jrb1449
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Posts posted by jrb1449
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Thank you very much! This is the kind of information i was looking for.
I currently have a 2600 stall and was already looking at the Comp 268H! I also have been looking into 750 carbs. I am not really sure what kind of heads to get. The internet is so opionated I find all kinds of discussions on which are better. They however, talk actual dyno results.
I may have to switch out my rear end. I already plan on the T5 swap ASAP.
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First off, never measure ride height that way. Measure from the ground to the bottom surface of the rocker panels front and rear. These cars are over 30 years old and the wheel wells may have been messed up in an accident. Your car might be level and the wheel wells poorly repaired.
Second, measuring droop is meaningless for any kind of comparison.
Third, if any of your wheels are wobbling, you've got a tire, wheel, or suspension problem.
I'm pretty sure its a suspension problem. The wheels and tires have been dynamically balanced using a Hunter machine.
The reason I measured at full droop is to see if it could be a difference of shock/spring. Since it is same at full droop and when compressed I don't think it is the spring or shock.
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Thanks. Today I welded some angle iron to my front diff mount as that seems to be the source of my clunking.
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So I am wondering why my driverside rear is way lower than the passenger side. When on the ground (as you can see in the pics) there is like an inch and a half differene!
With the car on jackstands at full droop it is the same way like an inch and a half different the passenger side hangs lower than the driverside. Also are the LCAs suppose to look different?
At first, I thought maybe this was due to the lowering springs that the car came with. They are gray/silver (not sure of the brand) and I think stock type shocks. The strut tubes do not appear to have been cut.
Is this normal for these cars or is something wrong here? The only reason this all came about is because when my car was on the dyno the other day the rear driverside wheel looked like it was wobbling pretty bad so i tried to see if I could find anything going on today.
Any thoughts? Any help would be appreciated!
Josh
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Sorry for the confusion. I understand that all dynos produce different numbers (some higher, some lower) I really don't care about that at this point. The only reason I am thinking of dynoing elsewhere is simply because the shop that I just went to is 70miles from home. My old shop is like 10 minutes from my house and I will mostly likely et a price break since I use to work there!
So If I get a baseline at the new place and continue to go there from now on.
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They are Rota RBR's in Royal gold. They are 17x9.5 with -19 offset and some spacers.
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I think you missed part of the point of my linked thread. A dyno is best used as a comparative tool, not a meter to tell you absolute HP measurements. Switching dyno's to get a bigger number doesn't make your car any faster, does it?
I am purely interested in the differnt readings of the two brands of machines. I am looking for an actual increase in power. I would just rather use a machine local to me. I live in Sacramento,CA and the shop I went to was over 70 miles away. I totally get what you are saying.
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Rustoleum HighGloss Black. It too was rolled on.
I sanded a couple of spots before this pic was taken and it still needs to be buffed and polished.
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my GF has a 2003 Acura CL Type S 6spd. I am very aware of the power! lol
Its a 2003 and has 190k on the clock and still is a blast to drive!!
I replaced the timming belt and water pump a while back and thats it! (other than several sets of tires)
Still on the stock clutch even! (knock on wood) and she drives all over the San Francisco Bay. She commutes to Sacramneto regularly as well.
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By checking it I should be at full 32 degrees at 3k rpm correct?
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Don't pour thousands into building a new engine just yet. I've yet to see a car roll onto the dyno for a TUNING SESSION (ie: not just a baseline) that wasn't leaving horsepower untapped. In some cases with V8's like yours, their has been 50+hp untapped that could be freed up with just tuning.
Check out the dyno thread here:
For instance:
This was just jetting and timing in both cases... Buy some jets, and head back to the shop.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THAT LINK!! It was super informative!!!
I am going to go back to my old shop here in town with the Dynojet and get a couple of baselines to see what the difference is. The only problem is that my old shop is now under new ownership and just because someone owns a dyno does not mean they know how to tune!!!!!! Trust me!!! My old boss acted like he knew what was up but sometimes I could tell he really didn't!! I guess I need to ask some oldschool hotrod guys here locally for good places that have a dyno and REALLY KNOW how to tune!!
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I took some pictures of the dyno print out. (crappy cellphone)
I really don't think it was running way rich or lean. (what the heck do I know, maybe you folks could shed some light on that)
Timming was @ 12 degrees at idle without the advance (I'm guessing about 36 degress full advance.)
I ran a 13.895 at 94 mph on 23" tires
I weighed it at the local truck scale and was 2700lbs with me in the car (I am about 270lbs)
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Sounds to me like your dyno numbers are not very accurate. I would think that running a 13.8 you would be making more than 195/270
Ya know, I didn't want to sound like a ***** and ask them what was up. I worked at a shop years back and we had an actual Dynojet and it was a huge above ground structure! The one at Daft is like a Dynocomp or something like that. It looked like a really small portable type unit???
I just didn't want to look like a poor looser asking how accurate there machine was. Either way it was only $40 for three pulls. lol.
At my old shop, like 5yrs ago, we charged $100 for 3-4 pulls.
I don't remeber seeing anyone that was really happy with their numbers.
In fact there was a guy with a 92-95 Honda civic with a Acura 3.2 CL tye S swap and he put down 213hp to the wheels! I was really thinking my car sucked. But after thinking about his traction issues with the 195/50 tires he was sporting I was sure I was probably faster! hahaqha
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Hi Guys,
I have a a 73 240z with an older Chevy 350 which I was told has:
new HEI accel dist
fuelly heads with 2.02 stainless valves
HD valve springs
roller tip rockers 1:6
and some kind of 509 cam???
and was told around 10:1 compression
Edelbrock 600cfm carb
Weind "Stealth" intake
homemade looking headers (ewww)
full 3" exhaust(from collectors to a y tube all the way back to a Jones Racinf 3" straight through muffler)
It is mated to a built th350 trans
and a welded stock 73 automatic diff (not sure of the ratio but should be stock)
23" tall rear tires
shitty Eldelbrock foam air filter
I went to the Daft Innovations Dyno meet in Modesto this weekend and was let down to find out that I was only putting down 195hp/270ftlbs.
I would like to achieve 300hp to the wheels and around a 12.5-12.7 1/4 mile time. Is this not acheivable? It currently runs 13.8's due to the smaller diameter tires. The previous owner ran 13.5's on 26" tires and I have seen the timeslips.
I am wondering if anyone on here has a simalr setup in their Z and if so what kind of 1/4 mile times they are seeing. Also gas milage with a simular setup using the th400 trans or WC t5. I am going to change my transmission soon as I need an overdrive.
What are some suggestions to make more power? I think I may need to up the compression as I just dont think I really have 10:1 I think it is probably stock pistons. I currently run 91 octane and would like to keep it that way.
I am thinking:
new pistons
new cam and probably full roller rockers
new carb
new intake
What are your thoughts/suggestions? Which ones should I look into?
I have been using the search feature and can't seem to find what I am looking for.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ANY INFO YOU CAN OFFER!!! And don't laugh at my ghetto engine and engine bay. These are the next things I am going to work on. LOL.
I have had the car for like 2 months and have been mainly focused on its appearence. Now I am trying to improve the performance. (see the before and after pics)
Josh
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Heres a crappy cellphone pic of the motor.
It currently has a weiand intake and Edelbrock 600cfm carb.
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Here are some pics of some of the other cars that attended the Daft Innovations Event/BBQ in Modesto,CA.
There were a lot of awesome cars! There was a 92-95 Civic with a Acura 3.2 CL type S V6 swap 6spd and all! Cressida with lexus v8(1zufe), toyota truck with 1zufe, s14/LS1, Cressida/LS1!!! Like I said a lot of cool cars!
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Took a couple of pics of the car on the dyno at the Daft Innovations Meet yesterday. The paint is pretty close to done.
Once the car was on the dyno i could see the back driverside wheel vibrating violently. Something in the suspension is worn out or broken. I should have this worked out this week. Also going to start working on my motor. My alternator belt flys off under hard acceleration since the alternator brackets are homemade and crooked due to the use of the engine mount plate. I need to make some real mounts ASAP and get this fixed.
I also found that my motor is not producing the power I was told it was making when I purchased it (Like anyone ever tells the truth when selling motors hahahaha). I was told it was around 330hp. It dynoed at 195hp/270ftlbs. This was a let down as the car feels really fast and sounds good.
So I am going to pick up a new carb, intake, and cam that hopefully work better with my motor. Then I will re-dyno to see if it increases.
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I almost bought a set like that, let me know how they fit and I might call the guy again.
Sweet z!
They fit in the car fine. The only problem is that I am 6'1" and about 275lbs. I drilled a couple of holes and they bolted right into the car. I may need to take them back out and actually cut the bracing out of the floorboard and mont these suckers to the floor. I don't like feeling bigger than I already am in this car. With them mounted in the stock location they are a little too high for me (ie: legs too close to the wheel)
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How is that tire holding air????
HAHA... The bead is seated. The tire is stretched on. Its the same as the old 13x6.5 reverse wires lowriders have been rolling for years except with less fatty sidewalls.
Its funny that everyone is amazed and is sooooo sure they will blowout! LOL. This isn't my first rodeo folks.
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I picked up some seats for the Z.
They are a little taller than stock with the sliders. I am going to try them out and if they feel like they are sitting up to high I may just have to go to town on cutting out the OEM seat braces and mount them to the floor directly. I figure I could just use some 1/4 flatbar for reinforcement. We shall see, for now they are in the car.
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Ever get the paint done????
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I got the mirrrors off ebay. They came from the Philipines.
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Thanks for your input Jeff.
I like the way stretched tires look. I also just got a set of street slicks for the track and ordered some Azenis for the front.
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I have been to lazy to finish my paintjob. I did test fit the new wheels and tires as well as the mirrors.
I need bigger spacers for the rear. Right now I have 25-30mm bolt on H&R's in the rear and could probably go another 25mm or so. The fronts have a 5-10mm (1/4") spacer. The rims are all four 17x9.5 -19's. The tires are 205/40 r17's.
As for the gearing issue. I was thinking the 17's would be overall bigger that the 15's I had. I was wrong. They are only like maybe 1" bigger in diameter. It still screams down the freeway.
I will just have to wait for a T-5 I gues cause it looks like the gears in the automatic 73 240 are the lowest available for the r180. I may also try to pick up an r200 if I can find one with long gears. like a 3.20 or something.I did also weld on a new Jones racing muffler with a straght through design yesterday and it is probably too loud now but sounds good.
I will just have to wait for a T-5 I gues cause it looks like the gears in the automatic 73 240 are the lowest available for the r180. I may also try to pick up an r200 if I can find one with long gears. like a 3.20 or something.
Let down on the Dyno!
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
That is exactly what I am looking for! a fast DD.
The only problem is the 11:1 compression. Here in Cali the highest octane I normally see is 92. Were you running race fuel or 100 octane with your setup? Is that really a good idea for a DD? I am fairly sure I have stock pistons of some sort in the motor currently.