Adam87
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Posts posted by Adam87
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****UPDATE Continued****
JSK Fuel rail installed - new hoses/clamps.
Replaced the blown up T3 - painted a few things while I was in there.
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****UPDATE****
I realize I didn't came back to this thread to update anything. Here are some pics
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Anybody know where to get a set of injectors cheap?
Ebay.
I've gotten em a lot cheaper than that, but thats the cheapest set I see on ebay atm which is pretty much the same price as if you were to get the injectors that autozone has to offer.
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Has anyone had any experience with UR Strut bars? I like the look. Just wondering how good they are and if they will fit under the hood without cutting it.
http://www.ultraracing.com.my/template.asp?menuid=56
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lmao looks weird to see seats in a z... i havent had any in mine for about a year now.... is that when you know you've been bit by the "while im at it bug"?
haha. I believe so. Mine hasn't had seats in it for over a year now either.
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I'd imagine the threaded potion in the rail is a NPT size.
Most likely 3/8" NPT.
And you were 100% correct. Got my 3/8 NPT to -6AN adaptors ordered. I can't wait to get this installed along with my Fuel Labs pressure regulator.!
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Most likely 3/8" NPT.
After looking at an NPT size chart that looks like its it.
size| diameter | TPI | Pitch
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3â„8 | 0.675 in | 18 | 0.05556 in (1.41122 mm)
0.675 in - which is why I couldn't tell exactly 5/8" or 3/4" diameter, its right in between.
Thanks for the info guys. I'll check it out tonight after work and see for sure.
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I'd imagine the threaded potion in the rail is a NPT size.
Most likely 3/8" NPT.
That would be a good guess. When I measure across the threaded opening it looks like 3/4". Guess I'll get a couple cheap NPT fittings from Lowes and test then order an NPT to AN adapter.
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It could also be in SAE or metric. The fuel rail cockerstar made for me had 1/2 openings and I ended up going with AN fittings. I used a 1/2 to -8 AN fitting
hmm. We'll that gives me more to think about. I guess my best bet is going to be to get a proper measuring tool. The barbed fitting(brass) all look to be NPT as is the Port the pressure gauge is install in. I got it used off ebay btw, thats why I'm unsure of the threading.
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Does anyone know what size AN Fitting the ends on a barbed JSK Fuel rail are. I tried measuring the thread opening, couldn't quite tell exactly as all I had to measure with is a tape measure. It looked between 5/8" & 3/4" which according to wiki is -10an or -12an. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread#cite_note-0. I have searched online and on the forums and haven't been able to find anything. I am going with a -6an setup so I'll need an AN reducer at the rail. Unfortunately I don't know of any shops/stores around here that sell AN fittings so I can't go test one out and get what I need. Though I did find a site with cheaper prices than earl - http://www.allpurposepipes.com
This Fitting (Not my car)
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Seen this in the parking lot at Carolina place mall, had to take a pic. Sorry bout the cell phone pic.
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Seen this browsing ebay for 280zxt parts. Definitely can't afford it, but thought it was cool non the less.
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So I installed a fuse holder and put a 25amp fuse in it. Tested it, turned the key to start it and the fuse blew out instantly. When I have time this weekend I'll go through my new connectors and see what I can figure out. I'll keep y'all updated.
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The descriptions of wire gauge in the FSMs, plus the Courtesy Nissan web page support the premise that Br (Brown) is actually what is now called red and is 0.3 mm^2 in diameter.
I think that Post #12 in your first link is on the mark. The wire gauge is listed in the FSM. The only reference I have seen on the internet to red as 50 amps is the atlanticz site, and on the atlanticz site, they call red out as 0.69 mm^2 not 0.3 as Hyuri says (in your link). It would be great if blue would address that issue someday on the atlanticz site, since tens, hundreds, maybe thousands of people take it as Z gospel. Luckily it only really matters if you have a short.
It's interesting that the ZX fusible link cover still shows Br for link color, but the stock link looks red.
Yep you are right. Thank you for clearing that up. It is interesting indeed. After looking back I see that hughdogz used a 25 amp fuse for that link.
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Your jumper wire just did the same thing the fusible link did. It melted because it had too much amperage through it. The components on that circuit,including your fuel pump, should not be pulling enough amps to melt the link or the jumper. There must be a short somewhere in the circuit.
By the way, red may not necessarily be a 50 amp link. There is some confusion about it in the 280Z world. I'm not familiar with ZX's though, but you should probably confirm it or you might melt the next weakest link in the circuit with your 50 amp fuse.
The wiring diagrams should tell if one of the components that you upgraded has a direct connection to ground, that you might have reversed.
I was going by this thread / link for the amps. I will definitely double check the FSM first.
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html
Good idea, I will look a the wiring diagram to see whats connected to that link.
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Are any of your new connections grounding? that would cause it to burn
None of the wires on the new connections are exposed. I soldered them together and covered with heat-shrink. I'm going to put a fuse holder in place of the link when I get home tonight so I can test some more. The jumper wire idea was dumb, I'm sure it wasn't a thick enough gauge to handle the red 50amp link.
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I think I have a ground wire crossed or something on my 280ZXT. Just finished replacing the 2 pole connectors on the harness for my fuel injectors, Head Temperature Sensor, and air regulator. When I turned her on, she ran for like 3 seconds, then the ign fusible link melted, put a jumper wire on it to test and melted it too.
If I accidentally have one of the connectors wires reversed, would that cause the link to burn? If so is there an easier way to test than cutting the heat-shrink and looking, like with a test light or something.
Thanks,
Adam
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You can always do like this guy: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2906184/1983-nissan-280zx
Holy crap that is hilarious. Please don't do that to your Z.
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"Changed fluids - didn't get much oil out so I'm sure there is some thick oil still in there"
with old oil you will need to run your car for atleast 10 to 15 min or op temp so all the old oil can become liquid again.i bought a s130 last year which had the same problem and all i did was change the oil all it did was block up the oil pump screen...some old bloke i know advised me to immediatly put in the old oil and drive it for a while...kinda glad i did otherwise i would have killed the old girl
"Started up fairly easy without much help from the gas pedal. Idled a little rough then smoothed out"
you shouldnt need to use the gas pedal on startup unless you have carbs,the roughness would have come from the temp sensor/cold start mec...definatly normal
"Oil pressure was up around 70, then dropped to around 20 as it idled for a while."
by rule of thumbs the oil pressure should be up to 1/3 of gauge at idle and possibly over 2/3 at full noise
Thank you for the info.
Does anyone recommend running diesel fuel in the oil to clean out the galleries/any build up?
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If thats true about the offset that would be around 6" of backspacing and a 280zx needs about 4" of backspacing if I remember correctly, someone else could confirm this but you would need like a 2" spacer/adapter to get that to work and also that would stick the wheel/tire out out pretty far and it may not even fit under the fenders. The reason it may fit on the S30 in the pic above is because for a stock S30 the backspacing needed is about 4.5 so they are probably using a 1 inch adapter. Personally I don't like adapters/spacers and most tire shops won't touch cars with them for a reason because they can be unsafe but its up to you. There is a difference between spacers and adapters. Spacers are usually fine since they are only a few mm thick most of the time but adapters are different and I have heard stories about them shearing off under hard cornering etc etc.
I think you right. I don't see them fitting my zx. I'm not to fond of spacers/adapters either. I'm just going to polish my stock turbo rims and use that money for other upgrades.
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May be able to fit on a ZX, with properly spaced adapters. If I recall properly, most of the 4-lug Fox 17x9's are around +24mm offset.
Yea I searched online a bit and all I could find was a +24mm on 17x9s.
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I can get a set of 17 x 9 Cobra rims from a guy with new tires for $300.
I don't know what the offset is. I think the bolt pattern is 4x108 though
So I'll have to use adapters:
They are identical to these:
Does any know if they will fit for sure, maybe from experience?
Thanks for the help.
New here:: Getting an 83 280zx Turbo
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
Not DD ready but sooo close I can taste it!