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thehelix112

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Everything posted by thehelix112

  1. Thanks Rich, I have a G35 6-speed and trans adaptor ready to go. Clutch and flywheel I discussed with the guys here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/107225-custom-qm-flywheel-with-3-plate-clutch/page__p__1004083__hl__%2Bvk56+%2Bcustom+%2Bflywheel__fromsearch__1#entry1004083 so I know where I'm going with that. Itching to get the welder fired up and fab up some mounts for the engine/box so I can get things in place! Dave
  2. Bugger all movement lately.. I did just finish pulling the wires for the new 220v line for my welder which is good. So I'll hopefully get the wiring totally finished soon and be able to start the real work on this conversion! Wiring is fun. I consulted a couple of knowledgeable friends about it and ran a 3/4" EMT conduit around 100' down the side of my house and into the garage (house is on a slab). In it I put 2x6 AWT for the hot 220v sides, 1x8 AWT for the 220v ground, and 3x12 AWT (white,black,green) for neutral, hot, earth of another 110v circuit. So the lines are all done, I just need to do the breaker box work which I doubt will take long. I think I will pay a sparky to come out and double check my work before I flip the switch. Would rather not burn down my house. Dave
  3. HaaJeHaa, I agree with the sentiment, and I'd like to support the people that take the initiative and build something new, rather than those who shamelessly copy them after they prove successful, however, sometimes the decision is not a 'Nike' shirt and shorts versus a 'Nuke' shirt and shorts, it's a 'Nike' shirt and shorts versus being stark arse naked. Dave
  4. Cary, Thanks again. Ensuring you don't over-extend the clutch makes a lot of sense. I guess I'll need to have a platform or something fabbed up for the release bearing arrangement to mount to. I think I understand the issues at play now, at least a bit more than I did, and hopefully enough to get in touch with someone and be able to ask the correct questions. Thanks again guys, Dave
  5. Cary, Thanks! So basically you would recommend going with a hydraulic release bearing, like http://www.quartermasterusa.com/qm/components/bearings.html I'm sorry I'm unsure what you mean by 'annular style bearing'. It makes sense that this allows you to get much better precise control over the engagement. I'm afraid I'm unsure what you mean by free play. Are you talking about the amount the thrust bearing will back-off from the clutch forks? I don't understand the term crank thrust issues either I'm sorry. Maybe because it's sunday, I'll re-read what you wrote again tomorrow, but I'm unsure if it'll click in. I think I'll be getting in touch with someone like taylor race and explaining the situation to them and seeing what they have to say. Thanks again guys! Dave
  6. Hey Cary, I was hoping to use the VK56 flex plate, and simply get a 5.5" OD 'flywheel' that basically bolts onto the crank over the top of the flex plate. Does that sound doable? By 'button' do you mean a largish single plate ceramic clutch? The only reason I have for going smaller/multiplate is the additional responsiveness in the engine. The starter on a VK56 sits between the banks, so there is no issue with starter/flex plate. The issue I have is how thick to make the flywheel, so it will engage properly with the G35 transmission + 5/8" adaptor, and hopefully still leave room enough for the stock actuator arm to disengage the clutch without interfering with the clutch housing. I am worried this piece needs to be precise in terms of the thickness of the flywheel. I am unsure if my best bet is to just buy the clutch then see where I stand. I am sure if there is interference I could work around it. On the clutch choice, for the price, and the number of miles this car sees (sweet fark all) I am willing to live with a 5.5". I have never been to an autox to be honest, I am much more interested at the moment in track days/HPDE. I understand what you're saying about heat capacity, but I am hopeful the car will be used most of the time in locations where it's acceptable to slip the tyres, not the clutch. Thanks again for the advice. Dave
  7. Awesome, thanks guys! My concern is getting the measurements wrong. I was hoping to use the stock auto ring-gear, as it looks very very light already. Yes the concerns I had were the overall height of the system, and as I am running an adaptor, getting the clutch in the right position to by fully engaged on the input shaft. I was (naively?) thinking that I could work the clutch system later by changing the slave clyinder. I.e. offsetting it forwards/backwards to account for different heights, and changing it's ID to account for more/less total travel required. Thanks again, I'll post back here after I talk to taylor. Dave
  8. Yeah it's mine, I think I already posted them here so won't do it again, some pics in my build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/63506-daves-280z-vk56de-project/page__view__findpost__p__953511 Take it easy, Dave
  9. Yeah I have been in touch with Jared, but I don't think he is running the same clutch that I am. The question was more a general one, I'm not looking for a specific answer to my very specific application, I'm curious about how people go about specing a clutch for this sort of application. At the moment I'm leaning towards cading something up and getting it prototyped in plastic (pretty cheap around here), that should allow me to iterate on the design a few times before I send it to QM to see what they think. Thoughts? Dave
  10. Hey guys, So I have my VK56DE, and am making forward (if slow) progress on getting it mounted in the car. I also have a transmission adaptor for the G35 6-speed I got. The next big pieces I am missing are the clutch and flywheel. I am unsure how to approach this. I have selected the clutch I want to use: http://www.quartermasterusa.com/qm/without-button-flywheel-3-disc-1-1-8-x-10-5-5-quot-pro-series-clutch-unit.html but I am at a total loss for how to go about specing up the flywheel to mate everything together. The adaptor is 16mm (5/8") thick, so I have am very open to suggestions about how to proceed: I've been in touch with QM about the manufacturing a custom flywheel to suit, which seems to be a reasonable option, however: Do I buy the clutch and try to mock up a flywheel out of scrap steel/plastic/wood that will suit then send it to them as a template? Or do I try and give QM as much information about the dimensions and hope they come up with the right thing? Should I just take it to someone local (LA area) who can do the job, if so, any recommendations? Many thanks guys, Dave
  11. Mark, That makes sense. I was just thinking, you obviously have the skills and ability to make whatever you want happen, so it'd be a question of weighing the extra work to have that air exit either out the bonnet or out the front guards or elsewhere, versus the aerodynamic inefficiency in having a high pressure zone under the front of the car. Either way, I can't wait to see it Dave
  12. I never understood the idea behind putting the radiator/intercooler slanting backwards at the top like that. Where is the air that comes out of it going to go? It'd seem better to me to perhaps have both of them slanting forwards but offset longitudinally (so the radiator is further forwards) and have ducting that splits the air coming into the front of the car between the two of them and then exhausts both of them out the bonnet. Just curious what you have planned. Dave
  13. Am I missing where he did more than just one door?
  14. I agree with everything you said Tony, with the exception of that last line, which went into my brain sounding like "Bah humbug!". I would also like to point out that this thread is very teasing: It aludes to an intriguing subject of RB26-head-on-L, and yet, nothing much about that recently. I get Peter is running a business, but I do wish whoever/whatever was financing that build would pull their finger out and get it done. I wanna hear/see that. Dave
  15. That looks SLICK! Just want to confirm what wheels they are, they look fantastic matched to the rocker cover like that. Awesome. Where in Norway are you? Dave
  16. Also the new Fisker Karma's exhaust exit right there on both sides, though they are pointed downwards: Dave
  17. Sounds good. Be interesting to point a laser temperature gun at the connections between the head and the big cooling line, and see how the temperatures change. There are a few good threads on here about cooling issues on the L6, http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/page__view__findpost__p__539888__hl__ is a good one started by TimZ with a high HP turbo L28. Would love to hear how you're measuring and validating your results, and how it all goes. Dave
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