LeeMS

Glad you're not hurt! One good lesson learned AWAYS stand on the side of a vehicle when working on a running or possibly running engine. Also good to have a fire extinguisher and a friend standing by, Now about body work......

There is no ground for the coil. Ground is provided through the dist. the block and the engine ground strap. The negative side of the coil only go to the dist.

Way to go Dale! You know I've been watching your progress with interest as I'm about three months be hide you. Nice job. Can't wait to hear mine roar. Good to see us old guys still can get her done. Congratulations!! Lee

your intake looks great, nice smooth bends, will necking down from the 3.5 in maf to the 3in pipe restrict air flow? why not leave the entire intake pipe at 3.5? jtr has plastic pipe pieces in the injection book. i have the black cast right angle piece from e-bay, ready to get the rest of the parts. advice? is that your fuel pressure gauge mounted on the fire wall? Lee

Ford/autolite had a simular inline four venturi carburetor in the 1960s. Aways thought it too looked great. The grant unit has a bit better enginering.Lee

jtr seventh edtion shows the plate with the flat top for the pass side, the angled one for the drvers side. looks like your three bolts for the orignal motor mounts are upside down on the pass side. the three through holes should line up to these orignal bolt holes, two top and one on the bottom. mine is still on the eng stand hope mine is correct,Lee

Correct, FUEL is meterd by turning in the mixture screws. A blown power valve will allow fuel to enter through the enrichment circuit thus the meter screw will have little effect. With two carbs and eight idle circuits (the rears are fixed and are used to consume rear bowl fuel if you never get into the secondaries thus keeping fresh fuel in the bowl) you may not get much idke variation when turning them in or out. An infared machine would be helpful. Lee

So smooth.. The cleanest detailed engine compartment in a Z I've seen. Looks like it was made for the V8. Details like the power brake booster vacuum line, the lack of wires and relays all very nice. Exterior fit and finish looks perfect! Just lets me see how far I still have to go! Thanks for the inspiration. Your old wheels look like ATS german made, one of my all time best looking wheel. Got any more plans for project?? Lee

To remove the ring from the back of the pump I drilled a 1/8 in hole above the ring close to the gap deep enough to get a pick in and behind the ring. The back of the pump is spring loaded, push it down and use a pick to wedge the ring out of the grove. Remove all the pump parts, remove the little vains, reinstall all the parts back in order. I also removed the pressure valve and spring out of the lower fitting, added some oil and epoxied the holes. Lee

Nealio240z, recheck all your basics, check for wide open throttle, check choke operation, secondaries on a Q-jet have a lock out and will not open until the choke is all the way open. An engine will rev on the primaries only with no load. You should be able to hear the secondaries on a Q-jet open they make big noise. With the eng NOT running hold the choke wide open, crack the throttle to let the fast idle cam drop[this should deacivate the secondary lock out] then give it wide open throttle, open the secondary air gate and look down the throttle bores, the throttle blades should be vertical on the primary and almost vertical on the secondary. Try these basic checks first. Lee

An easy way to check Q-jet metering rods..with the engine not running gently stick a pocket screwdriver down the bowl vent [the tube that sticks up center of the car just behind the primary choke housing just ahead of the air cleaner stud] holding the screw driver sideways angle blade toward the front of the hole you should feel a spring action when pushing down. Movement will be about 1/4 inch. You then can do the same with the engine running. Leave the screw driver in the location and quickly rev the engine by hand, the little screw driver should jump when the rods raise out of the primary jets. The spring under the rods overides vacuum.A quick and easy way to check primary rod function. Lee

Nice find Brad! Good to see another V8 Z in the Puget Sound area. Were you able to get on it? How did if feel at speed? I like the tire look filling the wheel wells. You might look into a front spoiler for the lower valance, cheaper than original steel I think and easy to install. Price sounds right, I have more than that in mine and not runing yet! Have you been able to figure what kit was used or was it all fabricated from scratch? More details.This site has all the info and help you'll need. Lee

With the engine and transmission out of the doner car,95 firebird lt1 t56, time for and new clutch. The engine will have stock internals, anybody have recommendations on after market clutch systems like a Spec stage one, Zoom etc? Looks like prices range from $240 to $440. Any one had bad experiance with aftermaket units? Would there be a huge advantage with a light weight aluminum flywheel? Looking the best bag for the buck. Lee

I got it for the tow bill from the impound yard after a friend totaled it and walked away. LT1 T56 only way to go is complete car with the harness and all. After I got the 95 firebird and the rust free 76 280z for $1500 I found this site, does look like I got real lucky. Going the JTR route, will be a winter project. This site has all the information you'll need. Oh yes plan on double the budget, things add up quick! Lee

Engine is out! We ended up using a sawzall to take out the radiator support, and took the engine and tranny out straight through the front with the balancer. It was a pretty straightforward removal with nothing in the front to get in the way. Here is a pic of the motor

Ok here goes,being a carburetor rebuilder and set up tech for 23 years at the same shop I have to throw in my two cents. Cfm will change all sorts of power bands. I Built a 66 muststang fastback approx 2800 lbs. 289 cid,some very nice ported and poished gt40 valved heads, tri-y headers, top loader 4 speed trans, ran 9in rear end with 411 and 370 gear ratios. Eng dynoed 330 ph at 7000 rpm with a holley 750 mech sec anular discharge carb. Working at a carb shop afforded me lots of opions, ran a 450 cfm vac sec.600 and 650 mech sec, 715 vac sec,the 750 and webers. the smaller the cfm the quicker the responce, the webers made lots of noise nice top end, the dyno carb was the worst on the steet. Ran the 650 the most , the best of both worlds, good throttle responce and great mid range torque. I liked the controll you have with mech sec. So depending on your rpm limits 600 cfm mech sec to 6000 rpm, 650 cfm mech sec to 7000 rpm. To sum up, don't over carb or over cam for the steet. So much for carbs I'm well into the 1990s with my first lt1 FI now!! Lee

Deja, sounds like you're close for timing. Now you can tune by ear, that is with the eng. up to operating temp. go out and lug the engine, high gear up a hill. Advance the timing until you hear eng. ping, a marbles in a tin can rattle then back the timing off 2 degrees or so. Looks like you're running a single-plane intake manifold,this the carb the cam and exhaust all factor in timing. After market advace weights have a cad plating shine, stock have a darker more finished look. Hope this helps you get the most out your engine. Lee

Big thanks for the quick reply Byran and Grumpy. Ready for extracation. Will let you how it goes. Lee

Ok guys need some advise. I have a 95 pont firebird with front end damage, radiator and support removed, eng runs and ready to remove for a little freshen up, timing chain and water pump then into my 76 280. Its a lt1 t56. The manuals say I have to lower the front suspention to remove. Has anyone removed by normal method, pulling out of the eng bay with an eng hoist? Keep in mind there is nothing in front of the engine. Can the engine and trans be pulled as one unit? I know some one on this great sight has tried. Thanks for all the help..

Spark plugs with split or fancy shaped ground straps are gimmics! The E3 is made to look like the spark is going to spark out the hole, it is not! Spark will jump from the sharpest edge of the electrode to the closest ground. I think the best plug is a new plug, the sharpest angle. Go with a recomended, reasonably priced plug.

First off i've been lurking for about a year now, in that time have aquired a '95 pont. trans am lt1 t56 totalled car,a '76 280z, JTR mounts, radiator and books, sanderson D port coated headers thanks to all your group advise. Installed the trans am seats, modified the console with the trans am armrest and made a front grill. We'll be removing engs in the next few weeks. My question for now is has anyone come up with an mid or low mount for the lt1 alt bracket?I've seen the power steering gut method and would like something more simple if poss. Undecided about sending the harness out or doing it ourselves. This site has been AWESOME,could not have gotten this far without searching the board for the last 11 months. Here is a pic of my car: