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d3c0y

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Posts posted by d3c0y

  1. I went to StarRoad in 2012 and saw this car being built and heard it cold start which you can see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBdyYMeRiiY

    I can back up the 320ps claim, as that is what i was told by the mechanic when i was there. The carpet on the dash is just a dash mat the interior on that car is immaculate just like the rest of it. The car has had 50mm Solexs on it too.

     

    I took some pics at StarRoad including ones of this yellow car while i was there. You can see them here:

    https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.528519113876391.1073741829.277779232283715&type=3

     

    FWIW, I have a 3.4L L28 that makes as good as 360hp and 300ft/lbs at the crank and runs on pump fuel in a street registered car. 

     

    Build is here if you are interested: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.553626791365623.1073741831.277779232283715&type=1

    Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Vs7_89toUY

    It idles fine too btw: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=505700526158250

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  2. Thank Newie for your help is greatly appreciated, it's good start as the first post on my topic. But I don't have a lot of experience in mechanics and I try to find (if possible) someone who has made ​​a post or can tell me what brakes parts (Skyline GT-R 1994) is compatible as bolt on directly on a 260Z 1974, or what parts of Skyline GT-R 1994 is compatible by making some changes or forget that this is absolutely not compatible simply etc. Because in the forums and blog, I lose myself in the description when the world talks about S30, Z32, Z31, Z33, GT, skyline.

     

    For what it's worth those calipers are the same as 300ZX twin turbo calipers if they are the sumitomo calipers. If they are Brembos off the V-spec II then they are still the same bolt spacing on the mounting ears.

  3. Any reason you havent looked into getting some more head work done and getting a bigger cam? Even if you go turbo you are looking at spending in the thousands more. Maybe a 300 duration 500 liftish cam with the appropriate headwork will give you enough hp to keep you happy? Everything about hotting up Lseries N/A always seems to come back to one thing - how much you can make the head flow. With the forged pistons you will be able to rev it harder too and that's how N/As make power.

  4. You dont have to even use S13 coilovers. Have a look around and do a bit of research yourself. I'm using HKS Hypermax Performer coilovers from a GDB Impreza. You just need to find a pillow ball type top and 2" diameter body with a height adjustable body (dont confuse that for spring preload adjustment). From what i saw in the wreckers at Japan is that most coilovers are esentially the same - they just bolt different tops and bottoms on the bodies.

     

    If you look at the picture these HKS coilovers have much thicker shafts than most of the S13 dampers too.

    HKS%20Hipermax%20Damper%20GDB1.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1282274878886

  5. Hey Guys,

     

    I'm building an as close to 3.0L as I can get, high rpm, forged internal L28 with a stock stroke. I have both N42 and F54 block at my disposal and want to know definitively which is the best one to go with baring in mind it will be running an 89mm - 90mm bore size.

     

    I searched as hard as i could on this one and didnt really come up with anything solid on the subject other than a few suggestions the N42 maybe the way to go. I thought a thread with all the info in one place would be a handy thing to have anyway.

     

    Thanks

     

    Jake

  6. And as stated on the thread on the Aussie forum, the e-motive L28 was running a dry sump which is known to help brace the bottom of the block.

     

    Another interesting point is that Nissan switched to running girdles in their straight sixes as early as the RB30 in 1986 which is pretty much on the end of L28 production.

     

    I understand that the RB blocks aren't going to be the same exact design as the L-series and the RBs might have used the strength of a girdle to make the block lighter or something.

    However there must be something in it because all the good performance Nissan engines of the 90's incorporated them:

     

    RBXXDET

    SR20DET

    VG30DETT

     

    I'm no girdle evangelist, but I thought that anything that helps crank flex/whip is a good thing, especially in an L-series that has a high rev limit.

     

    Tony D please feel free to shoot down my post so i can learn another engine building lesson!

  7. I found the same thing but for an L24 rod and twice the cost in Australia.... Its sketchy because its cheap and it looks like they just copied and pasted the Corillo rod specs onto the auction.

     

    Whats this about being to narrow. Definitely don't want any of us buying something that won't work.

     

    With the way the exchange rate is at the moment the Aussie dollar is actually stronger than the US so they are a frigging bargain at that price even with shipping!

  8. Also when talking about forged rods - wouldnt brand new lighter weight units be better than a 30 year old fatigued set?

    At $350 - $600ish for a new set of rods with ARP bolts (well the ones im looking at anyway) the prep on a stock rod + fastners would have to be close to costing that much?

  9. Floating piston pins are not always forged. This is not a criteria for running floating rods/pins.

     

    Sorry Tony i should have been more clear i meant i was going a custom forged pistons so specifying a floating pin is not an issue.

    I am going to run tefflon button type setup irrespective.

     

    I figure with the 4g difference that the whole rotating assemlby needs to be balanced anyway so it would be a big deal.

    The rods can be machined to balance can't they?

  10. These look almost identical to some rods that I picked up. Seems like a good deal to me. They are stock L28 length, and require floating pin. So you need to run forged pistons with these.

     

    Yeah i plan on running custom forged anyway because i want 140mm long rods. What brand are the ones you have that are similar?

  11. Yes there has been a number of post about those rods. The big end is too narrow to use.

     

    I've just done a search for crankshaft depot and only found one other thread on these rods.

     

    Are these the same ones that have a too narrow big end?:

    Ebay L28 Forged Rods

     

    The old ebay links in this and the other thread no longer work.

    There was also mention of better rods for a similar price any leads on where that might be?

    I'm actually after FJ20DET rods FWIW.

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