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jonnymrp

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Posts posted by jonnymrp

    95 Q 45

    in Other Engines

    Posted

    im in the middle of the vh swap as well. i put 240sx rear irs in i would choose it over the q45 rear end becasue its a couple inches narower. but the 240 sx width is still a couple inches wider than stock Z. i think the only way to get the front of the q45 in to a z would be to widen the frame rails by about 6 inches(thats jsut a guess ive neverbothered to mesure) and to make the upper control arms of the Q45 work properly you would have to add some frame rails and to do that you would then have to widen the strut towers. its almost seams like it would be easyer to cut the whole front of the Q off and weld it on the fire wall of the z and then tapcon the fenders back on. it seams like alot of weight. if you were to put the Q suspension the one thing to consider is roll centers and to match them properly sub frame to subframe. its one thing getting them in there. but another getting them to work right. my personal opinion is keep front end of the Z car -Z car to do the mods evin if you did them very right you would still end up with something that lookes very frankenstien .

    (BTW. the cats stay on and the engine comes out the bottom tranny and all. should take about 4.5 hours) take alook at my members photo page to see how i did the rear end. if i were to do it again i would chang a couple things but thats another story .

    Jonny...

    BMW V12 in a fiero??!!

    in Other Engines

    Posted

    ive driven a fiero for 4 years and been working as a tech at a bmw delarship for about 4 years as well. and i say the two shouldent mix. if you want a fast fiero put a 3800 sc in it. if you want a relly expensive and relly rare fiero i say go for it. as for trannys porsch rear transaxle might be a choice. you would need to build a new bell housing? id rather put the effort towards my Z.

    jon...

    TC rod pivot relocation / Bad Dog subframe connectors / Slotted Crossmember

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis

    Posted

    i had a shower and thought about for a bit i get what you were saying about castor change. prety much what im going to have to do is rebuild every thing. but one of the next things i want to do i get the car to my work and put it on the rack and do a alignment just so i can see if the dang thing will go straight. this set up will do enough for test porposes. ive sloted the kmember that very nicely gets rid of bump steer but it also raises the front rool center quite a bit. i think once i get my engine test fit im goign to make a k member that adjusts the control arm height but also can move the rack up down forward and backward. for a truely adjustable front end.

    TC rod pivot relocation / Bad Dog subframe connectors / Slotted Crossmember

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis

    Posted

    ya i agree. after seeing it all together i think i prolly end up rebuild the arms. it never clued in to me up to the point when i was welding the arms up that with the 240sx rear it is a couple inches wider in the back. so im going to end up makeing new longer arms to match the width in the rear. and i agree the tc arm looks to short but i think it looks shortter than it is. because it mounts to the control arm ferther in board. and the amount of frame behind the "tc box". im no expert but whats a bad castor sweep. my understanding is that once set with this desighn castor would be the same no matter what the static legnth of the arm.

    jon...

    Rotisserie

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    heres a pic of mine the only thing i would change is the way it locks. im using a pin that goes through the hub assembly . and i uesd a jam bolt for a whial that worked relly well but chewed the inner tube to much. another idea i had was use a hand crank that used a mega gear reduction so spin the thing. much like a hand winch. you could use a ratchet to lock it out to. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=12633&cat=500&ppuser=12917

    Rotisserie

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    when i was building mine the i was more worried about hitting the low hanging beams in my shop. and i built the hight of the rottrisris so it teloscopes so when setting it up with the car on jacks i just move the rotisrie around the car and set. the height like that. i put large castors on the bottom and it made the unit relly nice.

    Control arm metal selection

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    Im starting the process of building the front control arm s for my 76. They will end up looking a lot like the Arizona z arms and I was wondering what type of steel all you think would be best. I was thinking chromemoly would be neat. My memory isn’t that great but I think that’s sae 4130 and 4140. and any of you who know anything about heat treatment tell me what you think the best treatment for a given steel in this application would be.

    Thanks

    Jon…

    AHHH!! My brakes are driving me crazy!!! HELP ME

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    another important thing is to not hold the bleader open for to long when bleading you have to focus on not letting more fulid out than it can take in or else you will get air in the system. two person bleading i find works most of the time becasue it actually in volves the piston in the master moving like it would. however it sounds to me like you have a problem with you master leaking. check it by ways others have described.

     

    hope i have helped

    jon...

    framerails/subframeconnectors tell me what you think

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I am working on restoring my 76 280 in to a racecar probably to be used in solo events and other track events. I’m just finishing the tare down process Last weekend I finished building my rotisserie and got the car up with the help of my dad. now that I am able to get at the bottom of the easy taking off the sub frames was easy about 20 min with rattle guns and two people ripping and tarring. Next step is to attack the rust the frame rails on the car are not grate and I’m replacing them.

     

     

    My design so far is to keep the bottom of the rocker panels the lowest point of the body. The stock floor and frame rail/sub frame connector hang down quite a bit I want to put a 1X2 square tube inside the rocker (reasons for that are 1 quick jacking and hoist points and 2 strength) I want the frame rail connectors (made of 2 ¼ X 2 ¼ 3/16 wall square tubing) to share the low point of the rocker panels (reasons for this is 1 can put the car down lower 2 maybe a smother bottom of the car would encourage air to escape with less resistance) now my question is if I mount my floor on top of my new relocated frame rail should there be any real problems other than modifying the pedals. I also need to replace the frame rails in the engine bay with 2-¼ X 2-¼ 3/16 wall square tubing. this would involve removing and reinstalling the bracket for the thrust arm. is there any tips on how to do this other than measuring from every direction.

     

     

    Sorry no pics. But if you were able to follow all that I would much appreciate hints tips criticism. if any one has pic. of home build frame connectors I would much appreciate seeing them. pretty much I am confident I’m my self and my buddy Dave (who I am building this car with) to proceed with the design proposed and get all measurements correct. I just don’t want to hear when its all said and done “you should have done it this way†“ you could have done it more like this†pretty much before I go and cut my car to bits I would like some input. for beater ideas.

     

     

    jon…

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