cbclarkkent

If I had the money I'd have to do the ls1, but I've got a very small budjet. The ka is an engine that is finally gaining popularity. As far as the welding goes I will tell you welding thicker metal is much easier to weld than sheet metal. (to me anyway) If your learning (to me)then welding up a motor mount would be good practice. The reason I said use the original s13 cross-member is because the motor does not stand straight up in the engine bay. It is leaned over toward the drivers side. By have the cross-member to go by it takes the guesswork out of figuring the ammount of lean. I had the l24 as well but lets face it they are pretty expensive to work on and everyone will tell you to go l28. I just wanted cheap reliable hp so thats why I choose the ka.

I'm still in my build up as we speak. I don't have any pics of the mount but I can tell you I just used an S13 front cross-member as a guide. You can pick one up cheap at the junk yard. A side note though, the factory A/C compressor is right in the way of the steering linkage, so if you plan on running A/C you'll have to figure something out. No A/C for me. I can also tell you there is a ton of room in the engine bay once its in. The hood clears my engine by like 2-1/2" thanks to the factory bulge in the middle of the hood.

Made my own. To easy to make to justify paying that kind of money.

Yeah Jackson is 45 min from me. One more thing, my car was a factory auto that I'm converting to manual. The factory z auto cross-member bolted right to the sx manual. However, once I raised the trans back into the z, even though it bolted right in (the shifter even came right through the hole) it would have the engine sitting about 4 to 5 inches in front of the firewall. I'm sure it would have worked just fine but I just didn't like it so I ended up cutting the z and the sx cross-members and made one that swept rearward a good 2 inches or so. By doing that it looks like it belongs there but of course one change brings many others, now the console may not fit perfectly and the valve cover hits the hood latch. So more mods but that's what you end up with when you go custom.

Awesome just realized your only about three hours from me neighbor.

I'll try to help you out. I am in the process of installing an entire rear suspension, engine, and trans from a 92 240sx into my 72z. I can tell you the slip yoke of the stock z driveshaft will slide right into the manual trans from the sx. However I can not tell you if the length will have to be modified. So I would assume worst case you would have to have your cut, lengthened or shortened, rewelded, then balanced. Any driveshaft should be able to handle that. Hope this helps a little.

No longer need, thanks.

Seriously? If its that simple Ill just pull the 73 assembly from the junk yard and get to drilling and welding. Would you grab the booster if it were you? I mean should I trust a 30+ year old booster??

I appreciate that info. Guess I'll keep on searching.

I need a pedal assembly for a 72 240z. I have an auto and am swapping to a stick. 73 and up will not work as they use a larger brake booster so the studs have a different stud width.

There are a couple of 73 240's (or maybe they are 260's but anyway) at the wrecking yard and I noticed that one has the dash out already. I need to convert my 72 240 to a manual and need a pedal assembly. I noticed the 73 had an extra mounting bolt on the main bracket and 2 less bolt holes where the steering column would bolt on. My question is can I "make" it work or do I have to have an early pedal assembly. Yes I searched, no I didnt find the answer. Thanks in advance, Chris.

Ok just got back, today was just for recon. I found a 240SX with a complete hub to hub rear suspension. After looking at it I'd love to just make a couple attachment points for the whole rear cradle and just bolt it in per say although we know it would be a lot more complicated than that. It did have a finned diff cover but I didnt get down and get any numbers off it. There were 3 Q45's that had 6 bolt cv's and finned diff covers years ranged all in the early 90's and all had 160,000 miles plus. All had v8's as well. There were a couple 260's and a couple of 280's all with rear suspensions. Left today with a hatch with glass for 36 bucks woo hoo. My hatch was full of bondo and the neighbors kid shot out the back glass with a bb gun.

I'd love to say I race the car but when it comes down to it, its just going to be a fun street car. I just hate the thought of spinning one wheel and thats why I want the LSD. But who knows if I get enough people on here telling me Im really not going to need it on the street, well I guess I could go without it then. In the future I would like to autocross it but who knows if that will ever happen.

OK I know I'm beating a dead horse here but Ive got a question. There is a 77 280z at the local junk yard as well as some early 90's Q45's. I'm planning on running a 300hp v8 and want a strong diff with some sort of LSD. I know the 280 has the long nose R200 without LSD since it's an NA car. I know the Q45 has the short nose R200 with LSD. I know to get the four inner cv's from the Q45 if I go that route. My question is which is worth the time pulling from the car, the R200 out of the Z that will supposedly bolt in (but I'll still have to add an LSD to) or the R200 out of the Q with it factory LSD, bigger splines etc. but expensive aftermarket axles and adapter flanges? Plus its short nose so is it bolt in or fab in? Please help me out just need a straight forward answer not a bunch of people asking why didnt you use the search function. There are 5 or 6 stickies on this subject but after reading all of them, one can find himself more confused then when he started.

Guys I dont think we really need to discuss it any further. Im going with the small block ford since I know without a doubt it will give me what I want. I wasnt trying to ruffle any feathers on the 24 vs 28 I was just trying to figured out why one is done and the other not so much. I used the search function but even if you put in L24 tons of L28 topics come up. I have three kids and a wife so I cant read 300+ pages. I figure I can just ask one of you gentlemen and get a good answer. Search functions are great on any car forum you go on but when it comes down to it, sometimes you cant narrow the topic down enough. Thanks for the info.

Video is awesome, thanks. Sounds wicked. As far as 16% more power, thats the only difference? Couldnt you just bore the engine a bit to gain a little displacement? The only point Im trying to make is that I have an L24 sitting in the garage that I know bolts in and keeps thing simples but if the engine has no aftermarket support (compared to the L28) or its going to require tons of mods that are extremely expensive then yeah I might as well just go with all the upgrading the v8 will require. So lets also say the L24 and L28 can both make 400+ hp then since I only looking 300hp I guess Im good?

Well I guess I should ask this. Whats makes the L24 so undesirable to build as a power motor. I mean I was reading a few posts after I searched just the phrase L24 on here and read a few threads where guys are literally throwing their L24 blocks away to scrap yards. They only kept the rods since they can be sold to people doing the stroker motor. I mean is the motor just so much different than the L28? What gives? I have yet to read a particular reason why the L24 just isnt any good for performance. I guess I should give you my definition of performance. An engine that can be either turbo'd and make 300hp or run high compression pistons and make similar power. I could go on and on but I just need a straight answer.

Well thanks for helping me out guys. Even though I really like the six it just seems I have the wrong one. I kind of feel if Im going to buy another engine altogether, I might as well buy something Im a little more familiar with, which is more so domestic engines than import engines. Guess I need to donate so I can list some parts in the classified section of this site. Thanks again.

300hp is right where I want to be.

Honestly I read it in one of the v8 forums on this website. I have been trolling the v8 forums for about a month now so I couldnt tell you where I read it exactly but it was for sure on this very site. But anyway, since you say its less than accurate lets assume I go with the six. My engine is an L24 with the original head. Most everything I read about is either the L28 or the stroker kits, so does this mean the L24 is less popular as a power making platform? I guess in short I dont want to have to change the head and crank plus buy a complete rebuild kit, then track down all the required efi/turbo parts and end up spending 3 times as much as a stock v8 that I could have picked up off Craigslist that puts out similar power. Of course I know with the v8 Ill have to upgrade the whole rear suspension so thats an added cost but Im sure you understand what Im getting at. Oh and by the way Im not factoring in a trans as a decideing factor since my car is an auto and we both know that just doesnt belong in a sports car.

Ok its my first post and Im a total newbie but here goes. I just picked up a 72 240z. It has been sitting in a barn for the last nine years with the engine out of it. The guy pulled the engine and said he lost interest. I bought the car with the intention of putting a small block ford in it. However I do like the thought of keeping the 6 mainly for the sound and keeping it "pure breed". The engine is in pieces and I keep reading how they just dont hold up for the long haul. So what do you guys think? I just want to end up with a pretty serious, uncomfortable, rough riding, loud, neighbors hate me, fun car.