tvgz28
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Posts posted by tvgz28
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Well on my 1jzgte it was doing the same thing until i enabled the noise filtering. On your composite logger the top green line is the cam input, middle red is crank trigger, and bottom is sync error i think. If the pcb was configured wrong i dont believe that you would see any signal at all. On the cas does the 360 tooth wheel and the 6 tooth wheel both output on the same B/W wire? Also im not sure if the 6-1 configuration would support anything other then batch fire due to low resolution. One more thing, when you get your trigger right you can look at the gauge screen in tunerstudios on the lower right you'll see a little indicator that says sync will light up.
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I took some more pictures today of the engine and radiator.
This is pretty much the finished product for now. A side note and the 1zz coils, the coils sit around 1/2 inch higher then the valve cover galley so you can just put the coil cover on and pull it tight against the coils and it holds it great.
Here's a shot of the cooling system and my baby electric fan lol.
This is the shifter im using because the trans in electronically shifted . its made for a aw4 jeep trans but the aw4 and a340e are pretty much identical so it works like a charm. I use a b&m ratchet shifter for p/r/n/d and this controls the 1-4.
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Cool car. I spent 4 years at WCU and many weekends knocking around sylva. I've got a kid at WCU now. I'll look for the car the next time I'm up there.
Thanks man. I just kind of thew it together and when i get some more cash im going to go back and redo alot of things. I live about 10 min from wcu and ill tell you what in the last ten years its changed a bunch.
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What kind of coil are you running and what are your dwell settings?
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Have you tried turning the noise filtering on?
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I also wanna throw in some pics of my dash.
Here it is in the mock up stage.
With a few gauges.
In the living room wired up. Iv got the lilliput touch screen to tune the megasquirt on the fly if need be and the koso digi race dash is my tach/speedo and various temp readings.
I have to throw a pic in with the old ball and chain... JK, she's not that serious.
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Well here's a few pics of my 78 280 with a 1jz/auto swap i just did. Im running the engine fully sequential via megasquirt 3x dual wheel trigger (12 tooth crank with rear cam for reset) 1zz carolla coils and all stock sensors.for the fuel system im running the stock 280 pump to a 3/4 gallon surge tank that feed twin walbro 255's and dual -8 lines to a wye at the engine . it has the stock radiator with a honda electric fan which keeps it dead nuts on 180. Iv got the stock c12A turbos huffing 19psi through a a340e trans with shimmed accumulators and its pretty quick, i waxed a new ss camaro with a cam and exhaust and 5.0 stang on a 125 shot, It has a hard time hooking even with the bfg DR out back.
Here it is about to go under the knife. this is a time lapse of 6 days from start to finish, would have been done sooner but weather delays screwed me.
Here's the old and tired l28e.
Up on my ghetto lift.
Bout to get my yank on.
BAM l28 gone...
BAM 1jz in its new home
side shot
32x15x3 intromacooler thaingy
top shot. You can kinda see my stock radiator. i was worried about cooling but its never had a problem, plus i used off the shelf radiator hoses to..
And last but not least my super sweet cop attracting,fire breathing fender exit exhaust.
and the poser shot.
Here's the first drive video on stock boost and a rough tune.
Here's a little anitlag video, it builds around 17psi in 2.5 to 3 seconds. It sounds rough on the video but i think its cause the shitty microphone and sampling rate of my phone..the car sounds like sex in person.
Those are all the pics i have as of today. I can go get some more tomorrow to show it in its finished state.
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Ok scratch that I just re read your post zsteelman. Ill get the measurements and angles shortly.
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tvgz28, I really like that setup, especially the angle you put on the center console. Could you measure out the dimensions of the front panel to share with others? I really believe it would be helpful for others to get that nice angle, it reminds me of my 1g DSM.
Ya I can try and get some dimensions when I get home tomorrow. I'm trying to figure out what the best way to measure the curvature of the top plate, maybe make a reference line and measure multiple points that intersect with horizontal references say every 2 inches kinda like a spread sheet?
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Here's a few pics of mine that I made today. I still have a bunch of work to do on it but its a start.
Started with a basic shape then cut it out with the plasma.
I used the trim piece that goes on the front of the dash for a template for the top part and bent the other piece in a makeshift metal brake.
Mocked up.
Here's one with some of the gauges installed at night. Boost ,egt , wideband o2 , water temp , oil temp , oil pressure , fuel pressure and volt. Still waiting on my nitrous pressure gauge.
I got the koso digi display mounted. It will be my speed,rpm,fuel leval, ambient air temp, trans temp, diff temp and indicator lights. I still have to fab up some switches,powdercoat or wrinkle paint, mount the electronic boost controller and progressive water/meth controller and fab up a bracket for a 7 inch Lilliput touch screen that I will use to tune the megasquirt3 without having to break out the laptop.
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Well lol IV only got the passenger rear on so I can do the other three. I thought that this would be somewhat of a simple install but it looks like I'm going to have to break out the big guns.
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Ya stony I Remember reading that the 280 tubes were larger but I was supposed to have received a set that had a larger I.D for the. O.D of the 280 tubes but there may have been a mishap and I got the set machined for the 240. If no one thinks there will be an issue with hogging out the I.D of the adapter I'll just throw it on the lathe take some material out and be done with the beating. Maybe johnc can post his opinion on the situation.
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Ya I tried a ton of stuff. Check out my post in the s13 Bible.
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I have a 78 280z and the set I got was the first run of the 280z adapters. I know that this is supposed to be an interference fit but it might be just a little to snug. I under stand that you wouldn't want any movement and for it to be tight enough that the weld would not be the only thing holding it in place but I think this is a little excessive, I may be wrong though.
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Ok a little update.... I just attempted to install my rear coilover adapters and it just didn't work out at all, I had to mess with my damn tig rig for two hours and its still not working ( bad flow gauge) so ill be using a stick welder with some 7018's,I Then i cut the strut tube and tried to install the adapter tube and well it just decided to be a complete MOFO! I tired beating it on,pressing it on with a HUGE c-clamp, using heat, beveled the edge of the strut tube,sanded the strut tube and lots and lots of cussing and it still would only go on about a 1/4 of a inch down on the tube
.Well a quick trip to ingles and i picked up a bag of frozen carbon dioxide "ala dry ice" I then packed the strut tube full of the dry ice that i crushed into a powder like substance and while it was on chill i set the adapter tube in front on the kerosene ready heater we had warming our shop and waited about thirty minutes. After the mood was set for both the strut tube and the adapter my buddy and i decided that it was about the perfect time to mate the two like tiger woods and a washed up porn star. He then grabbed the adapter and dashed across the shop while i set waiting with my oak block of wood and 5LB sledge to beat the hot adapter on the frozen tube and well it worked... kinda. It went on all but a quarter of an inch from the bottom we then ran out of oxygen for the torches so ill have to continue the struggle tomorrow after i get my bottles filled.
There's one more issue that slipped by me. The rear camber plates don't fit on the emusa pillow balls
, The ID of the center hole is WAY to small so ill have to torch that out tomorrow to before i can go any farther...if the strut tubes play nice. -
Well that sucks that bolt is being a pita! I'm installing my coil over adapter tubes and its being a huge *****, IV tried heat, beating,sanding the spindle tube I even tried cussing it into submission but its not even close to fitting .....
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I wish I had the coin to drop on that ...but I'm a poor white kid so old school hx35 for me, unless someone makes a standalone controller for the he351ve then ill be a poor white kid with a vgt Turbo.
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ehh, clutch or not its still awesome!
I think iv deiced to go with the s13 dash on my project, did you ever do anything about the gap at the windshield and how bad is it?
I'v tried to distinguish the gap from your pictures but the glare on the windshield makes it kind of hard.
On another note, that bolt that broke off in your manifold, If you try to drill it out get a left hand drill bit.
From my past experiences after you get almost all the way through the broke fastener it loosens up and since your drilling with a counter clock wise motion the bolt will just come right out.... its almost a "sure thing"
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Damn that blows about the block and the run of bad luck but you took the same route i would have with the block, I mean hell If you read the package the jb weld comes in it gives some little comforting short story about how it was used to fix a cracked block on a dozer and blah blah blah and saved the day and cured world hunger lol.
Also that setup you got for GT5 is the ****! Does it have a clutch pedel?
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That engine management sounds alot like a Ford tfi setup, Does it adjust to changes in air flow well? larger turbo, ect
Those ride height pictures would be a great addition to the s13 coilover Bible I made!
The reason I'm trying to get info on the ride height is because some of us running the emusa coilovers fear it might be to low with the coilover threaded all the way out on the adapter tube, But if you think a near stock ride height is attainable with the Megan's then at worst the maximum ride height will be 1-3/4 below stock height which I believe just about everyone with this set up is going at least that low. I just was afraid you would say something like the highest you could go was 2 or so inches below factory height and with us that have the emusa's that would be 3-3/4 which would be lower then some would want to go.
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Ya I think that once we gather more info, a sticky would be an awesome idea!
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Ya i thought there might be a server issue after seeing double post in almost every thread lol.
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Ya i thought about just flipping the rack but the input would be at a steep downward angle. Maybe i could use a double u joint with a pillow ball.
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I decided to start a thread with all the s13 coilover (meagan/emusa/stance) information in one topic to keep other threads from getting cluttered.
Here are some links that iv gathered and please post others that might be useful on this subject.
240zdans original thread-HERE
zccjdm adpator thread-HERE
megans vs emusa coilovers-HERE
crazyoctopus build threadHERE
jmai86 s13 post-HERE
megans web site-HERE
Some good information and reviews on the magan's...it gets a little scattered near the end.HERE
Some info and pictures for you guys that will be running stance coiloversHERE
I will add more as the information becomes available and i will be sure to add my detailed install.
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, The ID of the center hole is WAY to small so ill have to torch that out tomorrow to before i can go any farther...if the strut tubes play nice.
240z precision 6262
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
I think you will really like the 6262 on the L24, i have one with a .68 ex housing on my 1jz and it spools around 4k so it should be similar on a 2.4.
Does yours have the antisurge housing?