thehelix112

I was unsure whether to post this here, but after doing some reading about this, including Tony's post here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/35359-info-on-california-engine-swaps-bar/page__view__findpost__p__660517 I have a couple of questions. I have read some of the text involved here and traced it back through the DMV codes, specifically regarding the exemption from certain smog test rules for so called 'collector cars': http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d03/vc4000_1.htm Disclaimer: I am not a lawyer. My analysis: --------------- The benefit to this is exemption from subsection (f) of the Health and Safety Code 44012 (http://law.onecle.com/california/health/44012.html), which is for a functional or visual check of emission control devices: The catalytic converter is explicitly mentioned. This does not affect the other requirements for smog testing listed on that page which include: * emission control systems are correctly reducing emissions as per Section 44013 (a ) and (c ) (http://law.onecle.com/california/health/44013.html) which include: * emission levels reasonably achievable for each class and model of vehicle allowing for installed emission control devices and age and mileage * emission standards shall not be more stringent than those under which the motor vehicle's class and model-year were certified * the vehicles emission control systems are working (exact working is: "preconditioned to ensure representative and stabilized operation of the vehicle's emission control system.") * the actual check for exhaust emissions * a check for crankcase and evaporate fuel emissions. I take this to mean that the crankcase vents to the exhaust, and the fuel system leak-down test is still required to be passed. * that the vehicle complies with emission standards for the vehicle's class and model-year * on board diagnostic checks (not an issue for S30s). * that the vehicle is safe to test. If this is an issue you've got bigger problems. Issues: ---------------- I see several issues with this. The first is that the definition of collector motor vehicle does not appear to cover our cars: The DMV definitions is at http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d01/vc259.htm which basically just references http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d03/vc5051.htm for collector motor vehicles, which in turn references http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d03/vc5004.htm,'>http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d03/vc5004.htm, which indicates that this definition applies primarily to hot rods (lots of stuff about prior to 1922 and more than 16 cylinders (!)). The only clause that I can see that would apply is: "(3 ) A vehicle which was manufactured after 1922, is at least 25 years old, and is of historic interest." -- in Section 5004 (http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d03/vc5004.htm). I am unsure who makes this determination. Maybe it only applies to 240z? The second issue is a contradiction in the language. The exemption is for the visual and functional check of the emission control systems, but the car is still required to have working emission and control system. I don't understand how they think they are going to check the 'preconditioning' of the vehicle without a visual or functional check, and I am unsure which of the rules would apply, but I imagine as this subsection (b ) is not explicitly exempted, it still applies. Value: ---------------- The value here is that the exemption from emission control systems function/visual check, and wording of the rules which repeatedly references the _vehicle's_ emission control system, I think may mean that as long as you still have a CAT, and a charcoal canister, and a PCV system that vents into the engine, it should not matter what engine is in the car. Limitations: ---------------- I have not yet read any specific details about engine swaps in the DMV code, and I do not know how those rules may affect the above. Has anyone else read these bits, or had any experience with collector smog exemptions? Dave

Welcome Tristan.

Is your camber from lower control arms or camber tops? I have a little negative camber just from longer lower control arms, and mine don't stick out anywhere near that far. I have classic datsun ZGs, and Hankook Ventus Z214s semi slicks. I also didn't have to remove my front indicator. How high up did you mount the flares? Dave

pics!

Found the pictures: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/gallery/album/1220/703-280z-bump-steer-tie-rod-ends/ And the write up is here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/84480-diy-bump-steer-adjustable-tie-rod-ends/ Dave

The pictures that are broken in this thread can be found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/gallery/album/1220/703-280z-bump-steer-tie-rod-ends/

I am afraid I can't find the pictures, but I built some out of hex bar and some rod ends. I needed a drill and a damn expensive left hand tap to screw into the stock steering rack. I'll see if I can find the post about it. Dave

Peter, It'd be awesome if you provided more info up front. Less confusion for the masses like me that way. Did you drill and tap new holes in the head on every port? What size? Did you use anything to ensure you were drilling in the right spot? Or does the drill bit just locate naturally? Love the pictures. Dave

When you say forward, do you mean in relation to the driver (ie, closer to the driver), or in relation to the car (ie, closer to the firewall)? Dave

Tony, My bad, I haven't read the thread in question. I thought he'd drilled a new hole in the head and tapped it. Didn't realize it was already there. Thanks, Dave

PMC, Do you drilled that on the head you cut open to locate the spot, then drilled the same thing on a real head? Any additional tips/tricks you used to get the location identical and the angle of drilling identical would help us all out. Great mod though. Am I right in assuming that where you drilled was two separate water galleries? Or is it just a casting error? Dave

I wrote a tutorial on the SR transmission swap a few years ago. Unfortunately doesn't have any pictures. Still might be of some use: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/40643-tutorial-sr-gearbox-onto-l-series-engine/page__p__331608__fromsearch__1#entry331608 Dave

Looks like you have your pick Greg. I have one in West LA, P90, with cam, though cam disassembled. Dave

Errr.. someone stole the rear side of your guards!

Oh! My bad. I totally missed it on my phone. sorry. Dave

I think that last one should be your new avatar. Dave

Yeah that's pretty aewsome Bob. Congrats. Dave

Hehe, I think you forgot the link?

Cool. keep us updated how you go with it. Dave

Well said. Thanks. Dave

Makaofox, Fair point. I cannot argue about an emotional experience. I was merely pointing out that at a purely functional level, low VINs would seem to be inferior to later ones. I would also say you're generalizing about the community: They're not worth anything to me. Additionally, I don't know that the modifications to zeds that hybridz was founded upon would do much to increase the value of a low VIN chassis? Dave

I guess it's more valuable simply because people will pay more for it, for the reasons you mention. Good for them I say! Dave

Oh cool, I didn't realize that's what Alan was referring to. This pic clearly shows the tensioner setup I think: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:1969_Nissan_S20_engine_left.jpg Dave

I think you're wasting your time. For about the same amount of effort you could review this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/83751-how-much-tubing-to-make-a-roll-bar/ and follow the experience there if you're on a budget. The link to the main hoop dimensions is broken, this is the correct link: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/gallery/image/3103-main-hoop-dimensions/ Dave

Bringing back from the dead. This thread is super useful IMHO, but the link to the dimensions on the first page broke with the software update. Here is the fixed link: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/gallery/image/3103-main-hoop-dimensions/ Dave