working ones, chances are that bad ones are floating around. i need one of those bad ones with at least one good nub. I'll take a whole bad switch or just the nub itself. Any 240-280 switch should work. I've attached a pic of what i'm looking for in the end (spring not needed). The pic sucks but it's good enough if you've taken apart that part of the switch. Thanks in advance.
  6. Hey guys, thanks for the help. I ended up getting the one locally from woonsocket. It's funny; i searched so many junkyard sites in RI and didn't find any hits on that transmission. i suppose it's possible i missed those JYs. Cheers, capps
  7. I'm looking for a 5-speed from an 81-83 280zx. I'm in rhode island; local pickup would be nice but i'd probably rather just have it shipped to me. If you have one you're willing to part with please email me at mpcapps@gmail.com.
  8. To answer the other part of the original question, I wouldn't use the stock cold start system. MS has its own cold start method and i think it would be difficult to get the two to work together properly. You'd basically need the MS to know if the car's thermo-time switch was on or off. This will tell you if the cold start injector will fire during cranking and during these conditions you'd need to have MS supply less fuel to accommodate for that. i know it's possible, but i doubt it's worth the time.
  9. I'm running basically the same setup except no 60mm TB and I have flat top pistons. If you're not satisfied with any of the other maps out there, let me know and i'll give you mine.
  10. What are your cranking pulse widths, both at -40 and 170? those are the main parameters i tweaked to get the car to start. yours might be set Way too high. The priming pulse is not meant to deliver the fuel for starting, only to get the air out of the end of the injectors. I wouldn't set it at zero; in the manual a few parameters are said not to set to zero because they'll will yield unpredictable results. i'd set it to 2.0 like the manual suggests. as far as the lean backfire on cold accel, you may not have enough warmup enrichment set, or enough normal accel enrichment set. during cold accel, the fuel delivered depends on all these factors: req_fuel, ve table, warmup enrich, accel enrich, cold accel enrich, cold accel multiplier. the manual suggests tuning startup first, then the ve table and warmup, accel later.
  11. I've been running with my pots all the way counterclockwise as well, and it seems to work well enough. I had R56 one full turn clockwise and R52 out two full turns clockwise with no noticeable effect. I'll have to play with that more; maybe adjusting it will improve performance at higher RPMs. i want to put my oscope on my VR line while i'm driving to see if my tach drops correspond to noise on the VR line, but i can't power the scope in the car. i've run trigger offsets as low as 28 and as high as 92ish. i really wanted to get to 10 so i could try "trigger rise" for starting options but things got erratic below 28. i figured i'd be able to get to 10 since it is a locked stock dist and my stock dist is set at 12. could be the algorithm gets screwy at such low offsets. at 92 starting was very difficult (3,4,or 5 skipped pulses). 50-70 is happiest, 35-40 is ok. I've played a lot with A-B-G but last interval seems best. maybe i haven't played enough.
  12. I hate to see this thread die with only a handful of people saying they're running a locked VR distributor, and only one who might be done and hasn't had problems with their setup (X64v). there has to be more. things that should be in this thread but aren't: -R52, R56 adjustment -predictor algorithm settings that work (last interval, alpha beta gamma, 1st derivative, etc) also possibly: -Mask settings -Pulse tolerances -Advance offset settings I'm running a locked VR dist, using the VB921 to control the coil with basically stock wiring, but i'm having occasional spark dropout problems. Since the spark timing algorithms use the VR pulses to calculate dwell, ign event, etc, getting a VR distributor to work means more than just getting a good RPM signal i think. or maybe my spark output is hosed and i'm just blaming the input circuit.
  13. Have you tried adjusting your after-start enrichment? i'd also play with the trigger angle settings; if you're way off the timing might be close enough to kick it over once, but when it starts adding in timing after start, the timing is too far out to keep the engine going.
  14. I've been having good luck with the "VE Analyzer" in megalogviewer. I just drive around and log data (pretty much all the time); load it in the viewer, load my latest msq file in the viewer, and run the VE analyzer. it outputs a new table, i load it onto my MS. rinse, repeat. I've played with megatune's autotune and the automatic mixture control a LOT, but i found that autotune tended to make unstable jumps (or a series of jumps leading in the wrong direction) even when given very little authority, and automatic mixture control tended to not change the table fast enough (or rather, as fast as i expected it to). maybe i didn't spend enough time tweaking the settings of either of those two tools, but once i started to use the megalogviewer ve analyzer, it didn't seem necessary.
  15. I'm actually using the 78's stock fuel pump management (fuel pump control relay and fuel pump relay) and it works fine. since it doesn't rely on the AFM for cutoff purposes (it uses oil pressure and alternator voltage) it's compatible with an MS installation. I simply don't use the FPUMP pin on MS, and have left the rest of the fuel pump system electronics in the car intact.
×
×
  • Create New...